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[05Rider]

Ride-Sta8 or True Track??  Which one works the best ??  I have heard that the True Track drags on the bottom of the frames on both the 2004 FLHTCSE & 2005 FLHTCSE2!! 
  I checked the Ride-Sta8 web site and they showed pictures of the True Track with scrapes on both sides of the under carriage where the True Tracks hang below the bike's frame.  True Track also enclose the oil pan's transmission.  True Track also wants you to buy a system called the Trackula which retails for $799.00.  Which includes the True Track & the Trackula.  If you purchased these separately they are True Track for $398.00 Trackula/Update for $420.00 for a total of $818.00. 
  Ride-Str8 retails for $440.00.  I was also considering going with the Sta-Bo ll swingarm bushing stabilizer which retail for $102.03.  Any info would be helpful !!

Thanks,

Ride Safe 

[Twolanerider]

Ride-Sta8 or True Track??  Which one works the best ??  I have heard that the True Track drags on the bottom of the frames on both the 2004 FLHTCSE & 2005 FLHTCSE2!! 
  I checked the Ride-Sta8 web site and they showed pictures of the True Track with scrapes on both sides of the under carriage where the True Tracks hang below the bike's frame.  True Track also enclose the oil pan's transmission.  True Track also wants you to buy a system called the Trackula which retails for $799.00.  Which includes the True Track & the Trackula.  If you purchased these separately they are True Track for $398.00 Trackula/Update for $420.00 for a total of $818.00. 
  Ride-Str8 retails for $440.00.  I was also considering going with the Sta-Bo ll swingarm bushing stabilizer which retail for $102.03.  Any info would be helpful !!

Thanks,

Ride Safe 

Many here using either Mark.  There really has never been a concensus choice for "better."  Small pros and cons each way.  At the end of the day they do much the same job in much the same way. 

[Boatman]

Myself and several others have the $398.oo True Track.  Just about as many have the RideStr8.  They both do the same thing, just do it a little differently.  Can't go wrong with either. 
My oil temperature went up no measureable amount with the TT and scraping/jacking is not an issue.

Puzzled sells the Sta-bo for $100 shipped.  I installed the Stabos after the TT and had a buzzing thru the floor boards so I removed them.  2Lane has them with his Ridestr8 and stills has them with no added vibration.

[JCZ]

I think it depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

I don't have either and I'm fine.  Jim rode my bike not long ago.....being a mechanic that does a majority of business on CVOs,  he's rode a lot of SEEGs and other bikes and tells me my bike rides like it's on a rail.  I tend to agree and have just never saw the need for that expense.

Having said that, I have owned another bagger that had a little of the high speed wobble that I would have put one or the other on.

It really sucks that HD can't get that one right.

[hd-dude]

An important note on this is that the wobble on these bikes is DIRECTLY related to vehicle alignment. There are other factors as well such as tire condition, air pressure, shocks, roads etc, etc....

My own bike has had the wobble since new, The ride str8, progressive 440's and proper air has helped but I still get some in the sweeping freeway turns.

I have done many crash repairs and have had the frames and drivetrain sent to "The Frame Man" for alignment and staightening. In all cases these bikes have been reported by the owners to handle better than they ever did when new. Even with stock suspensions.

To align the frame and drive train on the FL chassis it takes a $600+ tool and a few hours of labor. These bikes are rushed throught an assembly line and I doubt that they are that closley aligned. This explains why some bikes have it a little, some a lot, and others ride on a rail.

[SBB]

An important note on this is that the wobble on these bikes is DIRECTLY related to vehicle alignment. There are other factors as well such as tire condition, air pressure, shocks, roads etc, etc....

My own bike has had the wobble since new, The ride str8, progressive 440's and proper air has helped but I still get some in the sweeping freeway turns.

I have done many crash repairs and have had the frames and drivetrain sent to "The Frame Man" for alignment and staightening. In all cases these bikes have been reported by the owners to handle better than they ever did when new. Even with stock suspensions.

To align the frame and drive train on the FL chassis it takes a $600+ tool and a few hours of labor. These bikes are rushed throught an assembly line and I doubt that they are that closley aligned. This explains why some bikes have it a little, some a lot, and others ride on a rail.

So Jim, if I'm reading you right then maybe an alignment would be the best money spent first.
Do that and see how it is and go from there.

So how many here have had their bike aligned?
A real paid for alignment? Not just Billy Jo Stick and his Harley box of alignment tools that he used in your driveway.
Remember those tools, a string, a fairly straight 2X4, a flashlight and some duct tape.

        

[hd-dude]

Check the obvious first. (tires, air pressure, fasll away, etc) Before paying a shop to do the alignment I would ask the service department if they have the tool. It is a block that bolts into the swingarm pivots. The alignment procedure is very well outlined in the service manual. I called two of the local dealerships here and only one had the tool . Most indies don't.

I have the tools now, I will be checking the alignment on my on soon to see where I am on my own bike.

[Talon]

Check the obvious first. (tires, air pressure, fasll away, etc) Before paying a shop to do the alignment I would ask the service department if they have the tool. It is a block that bolts into the swingarm pivots. The alignment procedure is very well outlined in the service manual. I called two of the local dealerships here and only one had the tool . Most indies don't.

I have the tools now, I will be checking the alignment on my on soon to see where I am on my own bike.

Jim, if you could, can you post your findings and maybe a pic of the tool attached to your bike? I get the wondering in long sweeping high speed turns, it's a pain!

    Craig

[Keats]

I do not know about the rest of you out there, but wheel wobble or the worse tank slap at 80 -90 miles an hour is highly undesirable in the most

discriminating of terms. 

So the question I have to members is wheel wobble eliminated with ridestr8?  truetrack?  or total alignment?    I am in for whatever definitely works

[Talon]

I do not know about the rest of you out there, but wheel wobble or the worse tank slap at 80 -90 miles an hour is highly undesirable in the most

discriminating of terms. 

So the question I have to members is wheel wobble eliminated with ridestr8?  truetrack?  or total alignment?    I am in for whatever definitely works

Just my take on the problem and the stabilizer units. These devices are meant to help with alignment/cabmer of the rear swingarm when making a turn. Because the swingarm is rubber mounted, when side force caused by turns is applied to the tire/wheel, is caused the swingarm, wheel/tire assembly to flex in relation to the rest of the bike, changing the camber, causing the bike to weave side to side as it changed. There are also bushings that can be installed in the swingarm pivot area to help with this problem, several members have these, and Puzzled sells one style, they could talk to how well these work.
I can only speak from my experience, but there's no wobble, and don't think these devices would help with any straight line problems. If you experiencing a wobble, or any straight line riding problems I'd check other thing before buying a stabilizer. I'd check tires, air pressure, wheel and frame alignment, and steering head, just to name a few. Again, just my two cents.

 

[Chief]

Just my take on the problem and the stabilizer units. These devices are meant to help with alignment/cabmer of the rear swingarm when making a turn. Because the swingarm is rubber mounted, when side force caused by turns is applied to the tire/wheel, is caused the swingarm, wheel/tire assembly to flex in relation to the rest of the bike, changing the camber, causing the bike to weave side to side as it changed. There are also bushings that can be installed in the swingarm pivot area to help with this problem, several members have these, and Puzzled sells one style, they could talk to how well these work.
I can only speak from my experience, but there's no wobble, and don't think these devices would help with any straight line problems. If you experiencing a wobble, or any straight line riding problems I'd check other thing before buying a stabilizer. I'd check tires, air pressure, wheel and frame alignment, and steering head, just to name a few. Again, just my two cents.

 

Actually, you're a bit off the mark, but it isn't your fault. All of these devices attach between the transmission and the frame, not the swingarm. They don't touch the swingarm at all and have no bearing on how the swingarm moves in relation to the transmission. These devices provide a lateral rigidity to the transmission only, preventing the transmission from moving side to side when lateral forces are applied to the rear wheel. The swingarm pushes sideways and these devices prevent the transmission from moving when pushed on.

These devices do nothing to reduce flex, twist, deflection or anything else related to the swingarm movement. What they do is provide a more rigid mount to hook the swingarm to.

I hope this helps. 

[Talon]

Actually, you're a bit off the mark, but it isn't your fault. All of these devices attach between the transmission and the frame, not the swingarm. They don't touch the swingarm at all and have no bearing on how the swingarm moves in relation to the transmission. These devices provide a lateral rigidity to the transmission only, preventing the transmission from moving side to side when lateral forces are applied to the rear wheel. The swingarm pushes sideways and these devices prevent the transmission from moving when pushed on.

These devices do nothing to reduce flex, twist, deflection or anything else related to the swingarm movement. What they do is provide a more rigid mount to hook the swingarm to.

I hope this helps. 

Chief I agree, I may have not explained my self well here! I didn't want to imply that it connects to the swingarm. By stopping the movement in the transmission, it in turn reduces the movement/flex in the swing arm which attaches to the transmission. I'm going for the True-Track and the bushings, I think you need to address both to get this fixed, I'll do the True-Track first, then the bushings to see if this it true.

[miker]

These devices aid in reducing rear steer, not much else.  I felt more than usual on my serk , the 1st lowered bike I have owned.
I installed a ride srt8 and it has reduced the rear steer but increased vibration.  I'll br the traxxion when I can to improved the lame front end perfromance. No free lunch.

Miker   

[hd-dude]

Jim, if you could, can you post your findings and maybe a pic of the tool attached to your bike? I get the wondering in long sweeping high speed turns, it's a pain!

    Craig

Craig;
Will do.

[hd-dude]

I do not know about the rest of you out there, but wheel wobble or the worse tank slap at 80 -90 miles an hour is highly undesirable in the most

discriminating of terms. 

So the question I have to members is wheel wobble eliminated with ridestr8?  truetrack?  or total alignment?    I am in for whatever definitely works

As others have stated already there are several items that play a role in the wobble. Rear steer is a different animal although is related. The bolt on units do help with rear steer.