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[Midnight Rider]

AJ...maybe they'll give you a new motor!  Jerry got a new motor, if I remember correctly, after the second "fix".  What you've got pictures of is chit at this point.

[Twolanerider]

You got to quit flogging that mill AJ.

[110tHunDer]

You got to quit flogging that mill AJ.

Yeah, 19,200 miles is ridiculous!

[porthole]

A very good point was made here that if the valves and springs have been hitting the rocker boxes for as long as they have, there is sure to be premature wear on those parts.

Maybe that is where all the oil came from that is on the head and valves 
Bad guides will dump oil.

[hdbrad03]

The wife's bike looked this way and the valve stem seal had came loose from valve guide. This turned it into an oil pump and filled cylinder with oil. HD changed both cylinders, pistons and rings. Plus did a valve job on both heads.

[grc]

Yeah, 19,200 miles is ridiculous!

In some states 19k miles is the useful life of a motorcycle, at least for lemon law issues.  Obviously this engine is used up and needs to be replaced! 

Stick to your guns AJ, at the very least H-D should replace the complete top end after this many repairs.  And you might want to start looking for a better dealership to do your work.  Only the most lazy, incompetent fools would just slap a new gasket on that mess and call it a repair.

Jerry

[JDOFLHRIDER]

The wife's bike looked this way and the valve stem seal had came loose from valve guide. This turned it into an oil pump and filled cylinder with oil. HD cahnged both cylinders, pistons and rings. Plus did a valve job on both heads.

     The motor man at my dealer said that most of the new heads with 7mm valves do that and he usually puts older style of parts back in those heads.He said that the 110 heads off of mine have the better old style valves,but have soft seats that next time apart will need replaced.

[Twolanerider]

     The motor man at my dealer said that most of the new heads with 7mm valves do that and he usually puts older style of parts back in those heads.He said that the 110 heads off of mine have the better old style valves,but have soft seats that next time apart will need replaced.

That's optimisitic....

[Fired00d]

That's optimisitic....

Or maybe "honesty".

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[JDOFLHRIDER]

Well guy the works on my motor at the dealership has the won a few adhra pro-stock championships , was schooled by a oldtimer ,and is very good(been doing for 20yrs). When my new jugs got to dealership ,he won't install till checked with tourqe plates and had .005 pistons ordered to because harley jugs arn't straight enough for him.When he suggests something i will let him do it,and he's always been right on. He even took the time to show me difference in our heads and stock 7mm ones. I would hate to not trust the guy working on my bike. ride safe JDO

[porthole]

AJ, Since you asked: 

I would not repeat not spray warm / hot or any other water into my intake.   (this is an old racing trick to remove carbon from your pistons and chamber not the gum you have in your chambers)   So to be clear I would not advocate doing this, but for those that want to know what you do is rev the engine after it is hot to say about 5000 rpm and give it a quick blast this will remove the carbon build up on the top of the pistons / chamber.) 

This is not something that most of the people here /anywhere should be considering doing. 

This was something we did back in the late 70's - early 80's when the gasoline compositions kept changing and causing driveability problems.

Was never a warranty code, but the warranty - factory reps would authorize it and give us a general code to use.

I don't see how it will work on a bike anyway.

Our procedure was to hold the throttle open far enough to run the engine between 4-5000 rpm, then "pour" water down the intake, as the engine slows down you open the throttle and keep pouring water almost to the point of having the water stall the engine at WOT.

We would typically run at least a gallon through the enine this way.

[porthole]

     The motor man at my dealer said that most of the new heads with 7mm valves do that and he usually puts older style of parts back in those heads.He said that the 110 heads off of mine have the better old style valves,but have soft seats that next time apart will need replaced.

This is amazing in this day and age.

[porthole]

I would hate to not trust the guy working on my bike.

The most important quality in the tech working on your bike. Even if he isn't that good, you need to be satisfied.

[Chief]

This was something we did back in the late 70's - early 80's when the gasoline compositions kept changing and causing driveability problems.

Was never a warranty code, but the warranty - factory reps would authorize it and give us a general code to use.

I don't see how it will work on a bike anyway.

Our procedure was to hold the throttle open far enough to run the engine between 4-5000 rpm, then "pour" water down the intake, as the engine slows down you open the throttle and keep pouring water almost to the point of having the water stall the engine at WOT.

We would typically run at least a gallon through the enine this way.

Duane,

I'm glad you mentioned that. This is an old timers trick and it is very effective. It's not warm water or hot water or soapy water, just water.

Get the engine to operating temperature like after a nice ride. Remove the air cleaner and anything else blocking your access to the throttle plate. Get a hand pump sprayer and fill it to the top with tap water. Start the bike and hold the revs to about 2,500. START SPRAYING!!!! As the rpm drops, open more throttle to keep it around 2,500. You may want to have a second person on the throttle to keep it at 2,500 rpm. Pump like heck, as fast and as hard as you can. Spray the water right at the intake, keeping the revs about 2,500, until the bottle is empty. When the water is gone, bolt everything back up and go for a ride.

And yes, I am serious. 

[grc]

Duane,

I'm glad you mentioned that. This is an old timers trick and it is very effective. It's not warm water or hot water or soapy water, just water.

Get the engine to operating temperature like after a nice ride. Remove the air cleaner and anything else blocking your access to the throttle plate. Get a hand pump sprayer and fill it to the top with tap water. Start the bike and hold the revs to about 2,500. START SPRAYING!!!! As the rpm drops, open more throttle to keep it around 2,500. You may want to have a second person on the throttle to keep it at 2,500 rpm. Pump like heck, as fast and as hard as you can. Spray the water right at the intake, keeping the revs about 2,500, until the bottle is empty. When the water is gone, bolt everything back up and go for a ride.

And yes, I am serious. 

Yup, it will in fact work.  The thermal shock created when the water vapor hits the hot piston, valve, and head loosens the carbon.  You just have to be careful to make sure it's water vapor and not a solid slug of liquid.  This method has been used for more years than I've been alive, but only when you want to decarbonize without dismantling the engine.  It makes no sense at all to put a dismantled engine back together with heavy deposits and then do the water treatment.  That's just stupidity and lazyness on the part of the so-called tech.

Jerry