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[ace07fxdl]

In the FLHRSE4 Service Manual Supplement to the 2008 Touring Service Manual, the Regular Service Interval Table does NOT have a Clutch Adjustment procedure to do at regular intervals like the regular Service manual does have listed for non-hydraulic clutches. There is a check,adjust,lubricate procedure for the clutch and brake controls but no clutch itself adjustment is listed. I realize that the FLHRSE4 has a hydraulic clutch but isn't there any adjustment procedure needed on a regular basis with the hydraulic clutch?

[Hoist!]

In the FLHRSE4 Service Manual Supplement to the 2008 Touring Service Manual, the Regular Service Interval Table does NOT have a Clutch Adjustment procedure to do at regular intervals like the regular Service manual does have listed for non-hydraulic clutches. There is a check,adjust,lubricate procedure for the clutch and brake controls but no clutch itself adjustment is listed. I realize that the FLHRSE4 has a hydraulic clutch but isn't there any adjustment procedure needed on a regular basis with the hydraulic clutch?

Nope!

Hoist!

[naitram]

make sure you have fluid in the reservoir and go ride

[ace07fxdl]

make sure you have fluid in the reservoir and go ride

Thats what I was hoping....Nice!

[Gecko]

Wish there was an adjustment, mine is nearly impossible for hitting neutral.  Feels like the lever is dragging then over-shoots from 1st to 2nd or vice-versa.  Okay when it's not running.  Reving up a bit as you try it doesn't do it either.  Otherwise the hydro clutch is great.

[DESERTBEAR54]

The only thing to have checked and Harley should check on there sevice intervals is any possible air in the closed system and that the flluid level is seviced properly. I know that is allot to ask but that is what I ask them to look for and make sure of.

[Fired00d]

Wish there was an adjustment, mine is nearly impossible for hitting neutral.  Feels like the lever is dragging then over-shoots from 1st to 2nd or vice-versa.  Okay when it's not running.  Reving up a bit as you try it doesn't do it either.  Otherwise the hydro clutch is great.

Are you still running the Syn3?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[RBFB]

I have found using the heel shifter to get into neutral works great. I also switched oil at 50 miles, although it helped some, it always was hard to get into neutral. I bought a 2" over heel shifter, now It goes in easily every time.

[grc]

Wish there was an adjustment, mine is nearly impossible for hitting neutral.  Feels like the lever is dragging then over-shoots from 1st to 2nd or vice-versa.  Okay when it's not running.  Reving up a bit as you try it doesn't do it either.  Otherwise the hydro clutch is great.

Most likely clutch drag.  Mine was the same way until I bled all the air out of the system, and wore the high spots off the clutch plates.  Sometimes bleeding just at the actuator bleed valve isn't enough, I had to also bleed mine at the banjo fitting to the master cylinder.

Jerry

[Gecko]

Are you still running the Syn3?

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

No, switched to Mobil 1 V-twin in all three holes at the first change.  Didn't notice any difference in getting neutral at the time. 

[skiindean]

How do you bleed the hydraulic clutch to get the air out. My clutch used to grab quicker, almost as soon as I started to release...now it's closer to 1/3 to halfway out and I did like it better when it grabbed almost immediatly. Has it just worn in...15 K, 1 year of riding. Will bleeding bring it back to factory feel ?
Dean

[ace07fxdl]

From the Supplemental Manual, pg 1-6

To bleed the clutch master cylinder:

1) bike upright
2)add DOT 4 brake fluid to fill mark
3)while holding resovoir cover in place:

a-Pump clutch hand lever 5 times
b-hold clutch hand lever against handlebar
c-hold shop towel under fitting and loosen master cylinder banjo bolt
d-watch banjo fitting for air bubbles
e-retighten banjo fitting
f-release hand lever

4) fill resoivoir to fill level and repeat the previous step three times or more until only a steady flow of clutch fluid escapes banjo fitting and fluid level in resovoir is at fill level with bike upright

Bleed fluid line and actuator:

1) While holding resovoir cover in place

a-Pump clutch hand lever 5 times
b-hold clutch hand lever against the handlebar
c-run hose from bleeder valve to suitable container
d-loosen actuateor bleeder valve
e-watch bleeder vlave for air bubbles
f-tighten bleeder valve
g-release clutch hand lever

Note: clutch fluid volume in resovoir actually increases with clutch wear. DO NOT overfill clutch resovoir.

2) Fill resoivoir to fill level and repeat the previous step three times or more until only a steady flow of clutch fluid escapes bleeder valve and fluid level in resovoir is at fill level with bike upright.

Return bike to service

1-Test pressure by squeezing clutch hand lever
2-tighten fasteners as follows:
Clutch master cylinder banjo bolt to 12.5-14.5 ft-lbs
Clutch line flare nut to 72-120 in-lbs
Actuator bleeder valve to 12-15 in-lbs
resovoir cover screws to 6-8 in-lbs
3-remove hose from bleeder valve and replace protective cover
test ride
incorrect pressure or fluid level can cause dragging clutch or hard shifting

[SERK3]

Save the clutch, Float the gears!!!!!

[planenut]

now thats funny

Save the clutch, Float the gears!!!!!