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Author Topic: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment  (Read 8152 times)

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roadrunner

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Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« on: September 03, 2008, 10:22:17 AM »

Hello all, I had some work done back in March and dealer is telling me to have the Zippers Pro-Taper Pushrods adjusted every 5K miles.  I wondered how difficult this is to do.  Dealer kept the instructions.  Anyone do their own?  Thanks!
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Twolanerider

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2008, 12:59:01 PM »

Hello all, I had some work done back in March and dealer is telling me to have the Zippers Pro-Taper Pushrods adjusted every 5K miles.  I wondered how difficult this is to do.  Dealer kept the instructions.  Anyone do their own?  Thanks!

Did the dealer explain why he wanted to create an extra labor charge every oil change?
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Unbalanced

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2008, 02:08:59 PM »

I might check the lock nut as a precaution, but readjusting them ... not heard that one before at 5k.  I would be more worried after they were initially installed. 

You can call Zippers and they will fax you the instructions if you want them.   I know they did this for Rhino to so he could use them exactly as they prescribe as he thought the dealer misadjusted them.

 :nixweiss:
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roadrunner

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2008, 03:11:34 PM »

Thanks!
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DCFIREMANN

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #4 on: September 04, 2008, 06:37:23 AM »

ROADRUNNER I can only guess what dealer told you that. I for one am calling BS on this. If done right in the begining there is no need to even check them. If they start to come loose you will hear it. I PROMISE!!!!!

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #5 on: September 04, 2008, 06:41:57 AM »

Like the others have stated, the pushrods don't need readjusted.
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hogasm

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #6 on: September 04, 2008, 09:11:04 AM »

Maybe the dealer has a problem with adjustable pushrods coming loose after they install them. The jam nut will come loose if not installed correctly.
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DCFIREMANN

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2008, 09:23:29 AM »

Maybe the dealer has a problem with adjustable pushrods coming loose after they install them. The jam nut will come loose if not installed correctly.

Maybe it is time to find a new dealer!!!!!! :orange: :orange: :orange: :orange:

Be Safe

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roadrunner

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #8 on: September 04, 2008, 01:08:28 PM »

Maybe it is time to find a new dealer!!!!!! :orange: :orange: :orange: :orange:

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THE DAWG

I'm starting to realize that I need to do my own maintenance!
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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #9 on: September 04, 2008, 01:10:58 PM »

I'm starting to realize that I need to do my own maintenance!

That's what most of us try to do.  You learn a lot about the bike also in the process.  The right tools and manuals make it bearable/doable.
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roadrunner

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2008, 01:21:36 PM »

Agree, and the fix my hog DVD's were worth the $$.
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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #11 on: January 04, 2009, 04:07:08 AM »

Don't know what made me think of this one.  Maybe a conversation about Zippers earlier.  Anyway...  Roadrunner, did you ever get an explanation from the shop as to why they suggested the readjustment?  Would have loved to hear the rationale.

Also just noticed the original question was never specifically answered.  Zippers gives an adjustment instruction that is more complicated than other manufacturers commonly use.  It's their way...

You're after .100 from zero lash (give or take just a bit).  The Zippers pushrods you mentioned have 32 threads per inch.  So if you find yourself needing to do them sometime your turning 18 or 19 flats to get within spec.  If I remember right that's the same TPI as S&S and the old style SE adjustables.
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DCFIREMANN

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2009, 06:42:46 AM »

Don't know what made me think of this one.  Maybe a conversation about Zippers earlier.  Anyway...  Roadrunner, did you ever get an explanation from the shop as to why they suggested the readjustment?  Would have loved to hear the rationale.

Also just noticed the original question was never specifically answered.  Zippers gives an adjustment instruction that is more complicated than other manufacturers commonly use.  It's their way...

You're after .100 from zero lash (give or take just a bit).  The Zippers pushrods you mentioned have 32 threads per inch.  So if you find yourself needing to do them sometime your turning 18 or 19 flats to get within spec.  If I remember right that's the same TPI as S&S and the old style SE adjustables.

Don you should also tell them the cam lobe needs to be turned to it's lowest point. Once there you take out all of the lash, then tighten the pushrod. When Don said 18 to 19 flats he means the flat area that the wrench adjusts the rotation of the pushrod.

Did I say this right????? Man it is just too early.

Be Safe

THE DAWG 
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REGGAB

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2009, 07:02:11 AM »

Don you should also tell them the cam lobe needs to be turned to it's lowest point. Once there you take out all of the lash, then tighten the pushrod. When Don said 18 to 19 flats he means the flat area that the wrench adjusts the rotation of the pushrod.

Did I say this right????? Man it is just too early.


Be Safe

THE DAWG 

Mike, does that mean 6 flats equals one complete turn (revolution) on the adjuster?  In other words, does 18-19 flats equal three turns-three turns plus one flat?  Further, if "flat" is used to describe one surface face on the adjuster, and assuming there are 6 flats on the adjuster, what point of reference is used.........or does it matter.........against which to count flats?

Thanks
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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2009, 08:42:02 AM »

I can't remember what the dealers reply was or if they needed adjustment, I'll have to check the service receipt. Here are their instructions for the pushrods. 

Not sure if it matters after having the engine disabled and resembled with new crank, gear cam and lifters if clearances would change after the inital adjustment.

Thanks!
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DCFIREMANN

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #15 on: January 04, 2009, 12:39:53 PM »

Mike, does that mean 6 flats equals one complete turn (revolution) on the adjuster?  In other words, does 18-19 flats equal three turns-three turns plus one flat?  Further, if "flat" is used to describe one surface face on the adjuster, and assuming there are 6 flats on the adjuster, what point of reference is used.........or does it matter.........against which to count flats?

Thanks

Yes it does, I knew what I wanted to say I just couldn't say it. So yes 18 flats is equal to 3 full turns.

Be Safe

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #16 on: January 04, 2009, 02:19:40 PM »

Mike, does that mean 6 flats equals one complete turn (revolution) on the adjuster?  In other words, does 18-19 flats equal three turns-three turns plus one flat?  Further, if "flat" is used to describe one surface face on the adjuster, and assuming there are 6 flats on the adjuster, what point of reference is used.........or does it matter.........against which to count flats?

Thanks

It's a hex nut.  So six sides or "flats" as they are commonly referenced when talking about pushrods.  The reference point is whatever you want it to be. 

For a reference point a little paint mark.  A scratch.  Some are manufactured with a divot.  Just something to start counting from.  The KISS principle comes in to play here.

From zero lash (with the lobe down) it becomes very basic.  The spec is .100 plus or minus the tolerance.  If one doens't have a spec sheet for his pushrods one could always set down and count the threads per inch.  So....  a couple minutes with the calculator....  and voila, pushrod specs for various thread counts:

For 24 TPI turn 14 flats for .0972"
For 28 TPI turn 17 flats for .1011"
For 32 TPI turn 19 flats for .0989"
For 36 TPI turn 22 flats for .1010"
For 40 TPI turn 24 flats for .1000"


Unless I hit the wrong button on the calculator...  :huepfenlol2:
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REGGAB

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #17 on: January 04, 2009, 05:30:42 PM »

Yes it does, I knew what I wanted to say I just couldn't say it. So yes 18 flats is equal to 3 full turns.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

Thanks, Mike.  Very much appreciate it!   :2vrolijk_21:
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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #18 on: January 06, 2009, 07:28:43 AM »

when you take it in to get rods adjusted, you ought to see if they'll rotate your cams..... :confused5:
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DCFIREMANN

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #19 on: January 06, 2009, 08:33:41 AM »

when you take it in to get rods adjusted, you ought to see if they'll rotate your cams..... :confused5:


I am not sure I know what you mean.

As far as rotating the cams to get to BDC that is easy. You jack up the rear of the bike, remove the spark plugs and the place the trannie in 5th gear. You can then rotate the motor by turning the rear wheel. It is easy I have seen it done many many times in my own garage!

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Re: Zippers adjustable pushrods adjustment
« Reply #20 on: January 06, 2009, 11:19:46 AM »

I am not sure I know what you mean.

As far as rotating the cams to get to BDC that is easy. You jack up the rear of the bike, remove the spark plugs and the place the trannie in 5th gear. You can then rotate the motor by turning the rear wheel. It is easy I have seen it done many many times in my own garage!

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THE DAWG

C'mon Mike.  You know that's not the specified method to turn the engine over for service.  You're supposed to remove both spark plugs (to make it easier to turn the engine over).  Then get that fitting that goes in a spark plug hole.  Thread it in one cylinder or the other with a length of 3/8" (non braided) hose on it.  Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the rear wheel is off the ground.  Pushrods out so the valves are closed.  Then put your lips on the hose and blow like hell. 
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