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[bbrown]

Great post.  Nice pics.  I left my OEM insulation in as well and it does tone down the noise.  It is nice being able to hear after a ride, but when you get on it the bike is loud.  People hear me coming. 

Anyone know how this would affect my Samson 4 stage system.  The baffles do not have any insulation now it is just a corrugated type baffle

[SixGun]

Greg, the automotive tape will not work because it's used for heat resistance around the pipes. As stated, the only reason I used the Ceramic blanket material is to keep it from melting...Even if you used the Kiln rope you would have to wrap it loosely or you'd defeat the purpose. Automotive tape is for a slightly different application, but hey, if you think it will work for you then try it...it's cheap as you stated.

After 5000 miles, the stock insulation starts to disintegrate if you upset it in the tube.

If you were to wrap automotive tape around the baffle it would be like having a straight pipe from the end of the header to the back of the muffler. It would absorb nothing and just be an extension of the header.

bbrown, Any insulation in your Samson baffle will help quiet it down and will not effect performance. You can buy muffler insulation at any metric bike shop. You can do the same process in the pictures above with your stock baffle.

My buddy and I just did it to a D&D Fat cat 2 into 1 system...toned it down significantly...

[Zipper104]

Finally got around to putting the Ceramic Blanket on the baffles. First is a picture of the stock baffle with insulation

So, I take it the 'stock' Fullsac baffles are wrapped??

Thanks.

Z

[DakotaZeb]

The Fullsac baffles are not wrapped.  That was the "stock" baffle that is pictured.  And the packing does not actually contact the baffle.  It is wrapped around the screen that keeps the packing away from the baffle.

[DakotaZeb]

SixGun,

What's with the packing tape?  "Industry Standard".  I'm repacking my stock muffs before I add the Fullsac baffles and have been wondering what tape to use.  I've read that masking tape is just fine as all you need it to do is to hold the packing in place while you insert it into the muffler.  I have some aluminaum tape and wonder if that would work okay??

Zeb

[Zipper104]

The packing tape is fine if you're just using it to hold the packing in place long enough to get the baffle in the muffler, but neither will hold up once in there. I figure aluminum tape or masking tape won't fare much better, but with the Fullsac baffles, the packing really has nowhere to go so maybe it doesn't need to stand up..
I've used 18 GA baling wire wound around the baffle packing material with some success. You can smell the packing tape 'dying' as the bike warms up on the first heat cycle after the install. In my experience the baffle material quality is of utmost importance. I've had 'crap' just breakdown and get blown right out. I like the idea of that ceramic blanket stuff Sixgun uses.

Z
 

SixGun,

What's with the packing tape?  "Industry Standard".  I'm repacking my stock muffs before I add the Fullsac baffles and have been wondering what tape to use.  I've read that masking tape is just fine as all you need it to do is to hold the packing in place while you insert it into the muffler.  I have some aluminaum tape and wonder if that would work okay??

Zeb

[Zipper104]

So...let me see if I've got this right.

The baffle design in the stock CVO muffler is the main reason the bike meets legal noise levels. (the insulation makes a big contribution but the Fullsac baffle with the stock insulation will be louder than stock. Right?

If I remove the stock baffle and the insulation survives staying in, can I expect the screen material to stay in as Jim Kerrs pics show? Or will it come out with the baffle?

What is the diameter of the stock baffle? That is, if I remove it, and the screen and insulation remains, will the Fullsac 1 3/4" baffle go in relatively tight?
If I were to go to a 2" Fullsac baffle would the insulation and screen now have to be removed in order to make it fit?

Am I correct to assume that Sixgun added the ceramic blanket material to replace his 'stock' muffler insulation because it was thrashed?

What I'm getting at is that I would prefer to keep the db level at idle around the mid-90s db if possible, and have the volume putting around town somewhat sane. I care little at volumes WOT or on the highway. I run a set of V&H Dresser Duals on a HQ 95" build and anything I put on will be louder than the same running on stock headpipes.

Can anyone weigh in on this?

Thanks.

Z

[HOGMIKE]

So...let me see if I've got this right.

The baffle design in the stock CVO muffler is the main reason the bike meets legal noise levels. (the insulation makes a big contribution but the Fullsac baffle with the stock insulation will be louder than stock. Right?

If I remove the stock baffle and the insulation survives staying in, can I expect the screen material to stay in as Jim Kerrs pics show? Or will it come out with the baffle?

What is the diameter of the stock baffle? That is, if I remove it, and the screen and insulation remains, will the Fullsac 1 3/4" baffle go in relatively tight?
If I were to go to a 2" Fullsac baffle would the insulation and screen now have to be removed in order to make it fit?

Am I correct to assume that Sixgun added the ceramic blanket material to replace his 'stock' muffler insulation because it was thrashed?

What I'm getting at is that I would prefer to keep the db level at idle around the mid-90s db if possible, and have the volume putting around town somewhat sane. I care little at volumes WOT or on the highway. I run a set of V&H Dresser Duals on a HQ 95" build and anything I put on will be louder than the same running on stock headpipes.

Can anyone weigh in on this?

Thanks.

Z

I think you will find the noise level will be to your liking if you remove the stock baffle/cat assembly (all one piece). Leave the existing screen and packing alone (it hugs the inner wall of the muffler shell) There is about a 1" gap between the screen and the baffle tube. The stock baffle has a "reverse flow" configuration. Check out some of the pics posted on here and you will get a better visual. Your 95" build will sound nice. Low rumble most of your riding, only getting a little more aggressive at WOT. I am very happy with my setup on a 117", going to do the same (only with 2" cores) on a 110".

[DakotaZeb]

So...let me see if I've got this right.

The baffle design in the stock CVO muffler is the main reason the bike meets legal noise levels. (the insulation makes a big contribution but the Fullsac baffle with the stock insulation will be louder than stock. Right?  Correct

If I remove the stock baffle and the insulation survives staying in, can I expect the screen material to stay in as Jim Kerrs pics show? Or will it come out with the baffle?  The screen and insulation will stay in place when you take the balffle out.  If the insulation (packing) looks okay leave it in.

What is the diameter of the stock baffle? That is, if I remove it, and the screen and insulation remains, will the Fullsac 1 3/4" baffle go in relatively tight?  The Fullsac baffle will go in very easy as the screen is 3 in. in diameter
If I were to go to a 2" Fullsac baffle would the insulation and screen now have to be removed in order to make it fit?  No.  Still plenty of room.

Am I correct to assume that Sixgun added the ceramic blanket material to replace his 'stock' muffler insulation because it was thrashed?  Yes.  My insulation/packing was also in tough shape on the right muff so I removed everything on both mufflers and replaced the insulation/packing.

What I'm getting at is that I would prefer to keep the db level at idle around the mid-90s db if possible, and have the volume putting around town somewhat sane. I care little at volumes WOT or on the highway. I run a set of V&H Dresser Duals on a HQ 95" build and anything I put on will be louder than the same running on stock headpipes.  I also have the V&H duals on my '06 SE Ultra 103" and you are right, the true duals make everything a little louder.

Can anyone weigh in on this?  You bet.  You just did!

[guppytrash]

I just finished with 1 3/4 fulsacs and it is perfect for what I wanted.  More performance, good exhaust note without a substantial volume increase.  I have the cat drilled and this is exactly what I was looking for.  Noise level is very subjective but to me they sound great and are barely louder than stock, in my opinion they are quieter than any aftermarket slip-on I have heard.  I have heard Cop bikes that are louder.
 
The install is exceptionally easy, ( follow Jims directions) and I used the original HD packing.   
 
It does have a little more volume when your on the gas hard but I can't imagine anyone having any trouble in even the most noise sensitive areas.     

[LarryB]

Ok, I finished my Baffle change yesterday morning. Took an hour and a half total. Very Easy to do. The insulation survived the removal of the stock baffles, but it did not survive my wanting of an exhaust note. So no insulation went back in. I saved it in case I want to....?The sound is great when I'm IN it, ran it up to 105 on I-65 good sound. Idle is much better. But, that darned Cat will have to go.
I will tell you my test for judging the torque, my neck is sore this morning. Don't need no stinkin dyno.

Jim K- what do you think about me doing the super sert myself?

[Jim Kerr]

Jim K- what do you think about me doing the super sert myself?

You can load the basemap that comes with the Super SERT software easily.  It will give you a marked improvement out of the box.  You just need the parts I've posted previously and a computer. 

[Zipper104]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I appreciate it.

Z

[LarryB]

thanks Jim, looks like a couple weeks before I do the Cats and SERT. I'll keep you posted on results. Neck is still a little sore this morning.

[SixGun]

Bump