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[Striker]

Just got my progressives in today, need to know if anyone knows the torque specs on bolts for shocks.  Also if anyone can post the pages from the shop manual on replacing the shocks (mine manual is back ordered), so I don't screw anything up.  I would sure appreciate the help. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[Twolanerider]

Striker this is probably one of those times when you're making it a bit more complicated than it needs to be.  Shocks are easy.  Most of the time you can even change them without a bike lift or jack.

Remove both saddlebags.  Remove the air lines.  Push in on the little red release tabs to release the lines.  After getting the lines out of the way go on to the shocks.

You'll see the upper and lower mounting bolts on each shock.  If memory serves correctly the lower mount is a bolt and the upper is a stud with a nut on it.  Release each end and remove the shock.  

Stretch out a new shock to reach the mount points.  Be sure washers are on both sides of the shock grommet.  Tighten up bolts and nuts.  Do it to the point that they feel about as tight as they were when you unbolted them.  It's not a measure so critical as to get hung up over torque settings.  Just make it tight.

Once the shock is reinstalled on the first side walk around the bike and do the same job to the other side.

[Fired00d]

Striker,
From what I've read in previous threads.... "Don't forget to release all the air in the shocks before disconnecting the air lines".

[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe

[110tHunDer]

Most of the time you can even change them without a bike lift or jack.

I can't recommend doing that based on my own experience.  The bike compressed quite a bit on the one shock and, as a result, it became a bit difficult to get a jack underneath to finish the job. [smiley=oops.gif]  Better to have the bike on a jack to start with and then raise or lower it as needed to install the new shocks.

[Striker]

Yeah I usually do level it with a jack first, and yeah, I usually make it more complicated than I need to.  
So now, for you that have 440's, where did you set the initial settings?  I am riding 2 up most of the time, total passenger weight approx. 320#.
Thanks again for the help. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[hd-dude]

Yeah I usually do level it with a jack first, and yeah, I usually make it more complicated than I need to.  
So now, for you that have 440's, where did you set the initial settings?  I am riding 2 up most of the time, total passenger weight approx. 320#.
Thanks again for the help. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

Which shocks did you get? Standard or Heavy Duty? I have the 12" Heavy Duty and set them about 4 turns when riding 2 up.

[Twolanerider]

The setting is a "feel" thing.  Kind of whatever the seat of your pants tells you feels right and the bike isn't bottoming out or jettisoning you off the seat because it's too stiff.  Just for a number to compare to, I've got the 12.5" heavy duties and ended up running at about  2 1/2 turns.  It's just a tiny bit stiff.  But that's my preference.

And whomever said it above was right.  I forgot to mention to bleed the air from the lines before cracking them open.  If not you'll spit hydraulic oil.  Also, if you've got a bike lift it's definitely better and easier to use it than not.  If your shocks are the same length as the stockers though you can get it done without it.  Might reguire a bit of cussing, pushing, lifting, or even a buddy.  But you can get there.  It's just not the easiest solution  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[110tHunDer]

I've got the 12" heavy duty's.  My total passenger weight riding two-up is in excess of 400 lbs. (I know, [smiley=shocked2.gif] ), but I have never had the shocks past 3 1/2 turns.  In trying to get rid of the clanking in the rear when riding solo, I recently tried backing them down to 1 1/2 turns which has helped considerably with the noise and resulted in a better ride, but still excellent cornering feel and ability.

[HUBBARD]

Yeah, 'er 'uh, Striker,
 Put mine on over at OTIS' garage.  We used my portable lift, and then put a floor jack under the rear tire.  Worked perfect.  I had the Lo-Profile Harley Shocks, which I think were 12".  I replaced them with the 11 1/2" HD Progressives.  I'm as happy as if I had good sense! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]  Handles better, rides better, looks better, hell, I think it even RUNS better! [smiley=rifle.gif]  No tru-trac need here! [smiley=no.gif]  Later--HUBBARD  

[Striker]

Just checked all your replies, thanks again, I am going out to the shop to put those on, and will let you know when the rain lets up how they ride.

[grc]

Just got my progressives in today, need to know if anyone knows the torque specs on bolts for shocks.  Also if anyone can post the pages from the shop manual on replacing the shocks (mine manual is back ordered), so I don't screw anything up.  I would sure appreciate the help. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

Upper:  33-35 ft-lb
Lower:  35-40 ft-lb

Use Blue Loctite

[Striker]

Got em on, really didn't take any time at all.  I will say that progressive doesn't give you alot of info on settings etc.  Another question for you that have em.  Mine are the HD 440's, 12".  
When people in here are saying they are going 2 or 2 1/2 turns, from what starting point? They come shipped in the softest setting, are you going 2  turns or what ever from there, or are you setting them to their stiffest setting and going what ever turns from there.

By the way, there was a several turn variance from one shock to the other setting it in the stiffest setting.  One shock cranked down probably 1/8 to 3/16" further on the marks on the top collar.  Anyone else notice that?

Ok, if anyone can give some help on these questions, I will get off the subject and not ask anymore about 440's. [smiley=laugh.gif]

[hd2003-se2005]

Yeah, 'er 'uh, Striker,
  Put mine on over at OTIS' garage.  We used my portable lift, and then put a floor jack under the rear tire.  Worked perfect.  I had the Lo-Profile Harley Shocks, which I think were 12".  I replaced them with the 11 1/2" HD Progressives.  I'm as happy as if I had good sense! [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]  Handles better, rides better, looks better, hell, I think it even RUNS better! [smiley=rifle.gif]  No tru-trac need here! [smiley=no.gif]  Later--HUBBARD  

Tater, Tater, Tater

Bet you were one of those guys that said in the early 80's
"Cell phone, I don't need no stinkin cell phone. If God had intended us to talk on cell phones then he wouldn't have put cords on them"

[hd-dude]

Got em on, really didn't take any time at all.  I will say that progressive doesn't give you alot of info on settings etc.  Another question for you that have em.  Mine are the HD 440's, 12".  
When people in here are saying they are going 2 or 2 1/2 turns, from what starting point? They come shipped in the softest setting, are you going 2  turns or what ever from there, or are you setting them to their stiffest setting and going what ever turns from there.

By the way, there was a several turn variance from one shock to the other setting it in the stiffest setting.  One shock cranked down probably 1/8 to 3/16" further on the marks on the top collar.  Anyone else notice that?

Ok, if anyone can give some help on these questions, I will get off the subject and not ask anymore about 440's. [smiley=laugh.gif]

I have never cranked mine all the way down to notice if there is a difference or not. The 2 turn setting would be from zero pre-load. FYI I found that when i'm riding by myself I like them about 1/2 turn.

[Twolanerider]

Got em on, really didn't take any time at all.  I will say that progressive doesn't give you alot of info on settings etc.  Another question for you that have em.  Mine are the HD 440's, 12".  
When people in here are saying they are going 2 or 2 1/2 turns, from what starting point? They come shipped in the softest setting, are you going 2  turns or what ever from there, or are you setting them to their stiffest setting and going what ever turns from there.

By the way, there was a several turn variance from one shock to the other setting it in the stiffest setting.  One shock cranked down probably 1/8 to 3/16" further on the marks on the top collar.  Anyone else notice that?

Ok, if anyone can give some help on these questions, I will get off the subject and not ask anymore about 440's. [smiley=laugh.gif]

Everyone is measuring from fully released Striker.  So the count of turns is making it tighter as you spin.