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[SPIDERMAN]

What's the scoop on these ?  Are the worth the price. Looking at a new battery for my boat and it's $362. Since the boat has an automatic bilge pump and will sit moored for long periods of time, I want a battery that will still crank over the motor if the bilge pumps been running. Would appreciate any inut on these batteries

B B

[hogasm]

What's the scoop on these ?  Are the worth the price. Looking at a new battery for my boat and it's $362. Since the boat has an automatic bilge pump and will sit moored for long periods of time, I want a battery that will still crank over the motor if the bilge pumps been running. Would appreciate any inut on these batteries

B B

Have tried many brands of batteries Optima's included

best bang for the buck   Interstate group 24 or 27 battery

Use a 2 battery set up...one battery that runs your bilge pump and all electronics a deep cycle/starting
                                 one battery that is a starting only battery

hook them up with a battery switch.....change marine batteries every 2 years

remember that when on the water....the closest land is straight down

[Gettinold]

Great advise Brian,I realy liked that. 

[Jock]

Taken from a website...

The Odyssey Battery is an AGM battery that is very unique and technologically advanced. It was designed to meet the demanding needs of the US Military with respect to heat, cold, shock and vibration, and to last much longer than other batteries. It is currently used in tanks, fighter jets, battle ships, and many other military applications. On top of this it delivers higher cranking power while also being the best deep cycle battery available (two to three times the cranking amperage of other similar sized batteries and the ability to be drawn down to 100% over 400 times). Other attributes include the ability to sit dormant for up to two years and still hold enough charge to start the motor it was intended for. This is very important because we often don’t get to use our boats as much as we would like during the season. The Odyssey battery actually lasts up to 6-10 years which is attributed to it being manufactured with 99.9% pure virgin lead. The US Coast Guard has 500 batteries in 50 Bollinger 87 foot protector class cutters since 1998 without a single failure to date. On top of all this, it is maintenance free and will not vent during normal operation due to its patented technology to reuse its internal gasses. It is also the only battery to claim an explosion proof design.

Charging the Odyssey battery is similar to a flooded battery. It is not sensitive to charging like other AGM’s and the Gel batteries. In fact, the Odyssey battery has no restrictions on the inrush of current and will recharge in one third the time of a conventional battery. This allows the battery to be utilized with traditional flooded chargers and typically does not require replacing your current charger in many applications. Most marine three stage chargers available today work very well for charging the AGM batteries.

[SPIDERMAN]

Hogasm
           I know you know waaaaaaaaaaaaa more about boats than I will ever know, BUT, to my understanding an Optima is not an Odyssey. Two different batteries from different companies. 

B B
      But I do like the two battery idea. Thanks 

[hogasm]

$75 each for 2 batteries every 2 years is a lot cheaper that $200 each for 2 batteries every 2 years

and you still make it back to the dock

[vagabond6542]

Spiderman,
Go to this link for a two battery hook up.
http://www.prioritystart.com/  and this one  http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/product/battery-isolators/1869 and this one http://www.hellroaring.com/marine.php

I found more links, but this is enough for an idea.

Safe boating.

[mrmagloo]

I would highly recommend taking it to the next level and installing shorepower. Then the batteries (I also recommend running two) are merely a battery backup to the 110v. I'm not sure what size your boat is, but this is the typical set up for most boats with twins with any sort of a shelter (cabin)

[SPIDERMAN]

I would highly recommend taking it to the next level and installing shorepower. Then the batteries (I also recommend running two) are merely a battery backup to the 110v. I'm not sure what size your boat is, but this is the typical set up for most boats with twins with any sort of a shelter (cabin)

magloo 
          Thank you so much for the first belly laugh of the day.

The boat in question is a 1988 19ft Mach 1 Challenger  4.3l Mercruiser I picked up while in Maine for $2,500.
It went to the local vocational high school (where it is now) for replacement of the flywheel/ring gear and starter and has since been used as a teaching tool for the kids in the boat repair course. They are going through the engine, outdrive and electricals from A-Z. I only have to pay for parts replaced. When I get it back I will replace the two rear jump seats and have new canvas made along with whatever I end up doing for a battery. I will have MAX $3,500 tied up in the boat when it goes into Sebago Lake for the season next May. This includes the galvanized Load Rite trailer it is currently sitting on. Quite a steal IMHO and I am tickled pink to have it, but certainly no yacht.

Shorepower    I expect to have a good chuckle all day long about that one.

B B 

[icybay]

BB  Since you are up in the North Woods where your batteries are subject to freezing and you don't want to fool with them again for several years you could  "invest" part of your 401K (while its still worth as much as a battery (pre democrat sweep)) in any AGM  (GlasMat). They are pretty much the chit, and we have switched all the batteries over in the pilot house to AGM.

Otherwise I'd  just go to the Portland Costco every year or two and buy one for 80 bucks and buy 10 cases of beer with the change, and give the old one the float test

[SPIDERMAN]

BB  Since you are up in the North Woods where your batteries are subject to freezing and you don't want to fool with them again for several years you could  "invest" part of your 401K (while its still worth as much as a battery ([size=6
pt]pre democrat sweep[/size])) in a AGM  (GlasMat)  a . They are pretty much the chit, and we have switched all the batteries over in the pilot house to AGM.

Otherwise I'd  just go to the Portland Costco every year or two and buy one for 80 bucks and buy 10 cases of beer with the change, and give the old one the float test

No Costco in Maine Tim, only Sam's Club. I'm gonna go with Hogasm's recommendation on the Interstates and the two battery set-up. Sounds like just the ticket with my concern over the bilge pump draining the battery down.

B B

[icybay]

Don't feel too  bad about the 362.00 Odyssey.  I just got a quote for a battery for my forklift and they want 7 grand.  No inflation around here.  Maybe I can buy your old batteries and stack them up.

[SPIDERMAN]

Tim
     About two weeks ago my boss had his secretary pack up my desk at BIW's office here in Dago. He also made sure all the info I had accumlated in nearly 28 years in the business was not in the boxes. I've filed a complaint with BIW's HR dept since that is a violation of company policy, but I doubt I will ever retrieve all of my sourcing info. I am still on the company payroll til year's end and my desk was not needed. He was simply being a complete nd total dickhead. Point is, where BIW buys on a huge scale, I had sources that were a lot cheaper to deal with I'm sure than you have. No dis intended simply stating fact. Our bottom line is in the 2 billion a year neighborhood. That creates a lot of clout with vendors. I had hoped to hang onto 27+ years of accumlated info for possible future use. My dickhead boss has certainly effed that up.

B B

[porthole]

used as a teaching tool for the kids in the boat repair course.
and electricals from A-Z.

 
 

Shorepower  I expect to have a good chuckle all day long about that one.

Probably for under 250 you can get a dual bank waterproof charger and shore power bulkhead connector.

Would keep you, your batteries and your bilge pump happy.

10 amp version of this charger
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=307530&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=27385&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch

Bulkhead connector
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=4889903&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=123421&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch

Dual battery switch.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10001&keyword=281469&jspStoreDir=wm51&productId=3094&resultCt=1&catalogId=10001&ddkey=SiteSearch

8501DP is fine as long as you are in the habit of not running the engines and switching the batteries.


You would have to spend a few bucks on quality wire and terminals for the switch and stuff, but it is well worth it.

[porthole]

No Costco in Maine Tim, only Sam's Club. I'm gonna go with Hogasm's recommendation on the Interstates and the two battery set-up. Sounds like just the ticket with my concern over the bilge pump draining the battery down.

B B

If the boat is going to stay in the water and you are away for more then a month you may want to consider the charger. But, if you have little rain in the area it will be less of a concern.

[porthole]

Don't feel too  bad about the 362.00 Odyssey.  I just got a quote for a battery for my forklift and they want 7 grand.  No inflation around here.  Maybe I can buy your old batteries and stack them up.

36 volt?

[SPIDERMAN]

If the boat is going to stay in the water and you are away for more then a month you may want to consider the charger. But, if you have little rain in the area it will be less of a concern.

Guys down at the local diner were telling me they make solar trickle chargers for boats now. This is getting high tech

B B

[vagabond6542]

Guys down at the local diner were telling me they make solar trickle chargers for boats now. This is getting high tech

B B

Anything is possible now these days. But, I'd be a little leary with the adverse weather factor in open seas though.

Just a thought.

[porthole]

Guys down at the local diner were telling me they make solar trickle chargers for boats now. This is getting high tech

B B

Brian - this is true, but he lesser expensive ones are not rated for continuous weather duty, so you need to look at the higher end.

I have the 2w version of this unit
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/232805/377%20710/0/solar%20power/Secondary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710&Ne=0&Ntt=solar%20power&Ntk=Secondary%20Search&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Nao=0&Ns=0&keyword=solar%20power&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=592

And it specifically states that it is not 100% weather tight. I only use to keep my trailer battery charged up when not connected to the house. But I also don't leave it out year round.

Solar could be a good option, if you get the right one, but remember - you have to leave it exposed to make it work and that leads it to be subject to theft.

[SPIDERMAN]

Like I said, I'm going with Hogasm's twin battery suggestion but thought since we were talking options for this type of thing I'd toss out this latest idea for discussion. I appreciate the feedback. The theft issue is not an issue in my area of Sebago but weather in Maine is certainly a factor. Sebago Lake can go from flat calm to 4 ft whitecaps in a blink.

B B

[hogasm]

B, Is the boat going to stay in the water or on a trailer when you are not around

[SPIDERMAN]

B, Is the boat going to stay in the water or on a trailer when you are not around

In the water from May - October

B B

[hogasm]

If you are going to leave it in the water and not on a lift, I would install the charger that Porthole brought up earlier.

I have a 4 battery battery charger on my Donzi. I did not plug it in the other week and it rained alot while I was out of town. The battery that runs the bilge pumps was not quite all the way down, but close enough that I was uneasy.

Wont leave it unplugged for that length of time again

[SPIDERMAN]

Off topic yes, but this info certainly made my day. No other boats have yet to appear at the Voc HS, so my boat is the only project they've got. They're into the electrical system as the motor tilt worked in trailer mode but only down in trim mode. Also, there is an inverter in the boat the instructor says isn't wired correctly. They are checking the navigation lights, instruments and anything electrical. They're also testing the trailer wiring. That being said, I sent him an e-mail and said I'd be happy to pay for the parts needed to set up a two battery system on a switch. Now if only they taught upholstery and canvas making  I'm not complaining as I've already hit the jackpot with this.

One final question. I've searched everywhere on the net and cannot come up with any contact info for Mach 1 boats. There are 2008 models for sale, so they must still be in business. If anyone can find a address, e-mail or phone number, I'd appreciate it greatly. I'd like to see if I can buy an owner's manual and/or shop manual. I have no idea what the capacity of the gas tank is and some other questions.

B B

[Twolanerider]

Off topic yes, but this info certainly made my day. No other boats have yet to appear at the Voc HS, so my boat is the only project they've got. They're into the electrical system as the motor tilt worked in trailer mode but only down in trim mode. Also, there is an inverter in the boat the instructor says isn't wired correctly. They are checking the navigation lights, instruments and anything electrical. They're also testing the trailer wiring. That being said, I sent him an e-mail and said I'd be happy to pay for the parts needed to set up a two battery system on a switch. Now if only they taught upholstery and canvas making  I'm not complaining as I've already hit the jackpot with this.

One final question. I've searched everywhere on the net and cannot come up with any contact info for Mach 1 boats. There are 2008 models for sale, so they must still be in business. If anyone can find a address, e-mail or phone number, I'd appreciate it greatly. I'd like to see if I can buy an owner's manual and/or shop manual. I have no idea what the capacity of the gas tank is and some other questions.

B B

Companies.  I can find them!

Concord Boats.  Making the Mach lineup (and others).  Here ya go:

http://www.concordboats.com

[SPIDERMAN]

Companies.  I can find them!

Concord Boats.  Making the Mach lineup (and others).  Here ya go:

http://www.concordboats.com

Thank you sir 

B B

[porthole]

Also, there is an inverter in the boat the instructor says isn't wired correctly.

Inverter?

Inverter takes 12volts DC and outputs 110 AC. The higher end models double as a charger. That sounds unlikely with the size of the boat you have.
If it is a "converter", 110 AC down to 12 DC that does not belong on a boat!

Marine grade only 12volt chargers or inverters.

You put the wrong 110 appliance on your boat and you are likely to do a lot of damage to your boat and the others around it.

Same goes with incorrectly wired boats - novices should not be wiring boats.

I am the #2 person in a TowBoatUS marine assistance company in central Jersey.
We respond to 50 or so vessels a year that look like the one below. I have thousands of pictures like this.

It is usually the same - "I thought the batteries were charged" "I just checked it last month" etc.

The interesting thing about this picture, the boats belong to two professional captains.
The boat floating belongs to a real pro - probably the best tuna fisherman in the tri-state area.
The one sunk belongs to a "professional" bull chitter. He is a "pro" captain but he writes the fishing column for the NJ Star Ledger. Not much of a captain either.

[porthole]

Several years ago my boat neighbor, unbeknownst to me , was having electrical problems with his batteries and chargers.

He went out and put a standard automotive style battery charger in the boat.

While 35 miles from the inlet and maneuvering to anchor into a a wreck I ended up spinning a rudder on the shaft. The shaft was broken due to glavanic corrosion (some call it electolosys).

Ended up with serious damage to my boat from the electric in the water.
My repairs, buying parts at dealer cost and doing the labor myself, cost me $7500 dollars. This type of damage is typically not covered by insurance.

The first picture is of a prop blade

[porthole]

This is a picture of one of the shafts.

Most of the damage was on one side, the side closest to the other boat, but you have to change this stuff in pairs.

Props $3200
Shafts $2100
Rudders and related install parts $1800

And a boat load of miscellaneous stuff to go with it.

[icybay]

.Zincs- never leave home without them.  Zincs are not cheap but they are cheaper than the alternative!!! 20 pounds each and the prop nuts are about 80. I usually put on about 2000 pounds. Next I suppose the  EPA will ban them for polluting, like they did copper bottom paint.

[Keats]

That is one big A$$ boat.

That prop looks like it is 6 foot in diameter....

[Hoist!]

Zincs, AKA Cathodic Protection.

The idea is to put a sacrificial annode in to take the electrolytic attack before it gets to the expensive chit!!!
Hoist!

[Keats]

The idea is to put a sacrificial annode in to take the electrolytic attack before it gets to the expensive chit!!!


Like pawns in a chess game.....

like infantry in a war


oh , forget it..............nevermind

Don's voices are getting to me

[porthole]

BB just a note - zincs are not for fresh water. The anodes are either magnesium  or aluminium. And they have to be matched to the boat, too much is just as bad as not enough.

[porthole]

.Zincs- never leave home without them.  Zincs are not cheap but they are cheaper than the alternative!!! 20 pounds each and the prop nuts are about 80. I usually put on about 2000 pounds. Next I suppose the  EPA will ban them for polluting, like they did copper bottom paint.

Tim,

The damage to my boat was in less then a week.

Interesting props you have there. Haven't seen anything like those on the boats around here. But then again most our fish boats are under 100' and use Kort's (the metal hulls at least)

[porthole]

Zincs, AKA Cathodic Protection.

"Cathodic Protection" can get a little more involved then just adding zincs 

[Hoist!]

"Cathodic Protection" can get a little more involved then just adding zincs 

Yep, we use a Cathodic Protection system to protect Titanium tubes in the condensers in refrigeration machines using river water as cooloing water. These annodes are connected to a monitoring system. The concept is to protect the equipment while sacrificing cheaper materials that attract the electrolysi,s before it attacks the expensive stuff!

From Wikipedia:

Cathodic protection (CP)
is a technique to control the corrosion of a metal surface by making it work as a cathode of an electrochemical cell. This is achieved by placing in contact with the metal to be protected another more easily corroded metal to act as the anode of the electrochemical cell. Cathodic protection systems are most commonly used to protect steel, water or fuel pipelines and storage tanks, steel pier piles, ships, offshore oil platforms and onshore oil well casings.

Cathodic protection can be, in some cases, an effective method of preventing stress corrosion cracking.

Galvanic CP
Today, galvanic or sacrificial anodes are made in various shapes using alloys of zinc, magnesium and aluminium. The electrochemical potential, current capacity, and consumption rate of these alloys are superior for CP than iron.

Galvanic anodes are designed and selected to have a more "active" voltage (technically a more negative electrochemical potential) than the metal of the structure (typically steel). For effective CP, the potential of the steel surface is polarized (pushed) more negative until the surface has a uniform potential. At that stage, the driving force for the corrosion reaction is halted. The galvanic anode continues to corrode, consuming the anode material until eventually it must be replaced. The polarization is caused by the current flow from the anode to the cathode. The driving force for the CP current flow is the difference in electrochemical potential between the anode and the cathode.

Potential problems
A side effect of improperly performed cathodic protection may be production of hydrogen ions, leading to its absorption in the protected metal and subsequent hydrogen embrittlement of welds and materials with high hardness. Under normal conditions, the ionic hydrogen will combine at the metal surface to create hydrogen gas, which cannot penetrate the metal. Hydrogen ions, however, are small enough to pass through the crystalline steel structure, and can in some cases lead to hydrogen embrittlement.

Hoist!

[porthole]

Gee Howie   you left off ICCP 

[Hoist!]

Gee Howie   you left off ICCP 

If ya need it Duane!

Impressed current CP
For larger structures, galvanic anodes cannot economically deliver enough current to provide complete protection. Impressed current cathodic protection (ICCP) systems use anodes connected to a DC power source (a cathodic protection rectifier). Anodes for ICCP systems are tubular and solid rod shapes or continuous ribbons of various specialized materials. These include high silicon cast iron, graphite, mixed metal oxide, platinum and niobium coated wire and others.

 
A cathodic protection rectifier connected to a pipeline.A typical ICCP system for a pipeline would include an AC powered rectifier with a maximum rated DC output of between 10 and 50 amperes and 50 volts. The positive DC output terminal is connected via cables to the array of anodes buried in the ground (the anode groundbed). For many applications the anodes are installed in a 60 m (200 foot) deep, 25 cm (10-inch) diameter vertical hole and backfilled with conductive coke (a material that improves the performance and life of the anodes). A cable rated for the expected current output connects the negative terminal of the rectifier to the pipeline. The operating output of the rectifier is adjusted to the optimum level after conducting various tests including measurements of electrochemical potential.

Hoist!

[icybay]

Duane,  They are  Nautican, 88-in-dia X 65-in pitch propellers on 8-in-dia stainless steel tail shafts. They are called "skewed" propellers and they are quite efficient and very common here. Designed in Vancouver BC and built, where else, in China.  Mostly I have nozzles on the boats.

I feel your pain, seen plenty of electrolysis. There is nothing that can eat a boat up faster than a bad ground or direct short in yours or the next guys Shorepower set up. You are lucky it didn't eat your block up. We even flush the toilets with fresh water to keep the corrosion out of the domestic systems.   Fortunately, my moorage in Seattle (Lake Union)  is in fresh water, thanks to the Ballard Locks, so it isn't much of a problem.

http://www.nautican.com/

[porthole]

They are  Nautican, 88-in-dia X 65-in pitch propellers on 8-in-dia stainless steel tail shafts. They are called "skewed" propellers and they are quite efficient and very common here. Designed in Vancouver BC and built, where else, in China.  Mostly I have nozzles on the boats.

Must be the difference between set and haul and draggers.

Most of our commercial boats are clam - scallop and net boats, so I guess the difference is the low speed high torque ops.

[SPIDERMAN]

BB just a note - zincs are not for fresh water. The anodes are either magnesium  or aluminium. And they have to be matched to the boat, too much is just as bad as not enough.

Actually not necessarily true. The trim tab on most pleasureboat outdrives is zinc whether the boat is used in fresh water or salt. As all of the other posts on this thread note, things get a bit more complicated where commercial or military watercraft is concerned. The Arleigh Burke Class Destroyers I've spent the last 20 plus years of my life working on, first as a designer, then an engineering liason and finally as Sr Homeport Rep responsible for the care and continuous maintenance of 12 of them in San Diego have a variety of anti-corrosion systems, both passive (corrosion resistant metals, zinc annodes) and active Cathodic protection. As such I am well aware of what's what when it comes to corrosion resistance.
As regards the boat I started this BATTERY thread on, it has fittings for anodes on the stern if the boat is used in salt water. One of the many little details that have made this purchase the find of a decade.

B B

[SPIDERMAN]

Inverter?

Inverter takes 12volts DC and outputs 110 AC. The higher end models double as a charger. That sounds unlikely with the size of the boat you have.
If it is a "converter", 110 AC down to 12 DC that does not belong on a boat!

I did say it wasn't right in my post didn't I ? Yup, I did. There were a some 110AC "things" on the boat that the previous owner stripped off when I bought it. For whatever reason, he left the inverter. The way he had it set up was with alligator clips that he connected when using the "things" in question. Since posting about it, I have told my buddy to yank it as I have no use for it. If I put a stereo in the boat it will be compatible with the boats electrical system.

On another note, this boat will sit by itself in a secluded cove of a fresh water lake. The closest boat to it will likely be 1/2 mile away at the far end of the cove since there is only one other remaining property owner in this cove. The cove is at the extreme end of a no body contact area and the Public Water District that controls the water supply has bought out all but 6 property owners with in the 2 mile non contact zone. Hence on another thread somewhere I mentioned installing a 15,000 gallon swimming pool on the property this summer. But I digress. I am no dummy, just a few years since my last small pleasure boat and far far over the line into extreme duty Naval applications. That's why I started this thread. I was hoping for a KISS not rocket science. I've been paid handsomely for years for rocket science. I need to dumb down and be a weekend Gilligan again.

B B

[hogasm]

Big B...install a boat lift and tell us to KYA

really if you do install a battery charger...which you should if you keep the boat in the water.....get a marine grade one.
the first post Duane posted with a charger and bulkhead connector from Boat US or West marine is all you need for your boat.

[hogasm]

This is a picture of one of the shafts.

Most of the damage was on one side, the side closest to the other boat, but you have to change this stuff in pairs.

Props $3200
Shafts $2100
Rudders and related install parts $1800

And a boat load of miscellaneous stuff to go with it.

Nice work by your neighbor....One problem with keeping ones boat in the water is that you are at the mercy of your dock buddies as to how they maintain their equipment. The guy next to ours last year was as tight as they come on maintenance. Needless to say it only took a few talks with the dock master and the DM to talk to him before he left.

Haulouts were alot cheaper after he left

[SPIDERMAN]

Big B...install a boat lift and tell us to KYA

really if you do install a battery charger...which you should if you keep the boat in the water.....get a marine grade one.
the first post Duane posted with a charger and bulkhead connector from Boat US or West marine is all you need for your boat.

Would love to Brian, but since I left Maine 11 years ago the rules have changed. In my section of the lake I can only install a dock "large enough to dock a boat "  Now I haven't as yet found out what that means and fortunately this falls under the town code enforcement officere whom I met this summer and is a really good guy. At anyrate, whatever you put in the water has to come out every fall, so a fixed dock with a canopy like they build on the Halifax river down in Daytona is out of the question. Most likely a bunch of  4ft x 12ft floating sections with three of them fixed together for a dock. I figure 8 sections total. That puts me 60 ft out into the water from the beach with a 12 x 12 dock on the end. The drop off in the bottom of the lake is shallow so at 60 ft, I'll only have 6 feet of water under the dock. Fine for my little puddle jumper. 

As to the charger, the Voc High School has already wired me up with a battery switch and two battery boxes sized to the Interstates you mentioned in your post. I will buy the batteries next spring when I go to Maine vice now so as to get the extra 6 or 7 months on the warranty. Thanks for the good advice.

B B

[porthole]

thought since we were talking options for this type of thing I'd toss out this latest idea for discussion.

You hijacked your own thread 

Also, there is an inverter in the boat the instructor says isn't wired correctly. They are checking the navigation lights ............

I did say it wasn't right in my post didn't I ? Yup, I did.

Yup ya did - only that it wasn't wired right though - nothing as to whether it was marine grade or not.

As such I am well aware of what's what when it comes to corrosion resistance.

Point taken - I'll keep my ideas suppressed

As regards the boat I started this BATTERY thread on,

This was supposed to be about batteries?

OK - I'm with Brian "Donzi" on this. If I didn't get a steep discount on batteries at West Marine I would use standard heavy duty batteries, either the Interstate Brian mentioned or for your boat you should be able to get deep cycles at Costco as Tim suggested.

The high end batteries do a better job of emptying your wallet then anything else. Maybe if you were going to be sailing across the pond or spending 6 months or more away from land then it may pay to have higher end batteries. But if you don't maintain them it won't matter anyway

which brings us back to the charger suggestion.

[porthole]

Duane,  They are  Nautican, 88-in-dia X 65-in pitch propellers on 8-in-dia stainless steel tail shafts. They are called "skewed" propellers

By skewed, do you mean the pitch varies across the blade?

[SPIDERMAN]

Porthole
             How do you do the multiple quote thing ?  I've always wondered about that

B B

[hogasm]

Porthole
             How do you do the multiple quote thing ?  I've always wondered about that

B B

I've wondered that also

And how do you answer each quote

thanks

[porthole]

How do you do the multiple quote thing ?  I've always wondered about that

You mean like this

I've wondered that also

And how do you answer each quote

thanks

Or like this?

[Fired00d]

Porthole
             How do you do the multiple quote thing ?  I've always wondered about that

B B

I've wondered that also

And how do you answer each quote

thanks

You mean like that?? It'a all about copy/paste and multiple windows open.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[porthole]

Pretty simple actually

Right click on the "quote", select open in new tab (I.E. 7) or new window.
Do that for each post you want in your reply.

Then just do a "cut & paste" into one post.

So, right click - open in new window or tab, answer the quote then copy & paste the next quote form the "open in new window" screen into your first reply and answer.

Did I say that so you followed?

[porthole]

You can get lost sometimes replying like I did in #46  End up not making much sense if you paste in the wrong order.

[hogasm]

Not working for me

[hogasm]

Pretty simple actually

Right click on the "quote", select open in new tab (I.E. 7) or new window.
Do that for each post you want in your reply.

Then just do a "cut & paste" into one post.

So, right click - open in new window or tab, answer the quote then copy & paste the next quote form the "open in new window" screen into your first reply and answer.

Did I say that so you followed?

11

You can get lost sometimes replying like I did in #46  End up not making much sense if you paste in the wrong order.

22

You mean like that?? It'a all about copy/paste and multiple windows open.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

33

Ok my experiment worked

[hogasm]

Gonna kill my post count doing it this way

[porthole]

Gonna kill my post count doing it this way

Yeah - but you'll look more cleverererrerer 

[Fired00d]

Gonna kill my post count doing it this way

When did post count ever concern you.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[SPIDERMAN]

When did post count ever concern you.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Of all the chit that's come out of your mouth d00d, this has got to be the biggest of the big ones 

Give me a break 

[porthole]

How do you do the multiple quote thing ?  I've always wondered about that

Hey - you just hijacked your own thread again 

[SPIDERMAN]

Hey - you just hijacked your own thread again 

You're quick - - - - - - - - -  almost 

B B

[vagabond6542]

Went thru this thread again, There is no doubt that humor rules again.
And it is also apparent that being dumb and dummer after years of "Rocket Science" is the way to go.

Spidey,
Sounds to me that you have every thing under control.

Ride Safe and Safe Boating.

[mrmagloo]

I figure in another couple of days we'll come full circle so I can jump back on again.