Topic: 2009 cvo 110 overheating problems (Read 26166 times)

Geothermal · « **on:** February 01, 2009, 09:57:15 PM »

Just bought a new 2009 fat bob from day one there was alot of noise in the top end at 2800-3200 rpms plus the bike seemed to be running hot.
Took it into the dealer, explained what was going on. The mechanic took it for a ride, came back and told me that the noise was normal in the 110 motors and that they were going to run hotter. I have been riding bikes for 30 years and declare bull. He told me to let it get broken in. Well it now has 625 milesw on it and got on it a few times well guess what it got so hot i couldnt even sit on the bike. Got in some slow traffic and the motor started to idle down to about 6000 like it dropped a cylender. It also starts to stall when this happens. Funny thing is I live in Colorado, it's January and 45 degrees. I also own a 2007 dyna superglide custom, was checking the temp on it all summer the highest it ever got was 294 on a 100 degree day.
Also checked alot of other harley all summer long 294 was the hottest i could find. Decided to take the cvo out last night 50 degrees , rode it for 3 miles it was at 292 degrees and was cutting out at stop lights. Have been reading all the overheating, top end noise problems with the 07/08 holly cow. What this bike going to do at 100 degrees, also was reading about the oils leaks, went out and checked my bike, well guess what, it's starting to seap oil. I thought Harley had fixed these problems. Well the bike is headed back to the dealer, along with my boot. You pay top dollar for a cvo harley and it makes more noise on the top end than a bad running diesel and runs so hot you could ride it naked at 40 degrees.

Anyone else having problems with the 2009 110 cvo

Mike

Hoist! · « **Reply #1 on:** February 01, 2009, 10:16:29 PM »

Welcome aboard Geo! Interesting Screen name! You in the business?

Re your motor, all's I can say is regardless of any mods you want to do or not, GET THAT THING TUNED AND GET YOUR AFR DOWN!!!! Even stock motors need it. Your motor's setup to meet EPA, but not real world, keep your motor together form!!! You need to look at all the info here on how to overcome that! But it's easily done! By spending more money of course!!! Enjoy this Great Site man!

Hoist!

planenut · « **Reply #2 on:** February 01, 2009, 10:38:51 PM »

I agree with hoist and get that mtr tuned and welcome to the site

timo482 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:49:36 AM »

it almost sounds like its got a air leak..... $:-\$

sfarson · « **Reply #4 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:46:31 AM »

Mike, Clearly there is something wrong. I've had a 110" CVO Road King up in Park County for over two years, riding down to Denver all the time on the warmest (and coldest) of days. I run it hard. Zero over heating problems, zero top end sounds, no leaks, etc. Had the "enhancement" campaign performed just to have it done. And, I've had no tuning or FI adjustments made. Bone stock except for some slip-ons. But there is from the sound of things issues with your bike that need sorted. Take it to another dealer if you have to.

bisounours · « **Reply #5 on:** February 02, 2009, 02:34:56 AM »

Quote from: Geothermal on February 01, 2009, 09:57:15 PM

Just bought a new 2009 fat bob from day one there was alot of noise in the top end at 2800-3200 rpms plus the bike seemed to be running hot.
Took it into the dealer, explained what was going on. The mechanic took it for a ride, came back and told me that the noise was normal in the 110 motors and that they were going to run hotter. I have been riding bikes for 30 years and declare bull. He told me to let it get broken in. Well it now has 625 milesw on it and got on it a few times well guess what it got so hot i couldnt even sit on the bike. Got in some slow traffic and the motor started to idle down to about 6000 like it dropped a cylender. It also starts to stall when this happens. Funny thing is I live in Colorado, it's January and 45 degrees. I also own a 2007 dyna superglide custom, was checking the temp on it all summer the highest it ever got was 294 on a 100 degree day.
Also checked alot of other harley all summer long 294 was the hottest i could find. Decided to take the cvo out last night 50 degrees , rode it for 3 miles it was at 292 degrees and was cutting out at stop lights. Have been reading all the overheating, top end noise problems with the 07/08 holly cow. What this bike going to do at 100 degrees, also was reading about the oils leaks, went out and checked my bike, well guess what, it's starting to seap oil. I thought Harley had fixed these problems. Well the bike is headed back to the dealer, along with my boot. You pay top dollar for a cvo harley and it makes more noise on the top end than a bad running diesel and runs so hot you could ride it naked at 40 degrees.

Anyone else having problems with the 2009 110 cvo

Mike

Good morning Mike,

on the CVO website

It would be nice for the other members if you present you in the thread New member introduction
with a pic of your bike

Best regards

Jacques

Gone Fishin' · « **Reply #6 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:02:48 AM »

Quote from: Geothermal on February 01, 2009, 09:57:15 PM

Just bought a new 2009 fat bob from day one there was alot of noise in the top end at 2800-3200 rpms plus the bike seemed to be running hot.
Took it into the dealer, explained what was going on. The mechanic took it for a ride, came back and told me that the noise was normal in the 110 motors and that they were going to run hotter. I have been riding bikes for 30 years and declare bull. He told me to let it get broken in. Well it now has 625 milesw on it and got on it a few times well guess what it got so hot i couldnt even sit on the bike. Got in some slow traffic and the motor started to idle down to about 6000 like it dropped a cylender. It also starts to stall when this happens. Funny thing is I live in Colorado, it's January and 45 degrees. I also own a 2007 dyna superglide custom, was checking the temp on it all summer the highest it ever got was 294 on a 100 degree day.
Also checked alot of other harley all summer long 294 was the hottest i could find. Decided to take the cvo out last night 50 degrees , rode it for 3 miles it was at 292 degrees and was cutting out at stop lights. Have been reading all the overheating, top end noise problems with the 07/08 holly cow. What this bike going to do at 100 degrees, also was reading about the oils leaks, went out and checked my bike, well guess what, it's starting to seap oil. I thought Harley had fixed these problems. Well the bike is headed back to the dealer, along with my boot. You pay top dollar for a cvo harley and it makes more noise on the top end than a bad running diesel and runs so hot you could ride it naked at 40 degrees.

Anyone else having problems with the 2009 110 cvo

Mike

Mike,
To my knowledge there has seldom been any overheating on the Softail or Dyna CVO's. That was usually limited to the Touring bikes, mostly the E-Glides. If your bike is running that hot, you have a mechanical problem there. You should probably try to get a second opinion from another dealer in your area.

Ride safely,
Louis

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #7 on:** February 02, 2009, 07:14:12 AM »

I have a 09 SERG that when new with no miles is was very hot and noisey. The noise is still there and the temps have come down with about 2000 miles on the clock. Just have baffle change for now but will be tunning it before summer and 90* days. I disabled the rear cylinder shut down as it would come on at every light I stopped at untill I had some miles on it. My oil temps remain at 220 to 240 in 70* days now. Doc

DarkEagle · « **Reply #8 on:** February 02, 2009, 08:09:19 AM »

Have had my 09 CVO Springer since end of August last year.

I was not able to get some good miles on it at the end of summer but now have 600 miles bone stock, with no leaks, over heating, or excess noise that I'm aware of.

Hope you can get the dealer to take this seriously. Please keep us updated, all us late 08's & 09'ners are hoping the 110 problems are all fixed. Sounds more like what happens when a bull gets fixed...

BLM777 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 02, 2009, 09:49:11 AM »

Shouldn't be having the overheating problem on your bike. My '09 Springer runs considerably cooler than by 103 SEEG did. The problem at idle is the auto shut down on the rear cyl as the ECM is picking up the high temp. Most dealers I know turn off the shutdown on all models except dressers during the PDI as it always tends to be a pain in the ...... The noisy top end is not typical either in the '09's. Sounds like you need to find a dealer that will address the noise issue while you take care of the miserable AF ratio set at the factory with a good tune and free flowing exhaust.

Talon · « **Reply #10 on:** February 02, 2009, 10:02:55 AM »

Not sure where you live in Colorado, I'd try going to a different dealer, have them check it out.
Craig

gremlush · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2009, 02:58:20 PM »

I think TIMO is right ,you have a intake leak. I had 1 intake {tb} seal that was BAD from the factory. Easy to check , spray something on the intake and see if the motor revs up or dowm. I said 'something' because you will get 2 hundred dif things to spray. Dewey

bogman · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2009, 03:53:57 PM »

Welcome to the forum Mike, like you im new also, your post is a bit scarey, im waiting on a 2009 Springer Softail CVO and aware of potential problems, get your bike sorted right away, a question here people, is there an oil temperature guage/monitor on the bike or is it an accessory, also can you fit a rev counter to it
Thanks Charles

ryr8828dj · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2009, 04:15:55 PM »

Mike...

My CVO Fat Bob didn't have the top end chatter that I've heard others report. But it did run hot. Even on cool days the Temperature Management System would shut the rear cylinder down at idle way too often. I was going to have the dealer shut it off but opted to tune it. Put on 2" Rush Pipes and a Power Commander and a tune and it runs much cooler now. The rear cylinder rarely shuts down now.

Around 500 miles I found oil leaking from the breather. With a few test runs I discovered it was blowing oil into the breather when I was running it hard (at highway speed. I now run the oil a little low (1st Hash mark under full) and keep an eye on it. Seeing a small amount of oil at the breather but is manageable. Just a shame it would leak at all.

Overall the bike is outstanding.

Geothermal · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2009, 04:55:24 PM »

Thanks everyone for all the responses. Talked with the dealer again today. They told me that they wernt aware of any overheating problems with the 110 motor or any other problems. Thats when i declared bull, showed them the recalls and all the problems with th 07/08 models. Also showed them them a potential class action suit under investigation on the 07/08 models for the same problems i am having.

After showing them all of this and a long disscussion with the head service tech, he agreed my bike has a serious problem. They will be picking it up in the morning. I will let you know what happens. The head service tech was great, I told him to do whatever it takes to fix the problem, being race tunner pipes, dyno etc. His responce was sounds like we need to fix the problem first, instead of masking it. That was a little more comforting.

Thanks againg everyone...Mike

bogman · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:05:36 PM »

Good stuff Mike, that looks very positive

jfh · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2009, 05:07:37 PM »

GEothermal-

It's ashame you had to go to such lengths to get the dealer to acknowledge you were having a serious issue. Hopefully, they will do the right thing and correct the problem.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

Geothermal · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:09:58 PM »

Good news, took bike to the harley dealer today. Their head tech took it for a ride. Admits that the diesel sounding noise is defitanly not normal, also admits that the engine is running way to hot, and the gasket at the base of the rear cylender is starting to seap oil. He called me back again tonight and said they have physically checked out everything they could phyiscally. There going to put it on the dyno tommorow to figure out what the problem is. Could be a bad ecm had that happen to a friends Buell that was running really hot. When they changed it out his heat problems went away. Anyways once they figure it out I will get a tunner, pipes and have it dynoed again.

Hoist, I am in the geothermal buisness, heres a link to my companies.
www.rockymountaingeothermal.com
www.geoenergyservices.com

Hope to know something by tommorow. Its going to to be 65 tommorow 68 on Thursday INCEDABLE FOR DENVER...will have to ride the superglide for now.
I let everyone know what happens with the dyno and what they find.

skreminegul07 · « **Reply #18 on:** February 05, 2009, 08:34:26 AM »

Quote from: Geothermal on February 03, 2009, 09:09:58 PM

Good news, took bike to the harley dealer today. Their head tech took it for a ride. Admits that the diesel sounding noise is defitanly not normal, also admits that the engine is running way to hot, and the gasket at the base of the rear cylender is starting to seap oil. He called me back again tonight and said they have physically checked out everything they could phyiscally. There going to put it on the dyno tommorow to figure out what the problem is. Could be a bad ecm had that happen to a friends Buell that was running really hot. When they changed it out his heat problems went away. Anyways once they figure it out I will get a tunner, pipes and have it dynoed again.

Hoist, I am in the geothermal buisness, heres a link to my companies.
www.rockymountaingeothermal.com
www.geoenergyservices.com

Hope to know something by tommorow. Its going to to be 65 tommorow 68 on Thursday INCEDABLE FOR DENVER...will have to ride the superglide for now.
I let everyone know what happens with the dyno and what they find.

The Dyno ain't gonna help that. What's the plan for the leak? You should call HD Customer Service now and open a ticket. Let them you know the history and that this isn't a one off problem and that the fix was supposed to be in the 2009, so what's the plan here?

sadunbar · « **Reply #19 on:** February 05, 2009, 02:53:10 PM »

Quote from: Geothermal on February 03, 2009, 09:09:58 PM

Good news, took bike to the harley dealer today. Their head tech took it for a ride. Admits that the diesel sounding noise is defitanly not normal, also admits that the engine is running way to hot, and the gasket at the base of the rear cylender is starting to seap oil. He called me back again tonight and said they have physically checked out everything they could phyiscally. There going to put it on the dyno tommorow to figure out what the problem is. Could be a bad ecm had that happen to a friends Buell that was running really hot. When they changed it out his heat problems went away. Anyways once they figure it out I will get a tunner, pipes and have it dynoed again.

Hoist, I am in the geothermal buisness, heres a link to my companies.
www.rockymountaingeothermal.com
www.geoenergyservices.com

Hope to know something by tommorow. Its going to to be 65 tommorow 68 on Thursday INCEDABLE FOR DENVER...will have to ride the superglide for now.
I let everyone know what happens with the dyno and what they find.

Really sorry to hear of your issues... Yours is the first 2009 that I have heard of with this type issue. I'll be curious to learn what has happened and how it is corrected. I'm not to sure what they will learn on the dyno - unless it does turn out to be related to the ecm - (which I would doubt - but - hey - got to start somewhere!)

jcsjohn · « **Reply #20 on:** April 07, 2009, 06:32:01 PM »

Geothermal

We both have the same bike - an 09 CVO Fat Bob. I ride in Florida -- so both in hot climate.

From my experience your problems seem extreme. Good getting the dealer to act.

I took the following actions:

-- changed the pipe to a VH Competition model -- verrrry open -- gets the heat out faster

-- added a Jagg 6 row cooler -- now upgrading to a ten row

-- installed Xied between O2 sensor and ecu - (http://www.nightrider.com/parts) AF ratios to 13.8 from EPA's 14.6

I DID NOT disconnect the single lunger overheat feature -- to me that's begging for a meltdown !!

This has resulted in a cooler bike -- to me the minimum required to have a chance at no failures.

The dealers seem not to understand the problem -- and the 110 may be the end of the line for HD's Air/Oil cooled engines. It happened to Porsche and I am afraid it is happening to Harley -- thank the EPA !!!

Hope this helps -- John

bogman · « **Reply #21 on:** April 07, 2009, 06:57:29 PM »

Quote from: jcsjohn on April 07, 2009, 06:32:01 PM

I took the following actions:
-- added a Jagg 6 row cooler -- now upgrading to a ten row
Hope this helps -- John

Most interesting John, may just look into one of these, thanks for your tips

pokerpig · « **Reply #22 on:** April 07, 2009, 08:37:48 PM »

The first thing I did was put on the SERT. That was enough to really bring the heat down.

It also seems to me that it takes a while for these engines to really break in. Mine kept running better and cooler until 7 or 8 thousand miles.

Beautiful day for riding here in Colorado today!

Rickter · « **Reply #23 on:** April 07, 2009, 10:41:00 PM »

Stock FXDFSE, 2009, 110ci, about 850miles on it so far. Maryland weather conditions. Today.... No leaks that I can see. Bike runs and sounds like a clock. Stock pipes, Stock calibration, stock everything until I can get past the 1K service. Will Idle down if it sits for a while..

Almost runs too good to change the pipes, nah, gotta change the pipes

Just to add a piece of the puzzle.
Rickter

ragrep · « **Reply #24 on:** April 08, 2009, 10:26:14 AM »

The only reason I can see why they might want to put it on the dyno - would be to get it hot under a load, in a controlled environment to see what its doing- how quickly it overheats, what sort of top end noise it creates ect.

Ive got 400 miles on my 09 SERG, and while there isn't much top end noise, it definitely runs hot- one of the cylinders drops out at idle when Im sitting at a traffic light. Its not been over 70 degrees outside temp, and I have yet to really run the bike hard since Im still in break in mode. It definitely needs a Fi controller- and I'll be going with the PC5.

Bottom line- if you aren't satisfied with the results your dealer is giving you, keep pushing them to solve it and make it right. They make a lot of profit on these CVO bikes, and the dealer and MoCo needs go the extra mile to keep the customer happy.

HDDOCFL · « **Reply #25 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:46:44 AM »

If you are not happy with the dealers decisions call HD customer service and have a area rep. sent to check out the bike. Doc

Geothermal · « **Reply #26 on:** April 12, 2009, 01:24:40 PM »

I posted before on the overheating problems and top end noise in my 2009 CVO Fat Bob.

While the dyno and tune helped, it still didn't sole all of my concerns. Finally talked with a mechanic from the dealer that really knew his motors, he had spent years working in a race shop building bike engines.

So i took his advice and spent $ 1,700.00 to change the cam, pipes and a few other items. This is the best 1,700.00 i have ever spent on a bike. Picked the bike up yesterday and OMFG. You will have to hold on while riding this bike, All i can say is the upgrade gave this bike more power and torq that you could imagine. It also solved the noise in the engine and the overheating problems, took the girlfriend for a ride and she was screaming whiplash withing the first few gears. Between the new cam and pipes this bike is one of the best sounding Harley's i have ever heard. The mechanic is now recomending this upgrade to all his 110 clients, if you would like to talk with him heres his name and number Wayne - Mile high Harley service department 303-343-3300

Here is a list of parts required for this upgrade.
Part Number Description
1800-0239 Exhaust. B radius 06 Dyna
25743-06 SE 257 Cam Kit
0924-0107 x2 - Bearing Cam 07-UP TC
DS-172104 Cometic HD GSKT .030 95"TC
16719-99B x2 - Gasket, Rocker housing
26995-86B x2 - Seal Intake Manifold
SHOP SYN Synthetic 3 LUB 20/50
63798-99A Oil Filter, Chrome SuperPremium
17386-99A x2 - Gasket, Rocker Cover
25736-06 Spacer .130
10014 Hose Clamp

Note: The head gaskets are alot thinner than stock, bringing the head closer to the piston, the cam allows for less lag time between valve opening and closing, also raises the vales more.
While this bike was fast before, being a 110 on a Dyna frame, you would not believe it now.
For those of you looking for extreme power and torq from your 110 at a reasonable cost, here it is. Not to mention when you get on this bike it litterly sounds like a race Harley at the strip.

Mike

Report to moderator 67.165.234.2

ice6900
1K CVO Member

ice6900 · « **Reply #27 on:** April 12, 2009, 01:44:02 PM »

what oil temp is the motor running after the mods?

jettjocky · « **Reply #28 on:** April 13, 2009, 12:03:22 PM »

you need to get rear head temps down in the 210 to 220 range, that is why I am dumping the 8 core restictive oil cooler and going with two ten core Jagg verticle coolers in tandum,

LarryB · « **Reply #29 on:** April 13, 2009, 12:31:38 PM »

i know that bike comes with a heavy breather, did you change pipes? have you done a tuner to it?

jettjocky · « **Reply #30 on:** April 13, 2009, 12:42:57 PM »

yes to both, I'm not having any problems, I just am doing these mods to hopefully insure I don't,

Geothermal · « **Reply #31 on:** April 13, 2009, 03:05:21 PM »

The pipes are Vance Hines Big Radius.
Yes it has a race tunner and no they didn't shave the heads.

Mike

LarryB · « **Reply #32 on:** April 13, 2009, 03:16:00 PM »

when I did my TTS Mastertune, during the V-tune process, the temps ran upwards of 280. After I loaded the final map, the temps dropped dramatically. well within Normal range

ragrep · « **Reply #33 on:** April 14, 2009, 08:22:27 AM »

Larry-

I have a couple of questions: What's considered normal temps on the 110's: Oil Temp & Cylinder Temp? How are the temps measured: with what device? Where on the engine are they being measured- for example: if using a laser pyrometer are you shooting at either side of the spark plug, or somewhere else?

LarryB · « **Reply #34 on:** April 14, 2009, 08:42:51 AM »

When I shoot the temp, I pull the dipstick out and shoot the oil itself. As far as the NORMAL temps, 230 is a good number to shoot for. During slow moving events, rallies, parades, it will shoot up to the 260 or so range, but if you run full synthetics this won't be a problem.
I do not have a temp gauge in the dash, but do use the temp, level, dipstick.
Certain things that cause high temps are, too lean, obstructed air flow, i,e, A/C, Cats, restrictive mufflers.
Also the Spark plug temps has an effect.

miker · « **Reply #35 on:** April 14, 2009, 08:53:05 AM »

Quote from: ragrep on April 14, 2009, 08:22:27 AM

Larry-

I have a couple of questions: What's considered normal temps on the 110's: Oil Temp & Cylinder Temp? How are the temps measured: with what device? Where on the engine are they being measured- for example: if using a laser pyrometer are you shooting at either side of the spark plug, or somewhere else?

I use a device similar to this one...I try and measure on the rear cylinder just aft of the spark plug..
I have metal tempratures of 340-380 degress with oil temperature of 260..This is after flogging the bike hard, 2 up, in stop and go traffic. It is a stock 09cuse4 110 with Mobil 1 V twin...Oil temp of 270+ and metal temps of 380+ with Synlube by the way.

Our TC 88 cube dyna runs lower oil temps in the 240's but metal temp is similar. I have a D&D fatcat with quiet baffel and a tuned map planned for the 5k servcie interval..We'll see. My 07 110serk ran oil in the 240's with metal temps in 320-340 but afr was 13.5 across the board.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=823

ragrep · « **Reply #36 on:** April 14, 2009, 09:08:41 AM »

Thanks Larry & Mlker-

Head Temps: I tried to shoot either side of the sparkplug to get an average and got 340+/- metal temp on the rear cylinder and around 300+/- on the front cylinder. This was after 5 minute idle warm up, and a 20 minute pounding. I had just installed a PC5 tuner, non-cat header- 2" fullsac baffles.

Oil temps: I've tried shooting the oil from the filler opening as well as the mount on the oil filter cooler adapter, and front of the pan to get an average. Oil temp was around 240 degrees.

miker · « **Reply #37 on:** April 14, 2009, 09:24:29 AM »

Sounds good! At least when we all have similar numbers the data can mean something. What kind of motor oil?

I did put in the oil temp dipstick and check it for temp only at idle after a beating...

I'll post here after I pipe and tune but I will also switching to redline 20-60 wt synthetic motor oil too

jettjocky · « **Reply #38 on:** April 14, 2009, 09:46:47 AM »

From what I have read 230 is NOT a good temp to "shoot" for that is the main reason the rear head gasket fails near the oil return hole. With the installation of two ten core Jagg coolers & some other mods I am shooting for 210 to 220.

miker · « **Reply #39 on:** April 14, 2009, 09:58:01 AM »

Below 212 you do not get the condensate out of the oil, not good...

230 is fine for an air cooled motor...Or has been for my last 6 HD's

There are also sulfur radicals (SOx) that can degrade oils properties but will be driven off with temps over 220...

For another bit on metal temps, my 1935 flathead runs rear cylinder metal temperature of almost 400 degress F.

If you require a low oil temperature for comfort level, by all means achieve it..

Will the coolers have fans on them as the circulating coolers only deliver when moving along?

jettjocky · « **Reply #40 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:49:50 AM »

Each to his own, HD says 230 is fine you are correct, but the problems these motors are having says NO, your last 6 HDs were not 110s, with oil return line problem, the wise tail about 212 is just a wise tail, water naturely seperates from oil even at room temp, @ 185 (the temp at which the themo opens) any water is cooked off, again these motors are having problems because of HEAT, that's the reason for the limp factory 9.2 compression, the rear cylinder turn off etc. etc. cooling the oil as much as possible is the only savior,

miker · « **Reply #41 on:** April 14, 2009, 12:14:04 PM »

My last HD was a 110 and I went a bought another.

I tuned my 07 serk(110) to a pretty flat afr(13.5, mostly) but did not advance the timing, to keep it cooler to 230-240ish and had no problems with the barrels, the crank though made me worry.

I would not do cams..to much ommph and I think these cranks spin......That is no wives tale.
As some of our members can unfortunatley attest to this. $:-\$

I heat all the lube oil tanks at the power plant I work at as a staff engineer to 185F even when the units are not operating, to keep water from entraining atmosphericially.

Please keep in mind pressure changes the properties of water.

I have only assumed that the 110's jug issues were poor quality and design, just like the flexi-crank issue?
Some 96 motors have had the same problems as well...

Years ago, I had 96 inch shovelhead from hell, I swear it ran about a brazillion degrees and all I had with it was the oil pump leak like all good HD's..

So are you putting electric fans on these coolers too? I'd like to see some pictures when you get a chance to post! Best of luck

LarryB · « **Reply #42 on:** April 14, 2009, 02:06:53 PM »

this is starting to sound like a cooking thread

miker · « **Reply #43 on:** April 14, 2009, 02:33:51 PM »

A little wedge of lemon?

ragrep · « **Reply #44 on:** April 14, 2009, 03:47:12 PM »

Miker- Im still running the Syn3 oil that came in the bike- Im only at 450 miles on this one- I will also switch to the redline 20-60 when I do the 1000 mile service- I use the 20-60 in my hi-comp bikes- seems to quiet the top end and hold up to the heat very well.

miker · « **Reply #45 on:** April 14, 2009, 05:09:39 PM »

When I dropped the syn3 to Mobil 1 oil temp dropped 10 degress, that is it so far...and I'll take it for now..

ragrep · « **Reply #46 on:** April 20, 2009, 09:39:03 AM »

I went for 100 mile ride today- air temps were around 65-70 degrees - very average riding- but a few spots of stop & go traffic for 10 minutes waiting ect to cycle through the lights- a few times and the bike went in to EITMS mode- if these 110's run that hot in these conditions, I cant begin to think what will happen this summer.

miker · « **Reply #47 on:** April 20, 2009, 09:43:10 AM »

I have been stuck down here in heavy traffic, 95 degress plus ..the etms thingie seems to work, my ridn bud that day had his tc88 shut down and it had a parade fan...

ragrep · « **Reply #48 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:14:27 AM »

yeah, I heard those fans are useless. I had a 95" build in my FLHX and it used to shut down after 15-20 min of parade stop & go- just didnt think it kick in so soon on the 110-

if you dont feather the throttle right the and its in the EITMS mode- it just flat stalls out and have to restart. I found myself just shutting off the bike during red lights but- that cant be too good for starter life. I am beginning to think I need the ext-warranty.

miker · « **Reply #49 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:39:55 AM »

This 09 is the 1st one I bought one for...try Jenni at tricounty. Mention the site..

http://www.tri-countyharleydavidson.com/miscpage_005.asp

ragrep · « **Reply #50 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:44:25 AM »

what did you pay for the warranty?

miker · « **Reply #51 on:** April 20, 2009, 11:54:06 AM »

17 n change with tire, I think, I do not have the bike today, I'll check and post later...
They were the cheapest by a bit and Jenni is righteous.

timo482 · « **Reply #52 on:** April 20, 2009, 12:12:14 PM »

i have the fan on mine - if the temp sensor is not close enough to the head the blasted thing will never come on. for instance if you have a se air cleaner it wont hold the temp sensor close enough to ever come on... found this out with my 88. - had to make a spacer to hold the sensor close to the head.

on my 96" with a police air cleaner it holds the sensor about 1/16" from the head and the fan does come on and stays on when its hot - cools the engine right down.

it would be much better if the computer would turn the fan on rather than a seperate sensor - but in the absense you have to pay careful attention to keep the sensor close enough to the head.

to

DESERTBEAR54 · « **Reply #53 on:** April 20, 2009, 01:30:28 PM »

Just remember these 110's don't seriously get broke in till about 20,000 miles. It has taken a 1 1/2 to get my 08 SEUC running like a champ and 28,000 miles later a true joy to ride!! It is that Love/Hate relationship with Mother Harley!!

gstrickland · « **Reply #54 on:** May 05, 2009, 03:50:04 PM »

I bought my 09 SERG in November in Tucson Arizona, didn't notice any overheating because...it was cool temperatures, went to Daytona bike week in April, felt like a "chicken in a Broiler" Immediately installed a SERT and had it dynoed, the temperature went way down, had to wait untill late April for Thunderheader to make the exhaust for the new frame configuration (with falsee pipe), it was well worth waiting for, I installed new gear drive cams and this bike runs cool and will "fly like an Eagle" now!

casper · « **Reply #55 on:** May 05, 2009, 05:25:27 PM »

Thats the problem people dont want to believe that the factory makes them run so lean to pass EPA they run a little hot. Put pipes a fuel management system and hi flow air cleaner, and also a good synthetic oil and that 110 will run grat for you, I am niw at 6000 miles getting 40+ MPG and no problems .
Love the 110

Diamondback · « **Reply #56 on:** May 05, 2009, 05:55:04 PM »

All some one has to do is spend $40.00 bucks for a single pass Dyno run, no tune to see the 14.7 AFR and how lean the bikes runs.
Plus the 80 hp (maybe) and 105 ft-lbs (maybe)

FLSTFI Dave · « **Reply #57 on:** May 06, 2009, 11:40:44 AM »

Quote from: LarryB on April 13, 2009, 03:16:00 PM

when I did my TTS Mastertune, during the V-tune process, the temps ran upwards of 280. After I loaded the final map, the temps dropped dramatically. well within Normal range

How hard is it to do the V-tune process? I have the TTS Master Tune tuner. Can the V-tune be added?

I am running a map Fullsac set up right now, for no cat, and Fullsac baffels with the heavy breather.
I know it runs much cooler than stock now, and stronger.

610hog · « **Reply #58 on:** May 06, 2009, 11:01:11 PM »

Quote from: Louis on February 02, 2009, 05:02:48 AM

Mike,
To my knowledge there has seldom been any overheating on the Softail or Dyna CVO's. That was usually limited to the Touring bikes, mostly the E-Glides. If your bike is running that hot, you have a mechanical problem there. You should probably try to get a second opinion from another dealer in your area.

Ride safely,
Louis

Mike What state do you live in. I'm from CA.just had my head pipes changed and the bike runs a lot cooler.

nazzz46 · « **Reply #59 on:** September 02, 2010, 05:28:02 PM »

Quote from: timo482 on April 20, 2009, 12:12:14 PM

i have the fan on mine - if the temp sensor is not close enough to the head the blasted thing will never come on. for instance if you have a se air cleaner it wont hold the temp sensor close enough to ever come on... found this out with my 88. - had to make a spacer to hold the sensor close to the head.

on my 96" with a police air cleaner it holds the sensor about 1/16" from the head and the fan does come on and stays on when its hot - cools the engine right down.

it would be much better if the computer would turn the fan on rather than a seperate sensor - but in the absense you have to pay careful attention to keep the sensor close enough to the head.

to

Timo what type of fan do you have on your bike? is it the harley parade module or an after market ? thanks

Author Topic: 2009 cvo 110 overheating problems (Read 26166 times)