Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[jettjocky]

yes to both, I'm not having any problems, I just am doing these mods to hopefully insure I don't,

[Geothermal]

The pipes are Vance Hines Big Radius.
Yes it has a race tunner and no they didn't shave the heads.

Mike 

[LarryB]

when I did my TTS Mastertune, during the V-tune process, the temps ran upwards of 280. After I loaded the final map, the temps dropped dramatically. well within Normal range

[ragrep]

Larry-

I have a couple of questions: What's  considered normal temps on the 110's: Oil Temp & Cylinder Temp? How are the temps measured: with what device? Where on the engine are they being measured- for example: if using a laser pyrometer are you shooting at either side of the spark plug, or somewhere else? 

[LarryB]

When I shoot the temp, I pull the dipstick out and shoot the oil itself. As far as the NORMAL temps, 230 is a good number to shoot for. During slow moving events, rallies, parades, it will shoot up to the 260 or so range, but if you run full synthetics this won't be a problem.
I do not have a temp gauge in the dash, but do use the temp, level, dipstick.
Certain things that cause high temps are, too lean, obstructed air flow, i,e, A/C, Cats, restrictive mufflers.
Also the Spark plug temps has an effect.

[miker]

Larry-

I have a couple of questions: What's  considered normal temps on the 110's: Oil Temp & Cylinder Temp? How are the temps measured: with what device? Where on the engine are they being measured- for example: if using a laser pyrometer are you shooting at either side of the spark plug, or somewhere else? 

I use a device similar to this one...I try and measure on the rear cylinder just aft of the spark plug..
I have metal tempratures of 340-380 degress with oil temperature of 260..This is after flogging the bike hard, 2 up, in stop and go traffic.  It is a stock 09cuse4 110 with Mobil 1 V twin...Oil temp of 270+ and metal temps of 380+ with Synlube by the way.

Our TC 88 cube dyna runs lower oil temps in the 240's but metal temp is similar.  I have a D&D fatcat with quiet baffel and a tuned map planned for the 5k servcie interval..We'll see.  My 07 110serk ran oil in the 240's with metal temps in 320-340 but afr was 13.5 across the board.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=823

[ragrep]

Thanks Larry & Mlker-

Head Temps: I tried to shoot either side of the sparkplug to get an average and got 340+/- metal temp on the rear cylinder and around 300+/- on the front cylinder. This was after 5 minute idle warm up, and a 20 minute pounding. I had just installed a PC5 tuner, non-cat header- 2" fullsac baffles.

Oil temps:  I've tried shooting the oil from the filler opening  as well as the mount on the oil filter cooler adapter, and front of the pan to get an average. Oil temp was around 240 degrees. 

[miker]

Sounds good! At least when we all have similar numbers the data can mean something.  What kind of motor oil?

I did put in the oil temp dipstick and check it for temp only at idle after a beating...

I'll post here after I pipe and tune but I will also switching to redline 20-60 wt synthetic motor oil too

[jettjocky]

From what I have read 230 is NOT a good temp to "shoot" for that is the main reason the rear head gasket fails near the oil return hole.  With the installation of two ten core Jagg coolers & some other mods I am  shooting for 210 to 220. 

[miker]

Below 212 you do not get the condensate out of the oil, not good...

230 is fine for an air cooled motor...Or has been for my last 6 HD's

There are also sulfur radicals (SOx) that can degrade oils properties but will be driven off with temps over 220...

For another bit on metal temps, my 1935 flathead runs rear cylinder metal temperature of almost 400 degress F.

If you require a low oil temperature for comfort level, by all means achieve it..

Will the coolers have fans on them as the circulating coolers only deliver when moving along? 

[jettjocky]

Each to his own, HD says 230 is fine you are correct, but the problems these motors are having says NO, your last 6 HDs were not 110s, with oil return line problem, the  wise tail about 212 is just a wise tail, water naturely seperates from oil even at room temp, @ 185 (the temp at which the themo opens) any water is cooked off, again these motors are having problems because of HEAT, that's the reason for the limp factory 9.2 compression, the rear cylinder turn off etc. etc. cooling the oil as much as possible is the only savior,

[miker]

My last HD was a 110 and I went a bought another. 

I tuned my 07 serk(110) to a pretty flat afr(13.5, mostly) but did not advance the timing, to keep it cooler to 230-240ish and had no problems with the barrels, the crank though made me worry. 

I would not do cams..to much ommph and I think these cranks spin......That is no wives tale.
As some of our members can unfortunatley attest to this. 

I heat all the lube oil tanks at the power plant I work at as a staff engineer to 185F even when the units are not operating, to keep water from entraining atmosphericially. 

Please keep in mind pressure changes the properties of water. 

I have only assumed that the 110's jug issues were poor quality and design, just like the flexi-crank issue?
Some 96 motors have had the same problems as well...

Years ago, I had 96 inch shovelhead from hell,  I swear it ran about a brazillion degrees and all I had with it was the oil pump leak like all good HD's..

So are you putting electric fans on these coolers too?  I'd like to see some pictures when you get a chance to post!  Best of luck

[LarryB]

this is starting to sound like a cooking thread

[miker]

A little wedge of lemon?

[ragrep]

Miker- Im still running the Syn3 oil that came in the bike- Im only at 450 miles on this one- I will also switch to the redline 20-60  when I do the 1000 mile service- I use the 20-60 in my hi-comp bikes- seems to quiet the top end and hold up to the heat very well.