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[REGGAB]

Terry used to do these step-by-step installations with pictures.  I haven't seen one on here for Heat Demons yet, so figured I'd put one together during an installation and post it, so everyone knows...........it IS NOT that difficult or involved.  In fact, it is quite alot of fun.
Not long ago, Scott (sadunbar) listed a set of Heat Demons for sale on this site.  I guess I lucked up and got to it first.  As one individual put it, it was "$90.00 pure profit" for him, since he got a double shipment of Heat Demons, but for me, it was a set of Heat Demons as much as $50 less than some places sell them........and a really fun mod for the FLHR.  I took the day off today, and decided to enjoy some time in the garage installing the Heat Demons.  So here we go.  Here's a picture of everything that comes in the Heat Demons kit.

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Here's a "before" picture of the FLHR.

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On the J&S Jack, battery disconnected, windshield off, and probably over protected, but I recently learned this lesson the hard way.   

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Right grip removed.  Don't forget to stick something like a popsicle stick between the brake lever and the reservoir mount, so you don't break the brake light switch upon reinstall.

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Left grip removed.  This took some "doin'."  It was on there.  Ended up heating it with a heat gun and twisting it off.  Finally broke loose.  Note the green mark on the bar.  That is so I know how far to shove the grip back on when it came time to reinstall.

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You'll need to step drill a 5/16" hole in the bar on the left side for the controller and power wiring.  I started at 3/32" and worked my way up to 5/16".  Then I deburred using a dremel with a stone tool.  Hole needs to be in the outer edge of the wire crease as shown.

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Kit comes with a plastic snake to help thread the right side grip warmer wiring to the left side.  You gotta hold your mouth right to get this thing through the bends in the bars, but it isn't too bad...........just crank the tunes, grab a beer, and have fun with it.  Be sure the end of the snake that has the hole in it comes out the right side of the bars.

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Put the yellow and white wires from the right side grip through the hole in the end of the snake and carefully pull the wires through the bars.

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Figured this would be a great time to do a clutch, throttle, and idle cable lube, so I pulled out the INOX and made it happen.  For cable clutches, I put the collar back together, stick a piece of PVC through the hole, hold the clutch disengaged, and squirt INOX into the cable housing.

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After you've lubed your cables, insert the right grip warmer into the bar and reassemble the right grip.

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Next, insert the supplied rubber grommet into the 5/16" hole you made in the left side of the bar earlier.

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Then thread the four wires of the controller and power cable through the grommet and out the left end of the bar.  Helps to do this one wire at a time.

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This part was simple.  Trim the protruding wires to 4 inches or so.  Using the supplied telephone wire splices, match up the colored wires.  Five splices total.  Green and red are two wire splices.  Yellow, white and black are three wire splices.  Shove the ends of the wires into the telephone splices, and squeeze them with a pliers until dielectric grease comes out.  Tug gently to ensure security.  Wipe off the grease.  Too easy.

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Gather the wire and splices inside the left grip warmer and shove the grip warmer inside the bar, pulling the power cable as you shove the grip warmer into the bar.  Now is a good time to check your work.  Attach the power cable to a 12VDC power supply (battery) and turn on the switch on the controller.  Be sure it steps through 4 levels, the lights indicate accordingly, and the grips get warm.  Press & hold the switch and be sure it will dim for night riding.  Press & hold it again to make sure it will return to bright setting.  Turn off the controller.  Disconnect power supply.

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Mix the supplied epoxy and apply to the inside of the grip.  Slide the grip onto the bar and reassemble the switch housing.