Topic: New Engine Break-in Regimen (Read 2094 times)

vtyanqui · « **on:** March 05, 2009, 03:15:58 PM »

Hey Guys – The following is what my Dealer suggested as the new engine break-in. Is this standard or do you folks have other break-in schedules. Please advise.

BREAK - IN

FIRST 50 MILES - - - - - Keep under 2,500 rpms using the following criteria.

         - - - - 50 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 55 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 50 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 55 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 60 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 55 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 60 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 65 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
          - - - - 60 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
         - - - - 65 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
          - - - - 70 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)
- - - - 65 mph for 10 minutes (6th gear)

AFTER 50 MILES - - - - - Keep it under 3,500 rpms

At 200 MILES - - - - - - Run a normal pace don't race it

At 500 MILES - - - - - - Run up the rpm’s but don't red line

Highwaystar · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2009, 05:17:57 PM »

Up and down the RPM to 2500 with a light throttle. The cam needs time to break in and the rings like loading and unloading. Never use 6th and never lug. Heat cycles of 1/2 hour help keep ring temp down. In learned from some top engine builders and racers. Every one has special break procedure. All I can say is that I have raced Bikes for 20 years and had some wicked fast street bikes that I broke in less than 100 miles!

Indenial · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2009, 05:24:17 PM »

Highwaystar, explain more about the heat cycles of 30 min. You mean ride for 30 min and stop and let it cool off? Seems like it would take forever to reach 500 miles. Thanks

RickC · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2009, 05:47:50 PM »

Try this on for size: Motoman's Break-in Secrets

Motoman bucks conventional wisdom regarding easy break-ins... but he's got the evidence to prove that it works. Broke in a high-compression build with a high-lift cam, head work, gear-drive and big bore cylinders/pistons on my '05 FLTRI using his techniques. Ran like a scalded dog...

ryr8828dj · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2009, 05:49:06 PM »

Kind of odd they would tell you "6th gear"! All of my research has shown not to use 6th at all until break in is done. Sure don't want to lug it.

vtyanqui · « **Reply #5 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:14:59 PM »

Rick – just two questions did you break in your 09 SERG using Motoman’s Break-in regimen and would you do it again with another new engine?

vtyanqui · « **Reply #6 on:** March 05, 2009, 06:18:21 PM »

Highwaystar – Understand, do not use 6th gear. Could you please address Indenial’s question regarding 30 minute heat cycles?

RickC · « **Reply #7 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:18:10 PM »

Quote from: vtyanqui on March 05, 2009, 06:14:59 PM

Rick – just two questions did you break in your 09 SERG using Motoman’s Break-in regimen and would you do it again with another new engine?

Motoman says the most important part of the break-in is the first 20 miles. When I picked my bike up it already had 10 miles on it. So, I used his techniques on the 30-mile ride home. It seems to be running well... smooth... good torque and HP...

Yeah, I'd do it again. His logic makes a lot of sense to me. If you look around on his site, he shows you pictures of pistons -- clean as a whistle -- taken out of racing motors after *lots* of miles that were broken in using his technique. Right next to those pistons, he has pistons -- black and carbon-coated -- out of engines that were broken in the "easy" way.

Like I said, it just makes a lot of sense to me.

GregKhougaz · « **Reply #8 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:22:45 PM »

Quote from: RickC on March 05, 2009, 05:47:50 PM

Try this on for size: Motoman's Break-in Secrets

Ditto.

Used this on last three bikes. Most important, it makes sense.

HDBaggerDave · « **Reply #9 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:26:11 PM »

Good info Rick and timely too! Got the first real ride in today. Looks like tomorrow will be even warmer.

Highwaystar · « **Reply #10 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:34:23 PM »

Ring temp is the main killer of an engine that will make power long term. Cylinder walls have a honed cross hatch needed for "wearing in" the rings for a desired seal. The better the parts mate- the more power. Rings have a temper and can be damaged with heat and too much RPM. Long stroke motors increase the possibility of over heating rings because the piston travels up and down the bore much quicker than a short stroke motor. You need to get it scuffed in with short cycles, low RPM, and easy up and down loading to get the rings to work off both sides of the ring groves. Complete cool down between cycles is also important. A motor broke in the right way will rev and last.

tlr · « **Reply #11 on:** March 05, 2009, 07:56:42 PM »

just so i am clear on what to do. as an example, run her hard in 2nd gear and then without shifting up pr down let the engine slow her back down and then repeat in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. Is that right. Thanks

Highwaystar · « **Reply #12 on:** March 05, 2009, 08:34:59 PM »

Go up and down slowly and constantly no mater what gear. Just don't piss off the guy behind you. loading and un loading with a light handed throttle is good. Never full throttle or a hard load and don't lug or hold a constant speed

tlr · « **Reply #13 on:** March 05, 2009, 09:20:45 PM »

OK. thank you. I will give that a try. less than 100 miles on her

screem · « **Reply #14 on:** March 05, 2009, 10:41:09 PM »

my 2000 serg...i picked it up at 11:00am..rode it home about 10 miles...loaded it with gear and my wife...and left for a 275 mi ride to daytona bike...65 mph to 85 mph all the way....just didnt hold one rpm for more than 5 mins or so...the motor up an down thru the upper rpm range's....if it is gonna break...might as well be while its under warrenty!!35000 miles later...uses no oil...runs great
Just ride it and enjoy it

Highjagger · « **Reply #15 on:** March 06, 2009, 02:08:30 AM »

Picked it up , warmed the engine up and fired home with nearly full open throttle- only the strongest will survive .
A special break-in-cycle doesn`t make sense in our days , important ia that the engine is warmed up and not still cold .

2018_FLTRXSE · « **Reply #16 on:** March 06, 2009, 03:04:48 AM »

Too late for this... I cruised the 14 mile trip home, let the bike cool down, had dinner, then the wife and I headed out.

56 miles later we were back home... stayed out of 6th only on day one... after that all is out the window...

Time for my 1K service.

Greaseball · « **Reply #17 on:** March 06, 2009, 06:40:07 AM »

I used Motorman's break-in routine when my '07 110 motor was new. That motor never gave me a lick of trouble and it ran very strong

vtyanqui · « **Reply #18 on:** March 06, 2009, 07:54:37 AM »

Thanks guys for your valued inputs. Every day I find out just how important this site is.
Muchas thanks,
vtyanqui

Highwaystar · « **Reply #19 on:** March 06, 2009, 05:49:39 PM »

Piston rings scrub a lot of break in material off the cylinder walls the first 100 miles. It ends up in you filter and suspended in the oil. The break in oil also has assembly grease and various assembly related left overs that are best removed before testing how far the right hand grip turns. Wait till the 1k oil dump

Indenial · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2009, 05:10:51 PM »

So, motoman says to change out the synthetic oil and put in dino oil for breakin. Did you guys do this? Is it worth changing out new oil before breakin?

Highwaystar · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:12:18 PM »

Come on now. Don't drain the synthetic out. Just don't get throttle happy till after the 1K service. You need to get the metal out from breaking in the cylinders before you pound on it!

Author Topic: New Engine Break-in Regimen (Read 2094 times)