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[Bulldog]

I have true duals and power commander and dynoed my bike it runs good but almost out of extended warranty, so I am thinking about doing something else to wake it up a little more. But I definitely don't want overheating, hard starting, or pain in the ass upgrades just to make a few gains?

Thanks

Bulldog 

[Unbalanced]

Bulldog,

There have been some simple upgrades and some more complex upgrades depending what you are seeking.   The hold back to the 103's like you have are the heads and compression.   I would suggest that you try a cam upgrade like the Zippers 575 or the Yuill cam for the 103.  I know porthole just added a cam and a transmission to his bike and other than finding a map i think is very happy with the upgrades.   You might ping Duane.   On the west coast a lot of the guys have gone with the Yuill setup and pipes and are very happy with the build / reliability and results.

If you are interested in going further depdning on where you are from you could consider depending on your riding style some headwork, cam and keeping the compression to say under 10 to 1 and get what you are after.

Another consideration is a complete kit from say a builder like John Sachs here on the Site or Brad Yuill or TMan, Dave Mackie, Cycle Rama,  or Kuryakyn (Mike Roland).

The more power you go after the lower your reliability generally becomes.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Certainly not a big chore to manufacture great reliable power from a 103".
After 4 years of abusive service, one of our clients finally had his 103" tuned at JD's in Bethlehem, PA.
Rolled out 120 square.
Didn't stay up late figuring that combination out. Cake to get those at that power.

[ragrep]

I have 103B motor on a springer. I put the head quarters HQ39 chain drive cam in my 103 and it pulled much better-from the bottom. Rougly 13 lbs better torque- and the curve moved left. Installed were Exhaust cones- and SE heavy breather. No other mods- the numbers with a 2-1 exhaust were 85hp & 101 Ftlbs torque- , base pull was  85hp & 88 Ftlbs torque. These numbers are were pulled on a  EC997a eddy current dyno- not a Dyno-Jet branded and there are differences in the software that calculates the rated numbers. The tuner stated that corrected numbers would reflect 12-15% greater on a Dynojet brand dyno.

[DCFIREMANN]

Bulldog,

There have been some simple upgrades and some more complex upgrades depending what you are seeking.   The hold back to the 103's like you have are the heads and compression.   I would suggest that you try a cam upgrade like the Zippers 575 or the Yuill cam for the 103.  I know porthole just added a cam and a transmission to his bike and other than finding a map i think is very happy with the upgrades.   You might ping Duane.   On the west coast a lot of the guys have gone with the Yuill setup and pipes and are very happy with the build / reliability and results.

If you are interested in going further depdning on where you are from you could consider depending on your riding style some headwork, cam and keeping the compression to say under 10 to 1 and get what you are after.

Another consideration is a complete kit from say a builder like John Sachs here on the Site or Brad Yuill or TMan, Dave Mackie, Cycle Rama,  or Kuryakyn (Mike Roland).

The more power you go after the lower your reliability generally becomes.

I think I must disagree with you on that one Harry. There is a plateau you can achieve before you give up reliability. One of the problems most people have is the way the run the bike once the build is done. Running the engine at max RPM's is one of the killers. Or even worse trying to be the fastest guy on the block. With a good cam with nice easy ramps, good valve springs and compression below 10.2 to 1  free flow A/C non restrictive exhaust and good fuel injection mangement you can build a bike that will be more reliable than the factory 103.

I promise!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Unbalanced]

Mike,

Reading is part of the equation here, but the key word you bounced so nicely around is it says GENERALLY there are exceptions to all of those rules and ways around them.  A knowledgable builder, like those offered above coupled with the right questions and requirements of a builder should allow the avg who wants more, without giving up reliability to get what he wants/needs.  The problem is most guys want to beat their buddies or show you how big their .... motor is vs. building for reliability and a little bit more.   Personally one can never have to much torque, but that is just me. 

[DCFIREMANN]

Mike,

Reading is part of the equation here, but the key word you bounced so nicely around is it says GENERALLY there are exceptions to all of those rules and ways around them.  A knowledgable builder, like those offered above coupled with the right questions and requirements of a builder should allow the avg who wants more, without giving up reliability to get what he wants/needs.  The problem is most guys want to beat their buddies or show you how big their .... motor is vs. building for reliability and a little bit more.   Personally one can never have to much torque, but that is just me. 

Harry you have someone with little knowledge in this subject. Why would you try to baffle him with BS. Give him a straight answer. You (with your knowledge) could have given him a very good build for a fair price. Things like fueling pumps, after market lifters, cams that will not tear up your valve train, TB and so on. I love you Harry but don't feed me that "GENERALLY" BS!!!!! Help the guy out!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[Unbalanced]

Beyond just bolt in cams,

I have done quite a few of them, and the latest on Michelle's pumpkin has 39k mileage since the upgrades and it has no issues, runs fantastic. Bike is about to turn 60k miles.
 
For this build: bought the CNC SE Heads, removed the ramps inside the chamber, swirled them with a multi angle valve job, new springs, stock harley lifters, flat top 10.5 to 1 pistons, screaming eagle head gaskets, a 53 mm hp inc throttlebody, stock injectors and Yuill yb13 gear drive cam.  Yielded 117/115 starts everytime and runs like a raped ape.  The only thing the bike has been down for in 5 years has been the radio replacement and an intake gasket needed replacing. 
If the headwork / compression are on target.  Please take into account that just because you have huge flow numbers doesn't mean you have velocity in the heads.  Hence the comments above to use a good porter and combination.


Flat tops, headwork, Andrews 55g,  9.8 - 10 to 1 compression  I had this in my original 05 SEEG Cherry.  At the time it was a 50 mm zippers throttlebody.

John Sachs did a similiar build for a friend of mine Pete, for his wife's now trike.  At the time it was a roadking.  The bike is super quiet and runs fantastic.

Add each of these with a good tune a decent pipe and you have a happy camper.

[DCFIREMANN]

Beyond just bolt in cams,

I have done quite a few of them, and the latest on Michelle's pumpkin has 39k mileage since the upgrades and it has no issues, runs fantastic. Bike is about to turn 60k miles.
 
For this build: bought the CNC SE Heads, removed the ramps inside the chamber, swirled them with a multi angle valve job, new springs, stock harley lifters, flat top 10.5 to 1 pistons, screaming eagle head gaskets, a 53 mm hp inc throttlebody, stock injectors and Yuill yb13 gear drive cam.  Yielded 117/115 starts everytime and runs like a raped ape.  The only thing the bike has been down for in 5 years has been the radio replacement and an intake gasket needed replacing. 
If the headwork / compression are on target.  Please take into account that just because you have huge flow numbers doesn't mean you have velocity in the heads.  Hence the comments above to use a good porter and combination.


Flat tops, headwork, Andrews 55g,  9.8 - 10 to 1 compression  I had this in my original 05 SEEG Cherry.  At the time it was a 50 mm zippers throttlebody.

John Sachs did a similiar build for a friend of mine Pete, for his wife's now trike.  At the time it was a roadking.  The bike is super quiet and runs fantastic.

Add each of these with a good tune a decent pipe and you have a happy camper.

Now see how easy that was. We are here to keep others from making the same dumb mistakes that we have made in the past. We ( the old timers) know what will and will not work in the CVO motor. The head design has made the EPA and the MOCO happy but not us. We have had to sufffer to make reliable horse power without putting as much money into the motor as we have spent on buying the bike. There are many on here that did some very nice builds without breaking the bank. It is not all about being the fastest but making your bike more enjoyable for you to ride. With the added HP and oil flow and richer A/F comes cooler running temps and a faster and more efficient motor that will out last the factory motor.

Be Safe

THE DAWG