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[Zinister]

I think for now it would just be pipes, a tune, and an maybe a cam. Are my stock pipes allot worse than say the V&H 2-2. I don't mind the way they look as much as they are too quiet.

I'm thinking of buying a fatboy or low rider for the wife. I'm going to get her something 2007 or newer so that means I'm going to hold off on any major investments on my bike for next year. Gotta keep momma happy so that I can waste my money ha ha ha ha.

[Zinister]

Dewey,

I talked to my local dealership about tuning the bike like a friend as had done. The bike is an 08 SE Dyna. He got 114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ. He put a woods cam and cleaned up the heads, said he did nothing more than clean up the casting. He's running V&H long shots and those are way too damn loud!!!!

I was hoping to skip the head work at this time and go with slips ons. I wondered what you thought about Bub 7 slip ons or even the whole 2-2 Bub 7 exhaust. I don't know if there is any advantage to getting the whole system as you said the stock '09 pipes are pretty good.

Dealership offered free dyno tune if I had the cam install done there. Total price for SERT, Wood Cam and install, Dyno tune = $1200.00

[SERK3]

Dewey,

I talked to my local dealership about tuning the bike like a friend as had done. The bike is an 08 SE Dyna. He got 114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ. He put a woods cam and cleaned up the heads, said he did nothing more than clean up the casting. He's running V&H long shots and those are way too damn loud!!!!

I was hoping to skip the head work at this time and go with slips ons. I wondered what you thought about Bub 7 slip ons or even the whole 2-2 Bub 7 exhaust. I don't know if there is any advantage to getting the whole system as you said the stock '09 pipes are pretty good.

Dealership offered free dyno tune if I had the cam install done there. Total price for SERT, Wood Cam and install, Dyno tune = $1200.00

Which Woods Cam did he use? I would also like to get in this same range, Only difference is mine is a 07 110 SE Road King, Not sure if that would make any diff erence or not.

[HD Street Performance]

114 RWHP and 121 RWTQ

OK so is that SAE? I would like to see the dyno and know that the dyno is in fact a Dynojet 250I with a recent calibration and newer Winpep software. That said the shape of the curve is more important not just what peak numbers that are hit. I could get anyone a combo to hit very high numbers but the bike is not going to be a lot of fun to ride especially if it is a bagger.

Don't know anything about the Bubs. I stand firm on Cycle Shacks. They work. Dewey got 95hp and 115tq out of his stock 110 springer with just a TFI to tune it with, those pipes or close, stock mufflers cored and Cycle Shack baffles.

[GtreetSlide]

In my opinion, building a fast harley is no different than building a motor for a race car. You really only have two options; HP or TQ based build.

That said; a good HP motor makes power at higher RPMs because the cams (and everything else) are designed to "anticipate" moving fuel efficiently when the motor is really spinning up. A good TQ motor makes power at much lower RPMs by design. If you are going to use the bike mostly for drag racing, then HP is definitely the way to go, but riding in tight twisties and traffic is gonna make you hate the motor. If you spend most of your time riding at 200-4500 rpms, TQ is definitely the way to go.

Any combination of parts you use are aimed at primarily HP or TQ and some attempt to get a reasonable combination of the two. The Most important part is "HOW you ride" and a "good Balance" of the parts you use. I've seen a lot of diappointed people who combined parts that don't compliment each other.

My advice is; first "pick your Power Range", then do with combinations proven to hit that target... But, even the Best tuner can't get a good tune unless the parts are in agreement...

jimbob

[HD Street Performance]

Want a test of how fun these bikes can be?
Add the torque numbers from 2-4k rpm at 100rpm increments and compare those numbers. Or average them.
I get phone calls every day from guys that swear they want big hp numbers and when they tell me what that means they define high wide torque curves.
I give them that and the HP rides shotgun, it's part of the formula.

[Zinister]

I'm definitely going for the TQ build. That's why I bought a Harley vs a crotch rocket.

I'll get which  Woods cam he wants to use and I'll check on the dyno facts. The place that's doing the work is Clinton Harley in Clinton Iowa. I met the guy with the Dyna and he raced my friend on his tweaked Buell and wasted the Buell. The owner says he can fry the back tire at will when going down the road in town which indicates allot of TQ versus peak numbers.

As always thanks to everyone helping me with the Harley build process. I'm very good at the car building but never had a Harley to play with.

[FLTRI]

If budget is the issue, the CycleShack slipons are the best way to go.
If max TQ and a 2into1 is preferred look, the Thunderheader is the king.
Then there is everything else.
We sell Thunderheaders 10:1 over any other pipe for best performance. Their quality control has improved recently. Better chrome and bracketing.
The Thunderheader is also adjustable for those high overlap cam profiles that creates reversion.
They also have come out with a tru-dual for '09-up baggers with a balance tube hidden between them. We've tuned a couple of these and they work great.
If performance results are important the Thunderheader is a great pipe.
As always, JMHO,
Bob

[L.A.Player]

IMO I think the Thunderheader is a good choice. On my 2006 FLTRI I have Thunderheader slipon's,  HD 95" kit with Headquarters 0034 bolt in cams, SE heavy duty spring and a Direct Link tune. I'm getting 98 ft lbs of torque out of this thing. I'm going to experiment by changing the exhaust to a D&D 2 into 1 Fatcat and see where it takes me. Thats's also a good pipe. Just ask the CVO members.

[Ed Ramberger - One_Screamin_Eagle]

I'm looking at V&H 2-2 Big Radius pipes, a dyno tune (SERT?), and a bolt in cam.

Is this easily doable and does anyone have suggestions on which bolt in cam. This in in a 110B so no high revs, I want power in the cruising RPMs.


Thanks for any ideas and/or suggestions.

Easily doable with a Supertrapp (or other decent exhaust such D&D) and a set of 259E cams.

[Zig]

My local guy has been talking about the SE259 E cams, along with the v&h pro pipe for my 110.  trouble is V&H is talking January b4 they will be ready for the 2010s. Numbers like 110hp/130tq are being thrown about, but I haven't seen the dyno yet. Any experience with this combo?

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Several Wood cams, would take you there.

[SBB]

Numbers like 110hp/130tq are being thrown about, but I haven't seen the dyno yet.[/


I have found the secret to 125 H/P and 135 Torque.
Ask the red bike guys, they been holding back on us.
Take your stock CVO mufflers, powder coat them red, instant 125/135.
The secret is out, red mufflers rule!
But I haven't seen the dyno yet.

SBB

[Zig]

I just added a CR 575 cam, D&D 2/1 pipes and a high flow K&N intake.  No head work, stock pistons, and got 102/123.  Most of the torque is in the 2500-3500 range, so it is very usable power.
Zig

[HDDOCFL]

I just added a CR 575 cam, D&D 2/1 pipes and a high flow K&N intake.  No head work, stock pistons, and got 102/123.  Most of the torque is in the 2500-3500 range, so it is very usable power.
Zig

Zigg do you notice any more engine noise with the cr cam?   Thanks Doc