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[jesse111]

I can't speak for the Fulsac stepped headers, but I do know that the Rineharts were stepped and with those you picked up some higher RPM hp but sacrificed some lower RPM torque over non-stepped headers.  Talking with a few tuners, they've told me this is a typical difference between stepped and non-stepped. 

My research has indicated the same thing. Stepped is a race orientated design. I've read similar things on race car sites as well. Increased HP and very good for high revving needs. I wonder if Fullsac would consider an X pipe but with higher torque capabilities for us lower revving kinda riders. They could call it the X-T pipe.

[jesse111]

Here's an excerpt from hotbikeweb.com...

http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/0805_hbkp_exhaust_systems/buying_considerations.html

If header diameter is too large, exhaust gas velocity will be low, thereby weakening the scavenging wave and reducing its effect during valve overlap. As such, it is important to note that as blowdown pressure declines, there is an increased dependency on the exhaust system to scavenge cylinders of spent exhaust gases. Ideally, you want a balance between backpressure and velocity. Headers made of 1-3/4-inch pipe work well with stock and mildly modified V-Twin engines. To maintain the proper backpressure/velocity balance with a street engine, it is suggested not to use 2-inch diameter or larger header pipes unless your engine is at least 100 cubic inches and preferably larger. But be aware that even in the case of a large engine there are tradeoffs, because a 2-inch pipe will bleed off some bottom-end torque for top-end horsepower. For comparison's sake, to optimize high-rpm power with a 120ci to 130ci race-only engine, you should start with a 3-step straight-pipe design having 2-inch, 2-1/8-inch and 2-1/4-inch pipe diameters, and then tune from that baseline.

Larger diameters and shorter length header pipes optimize high-rpm operation, while smaller diameters and longer pipe lengths favor low-end power.

Although a stepped header generates more low-pressure waves than a non-stepped design, its waves are weaker. Steps help maintain a higher average gas velocity over the total length of header pipe. A stepped header won't necessarily make more power than a non-stepped pipe, but it can broaden the engine's torque curve by widening the scavenging wave's effect, which increases the time of negative depression. This can result in a win-win situation: High torque at low rpm while maintaining high horsepower at high rpm. Since the engine views a stepped header as a tapered pipe, the greater the number of steps in a length of pipe, the greater the taper angle and the stronger the pressure waves. But as the pipe angle increases, the rpm band it affects gets narrower. On the otherm hand, a longer pipe with fewer steps results in a narrower angle, thereby widening the working rpm range but lessening the strength of the pressure wave. Stepped headers are most beneficial when used on large-displacement and/or high-rpm engines.

[jesse111]

Fullsak may be on to something. The 15 degree long slow collector chamber design coupled with the stepped header may in fact increase torque as well as HP providing the best of both worlds. But may also lend itself more towards the high revving engine designs. V&H design appears to have a much shorter collector with a much sharper angle. Based on this article, the Fullsak design may be a better overall performer. Alternatively, V&H no doubt has enormous R&D funds and has probably produced a very well designed and proven system. The non stepped V&H may in the end offer a better balanced torque curve for the everyday driver.

I'd love to see a comparison dyno on a stock CVO with both these systems.

[Fullsac Performance]

Hey Guys!

The new X pipe is a torque monster. Specifically tuned for big fat heavy touring bikes.
I cut, welded, and dynoed this thing to death. Thats why there are two versions. "A" for 96". And "B for 110" motors
It will out perform an OEM non cat headpipe accross the board.
Dyno charts will be coming in the next few weeks.

Steve George

[WestCoastRuss]

Hey Guys!

The new X pipe is a torque monster. Specifically tuned for big fat heavy touring bikes.
I cut, welded, and dynoed this thing to death. Thats why there are two versions. "A" for 96". And "B for 110" motors
It will out perform an OEM non cat headpipe accross the board.
Dyno charts will be coming in the next few weeks.

Steve George

B Version stock number?  Availability?  Shown on the website?

[HOGMIKE]

B Version stock number?  Availability?  Shown on the website?

See Reply #18 for a pic, rest of your questions can be addressed to Fullsac. Ask for Steve

info@fullsac.com
928.505.2912

[Fullsac Performance]

B Version stock number?  Availability?  Shown on the website?

Sorry Russ, the website is lagging. I suck at marketing but I can weld pretty good.
Trying to get all the info and pics for the my web guy to update everything at once.


The 110" B version is in stock and available. CVO member price is 431.00

Thanks for your interest.

Steve George

[Old Harley Dude]

Steve, great job on the headpipe.  I have been wondering if you have any tuner maps using the new headpipe and other muffler setups with it?

[infanterene]

Will the stock heat shields work with the fullsac headers?

[Old Harley Dude]

infant,

I read in a earlier reply or thread that the OEM shields fit, in fact I think the headpipe was designed so they would.

[Myko]

The stock shields do fit. I put the pipes on my SESG. They look good, but due to weather I haven't been able to get a good pic yet of the pipes with shields on.

[Felos]

This Spring, I bought a 2005 FLHTCSE2 with Reinhart tru-duals.  It had 23000 miles on it.  The header from the rear cylinder has an "L" shaped tab that attaches to bracket on the starter.  Mid-summer, I noticed the weld on the tab had cracked and I had an exhaust leak which I had re-welded.  On a whim I sent an email to Reinhart and explained the problem and the mileage on the cycle.  I received a box from them with a new pipe and starter bracket.  The new pipe mount has a "L" tab held on by a pipe clamp instead of a weld.  There was no email or information in the box and no bill.   I have a friend who has a Road King who had the same problem. He notified the company and received a new header pipe.  I don't know if this is typical customer service for this company; however, I was impressed.

I do like the sound of the Reinharts.

[KODAGRIN]

Is it true that true duals on the new FL bikes may cause a heat problem for some electrical component now placed behind the rear cylinder ?

[jesse111]

Hey Guys!

The new X pipe is a torque monster. Specifically tuned for big fat heavy touring bikes.
I cut, welded, and dynoed this thing to death. Thats why there are two versions. "A" for 96". And "B for 110" motors
It will out perform an OEM non cat headpipe accross the board.
Dyno charts will be coming in the next few weeks.

Steve George

I am VERY interested in those dyno charts. Your offer of the two sizes has intrigued me from the start. There is no way one pipe can work with both engine sizes efficiently. Your A and B pipe selection instills confidence as regards performance. I see your main competitor might possibly but the V&H power duals. If you did a side by side dyno and outperformed them, I believe you'd have to expand your company.

I have a strong suspicion I'll be ordering a set of Fullsak X Pipes in my very near future.  

[bikerboy53]

Is it true that true duals on the new FL bikes may cause a heat problem for some electrical component now placed behind the rear cylinder ?

I haven't heard of any failures yet, but on 2009 & 2010 bikes the coil is located in front of the battery and directly behind the rear cylinder. The rear pipe of most "true dual" style pipes run very close to this area and likely increase the temperature of the coil. Most electrical devices live a shorter life when they have to function in high temperature environments. Maybe (hopefully?) the MoCo has "ruggedized" the coils to allow them to last longer at higher temperatures. If the coil dies though, you'll be walking.