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[dep47]

Ok, I had the PC v installed and the bike dyno tuned, runs great, but I wonder would I gain anything by adding the auto tune module now?

[Diamondback]

 

Probably, because the autotune will continually adjust the tune for gas, altitude, humidity, temp and other variables.

 

[Badger Mike]

No check engine light on the bike, the only open code was the o2 heaters low/open.  We're still working on building a base map, but with only 450 miles on the bike, I need to put some miles on it before we can do more work on using the trims that the computer is giving us.
It is cool to see how the system works with the bike, and makes the adjustments on the fly. 

I'm a bit dissapointed in my dealers explanation of the cruise control.  I have to run the bike at around 3000 RPM's for the cruise to work properly, seems a bit high to me.  I would think that the cruise should work down to about 2500 RPMs at cruising speed

[Wheelsnkeels]

First, the O² sensor open code is due to the fact that the O² sensors are disconnected from the stock harness.  It shows up as a historical code, but I don't believe it keeps the check engine light on ( ).  I don't know of a simple way to eliminate that code, short of reconnecting the sensors.  What does DynoJet have to say about this subject?

Second, did the dealer fix your cruise control, or just blow you off after they found the code? the two aren't related, and plenty of folks with PCV's are using their cruise on a daily basis.

Third, if you have the time and patience to build a base map using just the auto tune, you can do so without a dyno.  The dyno just makes development of a good base map a lot quicker.  And even though these things are called auto tune (all the various brands), they still need a good base map to work best.  And be aware that "autotune" doesn't fix the stock ignition timing issues; it makes no timing changes.


Jerry

With Autotune the original O2 sensors are replaced with the supplied Bosch wide band O2 sensors. They are not "unplugged" as in some other setups.

As far as not having enough miles it has been found that you should apply the variable as you go. It is preset to only allow for a 20% auto adjust. What some have done is set the adjustment in the beginning to allow a 50% adjustment and then after some miles reset it back to 20%. this allows it to tune faster. The main reason for the lower limit is  so it doesn't over compensate for equipment failure like a bad head gasket.

[grc]

No check engine light on the bike, the only open code was the o2 heaters low/open.  We're still working on building a base map, but with only 450 miles on the bike, I need to put some miles on it before we can do more work on using the trims that the computer is giving us.
It is cool to see how the system works with the bike, and makes the adjustments on the fly. 

I'm a bit dissapointed in my dealers explanation of the cruise control.  I have to run the bike at around 3000 RPM's for the cruise to work properly, seems a bit high to me.  I would think that the cruise should work down to about 2500 RPMs at cruising speed

Your dealer is lying to you (big surprise, I'm sure).  There are minimum and maximum speeds built in to the system (speeds, not rpm), but those minimums and maximums tend to be more along the line of 30 mph and 85 mph (at least for my model year).  What exactly is the cruise control doing, and under what conditions?


Jerry

[grc]

With Autotune the original O2 sensors are replaced with the supplied Bosch wide band O2 sensors. They are not "unplugged" as in some other setups.
............................

I know.  The regular PC setup for sensor bikes uses sensor eliminators that plug into the harness to the ECM to fool it into thinking the AFR is OK.  However, according to the directions for the AutoTune I read some time back, the new wideband sensors aren't plugged into the stock sensor harness that feeds data to the ECM, they are connected directly to the autotune module using the new harness that comes with the kit.  So as best I can tell, the ECM thinks there are no sensors and that's why you get an "open circuit" code.  DynoJet also mentions that there will be a code set, but the light won't come on, in their rather sparse instructions.


Jerry

[Diamondback]

 

My PC V with autotune came with plugs to plugin into the harness to eliminate this problem.

 

[Badger Mike]

The mechanic is still working on applying the trims as we go, it's a function of me getting out to ride and then back to his shop to make the adjustments.  We're still not where we need to be at the low end torque, but the bikes pulls well at the mid range, so I think we're getting close to establishing a good base map that will pull what we can out of the engine.

As far as the cruise control, I'm going to call the dealer again and ask what if any ideas they have.  The crusie disengage reason of Tansmission in too low of a gear or in nuetral doesn't make much sense   It's disengaging while I'm riding down the highway at 70-75 mph in 6th gear.  Their "fix" was to run the bike in 5th gear at that speed, and so far that seems to have solved the problem, it's not disengaged since, but I'm running the bike at 3000 RPM, where I would rather run at around 2500 RPM.

[Steve Cole]

Cruise control works in 3rd gear and up with I believe a low speed cutoff of 40 mph. Have you changed the primary gears at all?

[HOGMIKE]

Cruise control works in 3rd gear and up with I believe a low speed cutoff of 40 mph. Have you changed the primary gears at all?

Cruise works from 30 to 90 plus or minus.
And there are times when it "deactivates" such as engaged and rolling on the throttle 10 MPH above the setting.
There may be some leeway to these speeds, and I think if you change the settings in the ECM with speedo calibration (VSS) or primary gear ratio settings, this would affect the cruise settings.
Just a guess here, but what do you think???
 

[Badger Mike]

To my knowledge the primary gears have not been changed.

[HOGMIKE]

The mechanic is still working on applying the trims as we go, it's a function of me getting out to ride and then back to his shop to make the adjustments.  We're still not where we need to be at the low end torque, but the bikes pulls well at the mid range, so I think we're getting close to establishing a good base map that will pull what we can out of the engine.

As far as the cruise control, I'm going to call the dealer again and ask what if any ideas they have.  The crusie disengage reason of Tansmission in too low of a gear or in nuetral doesn't make much sense   It's disengaging while I'm riding down the highway at 70-75 mph in 6th gear.  Their "fix" was to run the bike in 5th gear at that speed, and so far that seems to have solved the problem, it's not disengaged since, but I'm running the bike at 3000 RPM, where I would rather run at around 2500 RPM.

Curious.
I know I have run my cruise at about 30 MPH and as low as 1800 RPM in both the '09 and '10 bikes.
Is there a way for you to go back to "stock" ecm and see if  your cruise works normally?
I'm not sure if it's that easy for you to switch from "stock" to "tuner" with what you have.
Just a thought.
 

[Badger Mike]

I can very easily unplug the PCV and run stock, that may be next in the process of elimination.  I'm not sure how the tuner would affect the cruise control?

[HOGMIKE]

I can very easily unplug the PCV and run stock, that may be next in the process of elimination.  I'm not sure how the tuner would affect the cruise control?

Worth a try! IMO
Otherwise, don't have a clue why you are having these problems.