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[2018_FLTRXSE]

I just got done installing my chopped touor-pak and the lid spoiler...

Used the 4 pin Deuscht connector according to instructions.

After an evening ride we pulled into the carport and I was rockin to some music, so I flipped the ignition to accessory then noted the running light on the tour pak was illuminated.

Anyone else have this issue?... Its ONLY the TP running light.

[Twolanerider]

Something isn't right.  Only light circuit that should be hot inside the tour pak when the switch is in the accessory position is the lid light.  But it's on A+ so is hot all the time.  So the accessory switch function wouldn't make any difference there.

Have you added any aftermarket modules to alter the way the lights work.  Any of the various Badlands modules for example.  In some combinations they can make the lights behave screwy.

When you say tour pak lights only do you mean that literally?  Only the lights in the body of the pak and not the spoiler?  Or all lights on the tour pak?  Sorry but no specific direction that would help you out.  Time to take a meter or test light and start probing to see where the source is coming from.

[Harleypingman]

Try your ACC switch on the fairing cap and see if it turns the spoiler LED on/off.  If so, the Deutsch connector was assemled incorrectly.

This is probably an incorrect statement after checking the wiring diagram in the '04 HD SM--If the ACC switch has no effect on the spoiler LED when the ignition is "on" or in "accessory" setting, the bike's wiring is messed 'cause that's not supposed to happen given the separate circuits for run, brake, and switched power at the accessory connector.



Carl

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Something isn't right.  Only light circuit that should be hot inside the tour pak when the switch is in the accessory position is the lid light.  But it's on A+ so is hot all the time.  So the accessory switch function wouldn't make any difference there.

Have you added any aftermarket modules to alter the way the lights work.  Any of the various Badlands modules for example.  In some combinations they can make the lights behave screwy.

When you say tour pak lights only do you mean that literally?  Only the lights in the body of the pak and not the spoiler?  Or all lights on the tour pak?  Sorry but no specific direction that would help you out.  Time to take a meter or test light and start probing to see where the source is coming from.

My bad... let me be clearer... it is a chopped TP so it only has the spoiler.

It is the TP spoiler running light that is on when the ignition is in accessory.

I dont have the service manual with me here at work, but this is part of why I was confused doing the install to begin with.

The wire codes at the Duescht connector on the bike side do not match the wires on the spoiler side of the connector.

This is the connector:



Color codes are: (Bike side called the P & A connector) has ORANGE, ORANGE/RED, Black, Red/Yellow.

I'm going to double check the connectors according to Harleypingman's color to plug location... but I'm almost 100% sure I did that when I did the install. let you know in a bit.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

.... I'm back!   

Checked the connectors.. all are OK and according to the prescribed instructions.

For the record:

Chamber 1 = blue wire, connects to P&A connector orange/red wire

Chamber 2 = red/yellow wire, connects to P&A connector red/yellow wire

Chamber 3 = sealing plug, connects to P&A connector orange wire

Chamber 4 = black wire, connects to P&A connector black wire

Now... obviously Chambers 2 and 4 are obviously correct.

I assume the solid Orange is full time power for the TP interior light, etc... the orange/red wire appears to be accessory power switched. I'll know more when I get home and have my circuit tester handy.

[Harleypingman]

Hope you figure it out.  There is no "full time" power in the P&A connector; just the run/brake circuits for the spoiler/LED and the switched power circuit controlled by the ACC switch when the ignition is "on" or "accessory."  And the black wire is ground.

Those molded chamber/cavity numbers in the Deutsch connector are hard (for my aging eyes) to see. 

Carl

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Hope you figure it out.  There is no "full time" power in the P&A connector; just the run/brake circuits for the spoiler/LED and the switched power circuit controlled by the ACC switch when the ignition is "on" or "accessory."  And the black wire is ground.

Those molded chamber/cavity numbers in the Deutsch connector are hard (for my aging eyes) to see. 

Carl

Connector cavity markings run in a clockwise circle while looking at the connector from the side the wires plug in.

I need to review the Schematic and probe the wires for correct function, but I believe this is correct (spoiler run light on in acc). I just wanted to know if anyone using the P&A connector has the same issue. This did not happen when I used the "tour-pak" marked connector next to the fuse panel that folks here told me was wrong.





 

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Follow-up:

The Orange/Red wire is sourced from a 15A fuse noted as P&A... it also powers the cigar lighter and subsequently runs up to the dash switches. it is sourced from the accessory side of the ignition switch, so the answer is YES, if you used the 4 pin Deuscht connector and wired it according the instructions, you should have the running light on with the ignition in accessory.

The Orange wire is sourced from the accessory switch on the dash, and is fed by the Orange/Red wire. Only difference is one is switched and one is constant source with the ignition on or in accessory.

[Twolanerider]

Follow-up:

The Orange/Red wire is sourced from a 15A fuse noted as P&A... it also powers the cigar lighter and subsequently runs up to the dash switches. it is sourced from the accessory side of the ignition switch, so the answer is YES, if you used the 4 pin Deuscht connector and wired it according the instructions, you should have the running light on with the ignition in accessory.

The Orange wire is sourced from the accessory switch on the dash, and is fed by the Orange/Red wire. Only difference is one is switched and one is constant source with the ignition on or in accessory.

Good find.  That's goofy, it'd drive me a little nuts seeing the extra lights on in acc'y position, but good find.  Certainly a difference from how they used to be wired. 








I'd change it!!

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Good find.  That's goofy, it'd drive me a little nuts seeing the extra lights on in acc'y position, but good find.  Certainly a difference from how they used to be wired. 








I'd change it!!

Youre telling me! I may try TN's sugestion of utilizing the Y connector tapped into the taillight or fab a jumper harness to the OE TP plug.

[grc]

I must have missed all the previous discussion on wiring the spoiler light, so if I'm out in left field here please excuse my ignorance.

Why not use the connector marked "Tour Pak"?  It's obviously there for a reason, and is used by the factory on bikes equipped with Tour Paks.  If the connector for the spoiler doesn't match up, it would be easy to purchase two connectors (one to fit the "T-P" bike connector, the other to fit the spoiler connector) and make your own little harness to connect just the wires you need (3).  If you made the Tour Pak removable, this would in fact be handy since you could place the connector where you could reach it without removing the seat or side cover, like the one on the SEEG's.  It's just tucked under the edge of the seat above the left saddle bag.


Jerry

[Harleypingman]

My hat's off to your diligent work tracking the wiring issue.  I'm not sure that HD changed the P&A connector wiring from what's on my '04 and shown in the SM's wiring diagrams since the wiring diagrams appear to be the same as what you describe.  I've edited my earlier post suggesting your  bike's wiring was faulty.

My spoiler LED is simply spliced into the tour pak's wiring harness which is in turn connected to the bike's tour pak harness, not the P&A connector so I didn't encounter the issue you raised with your "per the instructions" installation.  My Motolights are wired to the ACC switch/P&A connector switched circuit and the circuit is energized if the ignition is in On or Accessory position and the ACC switch is closed.  Next time I have the seat off I'll try to remember to check the orange/red wire to see if it's energized with the ignition in the Accesory position, though I expect to find that it will be as you found on your bike.     

If you want to change the connector on the spoiler LED to mate with the bike's tour pak harness so the spoiler LED is not on when the ignition is in accessory position, these are the part nos.:

73103-96BK (used to plug into the bike's TP harness). The wire terminals are 73190-96; three required, but they're cheap so buy a couple extra in case you mess up a crimp or two--return the unused ones if you like.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

My hat's off to your diligent work tracking the wiring issue.  I'm not sure that HD changed the P&A connector wiring from what's on my '04 and shown in the SM's wiring diagrams since the wiring diagrams appear to be the same as what you describe.  I've edited my earlier post suggesting your  bike's wiring was faulty.

My spoiler LED is simply spliced into the tour pak's wiring harness which is in turn connected to the bike's tour pak harness, not the P&A connector so I didn't encounter the issue you raised with your "per the instructions" installation.  My Motolights are wired to the ACC switch/P&A connector switched circuit and the circuit is energized if the ignition is in On or Accessory position and the ACC switch is closed.  Next time I have the seat off I'll try to remember to check the orange/red wire to see if it's energized with the ignition in the Accesory position, though I expect to find that it will be as you found on your bike.     

If you want to change the connector on the spoiler LED to mate with the bike's tour pak harness so the spoiler LED is not on when the ignition is in accessory position, these are the part nos.:

73103-96BK (used to plug into the bike's TP harness). The wire terminals are 73190-96; three required, but they're cheap so buy a couple extra in case you mess up a crimp or two--return the unused ones if you like.

Then I need the crimping tool as well.... I have done automotive work for years... but never had to get this far into electrical as far as putting new connectors onto wires then installing them into the new plug

[grc]

Then I need the crimping tool as well.... I have done automotive work for years... but never had to get this far into electrical as far as putting new connectors onto wires then installing them into the new plug

Not exactly "Plug & Play", but there again most stuff with Harley isn't as easy as it should be.  Depending on the type of connectors, it isn't always necessary to buy the high priced crimping tools shown in the manuals.  I've managed quite well with a couple basic stripper/crimper universal plier tools, as long as I took my time and used a factory terminal as my visual reference.  When you buy the terminals and connectors, get extra terminals to practice with.  They are cheap.

After you make your own custom wiring harness and see how easy it is, you'll probably start looking for more accessories to add just so you can make up more custom harnesses.   IMHO, doing it this way beats the old wire taps and splices hands down.  Looks professional and tends to be more reliable as well.


Jerry

[Beemer]

My bad... let me be clearer... it is a chopped TP so it only has the spoiler.

It is the TP spoiler running light that is on when the ignition is in accessory.

I don't have the service manual with me here at work, but this is part of why I was confused doing the install to begin with.

The wire codes at the Durst connector on the bike side do not match the wires on the spoiler side of the connector.

This is the connector:



Color codes are: (Bike side called the P & A connector) has ORANGE, ORANGE/RED, Black, Red/Yellow.  I'm going to double check the connectors according to Harleypingman's color to plug location... but I'm almost 100% sure I did that when I did the install. let you know in a bit.







Hey! Um...that's MY hand!  And I was holding the accessory plug from just in front of the battery for use with things like heated seats/clothing/cig lighter adapter...

it has four pins...kind of funky set-up, one side has red on bottom and black up top and the other side is reversed (found out the hard way) and it only gets power when the key is on or in acc mode as well as you have to have the Acc rocker switch in the tripple tree in the ON position.

Not sure but I think the connector you're looking for is under the left side cover

[2018_FLTRXSE]

Not exactly "Plug & Play", but there again most stuff with Harley isn't as easy as it should be.  Depending on the type of connectors, it isn't always necessary to buy the high priced crimping tools shown in the manuals.  I've managed quite well with a couple basic stripper/crimper universal plier tools, as long as I took my time and used a factory terminal as my visual reference.  When you buy the terminals and connectors, get extra terminals to practice with.  They are cheap.

After you make your own custom wiring harness and see how easy it is, you'll probably start looking for more accessories to add just so you can make up more custom harnesses.   IMHO, doing it this way beats the old wire taps and splices hands down.  Looks professional and tends to be more reliable as well.


Jerry

I've always used weathertite connectors for my automotive stuff. but pirated the pigtails and spliced them in to make my own stuff... in fact, that is how my light harness is setup on my fatboy... quick disconnect for everything!

[Harleypingman]

This link may be useful for crimping information. The crimp tool is available from on-line vendors for about $30 and has been fine for my purposes:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.../matenlok.html

I bought the BCT-1 for $25 plus a reasonable amount for shipping from these folks:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.co...cts.asp?cat=53

Another crimp tool that will work, but isn't quite as easy to use as the BCT-1, is the Philmore WS-26 for $9.99 at Fry's Electronics.

[2018_FLTRXSE]

This link may be useful for crimping information. The crimp tool is available from on-line vendors for about $30 and has been fine for my purposes:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.../matenlok.html

I bought the BCT-1 for $25 plus a reasonable amount for shipping from these folks:

http://www.greatplainselectronics.co...cts.asp?cat=53

Another crimp tool that will work, but isn't quite as easy to use as the BCT-1, is the Philmore WS-26 for $9.99 at Fry's Electronics.

Thanks for the tips!