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[63SSRagtop]

There are a couple of in depth threads on the forum but it's not just the belt that limits ya, they have the kits, but they usually are pricey as hell and require a new swing arm and fender for clearance..
It can be done easily as long as money is no option, but i dont have that it like that.. lol   

 

[hdfxr3]

Yes, photo posted is of my fxr3 with the 150 and smaller belt and correct pulley. hope your combination works out!

[63SSRagtop]

Yeah i measured the bolt holes and they are johnny on the spot so it should be the right one.. i just wasnt aware that they came shiny to actually match the rim.. bizzare..

Getting the rest of the material together to go ahead and do the 10k, tire change, cartridge emulators.. Would like to do some mini apes while i'm at it but i don't think the fundage will allow it..

[ltank]

I understand that the narrow belt is needed to run a 150 tire for clearance on the left side. But for me the questions are about the axle spacers and fender to tire clearance. As far as I know my axle spacers are are correct but there seems to be more space between the tire/fender on the left side than the right side. Is this normal ?  If not then my rear tire is not centered in the frame? For me to get the same space between the tire/fender on both sides the spacers will need changed. Reversing the spacers right/lleft will not work. Now I am really confused The belt tracks good, the bike travels straight when no hands on the handlebars.
You guys never mentioned any thing about tweeking the rear axle spacers. Please help!
Thanks
Ltank

[FXR2evo99]

Itank it is normal that the tire does not center into the frame, and that is because of the caliper on the right side...

As long as your belt is not rubbing the left side of the tire, and your tire isn't in contact with the left side of the fender or your right side of your tire is not in contact with your right side of your fender you are good to go.

It does NOT tract within the fender in a center position.

You could always take a caliper and measure the difference between both distances on each side of the fender and calculate adding more length to say the right side spacer to see if that would give you more space on the right side and less space on the left side.  You would also need to make a thiner spacer to add to the left side....i would leave your OEM spacers alone and have a machinist start from scratch as to what you wish to add to the right and remove from the left as then you have a reference point to go from.

But as I have said the reason it does not track in the fender from a center position is because of the brake caliper on the right side. 

All the narrower rear wheel sprocket allowed for is more room for a wider tire....

Just make sure the width of the tire isn't going to hit any bolts/nuts on the inside of your strut, which means that you might consider reversing said strut bolts using button head screws to allow for a smoother finish inside the fender and using more decorative nuts on the outside of the struts if you reverse the direction of the bolts from inside to out verses outside to in, if that makes sense....

I am running an AVON VENUM tire on my rear right now that is about a 143mm wide even though it is suppose to only be 140mm wide tire, and really it is wide enough....and that took some work to get it in there properly but that is also running the OEM 1 1/2" belt..

I bet it looks "visually" like eye-candy to be able to get that 150+mm (depending upon actual size) stuffed into that rear fender....

Regards,

Tim

[ltank]

OK Great Thanks but I have one more question Really! using the wider tire and the narrower rear belt. The stock belt guards will need to be narrower to clear the fender?
I have 130mm and the lower belt guard is very very close to the wheel on the left side. there is more room on the top belt guard. So far there is the part numbers for the narrower pully, then some new spacers, fender/rail bolts.
 I have 30k miles on my FXR4 5k miles from the new S&S V111 Evo motor with the original belt. I doing my homework to go wider when my belt bites the dust. I jsut hope that the narrower belt is strong enough. I know stock belts can go 100k miles but I don't know about it being 12 years old and having 116 HP / 122 Ft. lbs. of torque.
Thanks,
Ltank

[FXR2evo99]

'....5k miles from the new S&S V111 Evo motor with the original belt. I doing my homework to go wider when my belt bites the dust. I jsut hope that the narrower belt is strong enough. I know stock belts can go 100k miles but I don't know about it being 12 years old and having 116 HP / 122 Ft. lbs. of torque....'

I about spit at the screen when I actually read that you have 116HP and 122 FT LBS of Torque on an FXR4. 

I am surprised you aren't converting over to chain for the secondary drive......you have to be taking that front tire off of the ground if you aren't careful with that much power if you let out the clutch too quickly....

I have no specific reference for you as to the length of time a narrower belt will last with such a TORQUE MONSTER as that....and you can forget about the gearing issue on that bike....well wait a minute on second thought you should change your gearing....LOL to 3.36:1, oh my goodness....  that would be a beast.

LOL, and I am over here considering 84 HP and 94 Torque....laughing....scratching my head....it's a good thing you have the DUAL DISCS set up on that beast.....what did that engine cost by the time you purchased it and installed it?

You have equivalent to a 107" set up that guys are putting into their touring twin cam framed bikes in that FXR frame. 

I AM STILL LAUGHING......THAT'S A BEAST!!!!!

I can imagine sitting at a light looking over at your buddy giving that thing full throttle and standing there while the BIKE shoots between your legs and your just standing there.....LAUGHING.....

Ok going back to corner now, I have NOTHING further to say about my bike.....

Regards,

Tim

[63SSRagtop]

If anyone is interested the kit i had above never got installed and is up for sale!  Ended up having to buy a 140 tire for a quick trip to California and this pulley (with the correct belt inlcluded) has gotta go! Also selling my Kuryakyn 9068 set of forward controls that are still in the box.. thanks!

[TLS105]

^ PM Sent

[ltank]

Hi Tim
   The motor was $4,550 on sale no tax plus S/H 200 total $4,750. The shop charged me $500. to remove old motor and install the new one. Set up everything. Then I started breaking in the motor during a mild Louisiana winter. Allowed proper warm up and S&S proceedure the weather did not allow any heat issues. Used HD 20-50 for breakin, Then changed to Mobile 1 20-50.Now I have over 8,000 miles since Christmas. Even in 95 degree weather, typical 250 mile ride the motor oil average 175-190 degrees. I do have a Jag 10 row Oil cooler with a Dyna thermostat/oil filter combo. Gas milage average is at 45 MPG if normal riding then changes to about 36 if I let it Rock a bit. June 22nd my bike will be done with all my gearing changes 3.4 to one plus the Primo-Rivera Over Drive gearset  gives me 3.4 (5th) and  6th gear is 2.924 (3.4 x .89) Barnett Scorpian Clutch
I had custom Stainless Steel (heavy guage automotive) 2 into 1 exhaust  made in Tennesse and a local shop made stepped headers weled up brushed 14 guage S.S.
One of a kind exhaust.Custom perfect fit my this my motorcycle. If i am going to spend a grand on pipes why not get some thing different that really works. Stepped for the upper RPM and Collector for the lower RPM. Collectors turned a golden bronze color. Thanks for all the help with the number crunching of the gear ratios.
My new poject is installing a Dyna 49mm MidGlide front end. I wonder what mechanical joys await me!!!
Thanks,
Ltank