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[doubledown]

Steve from Fullsac Performance sent me a 30 tooth trans gears and -1 tooth belt. I had it installed yesterday, It is perfect for my riding style, which is 80% with the wife on the back riding narrow two lane roads through farm country, and we have alot of hills. From a dead stop I can now let the clutch out at an idle, bike fully loaded no piston slap or pinging and ease into the throttle. Whack the throttle open and your at 5k in a flash shifting like a dirt bike (okay maybe Im getting carried away) But it pulls MUCH harder than stock!

    If you have the hooligan gene, a little throttle and a whiff of clutch ignites the back tire! It is easy to forget I am on a bagger now.

  RPM...  80mph-3000rpm
             90mph-3400rpm
            100mph-3800rpm

   I was having so much fun I forgot to check the slower speeds. Anyway just thought I would throw it out there in case anyone was on the fence. If your a local rider like me I stay within 150 mile radius this is the ticket.

  The bike is an 09 SERG,
   

[ice6900]

Cool, glad your happy

[RayG]

Did it affect your actual speed as read from the speedometer. If so how did you fix it so it is calibrated?

Thanks

Ray G,

[doubledown]

Ray, I have'nt checked it yet, but it is on my to do list. Actually I never checked the speedo with the stock gearing for accuracy. I'll check it this week.

[RayG]

I sent Steve an e-mail yesterday for general information on your install.  As you mentioned this may be the best way to fix he tall gearing, my bike has always sounded like it was taking off in second gear. Add the throttle lag that I have had since day one and it's something that should run better, much better.

 

[Fullsac Performance]

Steve from Fullsac Performance sent me a 30 tooth trans gears and -1 tooth belt. I had it installed yesterday, It is perfect for my riding style, which is 80% with the wife on the back riding narrow two lane roads through farm country, and we have alot of hills. From a dead stop I can now let the clutch out at an idle, bike fully loaded no piston slap or pinging and ease into the throttle. Whack the throttle open and your at 5k in a flash shifting like a dirt bike (okay maybe Im getting carried away) But it pulls MUCH harder than stock!

    If you have the hooligan gene, a little throttle and a whiff of clutch ignites the back tire! It is easy to forget I am on a bagger now.

  RPM...  80mph-3000rpm
             90mph-3400rpm
            100mph-3800rpm

   I was having so much fun I forgot to check the slower speeds. Anyway just thought I would throw it out there in case anyone was on the fence. If your a local rider like me I stay within 150 mile radius this is the ticket.

  The bike is an 09 SERG,
    

Glad you completed your install. Sounds like it was a big improvement for your riding style.

Here's some tech details for anyone interested.

09-2011 Stock gearing with 32T front belt pulley   2.84
31T front pulley                                               2.96
30T front pulley                                               3.06
To give reference, the 06 and ealier 5 speeds that we all rode for years had a 3.15 final. So even with a 30T front you still have quite a bit
taller gear than the old 5 speeds. I currently have the 2.96 gear in my 107" and will be going to the 3.06.
I spend a lot of time climbing hills, 2 up fully loaded in the 70-80mph zone and like instant acceleration for passing safely.
For you guys that ride heavy, its a huge improvement that starts when you let the clutch out in 1st. If you like doing burn outs too, its a double bonus!
Speedo will need to be calibrated. Very easy to do if you have TTS.

Both the 31 and 32T require a one tooth shorter belt. you can install a 31 with a stock belt, but the adjustment will be completely maxed out.
Not something I can recommend but some still do it.

Cost for a belt and pulley is 275.00. Its about a 2-3 hour job that requires a 2.25" deep socket to remove the pulley.

Steve George

[Keats]

Mine now runs 80 MPH at 3000 RPM
changing to a 30T has to increase the RPM by at 5% or 150 RPM I would think.

[Dan_Lockwood]

The 30 tooth output sprocket requires the full removal of the inner primary cover along with removing the counter sprocket and belt.  Steve, I know you said that this is what most do, what about the Evo Industries 49 tooth driven primary sprocket and ring gear kit.  This comes with new ring gear and sprocket as a unit and a new longer primary chain.

The below information is from their website: http://lzgusa.com/lzusa/evo/catalog2/product_info.php?cPath=95&products_id=330

*********
Evolution Industries Sprocket Ring Gear For 2006 Dyna and 2007 and Later Big Twins.

Stock 46 Tooth 1.352 Gear Ratio **** Evolution 49 Tooth 1.441 Gear

4th Gear 70 MPH @ 3620 RPM **** 4th Gear 70 MPH @ 3816 RPM
5th Gear 70 MPH @ 3042 RPM **** 5th Gear 70 MPH @ 3363 RPM
6th Gear 70 MPH @ 2570 RPM **** 6th Gear 70 MPH @ 2786 RPM
6th Gear 102 MPH @ 3765 RPM **** 6th Gear 102 MPH @ 4028 RPM

Evolution Industries 49 Tooth Sprocket Ring Gear Raises RPM to Eliminate Lugging of Motor And Achieves Maximum Performance.
* Evolution Industries The Innovator and Manufacturer.
* Precision Machined Sprocket and Ring Gear.
* All Evolution Industries Sprocket and Ring Gears Are Manufactured From Aircraft Quality Steel, Heat Treated and Ground Per Evolution Industries Specifications to Insure Maximum Strength. All Are Designed To Fit Stock OEM Chain Baskets
* Includes Mounting Hardware.
* 49 Tooth Kit Includes Custom Primary Chain.
* 49 tooth Not compatible with 6th speed indicator light. Not compatible with cruise control
* Drilling Of Clutch Basket .1750 Deep Necessary With Optional Counter Bore Tool
* Made in USA.
* Sprocket Ring Gear 3 Year Limited Warranty.

EV:1010-1201 Sprocket and Ring Gear Set Replacement 46 Tooth (Stock). Fits 2006 Dyna and 2007 and Later Softail and Dyna.
List Price 420.90

EV:1010-1211 Sprocket and Ring Gear Set 49 Tooth. Fits 2006 Dyna and 2007 and Later Softail and Dyna. Includes Custom Primary Chain.
List Price 515.92

EV:1010-1221 Sprocket and Ring Gear Set 49 Tooth Fits 2007 and Later Touring Models Includes Custom Primary Chain.
List Price 515.92

EV:1011-2011 Primary Chain Replacement For 49 Tooth Kit EV:1010-1211.
List Price 105.92

EV:1011-2001 Primary Chain Replacement For 49 Tooth Kit EV:1010-1221
List Price 105.92

EV:1003-3001 Counter Bore Tool.
List Price 43.92

ORDERING INFORMATION
PHONE 909 594 7969
FAX 909 594 7969
E-MAIL evoind1@billetusa.com
**********

To me this still sounds like the better option as it does all the ratio changes BEFORE the transmission AND it gives an 8% greater torque output for the start as it too runs through the new gear ratio between the clutch and the compensator.  So this should help cranking a bit too.

Less than a year ago the kit was $324.00 and now I see it's increased to $515.92.  Now that's quite an increase, but you still don't have to take off your inner primary to do this.

You guys being the experts in the TTS side of all of our upgrades, I know that the speed can be tweaked for the 30 tooth trans sprocket to get the speedo back on track, but with the clutch basket the cruise and 6th gear light get messed up because of the speedo/rpm ratio changing.  If I were to do the clutch sprocket upgrade from EVO Ind, can the TTS be tweaked to reset the registries for the new higher rpms?

I'm only offering an alternative to the output sprocket and belt change.  The difference between the 49 tooth clutch sprocket compared to the 30 tooth output sprocket is less than 1%.  So either way you're going to see about an 8% increase in rpms in all the gears.

For my use I'm sure that 8% would be a great improvement riding two up over the stock gearing now.  My old '76 FLH 4 speed has a better low gear than the '09 SERG has, but man is it a wide ratio setup.

Thanks for your input on this and your experience in this is highly valued.  I for one have been getting my monies worth from my Fullsac 2" baffles, TTS Mastertune and your stage 1 base map, which I've never even tweaked.  I get great cool running performance and mid to high 40's in mileage.  My bike performs better than my '08 SERK that I had dyno'd with a PCIII and V&H dresser duals and their Oval mufflers.  I like the sound with my stock head pipe with CAT removed and your 2" baffles. 

I'm very happy, all but the low gear in the Cruise Drive 6 speed being too high, hence all the junk listed in this thread...

[Fullsac Performance]

Hey Dan

Performance increase will be the same either way you go.
I personally shy away from the primary gear change for a couple of reason.

The lower primary ratio forces the starter to spin the engine faster putting more load on the starter.
I'm pushing my luck now running 10.2 comp with no releases.
I have a customer who has installed this, loves the new 3.06 gearing, hates the new whine coming from his primary.
We are talking about a larger after market clutch hub sprockets here with the chain taking a slightly different angle across the tensioner.
Definitely more mechanical potential for something to be not quite right.
As for labor: The primary change requires complete removal of the clutch assembly and compensator. Pulling the inner primary is another
5 mintes at most. Removing the back wheel and swing arm to fit the new belt is another 30 minites or so.
One of my biggest concerns was loosing the cruise control. This shouldn't be a problem with the ability to calibrate the ECM with TTS,
but just another one of my fears. I cant live with out cruise.

With the belt pulley and belt swap, we have an OEM belt and Aftermarket pulley. The new 2011 Tri Glide uses a 30T front pulley now too.
With this, most likely its now possible to accomplish the 3.06 final gearing with all OEM parts. I'm sure there are plenty of guys out there
who have done the primary gear change with zero complaints. Maybe I would be one of them too? When I look at the two options,
the belt and pulley swap seemed fool proof with little chance of mechanical complications. Simple stupid always seems to keep my stuff running
in the middle of now where. Except when you run stuff over, that's another story.

Steve George
Fullsac Performance

[Dan_Lockwood]

Hey Dan

Performance increase will be the same either way you go.
I personally shy away from the primary gear change for a couple of reason.

The lower primary ratio forces the starter to spin the engine faster putting more load on the starter.
I'm pushing my luck now running 10.2 comp with no releases.
I have a customer who has installed this, loves the new 3.06 gearing, hates the new whine coming from his primary.
We are talking about a larger after market clutch hub sprockets here with the chain taking a slightly different angle across the tensioner.
Definitely more mechanical potential for something to be not quite right.
As for labor: The primary change requires complete removal of the clutch assembly and compensator. Pulling the inner primary is another
5 minutes at most. Removing the back wheel and swing arm to fit the new belt is another 30 minutes or so.
One of my biggest concerns was loosing the cruise control. This shouldn't be a problem with the ability to calibrate the ECM with TTS,
but just another one of my fears. I cant live with out cruise.

With the belt pulley and belt swap, we have an OEM belt and Aftermarket pulley. The new 2011 Tri Glide uses a 30T front pulley now too.
With this, most likely its now possible to accomplish the 3.06 final gearing with all OEM parts. I'm sure there are plenty of guys out there
who have done the primary gear change with zero complaints. Maybe I would be one of them too? When I look at the two options,
the belt and pulley swap seemed fool proof with little chance of mechanical complications. Simple stupid always seems to keep my stuff running
in the middle of now where. Except when you run stuff over, that's another story.

Steve George
Fullsac Performance

Steve, you make some good sense.

I'm going to do something this winter, but still not certain which direction I'll go.  The 30T and rear belt are looking a lot better now that the EVO Ind sprocket/chain kit has gone up almost $200.00.

With all the talk about the CE Compensator, that might be a good addition while doing a 30T changeover.

Thanks again for your experienced opinion.

[Fullsac Performance]

The SE comp is on my list too with all the good reviews. I will switch to from the 31T (2.96) to the 30T (3.06) at the same time.
I ran really heavy on this last trip and seen some serious headwinds at elevation. Even with the 107" making over 100HP and 110TQ I was in 5th gear
for over a 100 miles during one stretch out side of Cheyene hitting 30-40 MPH winds on Interstate 80. Milage dropped to 30.

Steve

[WVULTRA]

Did the 30t/belt swap last winter along with the SE Compensator, and I now wish I had changed the sprocket much sooner!  Completely changes the character of the 6-speed trans and it's now usable at speeds one would expect; especially riding 2-up!!

On the '07, final ended up 2.97 and 75mph is yielding ~2900rpm.  And the 107" loves it!   

Highly recommended, and as Steve pointed out correcting the speedo is a piece of cake with the TTS.

 

[hard10]

I remember Kenny doing this back in '08. I think he was one of the first to do it on his '07 and has been raving about it ever since. This may be my next project.

[fatboybern]

yes this is definitely on my list im gonna go with the 30 t ill go as low as i can ill also go with the se comp to will im in there already have the chrome inner using the super tuner i looked at a recording and found at 193kph engine is only at 4613 rpm that's not even spinning yet the gearing might have been ok with a 96 over square engine with lots of bottom end torque offers good emissions and good fuel millage and no power but it aint good for a damn near square engine that likes a little higher rpm i find im rattling at low take of speeds and haven't even put all my camping gear and the lady on it yet this bike wont even stay happy in 6th at 120 at under 3000rpm any faster and the tickets are gonna start getting me so 6th is useless right now i also found that the bike goes higher top speed in 5th than in 6th it revs higher it doesn't have any more power to go any faster in 6th ill bet that ill find a higher top speed with the new 30t just cause it will allow it to keep pulling through 6th we will see

[hard10]

yes this is definitely on my list im gonna go with the 30 t ill go as low as i can ill also go with the se comp to will im in there already have the chrome inner using the super tuner i looked at a recording and found at 193kph engine is only at 4613 rpm that's not even spinning yet the gearing might have been ok with a 96 over square engine with lots of bottom end torque offers good emissions and good fuel millage and no power but it aint good for a damn near square engine that likes a little higher rpm i find im rattling at low take of speeds and haven't even put all my camping gear and the lady on it yet this bike wont even stay happy in 6th at 120 at under 3000rpm any faster and the tickets are gonna start getting me so 6th is useless right now i also found that the bike goes higher top speed in 5th than in 6th it revs higher it doesn't have any more power to go any faster in 6th ill bet that ill find a higher top speed with the new 30t just cause it will allow it to keep pulling through 6th we will see

Well, that pretty much sums it up. I think. It's amazing how a thread can just die after a post like that.