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[Dan_Lockwood]

I have an '09 SERG and it's always been very sluggish off the line with more clutch slipping than I prefer to have.

I see that the '07 & '08 FL's have 34-46 primary with 32-66 final drive.

The '09 and newer I believe have the same 34-46 primary, but 32-68 final drive.

Even with my slightly lower final drive gearing, the 32t was too high for my mainly 2-up riding.

I swapped out to the 30t last summer and have had great luck with it.  I did the rear swingarm mod with the welded gussets and the slot ground out an additional .200" which allow the use of the stock belt.

This swap has NOT hurt my mileage and has made my bike with just a set of Fullsac 2.5" baffles and their TTS canned map run SO much better.  My highway rpms have only increase about 300 rpms at any given speed, so that's a trade off that I was willing to make.

I still think that the Baker DD7 would have a better 1st gear and could then utilize the stock gearing a lot better, but for what my mod cost me, it was not even an option to do the DD7.

Hope this helps some of you guys with newer FL's.  You will not regret doing the 30t...

[MrSurly]

I did the 30T mod on my Ultra (2010 CVO) and man, did it make a difference! The bike already ran great with a well modded 113 but the 30T really was noticeable.
I modded the swing arm to allow a little more adjustment room and retained the stock belt.
It is a mod I highly recommend.

[Uncleford]

Hey guys, bringing this back from the dead because I need some help. I modified my swing arm by grinding a little more room so the axle could slide back and I could keep my stock belt (2011 FLTRX/RG) When I put everything back together, I used some 1/4" shims. Initially they hold in place while I apply pressure, however when I get to around 50-60lbs of torque the right shim falls out. I have tried several different times to make it stay but no matter what I do, when the axle nut gets torque the axle moves just enough so the shim falls out. Anyone have any suggestions or had the same problem? I have to be missing something. Thanks..

[Lprez]

Try welding the shim in.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Yes, they have to be welded behind the original axle cam adjustment blocks on the swingarm.

If you didn't weld them in, I can only assume you did not add any gussets on the bottom and back of the swingarm slot.  Or you would have welded in the .25" bar stocks.  With grinding out almost .25" of axle housing, you're getting kind of thin.  I also had to grind out the shock mount to allow the axle cams to clear.  Without the added reinforcements to the outside of the slot, the shock load could become an issue and crack the axle slot housing.

Just think it's a big chance without the gussets.

[moscooter]

 
Here is a shot of the finished product.

[Uncleford]

Thanks for the reply guys. You are correct, I did not weld the shims in. I did the same mod (with shims) on my VROD when I dropped to a 26 tooth pulley from a 28 and never welded the shims in.

With that said, even if I welded the shims in what bothers me is that the tire/axle will not be even if one of them is touching the 1/4" shim and the other one is not. When finally torqued there is about 1/8" of space between the axle cam and shim if I was to guess. Eyeballing the tire (fender is off, bike is torn down) it looks fine.

I was thinking that when I was grinding on the slots that maybe I had taken a little more out of the right side than the left but even if I did that shouldn't matter because with the stock set up there is room behind the axle so you can tighten the belt. So, unless I am thinking wrong, then it shouldn't matter if they were to be a little off.

I have around 35k miles on the bike and I wonder if the axle and cam is worn out of spec. Not sure what else to check. I certainly do not want the bike to track sideways nor do I want to eat up the belt.

Dan, I haven't welded the gussets in place yet because I still working on this issue. Once that is fixed I can move forward. Regardless, my welds will not turn out as nice as the ones in your picture.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Look at it this way, the original cam blocks on the swingarm, staggered or even, they are what they are.

If you add .25" square stock to each one, then they are the same as you had before, but only now .25" further to the rear.

I'm not sure what the .125" is all about.  When I had my .25" bar stock welded into place, my cams were touching both sides and not doing this before, I guess it came out okay.  I can go down the road sitting normally and take my hands off and I can steer the bike or go straight without seemingly leaning too far in either direction and sitting quite straight up for staying down the center of the lane.

I would weld in the gussets AND the bar stock and then worry about any side to side differences.  But at least at that point the cams are identical albeit .25" further to the rear.

Yes, the slot length is not an issue as long as you don't bottom out in the slot prior to being at the correct belt tension.

[MrSurly]

Since this thread has been brought back up, I have a question for those who have done the 30T.
Is it *just me* or, has anyone else broken a belt or two since the 30T?
I used the factory HD TriGlide pulley and factory stock belt(s) on a 2010CUSE5
I don't know if there's actually a causal *link* or just coincidental, but I've broken enough belts that I eventually went to chain(!) but then, I ride the big beast HARD, and it's a bit modified. Wheelies, yes, racing, yes, burnouts, Never.

 Probably not actually related to the 30T, but I am curious if anyone has had the issue.

[jpb]

I have read of many people breaking belts after this mod on other forums.  I was looking to do this as well but after reading about belts breaking I choose to do it in the primary using the 49 tooth clutch basket assembly form Evolution Industries.  It works OK but is has its drawbacks too.  There is also one that changes the front sprocket in the primary.  Game Changer I believe its called.

I'm sure others have not broken any belts, but if it could break it would surely break on me. lol   

[coloradotom]

With all the gee-gaws and doo-dads made for HDs you'd think someone in the aftermarket would just make a 70 tooth cush-drive rear pulley for these. They make 68s so they can do it.

[Dan_Lockwood]

Most of the belt breaking on the 30T sprocket change early on was from aftermarket belts, like the Falcon belt.  I actually have a new Falcon belt in the box from Drag Specialties and held off doing the sprocket change for a couple years.  I finally bit the bullet and did the swingarm mod and used the original HD belt.

From others having the 30T mod and retaining the original HD belts, I've not heard of any complaints about excessive belt breakage.

Being 30T or 32T, the belt for all practical purposes is wrapped about the same for sprocket tooth to belt tooth contact.  There is of course about an 8% increase in lowered gear ratio, but so far on mine I've not had any belt stretch or any indication of belt wear.  I would feel better if we still had the 1.5" wide belts instead of the 1" wide belt, but that's the sacrifice for a wider rear tire.

[MrSurly]

Yes I wish the 1-1/2" Heavy Sidecar belt would fit these!
I learned to avoid aftermarket belts a good longtime ago with an 88" RK. I've only run HD belts and HD pulley on this bike. After seven(!) belts I went chain for sanity's sake. I posted a huge detailed thread over on that technical site.
I really did like the 30T for what it did for the ratio; no doubt most folks don't have any issue. I do tend to push the bike pretty hard.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk have no issues.


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[Dan_Lockwood]

I posted a huge detailed thread over on that technical site.

I thought this was the technical site.

What site and do you have a link?  Just would like to copy the information.

Thanks.

[moscooter]

 

If any of you take note of the response a few posts above that is mine..............from (Photo Bucket),  it seems that after several years of free imaging/posting to forums that many of us have done...........is now stopped dead.  I've googled the above message and several folks indicate that (PB) wants around $400/yr for the continued ability to post stuff to another site.

I have no intentions to maintain my account with them if I am now obligated to pay that kinda sum to post my own pics.

Anybody aware of alternative sources to enable continued displaying of your pics without this kind of "fee" attached.