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[faceracer]

X2   

X3 I would be riding on the cords!!!!

[TN]

08, 140/90/16 avon venom. 9k to 11k rear.

09, 180/55/18 dunlop 408 407. 5500 to 6500 rear. tried the avon cobra with same results.



Ride On


TN

[SBB]

01, 03, 05 rear 8 to 10K
09 rear 16 to 18K
11.5 rear now at 6100 with no wear (and that was following JC and Terrie for 1900 miles)

SBB

[Keats]

New rubber compound that gets good mileage, that the tire manufactors should of done way back.. 

Tire technology has evolved, but it is still about compromises. They have always been able to make a compound that would last an enormous amount of miles, the only problem was that it was so hard that it would not hold a turn or stop.

Just like they can make a real sticky tire, but will not last.

We all want a sticky tire that will last 50K miles, it is just not going to happen.

Even if I could get 30K on a rear tire, what would I do when it rained? (there certainly could not have any tread left)

[cvosjoe]

I do ride a 11 FLHT.
I do raise a little hell, but this tire is hailed by the tire GODS to be great. HAHA
I used to get  more from the old tires that came on my 08 and 07.

Have been getting some great input though.
I do down shift hard in turns and when stopping, old habit.
Like some of the guys say, it is way harder on the tire, I just was expecting more with this new compound.
We will see how the new tire wears, may try using brakes just a little more when stopping, see how that goes.
Anyway, thanks for positive input.
Dave

Dave,
I am not sure that the down shifting is a definitive answer to the premature tire wear. I ride solo most of the times, never do burnouts, ride fairly aggressive through curves and always use downshifting to reduce speed.

09 FLTRSE3 - 41k
16k rear, 19k front
rear brakes replaced at 30k
front brakes original

11 FLTRUSE - 23k
21.6k rear, 3/32 on front
rear and front brakes original

Unless I'm going on a trip that includes a lot of miles I will usually not replace the tires until they hit or are close to the wear bars (2/32).

Probably a multitude of other factors to consider as well such as tire pressures, road surface and curves. I live in TN so a lot of twisty roads around.

Anyway just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents as well.

Joe

[Diamondback]

 

[StrokedRider]

X2   

X3

[DesertHOG]

01, 03, 05 rear 8 to 10K
09 rear 16 to 18K
11.5 rear now at 6100 with no wear (and that was following JC and Terrie for 1900 miles)

SBB

Are you counting the 4k in the back of the truck?

[SIX38]

 Just had my rear tire changed yesterday at 8800 miles, 3/32" thread depth remaining. ('09 SEUC)
Front tire was changed at 5500 miles due to cupping, but was done on the MOCO's dime due to the Dunlop 407 /408 snafu.
 Most of these miles, the bike was fully loaded and about 50% of the time we were two-up. Lots of twisty roads in the east coast mountain ranges and I typically downshift into turns. It's time for brake pads front and rear also.
 Since most of my riding is planned trips, we ride rain or shine. I want all the thread depth I can get for wet weather riding. Stretching the mileage on motorcycle tires is risky business IMHO.
Ride safe all!
Tom P.

[cvosjoe]

Just had my rear tire changed yesterday at 8800 miles, 3/32" thread depth remaining. ('09 SEUC)
Front tire was changed at 5500 miles due to cupping, but was done on the MOCO's dime due to the Dunlop 407 /408 snafu.
 Most of these miles, the bike was fully loaded and about 50% of the time we were two-up. Lots of twisty roads in the east coast mountain ranges and I typically downshift into turns. It's time for brake pads front and rear also.
 Since most of my riding is planned trips, we ride rain or shine. I want all the thread depth I can get for wet weather riding. Stretching the mileage on motorcycle tires is risky business IMHO.
Ride safe all!
Tom P.

I'm not sure how "Stretching the mileage on motorcycle tires is risky business" has anything to do with this unless you're running the tire below DOT standards, until it is bald or the cords are showing. Replacing a tire with 20k on it and 3/32 of tread depth is no more risky than replacing a tire with 5k on it and 3/32 of tread depth.  JMHO

[SIX38]

As we started a trip through the Adirondack Mtns. last year, I mentioned to Charlie, "Gee, not much rubber left on that rear tire!". No problem said, Charlie, "I'm not down to the wear bar yet." And as we helped Charlie extract his Road Glide from the corn field he slid into during a brief shower, he thought it might be a good idea to stop at the nearest dealer for some new skins. Just saying!
Tom P.

[JCZ]

01, 03, 05 rear 8 to 10K
09 rear 16 to 18K
11.5 rear now at 6100 with no wear (and that was following JC and Terrie for 1900 miles)
SBB

Yea, but that's because Terrie was making me take it real easy on you guys from North Cackalacky.

[RayG]

I average between 6K to 8K on my rear tire to my 08 SERK.  No burnouts but aggressive on twisty Mountain roads which would mean more than normal amounts of downshifting and braking.  I'll change it sooner if I'm putting it away for the winter.  I always wondered how some can get such high mileage on their tires.  I guess we get what we deserve, if we want to play a little rough we have to pay the price.      

[cvosjoe]

As we started a trip through the Adirondack Mtns. last year, I mentioned to Charlie, "Gee, not much rubber left on that rear tire!". No problem said, Charlie, "I'm not down to the wear bar yet." And as we helped Charlie extract his Road Glide from the corn field he slid into during a brief shower, he thought it might be a good idea to stop at the nearest dealer for some new skins. Just saying!
Tom P.

I think we are getting off topic here but I have seen bikes with new tires lose control in a corner when the road is wet. It doesn't matter how much rubber you have left you always need to adjust for road conditions. A quick little shower can make the road slicker than a down pour. Maybe Charlie just needs to slow down when the roads are wet.

[SIX38]

Actually Charlie did slow it down a bit after his off-roading adventure. My point is this. The purpose of the grooves in tires is to channel water away from the tire contact area to prevent hydroplaning. The less groove depth you have, the less water the tire will channel and will increase your chances of breaking contact. I just feel that when you are down to the minimun thread depth (wear bars) you're pushing your luck.
Tom P.