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[cvo1717]

I have 2010 cvo dynafatbob want to know if the se259 cam is a bolt in or do you have to do head work.If anyone has used this cam what gains did they see .Have TTS tuner and V/H big shots already on .
Thanks Mike

[StevesCVO]

Those cams can be swapped out with no head work. I can't tell you what gains you will see with just the cams as mine has a ton of other engine work done.

[HD Street Performance]

Assuming you have a good pipe and it is retuned properly you would likely add a few hp over 4K and take away some torque peak and noticeably shift the torque curve to the right a little. If it were me I would use  a Feuling 574 for that bike and the motor combo. Has a better track record as a 110 bolt-in. If you are looking to improve low speed torque and punch at the bottom I would leave it alone and use a good pipe and get it tuned properly.

[cvo1717]

What if i port the heads and go to 10:1 comp would that cam work?If not what do you recomend ? I was thinking of sending the heads to Branch.I am looking to get about 115 -120 hp.
thanks Mike

[HD Street Performance]

You now have a new agenda and you will need the head work, bigger throttle body, longer higher lift cams than a 259.
You will also be looking at 10.5/1 compression, better accomplished by pistons on the 110 than head milling

[cvo1717]

I really dont want to change the pistons.Also i dont want to go over 10:1 heard 90 degree days it will ping.Based on that do you think i can see 115 hp. thanks again Mike

[Heatwave]

I really dont want to change the pistons.Also i dont want to go over 10:1 heard 90 degree days it will ping.Based on that do you think i can see 115 hp. thanks again Mike

I think you can get in the ballpark of 115hp with a nice fat torque curve but it takes some work with the 110's. You'll need headwork, a relatively aggressive cam (mine are Woods 408-6 cams), larger TB, Larger injectors. I also put roller rockers in the mix but I stayed with the stock pistons. Of course you'll need a good tuner and a performance oriented pipe. I went with a D&D FatCat (+ ghost). I'm at 115hp/119ftLbs. Good luck.

[HD Street Performance]

That would be Branches call. The guy that ports your heads should be given the reins to tell you what will get what done.

I could and have made that power at that compression SAE and more importantly 123 FT LBS of torque peak and over 100 from 2200-5k with a 235 degree 575 lift cam and no piston swap.

But 120hp+ like I said is a new agenda and my choice would not be the 408 to accomplish that, but the 408 is a good cam in certain builds and would go there. I have posted previously here a dyno with a 110 that made 122 square (Jds Cycle, SAE) and had a flat as a pancake torque curve but that one had pistons and a TB swap, was FBW, and used a TW400 cam.
My experience with the 110 is you have to be very careful matching parts. They turn to a soggy ride quick when everything is not working together.

[cvo1717]

Thank you for your help guys .i am going to talk to branch tomorrow and see what he thinks .Let you know what he said tomorrow.
Thanks Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Not hard to to get that type of power rolling from a 110"er.
Mr. Jim Kennedy, Paradise Performance, Matoon, Ill, has tuned our 107" combinatons, to over 120/120, as well as other tuners across the US.
Scott

[cvo1717]

Talked to Branch he said the heads and valves are a little on the big side on a 110.Does not want to take my money said i probably would not see to much of a difference.Nice guys over there .They told me the same thing as you guys 10.5:1 comp and ask Woods what cam he recomends.
thanks again Mike

[HD Street Performance]

Well yes the valves are big but the throat on the intake is 92% to the intake head diameter. Part of the throttle response and torque scheme is to correct that with a 2.12+ larger valve (same head size used in the MVA) with a different under head design. Now we sit at ~90.5%. Better flow from the bottom to the top of the valve lift range. Better throttle response. The exhaust is huge but still is no flow champion but more importantly has some inherent issues that need fixing.
If you are headed for 105-110hp a cam swap can do that otherwise the ante rises. That cam swap will net higher numbers but also moves the torque curve to the right. It is a Dyna so no need to fret over a little lost down low. If you are talking to Wood and after he suggests the TW777 or TW555 ask him about the TW8 if you really want to go. You will need to mill the heads and use a .030 head gasket to get that cam to come into it's own. Still more to be had with head work and a TB change. A good 2 into 1 is essential or Cycle Shacks, your current pipe is a horsepower and torque murderer and when the cam with added overlap is added could easily cost you 10/10.

"..the sheet shows 124 tq. and 115 hp. VERY smooth and quiet, quieter than the 255's with stock pushrods and lifters. Lots of fun to ride, Thank you for the excellent work and fast service".  This is a direct quote from an email I just got and this is a 103" Ultra LTD with mild port work and a Wood TW5-6, 9.8/1 stock TB D&D BossCat

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Talked to Branch he said the heads and valves are a little on the big side on a 110.Does not want to take my money said i probably would not see to much of a difference.Nice guys over there .They told me the same thing as you guys 10.5:1 comp and ask Woods what cam he recomends.
thanks again Mike

After working almost exclusively with www.woodcarbs.com cams, since the mid-90's, the 555, or 777 would be a great choice.
Branch said not worth the time to work those over?
Those heads are sleeping giants, and we have witnessed almost 30 cfm gains at peak lift, on our flow bench, along with GREATLY enhanced low-lift, cylinder-filling abilities, once we are completed with them here.
Dyno evidence on another message board of those(our) heads, again, on top of a smaller engine, 107", with a Wood 8, 58mm FBW, V&H H-O pipe, showing 129 hp, and 120 ft/lbs.
You simply are not going into that zip code, with the untouched OE castings. 
Scott

[cvo1717]

The sheet dewysheads is talking about with 124tq and 115hp thats  with stock pistons and you milled the heads to get the comp up.
If i am getting this right thats what i want to do.Ballpark what does something like that cost?
Mike

[cvo1717]

Talked to woods today he recomended TW777 cam if I want to use a bolt in.If I pull heads and change pistions he said either TW8 or TW9.Can TW777  be installed without pulling heads?
Thanks Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

The 777 for a fact is a "bolt-in" cam, as far as being used under OE springs, and it ends there, as it WILL be sluggish, without the proper compression ratio.
Your current cr is too low for it, but with a simple re-surface of the heads, you'd experience a HUGE gain.
Scott

[cvo1717]

How much do i have yo mill off and how much comp do i need to make the cam work?What numbers do you think i can see?
THanks Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

You really do not want to arbitrarily remove "X" from the head.
You need to cc the combustion chamber volume, once void of carbon, and remove material as needed at that point.
Check twice, cut once, and creep up to the desired volume.
Along with that, the displaced cc's of the cylinder head gasket being used, is factored into the equation, and lastly, how far the piston sits below the cylinder deck, at TDC, needs to be addressed/factored as well.
Scott

[petewerner]

I may have missed it, but why the 115 hp or 125 hp or whatever it was? It seems like alot of people build their motors for a number, instead of perhaps just finding an designed/engineered to work in conjunction with each other. With fuel injection, computers, throttle bodies, etc., it is much more complex than a few years back when there was no map to change either... There are such systems and multiple manufactures, including but not limited to Harley Screamin Eagle.
With this approach, there is alot of  hp that can be added to a bike and it will  run just like stock, only a ton faster, who cares what a guy in a room with  a dyno can squeeze out for peak numbers, it is how friggin hard can this thing pull, and if u feel like saying wow each time u twist the grip, then that is the right number for u and the bike.
I wasted alot of money searching for the perfect combo for whatever bike I had, this time I went for a known product, used by many and proven reliabilty and performance made for the best choice 4 me. Now it performs like stock, no little hick-up here or there, just one heck of alot faster! Puts a smile on my face, and no  dyno room running the crap outta my bike!!  

[LC110]

You may want to look into the T-Man 600 SuperMax cams.
Nice cam for a non bagger IMO.http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=65029.0

[cvo1717]

So if you have to bump the comp and play with the heads its not a "bolt in cam".Looks like going to bite the bullit and change pistions tb port heads and whatever else i have to do.I am going to call Andrew from Rosas Cycle (huntington. N Y)and do whatever he says is best for the 110.
Mike

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

He'll take care of you, and tell him that Joe from Joe's Cycle, and I said hello.
Next time he's @ Joe's, to have him bring some of that chow from that old Italian Deli.....
Glad we were of help answering your questions.
Scott

[cvo1717]

Talked to Andrew he said a bolt in cam on a 110 is wast of time.You will see minimal gains and just move the power over.The way to go he explained to me have him do the head work CP 10:5:1 pistion 51 mm TB  new injectors adj pushrods tw-408 or something close depending on how I ride D&D Fatcat dyno tune .He said I will be very happy with the results.Thanks again for all your help and next time I talk to him I tell him what you said Joe
Mike

[HD Street Performance]

Here is the dyno I referenced and this is a little 103" with Street Pro heads 9.9/1 compression and a WOOD TW5-6. Corrected to SAE.
Andy knows the grind well.  I have used it in a 110 with just a .030 milled heads many times successfully.

[cvo1717]

Those are nice numbers for a 103 .After talking to andrew I understand more about what I want and how to get it. He is one of the best tuners that are close to where I live.I will ask him about the cam you used also.Since i am going to let him do the work I want to follow what he suggests .
thanks again Mike

[hotroadking]

Heard the same from Mike R at Biketoberfest

Heads need to be milled and cylinders shaved some to get the
piston to pop up enough so you can get that valuable compression

throttle body to get enough air in then cams and you can make
the power you want.  Otherwise a bolt in and not much
can be expected.

My concern then is if you start making 120+ and use it
like it's intended for it's going to be hard on the bottom end

So wouldn't you need to look at timken bearing on the crank
and possibly having the flywheels done at darkhorse to be safe
you are not riding a grenade waiting to go off.

by that time, with all the time, money, parts, work
and tuning wouldn't you be better off to drop the 120R in
and put the 110 in the box for when you want to trade the
bike later.  Pull the 120R out and put the 110 back in
get new bike, swap in 120r

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Talked to Andrew he said a bolt in cam on a 110 is wast of time.You will see minimal gains and just move the power over.The way to go he explained to me have him do the head work CP 10:5:1 pistion 51 mm TB  new injectors adj pushrods tw-408 or something close depending on how I ride D&D Fatcat dyno tune .He said I will be very happy with the results.Thanks again for all your help and next time I talk to him I tell him what you said Joe
Mike

My name is Scott, owner of www.hillsidecycle.com, as my posts are always signed, and Joe, is the owner of www.joescyclerepair.com.
Andrew Rosamiglia comes up to visit Joe's facility, several times a year.
Scott

[cvo1717]

i AM SORRY NOW i GOT IT.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Heard the same from Mike R at Biketoberfest

Heads need to be milled and cylinders shaved some to get the
piston to pop up enough so you can get that valuable compression

throttle body to get enough air in then cams and you can make
the power you want.  Otherwise a bolt in and not much
can be expected.

My concern then is if you start making 120+ and use it
like it's intended for it's going to be hard on the bottom end

So wouldn't you need to look at timken bearing on the crank
and possibly having the flywheels done at darkhorse to be safe
you are not riding a grenade waiting to go off.

by that time, with all the time, money, parts, work
and tuning wouldn't you be better off to drop the 120R in
and put the 110 in the box for when you want to trade the
bike later.  Pull the 120R out and put the 110 back in
get new bike, swap in 120r

Still need a t/body, roller rockers by rights, and the 120R's are about .7 point shy of compression to optimize their full potential with 266 cam, along with some sort of clutch set-up, and the cost of filter/fluids/plugs/gaskets, and the remove/replace labor.
Scott

[FLSTFI Dave]

Here is the dyno I referenced and this is a little 103" with Street Pro heads 9.9/1 compression and a WOOD TW5-6. Corrected to SAE.
Andy knows the grind well.  I have used it in a 110 with just a .030 milled heads many times successfully.

What would the torque curve and HP look like then with that cam in a 110?

What head mods and came would you recommend for a 110 in a Road glide that would see 13000 ~ 15000 miles a year.  Bike is ridden solo, with a chopped tour pack at most.  When on the interstate I run about 2800 to 3000 rpm, on secondary roads and hwys 2400 rpm or more.

[hotroadking]

Still need a t/body, roller rockers by rights, and the 120R's are about .7 point shy of compression to optimize their full potential with 266 cam, along with some sort of clutch set-up, and the cost of filter/fluids/plugs/gaskets, and the remove/replace labor. :(Scott

Well unless you're doing it yourself you are going to pay Labor if have a shop to RNR the whole engine from top to bottom..

I'm just saying by the time you take the engine down to the frame,
send off the cases and flywheels to one place, cylinders and heads to another,
then buy an intake/TB, get it all back and put it together with whichever cam
you choose, then, spend the dyno time unless you have a TTS map that you
supply when you do 110 heads for someone, you could have ordered
a 120R, put it in, added the intake anyway, and still had a spare 110 stock
to drop back in if you wanted to, or, sell the 110.

JMO it makes no sense to put any money into a 110 for massive power gains
when a 120R can be bought at a discount from many dealers.

Either way the warranty is gone.

If you live up north and like working on your bike, maybe it's a great winter project.
but down here I'd rather take the weekend to drop in a 120R, or Even an SNS  124 which
has a warranty BTW vs the 120R's no warranty. 

Either way you're pushing over 130 RWHP and TQ easy with both engines....

WIth the swap it's

Remove primary and guts.
Remove engine mounting bolts.
Put Engine on Stand
Put 120R in Frame
Install Mounting bolts
Install primary and guts.

Download TTS Map

Ride...

[HD Street Performance]

Put the 120r in the bike and ride 

[East Coast]

So if you have to bump the comp and play with the heads its not a "bolt in cam".Looks like going to bite the bullit and change pistions tb port heads and whatever else i have to do.I am going to call Andrew from Rosas Cycle (huntington. N Y)and do whatever he says is best for the 110.
Mike

For what it's worth.... I had some motor work done by Andrew back in 2007, he did a great job. I have an 02 heritage springer he bumped it up to 95 cubic inches, head work, Andrews 55 gear cams with a V&H pro pipe, ended up with 104 HP / 107 TQ. the bike runs great!! There are a few guy's with shops who frequently post and have great info and I'm sure do great work as well but are far away for some of us, Rosa's will hook it up nice. I would highly recommend them!

[cvo1717]

Thanks I feel very confident that he will do a great job.Also talked to  Bob Woods from wooods cams he highly recommened Rosas Cycle does alot of work with Andrew. MIKE

[East Coast]

Keep us posted!