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[TANKS 250]

What it's the stock rise and pull?

What is the largest "ape" I can go before I have to extend my GPS and hydraulic lines?

[nu_glider]

Don't forget all of the electrical wiring including your FBW throttle.  I would imagine your pocket book will be your limit.  I have seen kits that provide everything, seems like that would be the best way to rise to the occasion.

[TANKS 250]

In case anyone else asks.....here is my link to the answer.

http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=71976.0

total cost...$189 for bars....that's it.

[jessie2011]

I used 10 inch monkey bars on mine with no problem.  No extensions of anything.  I have been told that 11's will work and if you re-rout the clutch cable you can get some 12"s to work.  But I know for a fact 10 will work.

[TANKS 250]

I used 10 inch monkey bars on mine with no problem.  No extensions of anything.  I have been told that 11's will work and if you re-rout the clutch cable you can get some 12"s to work.  But I know for a fact 10 will work.

I guess you missed the link I posted ...which is a thread I made of my new 12.5" Wild One apes...

...LOL....so I know for a fact 12.5" apes will work with no modifications and no extra parts...only need the bars.

[Mogulbumm]

2nd the Wild1 12.5" Apes. It was tight, but no extensions to the cables necessary.

[gpopvet]

Has anybody raised their bars and how high can they be raised without extending cable? I would like to see any pictures. I am only talking about 2-4 inches.

[HD4me]

I have been looking at the Paul Yaffe Monkey bars and I called them last week.  They answered the phone and my questions.  Showed me pics of bikes with the various size bars. Phil at BaggerNation.com is awesome and very helpful.  BaggerNation.com is Paul Yaffe's place.
The 10" bars will not need any extensions (wires & cables).
The 12" (and taller) bars need extensions.  Some people on the RoadGlide.org claim the 12" bars do not need extensions.  I will most likely go with the 12" bars this winter and let Woodstock, IL HD do the work.  Hydrolic clutch and ABS are new to me.  Wiring in the bars sort of scares me too.  Most people do not get it right the first time.  Plus I have 6 years of warranty to protect.

[HD4me]

Tank 250,
How tall are you and are your hands over your shoulders with the Wild Ones?
Any advice you have for someone who wants to do your same setup on the bars? 
Are you happy with the finish and looks on the black bars vs the chrome.  I was thinking of going just like that or the 12" Monkey bars.

Will your cables still have room to pull the bars back further?  I want to lean back on the backrest.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

[TANKS 250]

I'm 5' 10"...arms are completely flat.

I really like the black contrast over the chrome...

....the wires are tight..but they will pull back, you will actually gain more room by pulling them back.

[HD4me]

Tank 250 - Thanks for the reply.
I think you have the GPS mounted on the stock FLTRUSE Chrome arm that mounts to your hydrolic clutch perch.
I sent pictures of mine to Wild1 and they said those bars to not work because the GPS mount does not clear the 1.25" portion of the bars.
Are your controls pushed all the way up to the 1.25" portion?  is there a gap?  How was it wiring the GPS/heated grips/controls and all through the bars?
I trust you did this, I'm just looking for all of the information I can collect to get "comfy" with the decission to do it all myself and save $800 or more in labor.
That will go a long ways toward Legends shocks... ;-}

[TANKS 250]

Tank 250 - Thanks for the reply.
I think you have the GPS mounted on the stock FLTRUSE Chrome arm that mounts to your hydrolic clutch perch.
I sent pictures of mine to Wild1 and they said those bars to not work because the GPS mount does not clear the 1.25" portion of the bars.
Are your controls pushed all the way up to the 1.25" portion?  is there a gap?  How was it wiring the GPS/heated grips/controls and all through the bars?
I trust you did this, I'm just looking for all of the information I can collect to get "comfy" with the decission to do it all myself and save $800 or more in labor.
That will go a long ways toward Legends shocks... ;-}

They are retarded, the GPS fits just fine.

The wiring is a TOTAL B1TCH!!!...lots of petroleum jelly..and patience..

The brake and clutch cables have to rerouted differently to get the needed length...but it is completely doable...I did it.


.

[HD4me]

Tank 250,
Thanks for the insight.  Extreamly valuable.
Your bike is looking great.  Thanks for your help.

[HD4me]

Tank250, I don't mean to be a pain but I have some more questions on the 12.5" wild ones.

Does the clutch master cylinder clamp tighten properly or is it rubbing on the thick part of the bars on the GPS perch?  I've heard others had to do some grinding to get it to seat properly and tighten properly.
Did you disconnect the clutch hose and brake hose from the master cylinders to reroute the lines?  If so is the the process the same as bleeding non-ABS brakes?  Did you load the fluid from the bottom - up or the standard pump the brake/clutch, hold it, bleed the line, repeat...
The manual states you need to run some diagnostics on the ABS to validate the system has no air in it.  Did you do this, If so, how?

Did you have to pull the tank to reroute the brake line?
Did you have to pull the exhaust to purge the clutch line?

Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated.  I am trying to understand the size of the project since I do not want to give the Stealer the money for the work.  I want more parts instead of $$$ labor.
Thanks for your help.

[TANKS 250]

I didn't remove the tank
I didn't disconnect the clutch or brake cables...no bleeding necessary.