Topic: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION: (Read 23601 times)

FXR2evo99 · « **on:** April 26, 2012, 03:36:47 PM »

Hello Everyone.....

Well after some real deliberations....and after doing an engine modification in FEB of 2011. I rode my bike last summer and still was a bit underwhelmed by my results....

Just so you know my dyno numbers are 84 HP and 94 Torque. I modified heads, i.e.: head work, put in a EVL 3000 (V-Thunder Cam), am running a .040 Head Gasket and basically running 9.02:1 CORRECTED COMPRESSION. I can spend more time talking about the build but the scope of this THREAD is about coordinating gearing and engine modifications while creating the type of riding we desire.

So I have spent last fall really studying the effects of gearing.....so here is what I am in the process of doing:

First of all our OEM set up for all CVO FXR's is the following:

Primary Side: 25T Compensating Sprocket X 36T Clutch Shell Basket
Secondary Side: 32T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket X 65T Rear Wheel Sprocket + 133T OEM Kevlar Belt

HERE ARE THE PARTS:

3.36 FINAL GEARING INSTALL & SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL REPAIR:

Part # ITEM QTY EACH PRICE 20% OFF
SKF 4260 Double Lip Seal Shifter Shaft Seal
472810 Federal Mogul Double Lip Seal 1 6.65 6.65
12066A Jack Shaft Lip Seal 1 5.88
12052A Inner Primary Main Shaft Seal 1 3.72
11147 Housing Cover O-Ring (8”) 1 1.56
34901-94C Outer Primary Cover Gasket 1 24.32
94137-09 Mainshaft Sprocket SOCKET 1 7/8” 1 149.95 119.96
40001-85 OEM HD 136T Secondary Belt 1 1/2" WIDE 1 200.00 165.60
40217-79A 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 1 210.00 119.74
290304 Andrews 5 Speed 30T Trans Pulley 1 135.00 89.00
H30-06 Rev Tech Primary Fluid 1 6.36
---------
$542.19

Alright first let's go over the price list, you will notice the SKF 4260 and the Federal Mogul Seals listed first, some of you or all of you may know about this repair or not, but if you look at your parts book and locate your shifter shaft and where it comes out of the transmission you will note that there is a seal, which HD sells as a single lip seal which has a propensity to LEAK, as both of my bikes are doing now....lol, so a better SOLUTION is to replace this seal with a completely different seal which is a DOUBLE LIP SEAL and two companies that make the right seal which are both DOUBLE LIP SEALS which HELP to prevent leaking would be either SKF or Federal Mogul (and by the way it's now packaged under TIMKEN because TIMKEN purchased Federal Mogul) so, and by the way the only way to gain access to this LEAKING SEAL is to remove not only the outer primary, as well as the compensating sprocket and the clutch shell basket and the primary chain and tensioner, is that you ALSO have to remove the INNER PRIMARY as well.....oh yeah....it's all fun so to repair this leak it's 4 hours labor at a shop for a $7.00 seal, oh yeah baby, oh yeah.....

So that's why I am labeling this the Gear Change and Shifter Shaft Seal Repair.

Ok so let's continue with the parts list descriptors....fortunately I was able to locate a brand new Rear Wheel Sprocket off of ebay for $119.00 shipped to me. This part can still be purchased from HD but it's retail list is $210.00, ouch. Next is the Andrews Transmission Sprocket/Pulley which if purchased from Andrews is priced at $135.00 I once again found one on EBAY for $89.00 brand new shipped to my door. Of course if you do the math for the secondary drive calculations you will note that the 32T OEM Transmission Pulley/Sprocket X 65T OEM Rear Wheel Sprocket calls for a 133T OEM Kevlar Belt. So if you do the math and reduce the 32T OEM Transmission Pulley/Sprocket down to a 30T Andrews Transmission Pulley/Sprocket and move up the Rear Wheel Sprocket from a 65T OEM to a 70T which is also OEM for different HD bikes you end up needing a kevlar belt which is 32-30 = -2 + 65 + 5 = 70T so you need -2 +5 = +3T larger belt or a 136T Kevlar Belt. Upon further research you will discover that all 1989-1994 FXR's use a HD# 40001-85 136T Belt and remember that the 1989 - 1993 FXR's had a final gear ratio of 3.37:1 while the 1994 FXR modeled bikes featured 3.153:1 Final Geared Ratio Bikes. Use a 136T belt from HD....you don't want to mess around with used belts for this sort of project to say the least. I listed the part number above and the belt is readily available.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #1 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:37:43 PM »

You will also note that I listed a tool which is a approximately sized 6" socket which comes with a "donut" that keeps the 6" length socket from hitting the main drive of the transmission which is needed to ACTUALLY remove the 1 7/8" Transmission Pulley/Sprocket NUT. This tool is required to change out the 32T OEM Transmission Pulley/Sprocket to a 30T Andrews Transmission Pulley/Sprocket. If you don't wish to do this job yourself in your own garage and you wish to take it to a indy shop or HD, then of course this tool is needless....but you will be paying roughly 5 hours labor to do this job as this job requires you to remove the swing arm as well which is beyond just the scope of removing the inner primary. The swing arm removal is required anytime you change a belt which isn't that often of course but it's definitely part of this modification since we are lengthening the belt by 3 teeth. You must also remove the tire and replace the rear wheel sprocket from the OEM 65T to a OEM 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket. I would say conservatively that this is a 5 hour job as far as labor costs are at a professional job, however the professional shop will not clean everything Or put everything back as carefully as I will....so for me this will be probably closer to an 8 hour job. Cleaning bolts, cleaning the inner primary, cleaning of the threads that will handle the red loc tite at the location of the compensating sprocket, as well as the 1 7/8" Transmission Pulley/Sprocket Nut, and finality the clutch shell basket nut. Not to mention the 2 hour bike cleaning before I even begin this surgery....LOL.

Ok so let's talk about the FINAL Gearing Ratio Numbers and the combinations you could end up with.

IF YOU DO NOTHING AND KEEP IT OEM:

25T Comp x 36T Clutch Shell Basket X 32T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 65T Rear Wheel Sprocket 133T Belt =OEM 2.925 Final Gear

IF YOU CHOOSE TO MODIFY YOUR FINAL GEARING RATIOS HERE ARE "MOST" OF THE RELEVANT COMBINATIONS YOU COULD END UP WITH:

The Green Denotation Is Indeed The Combination I will be using.

25T Comp x 36T Clutch Shell Basket X 30T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 136T Belt = 3.36 Final Gear

25T Comp x 36T Clutch Shell Basket X 32T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 138T*Belt = 3.15 Final Gear

24T Comp x 37T Clutch Shell Basket X 32T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 65T Rear Wheel Sprocket 133T Belt = 3.13 Final Gear

24T Comp x 37T Clutch Shell Basket X 30T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 136T Belt = 3.59 Final Gear

24T Comp x 37T Clutch Shell Basket X 32T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 138T*Belt = 3.37 Final Gear

* = I know you can purchase a 133T Belt and a 136T Belt from HD, even though the math points to the idea or concept of using a 138T Belt all 1993 and 1994 FXR's use the same belt which is the part number listed above i.e.: HD# 40001-85 which is a 136T Belt so obviously one just needs to set the tension right. The 1989-1993 FXR's have 3.37 Final Gearing and the 1994 FXR's have 3.15 Final Gearing.

So as you can see there are many options and you can study the merits of any one of them just as you can decide whether doing anything makes no sense at all....lol.....I was just trying to answer the inevitable question but what if you do this combo or that combo....mixing and matching.....this discussion assumes there is merits in my decision to change the gearing or else I wouldn't be doing it. You may find there are no merits so this thread has little value for you....so the rest of this discussion will be based upon the merits of such a modification.

Given that you see the combos up above, what my research has shown me is that ALL 1989 FXR's through 1993 FXRs actually came with 3.37 final gearing from the factory. The 1994 FXR's came with 3.15 gearing from the factory.

I am providing 3 gearing charts with certain Final Gearing RPMS for your review, they will be 2.925 Final Gearing, then 3.15 Final Gearing, and then 3.37 Final Gearing. The difference between 3.36 Final Gearing and 3.37 Final Gearing isn't even worth worrying about....it's so minimal that....it's just a touch shy of 3.37 Final Gearing. So showing the chart for 3.37 Final Gearing works easily for quick comparisons....it's like 4 or 5 RPM difference not 50 or 100 or 200 only 4-5 RPMS difference.....

What you should be able to do now with the attached charts if you have a dyno of your current bikes performance is to realize, given the cam you have chosen where your particular cam comes on and how via transferring the charting information how your engine modification is actually interacting with the OEM Final Gearing and if you were to modify how it might better interact with such chosen modification.

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:38:06 PM »

Here is the gearing RPM Chart for our OEM 2.925 FINAL GEARING FXR's

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:38:28 PM »

Here is the Gearing Chart For 3.15 FINAL GEARING

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:38:50 PM »

Here is the Gearing Chart For 3.37 Final Gearing

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:39:34 PM »

In a book called:

How To Build A Harley-Davidson Torque Monster
By Bill Rook 2007

This book has provided some important information over the years from a perspective of modifying one's bike, he actually devoted one chapter, Chapter 5 which is approximately 7 pages long to the merits of gearing. Some of those thoughts I have recorded here.

Bill Rook talks about a letter he received from Jerry Branch on page 76:

So how important is this gear problem? Let's see what the legendary Jerry Branch of Branch Flowmetrics has to say about it. The following is an excerpt from a letter that Jerry sent me back in February of 2000:

Bill,

Harley has the motorcycle (twin cam) greatly over-geared and this is the most important thing that you can do to improve it.. You need to drop the motor sprocket (compensating sprocket) from a 25-tooth to a 24-tooth and change the transmission pulley/sprocket from a 32 tooth to a 30 tooth. Andrews makes this transmission pulley sprocket and H-D makes the engine sprocket (compensating sprocket). The motorcycle will run 10 times better everywhere with this setup. If I had a choice of only one thing I could do to the motorcycle, I would take the gear change 10 to one, even if it were twice the price of the heads, cams, carb, and pipes. It's a must! Without it, you will only get 5 percent results out of all the other stuff. Right now it's like having a trailer hooked onto the back of it. Get rid of the trailer and the motorcycle flies!

Sincerely,

Jerry Branch

Further comments by Rook go on to say:

Jerry clearly makes the point that the stock gearing is not much help in getting the power to the street, and this is an especially strong statement when coming from one of the most famous Harley head porters in the business. He indirectly says he would choose a gear change over a set of his own Branch heads! Ouch that hurts!

The stock final gear ratio on the TWIN CAM is 3.153:1. This means that in fifth gear, the motor will turn 3.153 times for each single turn of the back tire. If you think this is high, check out the gear ratio of an 80-inch Evo Softail. Would you believe it is 2.925:1 final gearing! Being geared that high, it's amazing that the Fatboys or the Heritages can get out of their own way.

It's important to understand that the smaller the gear ratio between the motor and the rear wheel, the harder the engine has to work to turn the wheel at a given rate. If we increase this ratio, the motor will be be able to turn more revolutions to turn the rear wheel at the same rate. What we are doing through gearing is mechanically increasing the amount of torque we can apply to the rear wheel. The more torque we apply, the faster we can accelerate.

Stock Twin Cam gearing fifth gear at 2,200 RPMS = 50 miles per hour.

As with most things in the world of high-performance street harleys, you have to compromise. If the overall gearing is too high, you won't accelerate worth spit. If you gear too low, you'll loose top-end miles per hour, and your engine will be racing and turning a lot faster than it needs to at highway speeds. Of course, the six-speed transmission with overdrive will fix all of this.

Anyway, we're going to have to compromise on a street bike. Expert drag racers' lives revolve around going fast, and they will often recommend using a final ratio of 3.37:1 for a hot street Harley. Note that this is for the smaller displacement 80-inch Evo, so it should work well on the new larger Twin Cams. Again stock on the Evo Sportster's was 2.925:1 and the Twin Cams are 3.153:1, so 3.37:1 is an improvement.

Let's go back up to Jerry Branch's letter above, Jerry's recommendation was to get rid of that "trailer". If one followed his advice, one would drop the motor sprocket (compensating sprocket OEM 25T) from 25 teeth down to 24 teeth and drop the transmission pulley/sprocket from 32 teeth down to an Andrews 30 teeth. This is the gear ratio he is recommending, which would be 3.50:1 Final Gearing.

Jerry Branch is serious. He is recommending dropping from the stock 3.153:1 (for twin cams) down to 3.50:1. This should get the RPM up and the back wheel spinning!

I don't doubt that what Jerry Branch said is gospel. But remember that in the world of high-performance Harleys, we deal in compromises.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #6 on:** April 26, 2012, 03:48:37 PM »

My thoughts:

After reading all of the above several years ago, it's amazing to me that here we sit in 2012 with Harley-Davidson even making the gearing taller on 2007-2012 bikes going as high as 2.78:1 Final Gearing in the 2007 Touring Bikes.

Notice that there is a reference to the EVO softails as having 2.925:1 Final Gearing as well, which MAY possibly be the basis for why we have such gearing in our CVO FXR 2's, 3's, and 4's, perhaps these combination of parts were the most readily available at the time in 1999-2000 time period. Remember too that the final gearing for the 1989 - 1993 FXR's were 3.37:1 with the 1994 FXR's being put out of the factory with the 3.15:1 Final Gearing. One has to wonder whether as time proceeded as to whether the EPA guidelines with emissions and such caused such high gearing as well as a way to compromise meeting the given emissions standard requirements at that time.

All I know for sure is that I too believe as Bill Rook that going to 3.50:1 Final Gearing would be a bit more aggressive than even I would desire to extend myself to.....

I can tell you that 3.37 Final Gearing has been extensively used in the touring bikes as well.....I haven't done the research to be able to quote the actual years but one could do so if so motivated....I do know that the 99-2001 Touring bikes that had the merelii fuel injection were given 3.37:1 final gearing as to be able to have better performance than what the original oem merelli fuel injection was able to provide, because during these same years the 99-2001 touring bikes which left the factory as carbed bikes went out with 3.15:1 Final Gearing allowing both bikes to perform side by side more closely. The Merelli Fuel Injection just wasn't able to perform well enough as compared to the carbed version bikes so how could the MOCO persuade such consumers at the time to spend another $750.00 for the "upgrade" to FI if one hopped on a carbed bike and felt MORE performance than a FI bike, so they affectively "detuned" mechanically the carbed bikes by putting in taller gearing of 3.15:1 final gearing and sent the Merelli FI touring bikes out with the 3.37 Final gearing creating more punch.....amazing when you study the specifics of what was going on at the time. Then in 2002 all bikes that were EFI were given the Delphi Fuel Injection and that's when all bikes left the factory, dynas, softails, as well as touring bikes with 3.15:1 Final Gearing. As they finally had a EFI format that was delivering fuel properly and able to perform capably with the carbed version bikes.

I own a 2002 RKC and it has the delphi EFI in it, it came with 3.15:1 Final Gearing just as stated above and I modified it to the 3.37 Final Gearing back in 2006 and have loved the performance of the final gearing (3.37:1) since I made the effort to change it. It is wonderful and last summer I spent one day going from Jackson Hole WY back to my home town of Fort Collins, CO traveling through parts of Idaho, and Utah riding on small amounts of interstate highways and mountain roads and plains to the tune of 700 miles in one day, which is the longest I have ever ridden in one day, and was on the bike 14.5 hours and a total of a 16 hour day....going from 45 mph to 85 mph in various parts for various extended periods and I will debate to the end that there is any such extended vibration or discussions worthy that would say the higher RPMS are of any consequence to the enjoyment of riding the bike or the gas mileage for that matter....That bike has been heavily modified and I get around 45 MPH on it. So reasons of vibrations or fuel mileage or very weak parameters to defeat the merits of such "shorter" gearing. Once again remember that 3.37:1 Final Gearing came from the factory with all FXR's 1989-1993.

So I have just collected all of my parts and they are in transit to me at this time, in the next couple of weeks I will have actually performed this modification and provide a report on my findings.....

Given that I have already had my 2002 RKC running for 6 years at the 3.37:1 Final Gearing Ratio, I would say that I will expect no real huge "negative" surprises.

I have also studied where my dyno results with my current build that have come in for my build and can show specifically how going to the final gearing of 3.360:1 will actually allow me to use the power more efficiently as to how my engine has been built.

I don't think we have spent enough time studying the merits of gearing vs engine modifications that we do.

My hope is that I am creating the "Perfect Storm", and time will tell, the data when comparing RPM charting given the parameters of how I built my engine on paper show that I am.

I simply enjoy a bike that has more torque and given the parameters of where my torque comes on by modifying the gearing to put me in the RPMS where my engine likes running will actually have the opportunity to make the throttle response more congruent with where the engine has been built to run most efficiently.

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 26, 2012, 04:45:44 PM »

Ok for guys NOT running 116 HP or 122 LBS of Torque.....LOL

Here is how a 84 HP and 93 Torque Engine would work given RPM RANGES compared between 2.925:1 FINAL GEARING, 3.15:1 FINAL GEARING and 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING.

IN 5TH GEAR THE WAY MY ENGINE IS CONSTITUTED I AM GETTING:

90 LBS OF TORQUE 3400 RPMS - 4400 RPMS

Which provides the frame work for trying to put the gearing in a location where I am experiencing my "PEAK" Torque Numbers So let's look a how different gearing will adjust how this looks, in 5th gear:

5TH GEAR:
WITH A 25.5512" (649MM) AVON REAR TIRE

2.925:1 FINAL 3.15:1 FINAL 3.360:1 FINAL

55 MPH 2279 RMPS 2431 RMPS
60 MPH 2309 RPMS 2486 RPMS 2652 RMPS
65 MPH 2501 RPMS 2694 RPMS 2873 RPMS
70 MPH 2694 RPMS 2901 RPMS 3094 RPMS
75 MPH 2886 RPMS 3198 RPMS 3315 RPMS
80 MPH 3078 RPMS 3315 RPMS 3536 RPMS
85 MPH 3271 RPMS 3522 RPMS 3757 RPMS
90 MPH 3463 RPMS 3730 RPMS 3978 RPMS
95 MPH 3656 RPMS 3937 RPMS 4199 RPMS
100 MPH 3848 RPMS 4144 RPMS 4420 RPMS
105 MPH 4040 RPMS 4351 RPMS 4641 RPMS
110 MPH 4233 RPMS 4558 RPMS 4862 RPMS
115 MPH 4425 RPMS 4766 RPMS 5083 RPMS
120 MPH 4618 RPMS 4973 RPMS 5304 RPMS

Now look at this closely when compared to how my engine has been built....this is why when looking at Itank's previous comment about running his FXR4 prior to his engine modification in 5th gear at say 55 MPH was "chugging" the engine, heck you are only turning 2500 RPMS at 65 MPH. The design of the cam I have installed is showing that my cam's sweet spot in 5th gear where I am getting 93 LBS of Torque is between 3500 RPMS - 4000 RPMS if you study the 2.925:1 FINAL GEARING RPM CHART this means I would have to be going 90 MPH - 105 MPH to take advantage of being in the sweet spot with the OEM GEARING, which means to me that I would be always be chasing that feeling of power in the bike, that ahh hahh moment where the reversion of the cam leaves and the wick of the throttle begins....I would really only feel the bikes real power when passing a car or racing from 90 MPH - 105 MPH. NOW take a peek at what changing the gearing would do to 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING, the peak numbers of 93 LBS of torque would start sooner because I would be turning more RPMS from 80 MPH to 90 MPH, it's a smaller window but it's an earlier window....meaning that I would see it be available to me 10 MPH sooner than the OEM gearing.

Now let's look at the wider range of TORQUE Numbers, if you look above the way my bike's engine has been modified I am experiencing only a 3 LBS of Torque Difference from the peak number of 93 LBS OF TORQUE but the range of 90 LBS of Torque goes for a greater distance, so let's look at this range now, thus I am experiencing 90 LBS of Torque from 3200 RPMS - 4600 RPMS so let's see how our gearing matches up with this.

Before we do, I will say that while our bikes typically hit our peak HP numbers much later sometimes around 5250 generally, if you ask most riders where they feel the greatest power it will typically correlate to where their PEAK Torque Numbers appear to show on a dyno chart, that's because this is the location where when you wick the throttle you feel that instantaneous response, so that's why I spend so much time talking about where the peak torque numbers reside instead of where our maximum horsepower resides.....I have tested this theory enough with guys that have dynoed their bikes and then I ask them to go out ride the bike and tell me where they feel the most power or the smile factor in the seat of the pants paying attention to their RPM ranges and typically when we go back and review their dyno charts there is a correlation to their peek torque numbers being within the range to the smile factor....

90 LBS of Torque from 3200 RPMS - 4600 RPMS the way my bike is constituted so let's look at the 2.925:1 as to how that looks with the RPM ranges:

Roughly 85 MPH to 126 MPH is where I would see the merits of how the bike works with the 2.925:1 FINAL GEARING, now let's all agree that my little 80" EVO engine probably only has a maximum speed of 110 MPH maybe 115 MPH but that's yet to be determined, all I can tell you is that it's no where close to 126 MPH out on a actual road, which means that the gearing is too tall to take advantage of everything the engine has been designed to do, plus if you look carefully at these numbers I don't even get to take advantage of how I built my engine in 5th gear UNTIL 85 MPH, no wonder I am feeling "sluggish" in 5th gear even at 65 MPH - 80 MPH!

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #8 on:** April 26, 2012, 04:46:35 PM »

Let's now take this RPM range and look at what the 3.15:1 AND 3.36:1 Final Gearing will show as it relates to the RPM RANGES:

Roughly around 72 MPH - 105 MPH is where I am running 3200 RPMS - 4600 RPMS
AH HAH, so given the cam I am running I am going to find that 5th gear wil run more efficiently with the 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING, the intake close angle of the cam I have chosen which is 34 degrees (which by the way is fairly early) has at least given me a reasonable chance to experience the best elements of how I built my engine starting in 5th gear right at the interstate speeds at 72 MPH, do you know what this means actually it means that from 75 MPH when I wick the throttle because of the mechanical help of the gearing I will be able to have a symbiotic relationship between the construct of the engine as well as the merits provided by the "shorter" gearing which will mean from a rider's feel "seat of the pants" that the relationship between wicking the throttle will require less dramatic effort because the efficiency of their working together from 75 MPH - 105 MPH will give me my best power range both mechanically from a gearing stand point as well as from the engine modifications that were done as well. Now if I were to choose an earlier intake cam I might see those numbers creep down even into the 65 MPH RANGE as well, but that would require another $150.00 for R&D and looking at another cam.

Now let's look at 4th Gear:

85 LBS OF TORQUE 3200 RPMS - 4700 RPMS

4TH GEAR:
WITH A 25.5512" (649MM) AVON REAR TIRE

2.925:1 FINAL 3.15:1 FINAL 3.360:1 FINAL

50 MPH 2366 RMPS 2549 RMPS 2718 RMPS
55 MPH 2603 RPMS 2803 RPMS 2990 RPMS
60 MPH 2840 RPMS 3058 RPMS 3262 RPMS
65 MPH 3076 RPMS 3313 RPMS 3534 RPMS
70 MPH 3313 RPMS 3568 RPMS 3806 RPMS
75 MPH 3550 RPMS 3823 RPMS 4078 RPMS
80 MPH 3786 RPMS 4078 RPMS 4349 RPMS
85 MPH 4023 RPMS 4332 RPMS 4621 RPMS
90 MPH 4260 RPMS 4587 RPMS 4893 RPMS
95 MPH 4496 RPMS 4842 RPMS 5165 RPMS
100MPH 4733 RMPS 5097 RMPS 5437 RMPS
105MPH 4970 RMPS 5352 RMPS 5709 RMPS
110MPH 5206 RMPS 5607 RMPS
115MPH 5443 RMPS
120MPH 5680 RMPS

3RD GEAR:

2.925:1 FINAL 3.15:1 FINAL 3.360:1 FINAL

35 MPH 2114 RPMS 2237 RPMS 2429 RPMS
40 MPH 2417 RPMS 2602 RPMS 2776 RPMS
45 MPH 2719 RPMS 2928 RPMS 3123 RPMS
50 MPH 3021 RPMS 3253 RPMS 3470 RPMS
55 MPH 3323 RPMS 3578 RPMS 3817 RPMS
60 MPH 3625 RPMS 3904 RPMS 4164 RPMS
65 MPH 3927 RPMS 4229 RPMS 4511 RPMS
70 MPH 4229 RPMS 4554 RPMS 4858 RPMS
75 MPH 4531 RPMS 4879 RPMS 5205 RPMS
80 MPH 4833 RMPS 5205 RMPS 5552 RMPS
85 MPH 5135 RMPS 5530 RMPS
90 MPH 5437 RMPS

2ND GEAR:

2.925:1 FINAL 3.15:1 FINAL 3.360:1 FINAL

25 MPH 2126 RMPS 2290 RPMS 2442 RMPS
30 MPH 2551 RPMS 2747 RPMS 2931 RPMS
35 MPH 2976 RPMS 3205 RPMS 3419 RPMS
40 MPH 3402 RPMS 3663 RPMS 3907 RPMS
45 MPH 3827 RPMS 4121 RPMS 4396 RPMS
50 MPH 4252 RPMS 4579 RPMS 4884 RPMS
55 MPH 4677 RPMS 5037 RPMS 5373 RPMS
60 MPH 5102 RPMS 5495 RPMS
65 MPH 5528 RPMS

1ST GEAR:

2.925:1 FINAL 3.15:1 FINAL 3.360:1 FINAL

20 MPH 2470 RPMS 2660 RPMS 2838 RPMS
25 MPH 3088 RPMS 3326 RPMS 3547 RPMS
30 MPH 3706 RPMS 3921 RPMS 4257 RPMS
35 MPH 4343 RPMS 4656 RPMS 4966 RPMS
40 MPH 4964 RPMS 5321 RPMS 5676 RPMS
45 MPH 5558 RMPS

As you can see you are not even on the peak torque numbers for 4th gear until 75 MPH roughly which is just another example of how inefficient you are running your engine when in 4th gear at 55 MPH no wonder the bike feels as though it is lagging. So you aren't on your peak torque numbers for 4th gear with the 2.925:1 FINAL GEAR RATIO until 75 MPH - 91 MPH.

Where as with the 3.360:1 FINAL GEAR RATIO you are on the peak numbers from 65 MPH - 80 MPH. Which if you look closely provides you a seamless power shift from 4th to 5th while staying completely within the power range of the cam. Which also makes running in 4th gear from 65 MPH - 80 MPH very efficient.

What you are hopefully seeing is that by moving to "Shorter" Gearing or to the 3.360:1 FINAL GEAR RATIO is that you are creating a union between both the mechanical gearing of the bike along with the engine dynamics as to how it has been modified. If one were to choose a later intake close angle cam this would only prove this more worthy.

Essentially in 4th Gear the 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING allows the bike at 65 MPH - 75 MPH to run at the peak Torque Numbers making the bike feel stronger 10 MPH sooner than the 2.295:1 FINAL GEARING does and essentially allows one to keep their bike in 4th Gear until 75 MPH.

continuation of these thoughts in reply #12.

ltank · « **Reply #9 on:** April 26, 2012, 05:06:51 PM »

I see that you swapped ratios abit. What did you settle on. Are you using the stock gears in the 5 speed tranny? I have a 2000 FXR4 CVO that has the 25 motor/36 basket and 32 tranny/65 rear wheel. It runs 80mph at 3,000 RPM best I can tell. It had a fair take off even with the tall gearing. My motor at the time had cam/carb/pipes with a little less than the power you have. What sucked was running 55 to 65 MPH. 60 MPH 4th gear was 3k or 60 MPH 5th gear about 2,200 RPM chugging the motor.
5th gear generally is not used unless I am going faster than 65 MPH. It seems there is a big gap wetween 4th and 5th with the stock tranny gear sets. I talked to Baker and they did not understand the gap that I was refering to?

The FXR4 manuel is a supplement and does not detail the tranny gearing. The FXR 2/3 manuel shows
1st-9.39 2nd-6.46 3rd-4.60 4th-3.59 5th-2.92. The difference between the gearing lessens as you shift 3rd-4th and 5th. A 6 speed tranny help? But the gearing would be too tall if keeping the 32/65 sprockets and they would need changing. What I would end up with is about the 6th would be about like my 5th but have more gears to pick from.
Maybe I don't understand the ratio thing. My feeling will not be hurt if can explain to me.
I now have a S&S V111. I will be installing a Barnett Scorpian Clutch soon. My clutch slips when hitting it riding two up. I know ther are few options for internal tranny gearing.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #10 on:** April 26, 2012, 06:01:17 PM »

Itank~

".....I see that you swapped ratios abit. What did you settle on. Are you using the stock gears in the 5 speed tranny? I have a 2000 FXR4 CVO that has the 25 motor/36 basket and 32 tranny/65 rear wheel. It runs 80mph at 3,000 RPM best I can tell. It had a fair take off even with the tall gearing. My motor at the time had cam/carb/pipes with a little less than the power you have. What sucked was running 55 to 65 MPH. 60 MPH 4th gear was 3k or 60 MPH 5th gear about 2,200 RPM chugging the motor.
5th gear generally is not used unless I am going faster than 65 MPH. It seems there is a big gap wetween 4th and 5th with the stock tranny gear sets. I talked to Baker and they did not understand the gap that I was refering to? The FXR4 manuel is a supplement and does not detail the tranny gearing. The FXR 2/3 manuel shows
1st-9.39 2nd-6.46 3rd-4.60 4th-3.59 5th-2.92. The difference between the gearing lessens as you shift 3rd-4th and 5th. A 6 speed tranny help? But the gearing would be too tall if keeping the 32/65 sprockets and they would need changing. What I would end up with is about the 6th would be about like my 5th but have more gears to pick from.
Maybe I don't understand the ratio thing. My feeling will not be hurt if can explain to me.
I now have a S&S V111. I will be installing a Barnett Scorpian Clutch soon. My clutch slips when hitting it riding two up. I know ther are few options for internal tranny gearing...."

I am going to run a final gear ratio of 3.36:1, and I am getting there by leaving the primary set up alone, I am however having to go into the primary to get to the back of it and remove the transmission pulley/sprocket and replace the OEM sprocket from a 32T to a Andrews 30T and then I am replacing the 65T rear wheel sprocket and putting on a HD OEM 70T Sprocket (remember the part number is specific to a 3/4" axle, don't forget this there are plenty of 70T later sprockets out there for a 1" axle i.e.: 2002+ dynas, softails, and touring bikes, but all FXR2 and FXR3 owners MUST have a 3/4" axle sprocket set up). Also changing the secondary belt from a 133T to a 136T belt, I explained this all above. Nothing was modified to get this FINAL GEARING of 3.360:1 in the transmission case.

Itank all CVO FXR's have the SAME gearing with the same set up.....whether one has a 1999 FXR2 or 1999 FXR3, or 2000 FXR4 they are all set up the same....just remember however your 2000 FXR4 has the 1" axle "I believe" for the rear wheel I know you have the 1" axle for the front wheel.....but I have never looked at the rear wheel....so your swing arm may or may not be the same part number since it may have to be a bit larger to accommodate the 1" rear sized axle....but I am not sure of this and haven't spent any time actually researching such information....since I don't have an FXR4. I will leave that all up to you FXR4 owners to spill the beans on that issue....The affected parts that would be different for FXR2 and FXR3 owners as compared to FXR4 owners would of course be the rear swing arm which Harley refers to as the Rear Fork in the Parts book, the rear axle, and of course the rear brake caliper which we know is also different matching the newer twin cam versions of brake calipers that are on all model bikes up to 2006 (except for dynas, I believe), and the rear wheel sprocket as well possibly being a different part number from us 1999 FXR2 and FXR3 owners.

You have described effectively the issues I have had with my bike, I like more torque regardless of what gear I am actually in.....than either the 3.153:1 final gearing that a twin cam bike offered with the carbed bikes of 1999-2001 and all bikes starting in 2002 through 2006 or what I feel my 2.925:1 Final Gearing seems to provide me with my FXR2. I know what I have done to my engine to build quickness and I feel as you do that I am basically in "no man's land" with the gearing as presently constituted at 55-70 MPH which really I have no use for 5th gear right now until I get above 70 MPH. It's almost as if the 5th gear for our CVO FXR's is an over drive gear.....and really has no use until you are going 75 MPH. It simply leaves you either with the engine revving too little with the RPMS until you get into the 75 MPH which is where 5th gear feels like you are back within the power band. I can provide specifics....I just haven't provided them above yet, but suffice it to say, I have such data, it just takes time to write it all out.

As Jerry Branch was trying to articulate as well as Bill Rook, everything is a compromise.....and how can one get the most bang for their buck $$$$ which is the ultimate goal of course. You seem to be describing the difficulties very well of the issues associated with present gearing....As I am writing this I fail to remember when our highways changed from 55 for interstate MPH to 75 MPH, but if our highways all were posted at 55 MPH max speed our gearing would not perhaps be as big of an issue, it's right where you are in that tweener location of as you said 55 MPH to 65 MPH.....which is how this gearing modification will help to resolve. Combine any engine modifications that one has done....and now you have only exacerbated the issue further at least in my opinion.

It's funny actually you never hear of any FXR owners that own a 1989-1993 3.37:1 Final Geared bike as being buzzy or uncomfortable or anything for that matter....they all seem to love it.

(to be continued below)

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #11 on:** April 26, 2012, 06:02:01 PM »

I have recently had a 10 minute conversation with an owner of a 1993 FXLR which has 3.37:1 final gearing and he has owned a 2000 Road King with 3.37 Final Gearing as well as 2 other FXR's which one was a 1990 FXR which was stolen, as well as a 1994 FXLR that he just sold last fall, so here is a guy that has owned a total of 3 FXR's as well as 1 road king, and a softail as well, he sold the softail as he didn't like it, and given the 3 FXR's he has owned he PREFERS the 3.37:1 Final Gearing of both the 1990 and 1993 FXR bikes. He obviously sold the 1994 FXR with the 3.15:1 Final Gearing. I specifically asked him about all of this, and his thoughts....as it is tough to talk with anyone that has paid much attention to their gearing, and he actually was very sensitive to his experience, he wouldn't own a FXR without 3.37:1 Final Gearing and had even spent time talking with other bike builders about this issue of which one in particular felt the 3.37:1 final gearing was very crucial to the success of any bike. I felt this was an interesting conversation of course.

So I have written this thread to provide some background and some R&D for the merits of it....once I have spent some time with the build and the gearing change I will of course report my findings....personally though, I am quite excited about the merits of this modification, as on paper they look great, just like they did on the modification for my 2002 RKC. In fact when it comes to my RKC I still have a 25T compensating sprocket and a entirely brand new 36T clutch shell sprocket and friction plates (the entire assembly) waiting all these years to go back in if I felt the 3.37:1 Final Gearing modification was not acceptable to me on that bike, and 6 years later the parts just sit nicely wrapped up and boxed, the modification back would only take about 3 hours or less and then I would be back to 3.15:1 Final Gearing but I absolutely love the feeling of the 3.37:1 Final Gearing with the way I built that engine....so I feel my response for the FXR2 will be equally positive but if it is not.....I have no problems going back the other way.....BUT when you study very carefully the merits of going to the "Shorter" gearing with the way I built my engine to run and given that I am a bonifide confessed Torque Junkie, I am pretty sure the results will be very nice, and probably will be kicking myself for not having done it sooner. If you were to go back to some old threads I participated in and read carefully I spent some time detailing why I wouldn't put the 3.37:1 Final Gearing in our CVO FXR's which have the 2.925:1 Final Gearing set up, but now that I have the engine modification that I completed FEB 2011, I know the performance of the bike is missing this last bit of the recipe.....so I am going to find out.....

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #12 on:** April 27, 2012, 12:28:02 PM »

If you study these charts closely enough and study the way you ride your bike, you will discover that 4th gear with the 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING will become more efficient and 5th gear will become actually much more usable.....which is just another benefit from the actual modification as well.

I will add more later....

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 27, 2012, 12:41:39 PM »

probably only need this spot to add any additional final information so I wil save this spot as well if I can think of anything else to write....

now it's just all about comments if there are any....

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #14 on:** April 28, 2012, 01:10:24 PM »

Thanks for this tip from Jamesbutler:

Overall/Final Gearing Ratio is determined by multiplying the inner primary value by the outer primary value. So, to determine the inner primary value, you divide the number of teeth on the clutch sprocket by the number of teeth on the compensating sprocket, e.g., 37/24 = 1.5417, rounded off to 1.54. Then to determine the outer primary value, you divide the rear wheel sprocket by the transmission sprocket, e.g., 70/32 = 2.1875 or rounded off to 2.19. Thus, by multiplying the inner primary value 1.54 by the outer primary value 2.19, you get 3.3724 or rounded off to 3.37.

To recap:
Inner primary ratio x Outer primary ratio = Overall ratio,
Inner primary = # of clutch sprocket teeth divided by # of compensating sprocket teeth, and
Outer primary = # of rear wheel sprocket teeth divided by # of transmission sprocket teeth, so
Inner primary (37/24) x Outer primary (70/32) = 1.54 x 2.19 = 3.37

or

Inner primary ratio x Outer primary ratio = Overall ratio,
Inner primary = # of clutch sprocket teeth divided by # of compensating sprocket teeth, and
Outer primary = # of rear wheel sprocket teeth divided by # of transmission sprocket teeth, so
Inner primary (36/25) x Outer primary (70/30) = 1.44 x 2.33 = 3.360

Regards,

Tim

ltank · « **Reply #15 on:** April 28, 2012, 09:24:40 PM »

Well after info overload and all the help, You have been a great help! I came up with a plan. Buy a Baker DD6 and use the stock 25 tooth motor sprocket and chain.. I went to the Baker site and played with the numbers. It did not explain in detail like you did here. By keeping my stock FXR4 25/36 and 32/65 I will retain a 2.92 sixth gear and the one through five should give what I need at all the other speeds? Am I wrong in my thinking? I hope that the DD6 can hold up to the 116HP/122TQ. I know the Barnett Scorpian Clutch will hold up.
Thanks,
Ltank

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 29, 2012, 01:05:34 AM »

"....Well after info overload and all the help, You have been a great help! I came up with a plan. Buy a Baker DD6 and use the stock 25 tooth motor sprocket and chain.. I went to the Baker site and played with the numbers. It did not explain in detail like you did here. By keeping my stock FXR4 25/36 and 32/65 I will retain a 2.92 sixth gear and the one through five should give what I need at all the other speeds? Am I wrong in my thinking? I hope that the DD6 can hold up to the 116HP/122TQ. I know the Barnett Scorpian Clutch will hold up...."

Ltank~

I know nothing about the DD6 actually, in terms of how much it will cost? Or How much it will cost to install?
I grant you for most guys the cost would be around $900.00 or so to do what I am doing if they must take it to a shop. But then again most guys wouldn't bother doing this modification to begin with. I am doing it because I feel the merits add to the overall specifics of the type of riding I enjoy doing, which is a snappier ride, as well as putting the power band of the way the engine has been built more in line with dynamics of the engine. Of course the reasons are all listed above.

I am choosing to do my own work as I always do on my bikes and it's costing as you see at the top of the THREAD nearly $550.00, of course it could be done for less if you purchased both the rear wheel sprocket used as well as finding a Andrews Transmission Pulley/Sprocket used as well but that is negligible really.

I have not done the research with the Bakers DD6, however I have had some conversations about it in the past on another website with another owner of a 1993 FXLR that was concerned about the way he built his bike and was going down the highway at 3800 RPMS at 85 MPH, he did describe his riding style as riding with "club members" who traveled together at constant speeds of 85 MPH and he felt the RPMS were turning too much for highway miles at such speeds, so he infact put in a DD6 bakers unit.

Here is the interesting part of that discussion, it seems like anytime I go out with people to ride over a 100 mile ride there are 2-3 miles where you are checking the wide open throttle just to see what the bike will do....realizing this means that for 3% of my riding is spent drastically above a normal jaunt down the highway....just for example that would be if you went 7,500 miles a year would be 3 hours out of 100 hours of riding are you really working the engine and in this example you are trying to go as fast as possible.....now let's look at it from another way....

Let's say you put a DD6 in, for the same reasoning as this other rider was doing, to bring the RPMS down at 85 MPH. Looking at the chart above shows that at 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING you would in 5th be doing 3721 RPMS at 85 MPH. (Since our minds like to round numbers this would be seen as 3800 RPMS, Where as at 75 MPH with 3.360:1 FINAL GEARING, you are doing 3315 RPMS (once again, would it be fair to round this up or down, perhaps down, to 3300 RPMS). Say the DD6 was set up with a FINAL GEARING RATIO of 3.360:1 for 5th GEAR, and then rolled it down to say 2.925:1 FINAL GEARING for the "6th Speed" which is where I believe the other rider I have been referring to said would be the results, then looking at the chart above reveals that at 85 MPH there would be a lowering of RPMS down from aprx 3800 RPMS at 85 MPH down to 3271 RPMS or rounded to 3300 RPMS, a lowering of 500 RPMS for highway use. But that is at 85 MPH where this rider said his "club" would spend their time riding down the highway. What's interesting to me about this discussion as it was then and as it is now, in order for the DD6 to work effectively you would have to be going 85 MPH all of the time or else you present the problems that I am trying to step away from initially anyway, for example:

75 MPH 2.925:1 = 2886 RPMS
70 MPH 2.925:1 = 2700 RPMS
65 MPH 2.925:1 = 2500 RPMS

In those RPMS listed above DO you really need a 6th Gear, as offered by a DD6?

With the 3.360:1:
75 MPH = 3315 RPMS
70 MPH = 3094 RPMS
65 MPH = 2873 RPMS

If you look at these numbers carefully you will discover that the OEM gearing 2.925:1 FINAL GEARING in 5th gear in my opinion is too high of gearing which takes you off of the power band of the cam, yet, once we ride over 75 MPH then the merits of a DD6 come in to play. I have already disclosed how often I ride full open throttle which is about 3% of the time if that much, but let's just say it is, for 2-3 miles every aprx 100 miles. At that point you don't care about a DD6 transmission you are just going full open throttle and seeing how the bike performs....or "racing" against the other person for whatever reason.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #17 on:** April 29, 2012, 11:41:56 AM »

So let's turn our attention to steady riding from 80 MPH, this could happen I suppose on a interstate highway posted at 75 MPH for the entire time you were on the highway especially if you could loc in your throttle with a cruise control at 79 MPH. But out here where we are at 85 MPH will get you that ticket for sure.....so I am sure that every state is different for that.

For passing circumstances all any of us wants is the appropriate amount of torque/power at the wick of our throttle....

I am not going down the highway for extended periods of time above 85 MPH, unless I am in wide open spaces....in WYO.

My point is any money spent for a DD6 is counterintuitive to the merits of riding one's bike efficiently and within the power band for the cost associated with it, as can be seen by this demonstration especially when counting the cost.

I am trying to make my bike more snappy and responsive not take away from that.

I guess the ultimate question is what do those riders riding their 89-93 FXR's really think about their riding experiences with the 3.37 FINAL GEARING RATIOS.

I can tell you this, for SURE, 3.37 FINAL gearing works perfectly also in my 2002 RKC going down any highway......and for $550.00 inclusive of the one time purchase of a speciality tool for removing that Transmission PulleySprocket 1 7/8" Nut we will find out the long term results if it is not completely what I feel it will do, for about $45.00 I will return it to the stock OEM gearing + 8 hours of my time for me to tear into it again and go back.

Certainly I am not presenting any of this as a challenge but merely opening the door to people's thoughts.....

Regards,

Tim

ltank · « **Reply #18 on:** May 02, 2012, 08:42:09 AM »

Well I am going to save me alot of money and go with your gearing suggestions. Baker said I had too much motor for the DD6 they suggested the OD6. I did not want a overdrive with my stock gearing. I will keep the 25/36 primary and change from the 32/65 to the 30/70. You listed a Andrews 30 tooth pulley but do you know the part number for a Harley OEM steel pulley for 94-06 years 30 tooth pulley? I also am currious about going to the 1.125" narrower rear belt (136) and 70 tooth 1.125". By chance do you know the part numbers? I dont know if all the different pulleys have the same measurements from the mounting point on rim to the inner edge of the pulley. This would effect the tracking of the belt and alignment. How much power can a 1.125" belt handle? This would also allow a slightly wider tire in the future,,
Thanks Again,
Ltank

ltank · « **Reply #19 on:** May 02, 2012, 02:01:12 PM »

My Mechanic suggested changing the motor sprocket from 25 to 23 I checked with Zippers Performance. they have it for a Softail. The spockets are the same. Waiting for their reply.

ltank · « **Reply #20 on:** May 03, 2012, 08:01:34 AM »

Hi FXR2evo99,
I have been closely studying your work now. I am ready to buy my parts. You posted.

"25T Comp x 36T Clutch Shell Basket X 30T Transmission Pulley/Sprocket x 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket 136T Belt = 3.36 Final Gear"

" * = I know you can purchase a 133T Belt and a 136T Belt from HD, even though the math points to the idea or concept of using a 138T Belt all 1993 and 1994 FXR's use the same belt which is the part number listed above i.e.: HD# 40001-85 which is a 136T Belt so obviously one just needs to set the tension right. The 1989-1993 FXR's have 3.37 Final Gearing and the 1994 FXR's have 3.15 Final Gearing"

From the above I conclude that the older FXR had 30/70 combinations if they used the 136 tooth belts.
I am considering. If I gotta buy new 136 tooth belt and a 30 tranny and a 70 rear wheel that I would go from the stock 1 1/2" width to the narrower 1 1/8" belt and pulleyso a wider rear tire can be done. I reveiwed your other post an this. I figure I to do both at the same time. I talked to my shop guy about this to do ally upgrades at one time.
I will get the Andrews 290306 steel 30 tooth pulley and a Harley 70 tooth 1 1/8" pulley from a Softail and a Harley 40570-04B Rear belt 1 1/8" 136 tooth.
I appreciate you time and effort that gave me through this.
Thanks,
Ltank
S&S makes high strength belts but not a 1 1/8" 136 tooth. I just hope that the HD belt holds up.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #21 on:** May 03, 2012, 07:22:45 PM »

you can change to any sprocket....the reason to stay with numbers like 25 x 26 or 24 x 37 is that you can use the same primary chain which helps to keep costs down.

If you go with a 23 comps sprocket what will you use for the clutch shell sprocket....?

ltank,

you need to talk with a dealer about which 70T rear wheel sprocket that will fit on your bike, you see I believe you have a 1" rear axle. So you have to be very careful to make sure that you get the right sized rear sprocket. No I do not know the part number for a 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket narrow 1 1/8, I am thinking though you could find one that would go with a Dyna model bike, it's just a matter of talking with a Parts guy. On top of that of course you are searching for a narrow rear wheel 70T sprocket which fits a 1" axle.

No actually I don't know the HD# for a 30T HD OEM Tranrsmission Sprocket. I called a local dealership to ask whether HD had made a EVO designed (calling it an "EVO designed" because it would be the vintage of bikes using such a sprocket since it would have needed to be used some where during that era. I know that HD hasn't made one since 2002 or I would have read about it. But when I asked the parts guy he was unaware of whether they ever did. I am not saying he is totally right, but I would think I would have heard about the part at some point. So I will risk saying I am not sure there ever was one made by HD.

lank, you must remember if you change your secondary ratios at all you will throw your "electronic" speedo reading off. The reason an FXR2 or FXR3 can be modified in this way without a speedo recalebration is because both the FXR2 and FXR3 use a speedo drive unit off of the front wheel.

Apparently it's an easy fix to correct the speedo with a re-calibration box. SnS and Dakota Digital both make one.

Depends on where the speedo sensor is getting it's data from. On a HD, the speedo sensor counts gear tooth pulses from 4th gear on the mainshaft. Changing final drive ratios (as in the front trans sprocket from 32 to 30 or rear wheel sprocket from 65 to 70) will alter the pulse count as will changing the tooth shape of 4th gear. Trannies like JIMS 5/6spd and others with full contact gears require the re-calibrator even though the tooth count on 4th gear is the same. Changing engine primary ratios has no effect on the 4th gear mainshaft pulse count relationship and no re-cal is required.

Doing this project becomes a bit more complicated on a FXR4, but nothing that can't be fixed.

Regards,

Tim

ltank · « **Reply #22 on:** May 03, 2012, 10:15:23 PM »

Zippers said their kit will not work on the FXR. S&S said that a measurement of the tranny shaft center to center of rear axle and pulley tooth counts would be needed for his program to get the correct belt. You way makes perfect sense to me. I guess I will remove the outer primary and measure. do you know off hand? I measured my rear axle it is 3/4". I checked with different belt mfg. They said I sould stick with the 1 1/2" belt due to motor size. I just seems it does not want to work out for me no matter how hard I try. As Rosan Rosan Dana (Old Saturday Night Live) said " It's always something"
Thanks,
Ltank

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 05, 2012, 03:19:00 AM »

Zippers said their kit will not work on the FXR. S&S said that a measurement of the tranny shaft center to center of rear axle and pulley tooth counts would be needed for his program to get the correct belt. You way makes perfect sense to me. I guess I will remove the outer primary and measure. do you know off hand? I measured my rear axle it is 3/4". I checked with different belt mfg. They said I sould stick with the 1 1/2" belt due to motor size. I just seems it does not want to work out for me no matter how hard I try. As Rosan Rosan Dana (Old Saturday Night Live) said " It's always something"

Ltank

Here is the part number for my rear axle which would be the same for either the FXR2 or FXR3: 41110--79A. Which is a 3/4" axle so if yours is the same part number then you are right. If you have a different part number it might give credence to being a bigger axle, so check it. I know you are running what are considered "twin cam" brakes on your FXR4 both front and rear, and us FXR2 and FXR3 owners are using "EVO" styled brakes both front and rear which have to do with our axle sizes....

that's right you are running the S&S 111 engine so you probably do need to stick with a wider belt, heck you are probably a close candidate for running chain as a secondary set up. With the kind of horse and torque you are getting.

LOL about Rosan Rosan Dana, lol, indeed we are DATING OURSELVES.....lol.

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #24 on:** May 05, 2012, 03:33:41 AM »

"....I called S&S about getting the correct belt tooth count when changing pulleys. He told me that he needed the measurement from the center of tranny shaft to the center of rear axle along with the tooth count of each pulley I told him I was going from 32 to 30 on tranny and from 65 to 70 on the rear wheel pulley for a difference of 3 tooth to be added to the stock 133 for a 136 count. He said it is not as simpe as a tooth count of the difference between the pulleys!!!
Does any one have the center of tranny shaft to center of rear wheel axle? I contacted Andrew but they have not responded yet...."

Ltank,

I am telling you, if you go from 32T on the transmission pulley down to 30T and you change the rear sprocket and go from 65T to 70T, in this case it is simple math and you have added 3 teeth more than you started with originally and were using a 133T belt. So 133 + 3 = 136 Tooth Belt needed....

Now if you go back and look at all of the FXR's being made from 1984 - 1994, you will find that HD ran a Secondary Belt of 136T (HD# 40001-85) as they were all running a 32T Comp Sprocket and a 70T Rear Wheel Sprocket. Which tells you that our bikes have some room for fitment vs setting the belt tension.

So I agree that it is not just about tooth count it's about a range of value due to the circumferences of the sprocket/pulley combinations that are chosen.

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:43:05 AM »

I THOUGHT I WOULD THROW SOME PHOTOS INTO THIS PROJECT....PLUS THE WEBSITE IS A GOOD SERVER FOR KEEPING WHAT I ACTUALLY DID ON FILE....LOL.....WHICH IS AWESOME....SORT OF A PICTORIAL OF WHAT IS HAPPENING....

BEFORE STARTING THIS I WOULD PUT BIKE IN 5TH GEAR.
LEFT FOOTPEG REMOVED, OUTER PRIMARY REMOVED AND CLEANED, AND BOLTS CLEANED...YES I DID SAY BOLT'S CLEANED.....LOL YEP....THAT'S WHAT I SAID.....LOL

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #26 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:43:26 AM »

PHOTO B: COMPENSATING SPROCKET & CLUTCH SHELL BASKET REMOVED....zip zip zip with the impact wrench....so SIMPLE....no fighting with long "cheater bar".

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #27 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:44:09 AM »

PHOTO C: YOU CAN SEE THE ACCUMULATED RUST ON THE OEM 32T TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY AND THE OLD 133T BELT. ALSO NOTICE THE SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL HAS BEEN LEAKING AS YOU CAN SEE THE RESULTS OF GREASE AROUND THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY AND SEAL. AS ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE INNER PRIMARY....TOOK ME 45 MINUTES TO CLEAN ALL OF THAT UP...PROBABLY MORE, BUT I DON'T WANT TO ADMIT TO THAT.....I GET NUTS ABOUT CLEANING STUFF WHEN I DO A PROJECT.....ALSO IN THIS PHOTO YOU SEE MY SHIFTER SHAFT HANGING THERE, THE THREADS WERE SO TORN UP THAT I ENDED UP HAVING TO STOP MY PROGRESS AND ORDERED 2 MORE OF THESE (HD# 34621--84 "SHIFTER LEVER") AS THEY ARE BECOMING AN OBSOLETE PART NUMBER AND THEY ARE ONLY $50.00 RETAIL. SO I ORDERED FROM REBECCA (TRI-COUNTY HARLEY AND SAVED 20%). MY SHAFT WAS SO MESSED UP I COULDN'T PUSH THE SHIFTER LEVER THAT I JUST ORDERED COMPLETELY ON TO THE SHIFTER LEVER (HOPEFULLY THAT MAKES SENSE) I GOT THEM FOR $42.00 EACH....ONE THING THAT COMES OUT OF THIS I WON'T BE TAKING OFF THAT INSPECTION COVER REQUIRING ME TO REMOVE THE SHIFTER PEG LEVER VERY OFTEN SO I DON'T MESS AROUND WITH THOSE THREADS. TWO SUMMERS AGO BOTH PAUL, MIKEY, AND I HAD SHIFTER LEVER PROBLEMS, IN FACT MIKEYS ALMOST FELL OFF AND I KNOW HE HAS DONE NOTHING TO REPAIR IT, AND THE ONLY THING TO REPAIR IT IS REPLACE IT.....SO JUST REMEMBER PUT THAT ITEM ON GENTLY AND BE CAREFUL NOT TORQUING THOSE BOLTS TOO MUCH....ANYWAY NEW SHIFTER LEVER AND NEW SHIFTER PEG LEVER....OH WELL....HAS DELAYED MY PROGRESS BUT THAT'S OK.....SOMETIMES THAT'S THE WAY THESE PROJECTS WORK!!!

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:45:40 AM »

PHOTO D: THIS PHOTO SHOWS THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY OFF THE BIKE AND HOW GREASY EVERYTHING WAS FROM THE RESULT OF THAT SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL LEAKING OVER TIME....IF YOU DON'T REALIZE IT, THE BLACK IN THE INDENTED PORTIONS OF THE CASTING OF THE TRANSMISSION ARE ACTUALLY POWDERCOATED BLACK, IT'S ONLY THE SURFACE THAT IS SUPPOSE TO BE FREE OF GREASE.....YOU CAN SEE THE EDGE OF THE STATOR COVERING IS PRETTY DIRTY AS WELL....YOU WILL SEE IN A LATER PHOTO HOW I CLEANED THAT UP.....AS I SAID I GET INTO CLEANING WHEN I DO A PROJECT, IT CAN BE VERY FRUSTRATING WITH SOMEONE HELPING ME WORK ON A PROJECT WHEN I WANT TO CLEAN BEFORE MOVING FORWARD, BUT OH WELL.....LOL.
I KNOW NO INDEPENDENT SHOP WILL NEVER DO THIS....THE BACK SIDE OF THE PRIMARY WAS A MESS TOO!!!

YOU CAN ALSO SEE THE SHIFTER SHAFT HANGING THERE....I DISCOVERED LATER AFTER THIS PHOTO THAT THE SPLINES OF THE SHIFTER SHAFT WERE ACTUALLY SMASHED, WHICH WAS HARD TO TELL WITH THE SHIFTER SHAFT BARLEY PROTRUDING THROUGH THE OUTER PRIMARY, I WAS HAVING A HARD TIME WITH MY OLD SHIFTER ANYWAY....HERE JUST RECENTLY I PURCHASED A LONGER SHIFTER PEG AS I AM INSTALLING THE FXRP FLOORBOARDS ON TO MY FXR2 BIKE AND WANTED A LONGER SHIFTER PEG, OEM SIZE IS 6 1/4" LONG AND I PURCHASED AN EXTENDED ONE WHICH IS 8.5" LONG WHICH PUTS THE SHIFTER IN THE RIGHT SPOT WITH THE FLOORBOARD SET UP, WELL AS I WAS JUST PLAYING WITH THAT NEW SHIFTER I NOTICED IT WASN'T SEATING ALL THE WAY ON.....I HADN'T BOTHERED TO TRY TO FORCE IT OR ANYTHING AS I KNEW I WAS PLANNING TO PULL OFF THE OUTER PRIMARY ANYWAY FOR THIS PROJECT AND IT WASN'T UNTIL RIGHT AFTER THESE PHOTOS THAT I REALIZED HOW SMASHED MY SPLINES ON THE SHIFTER SHAFT REALLY WERE....SO SINCE THIS SHIFTER SHAFT PART IS "PENDING" OBSOLETE I DECIDED TO PURCHASE A COUPLE AND KEEP ANOTHER ONE FOR A SPARE, HOPEFULLY I WILL TREAT THE NEW ONE WHEN I GET IT THIS WEEK WITH MORE CARE!!!!!

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:46:04 AM »

PHOTO E: OLD BELT 133T STILL ON, TIRE REMOVED AND PREPARING TO PUT ON NEW 70T REAR WHEEL SPROCKET

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:46:26 AM »

PHOTO F: HERE YOU CAN SEE THE INFAMOUS SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL THAT WAS LEAKING WHICH IS THE CULPRIT OF THE GREASY MESS ON THE BACK OF THE PRIMARY, SOME BEGIN LEAKING SO BAD, GUYS HAVE PUDDLES ON THE FLOOR.....

AS YOU CAN SEE HERE TWO PILOT HOLES THE SIZE OF SAY 5/64" WERE PREVIOUSLY DRILLED AND NOW TWO WOOD TYPE SCREWS SMALL ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE OEM SINGLE LIP OF THE SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL. THE USE OF TWO PLIERS WERE THEN USED AND JUST TO MENTION THIS SEAL WAS TOUGH TO PULL OUT.....IT'S AMAZING HOW WHEN SOMETHING IS TOUGH TO PULL OUT HOW THAT IT CAN STILL LEAK....BUT THIS WAS ANOTHER BONUS OF DOING THE GEAR CHANGE, BEING ABLE TO TAKE CARE OF THIS DELIMA. THIS AS YOU KNOW IS A LOT OF WORK FOR A $7.00 SEAL REPAIR......MOST GUYS WOULD TAKE THIS TO THE SHOP AND PAY AROUND $400.00 JUST TO REPLACE THE SEAL!!!!!!

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:46:49 AM »

PHOTO G: THIS IS A GOOD PHOTO SHOWING THE SURFACE CLEANED UP, AND HOW I PUT BLUE TAPE OVER THE SHARP SPLINES TO KEEP THE SHARP SPLINES FROM TEARING AT THE NEW DOUBLE LIP SEAL. IF YOU NOTICE THE "RED" AROUND THE EDGE OF THE NEW DOUBLE LIP SEAL I PUT IN, APPARENTLY ACCORDING TO THE PROFESSIONAL SEAL SALES GUYS EACH SEAL MANUFACTURER COLOR CODES THEIR SEALS SO WHEN YOU GO IN LOOKING FOR A SEAL THEY WILL KNOW WHICH MANUFACTURER PRODUCED IT. THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN PRIOR TO TAPPING IT IN. RIGHT BELOW THE SEAL'S LOCATION YOU SEE ANOTHER BOLT HOLE AND THE BLACK STUFF AROUND THAT HOLE, LOL I DID CLEAN THAT UP I ASSURE YOU!!!! LOL

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:47:34 AM »

PHOTO H; THIS PHOTO IS SHOWING YOU THAT "DONUT" THAT GOES ON TO PROTECT THE DRIVE SHAFT WHILE TORQUING THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY, A SIDE NOTE THIS "DONUT" ACTUALLY THREADS ON. NOTICE THE NEW 30T TRANSMISSION SPROCKET OF COURSE AS WELL AS THE NEW 136T BELT. ALSO THIS PHOTO SHOWS YOU A GOOD LOOK AT THE RUBBER MOUNT SPACER / ISOLATOR , BY THE TIME THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN THE NEW REAR WHEEL SPROCKET AND BEEN PUT ON THE REAR WHEEL AND THE SWING ARM HAD BEEN REMOVED TO OF COURSE REMOVE THE OLD BELT AND REINSTALL THE NEW 136T BELT.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:47:56 AM »

PHOTO I: THIS PHOTO SHOWS THAT HD# 94137-09 MAINSHAFT DEEP WELL SPROCKET SOCKET 1 7/8" /INCLUSIVE OF THE DONUT. A VERY NICE SOCKET FOR SURE, THAT THING MUST WAY 5 LBS....GEEZ BUT IT IS A PRECISION ORIENTED PIECE OF EQUIPMENT FOR SURE.....AND I AM TELLING YOU.....THE IMPACT WRENCH TAKING OFF THE NUT AND THEN PUTTING IT BACK ON WAS VERY NICE!!!!! YOU DON'T NEED THE OTHER TOOL SUGGESTED BY HARLEY THE TRANSMISSION PULLY LOCKING TOOL IF YOU USE AN IMPACT WRENCH BUT WITHOUT AN IMPACT WRENCH YOU WOULD NEED THAT TOOL AS WELL. I HAVE READ WHERE GUYS HAVE HAD A REAL DIFFICULTY TRYING TO REMOVE THE 1 7/8" NUT WITH JUST A "CHEATER" BAR. IT TOOK THAT IMPACT WRENCH A GOOD 7-8 SECONDS TO BREAK THAT NUT LOOSE...I SUPPOSE 10 YEARS OF HEAT AND SO FORTH MADE THAT BABY PRETTY SOLID. AND YES I KNEW I WAS TURNING IT THE CORRECT WAY! THIS NUT IS LEFT HAND THREAD. I WOULD SAY IF ONE WAS GOING TO USE A CHEATER BAR WHICH IS A VERY SLOW PROCESS MAKE SURE YOU COVER YOUR BIKE...IN CASE THAT TOOL SLIPS OFF ON YOU....I BORROWED THE IMPACT WRENCH FROM MY SON, BUT IT'S MY NEXT TOOL....HE HAS A SIMPLE DEWALT 345T ELECTRIC IMPACT WRENCH....I HAVE USED IT FOR SEVERAL PROJECTS....TIME TO GET ONE OF THESE!!!!

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:48:37 AM »

PHOTO J: SHOWING THE IMPACT GUN I USED....THAT DONUT THAT GOES ON THERE IS THE ONLY WAY YOU COULD REALLY DO THIS....THAT OTHER TOOL THAT THEY SAY YOU NEED TO LOCK THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET/PULLEY IS NOT NEEDED WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.....ONE OF THE SEVERAL SERVICE MANUALS I OWN SPECIFICALLY THE 1993-1994 FXR/FLHT SERVICE MANUAL SAYS TO PUT THE BIKE IN 5TH AND PUSH ON BRAKE.....

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:49:18 AM »

PHOTO K: THIS IS A GREAT PHOTO THAT SHOWS YOU EVERYTHING CLEANED UP AND IT SHOWS YOU ALL THE BOLT HOLES:
2 FOR THE STARTER BOLTS THAT COME FROM THE BACK
1 FOR THE GROUND WIRE AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THE BELT LOOKS TO BE TOUCHING IT.
4 FOR AROUND THE STATOR (2 OF THOSE ARE OUTSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY AND 2 INSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY.
2 BOLTS ONE ON EACH SIDE IN THE INNER PRIMARY.
-----
9 TOTAL BOLTS THAT HOLD THE INNER PRIMARY.

OUR SERVICE MANUAL AND PARTS MANUAL IS WRONG WHEN IT COMES TO THE BOLTS AND LENGTHS OF BOLTS THAT ARE USED HOLDING ON THE INNER PRIMARY....ALL I NEED TO SAY ABOUT THIS IS MAKE SURE YOU TAKE A PIECE OF CARDBOARD AND DRAW OUT THE BOLT PATTERN AND PULL OUT A BOLT THEN PUSH IT INTO A VISIBLE LOCATION THAT MATCHES ON YOUR CARDBOARD AND THEN YOU WON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES....

HERE IS ANOTHER DISCUSSION, OUR 1999 FXR BIKES FROM THE FACTORY HAVE HAD RUBBER SILICON PUT INTO CERTAIN HOLES...AS WELL AS HAVING LOCKING TABS FOR THE INNER PRIMARY BOLTS. HD IN LATER MANUALS STOPPED SUGGESTING OR REQUIRING THE NEED FOR RTV SILICON BEING PUT INTO TO THE INNER PRIMARY HOLES TO PREVENT SEEPAGE OR LEAKING. SO IF YOU HAVE A PROFESSIONAL DO YOUR BIKE YOU HAVE A DELIMA ARE YOU GOING TO PAY HIM TO CLEAN OUT ALL OF THE OLD RUBBER SILICON OUT OF THE THREADED HOLES AS WELL AS OFF THE BOLTS OR NOT WORRY ABOUT IT....PERSONALLY I TOOK THE TIME TO CLEAN EACH BOLT WHICH I DO ANYWAY...WHICH TAKES TIME OF COURSE, THEN THERE IS THE MATTER OF CLEANING THE BOLT HOLES AS WELL. I CLEANED THE BOLT HOLES VERY WELL.....TOOK SOME TIME AND INSTEAD OF USING BLACT RTV SILICON THIS TIME I AM GOING TO USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT WHICH IS A PRODUCT I HAVE USED FOR 8 YEARS ON MY BIKES WITH HUGE SUCCESS, GREAT PRODUCT.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 05, 2012, 09:49:42 AM »

PHOTO L: IN THIS PHOTO YOU SEE MY NEW SPROCKET.....70T 1 1/2" REAR WHEEL SPROCKET....I ALSO DISCOVERED UPON RESEARCH THAT FOR FXR2 OWNERS THAT THE CHROME COVER INSERT TO COVER THE REAR WHEEL SPROCKET IS ACTUALLY STILL BEING PRODUCED, I HAVEN'T DECIDED WHAT MY LONG TERM PLANS ARE AS TO WHETHER I WILL GO BACK TO THE CHROME COVER OR NOT, I BELIEVE FOR THE REST OF THIS TIRE'S LIFE I WILL GO WITH JUST THE BLACK VERSON OF HOW IT COMES....THE HD# 91733-85A IS 8 HOLE CHROME REAR WHEEL SPROCKET COVER FOR $55.00 SHIPPED TO ME. SO FOR NOW SINCE I HAVE ALREADY RED LOCKTITED THE BOLTS AND HAVE THE REAR WHEEL BACK IN THE HOLE I WILL WAIT UNTIL MY NEXT TIRE CHANGE TO PERHAPS PUT ON THE CHROME COVER IF I DECIDE I WANT IT. ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE OPTIONS.....I HAVEN'T HAD ENOUGH TIME TO ADJUST TO WHETHER I LIKE THE BLACK 70T REAR WHEEL SPROCKET "DESIGN" OR WHETHER I WANT IT TO BE CHROMED LIKE THE 65"T OEM WAS.....FXR3 AND FXR4 OWNERS IN THE PAST HAVE NEVER HAD THE ISSUE TO BEGIN WITH SINCE YOU HAD A OEM CHROMED "THUNDERSTAR" REAR WHEEL SPROCKET.....

I JUST REMEMBERED THAT FXR3 OWNERS THAT DECIDE TO GO WITH A 70T REAR WHEEL SPROCKET AND WANT IT TO BE NARROW (1 1/8" BELT) I BELIEVE HD MADE THE "THUNDERSTAR" STYLE REAR WHEEL CHROMED SPROCKET IN A NARROW VERSION WITH 70T, OR MAYBE THAT WAS THE 65" TOOTH VERSION THAT WAS A NARROW BELT STYLED, I CAN'T REMEMBER SINCE I DON'T OWN THE FXR3 BIKE HAVEN'T THOUGHT ABOUT IT MUCH.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #37 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:08:30 AM »

THE NEXT FOUR PHOTOS HAVE BEEN DOWNLOADED AND WERE ROTATED BY THE SOFTWARE PROBABLY BECAUSE THEY ARE TOO TALL..... SO TO ORIENT YOURSELF YOU WILL HAVE TO TURN YOUR HEAD OR DOWN LOAD THE PHOTOS AND ROTATE ON YOUR END....LOL....COMPLICATED...I KNOW!!!

THE ORANGE MALLET WAS USED TO SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION TO REINSTALL THE SWINGARM PIVOT SHAFT, AFTER YOU HAVE REPLACED THE OLD BELT WITH THE NEW ONE AND AFTER YOU HAVE REINSTALLED THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS. SO REINSTALLING THE PIVOT SHAFT MEANS GETTING THE TRANSMISSION AND THE SWING ARM TO MATCH UP AGAIN TO SLIDE THE PIVOT SHAFT BACK THROUGH . IT WAS A VERY EASY PROCESS USING THIS SIMPLE METHOD WITH THE ORANGE MALLET.....

BUT TO GO BACKWARDS HERE A BIT, WHEN YOU ARE TRYING TO REMOVE THE OLD BELT YOU MUST FIRST REMOVE THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS ON BOTH SIDES, WHICH WILL BE REQUIRED TO REMOVE THE BELT FROM THE LEFT SIDE OF THE BIKE, BUT YOU NEED THE ENTIRE SWING ARM TO RELEASE FROM THE TRANSMISSION SO YOU HAVE TO REMOVE BOTH LOWER SHOCK BOLTS....ONCE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS AND PUNCHED OUT THE SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT THE SWING ARM WILL FALL AWAY FROM THE TRANSMISSION AND AT THE SAME TIME THE TRANSMISSION WILL DROP SEVERAL INCHES, HOWEVER, USING THE ORANGE MALLET CAN KEEP THE TRANSMISSION FROM DROPPING SEVERAL INCHES WITH THE MANIPULATION OF THE BIKE BEING ON A FLOOR JACK WHERE YOU CAN RAISE THE BIKE INDEPENDENT OF THE TRANSMISSION WHILE USING THE ORANGE MALLET AS A INDEPENDENT LEVERAGE POINT.

I WOULD EITHER HAVE CARPET ON THE FLOOR OR CARDBOARD TO HELP PROTECT THAT SWING ARM WHEN IT DROPS....IT WOULDN'T HURT TO HAVE 4 HANDS DURING THIS PART OF THE PROCEDURE, WHEN THAT SWING ARM DROPS IT'S PRETTY HEAVY AND AWKWARD AND REMEMBER YOU HAVE THE REAR CALIPER THAT WANTS TO FALL OFF AS WELL....SO YOU WANT TO BE COGNIZANT OF KEEPING THAT FROM BANGING ON THE FLOOR, WHEN THIS SWING ARM DROPS ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU ARE GOING TO GO OH CRAP...LOL AND REALIZE YOUR PREDICAMENT.....THAT'S WHY ANOTHER SET OF HANDS CAN HELP...BECAUSE ALL YOU WANT TO DO IS PULL THAT SWING ARM OFF LONG ENOUGH TO GET THE OLD BELT OUT AND REINSTALL THE NEW ONE.....ONCE YOU GET THE NEW BELT AROUND THE TRANSMISSION SPROCKET, THEN YOU ARE READY TO TRY TO GET THE SWING ARM BACK TOGETHER...BUT REMEMBER YOU NEED TO PUT ANTISEIZE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT....AND CHECK THE INNER PARTS IE: WAVE NYLON WASHERS, THE RUBBER MOUNTED SPACER/ISOLATORS BEFORE JUST PUTTING IT BACK TOGETHER....SO AS YOU CAN SEE YOUR INCLINATION IS TO HURRY AND GET IT ALL BACK TOGETHER BUT RUSHING TO DO SO WILL KEEP YOU FROM SEARCHING OUT THE INTERNALS OF THE SWING ARM AND THEIR CONDITION.

JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND GET THE CONCEPT HERE AND YOU WILL FIGURE OUT YOUR BEST ORDER OF DOING THINGS....IT'S JUST THAT AT THIS STAGE A LOT IS HAPPENING....THE SWING ARM REMOVAL AND BELT INSTALLATION IS EASIER DONE WITH 4 HANDS.....BUT NOT IMPOSSIBLE TO BE DONE BY ONLY TWO. AS IN MOST THINGS AFTER YOU HAVE DONE THIS ONCE IT BECOMES A LOT CLEARER AND EASIER AS WELL.

JUST REMEMBER YOU CAN REMOVE THE PIVOT SHAFT WITHOUT REMOVING THE LOWER SHOCK BOLTS BUT THE SWING ARM WILL NOT LOWER OR FALL WAY UNTIL YOU DO SO BUT YOU CAN NOT REMOVE THE SECONDARY BELT OR PUT THE NEW ONE ON UNLESS YOU ALLOW THAT SWING ARM TO FALL AWAY. THE TRANSMISSION HOWEVER, WILL INDEED DROP DOWN A COUPLE OF INCHES JUST ENOUGH TO MISALIGN PUTTING THE PIVOT SHAFT BACK THROUGH IF REMOVED UNLESS YOU INDEPENDENTLY SUPPORT THE TRANSMISSION (WHEN REMOVING THE PIVOT SHAFT) WHICH BRINGS US TO THE MERITS OF THE ORANGE MALLET WHICH CAN BE USED TO CONTROL THE TRANMISSIONS HEIGHT VIA USING YOUR FLOOR JACK TO RAISE OR LOWER THE BIKE INDEPENDENTLY.

whew

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:09:00 AM »

THE "WAVEY" LOOKING WASHER THAT YOU SEE WITH THE SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT COMING THROUGH IT IS THE NYLON SPACER WASHER WHICH IS A VERY THIN PLASTIC WASHER IT SEALS THE INTERNALS OF THE PIVOT SHAFT FROM DEBRIE I DISCOVERED THAT ONE OF MINE WAS PRETTY SHRADED SO I REPLACED ONE OF THEM THE OTHER ONE WAS FINE.....EVEN AFTER 13 YEARS. THE SERVICE MANUAL CALLS FOR PUTTING ANTISEIZE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT AXLE WHICH I DID AS WELL.

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:09:33 AM »

CLOSE UP PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:10:09 AM »

CLOSE UP PHOTO SHOWING THE ISOLATOR IN POSITION, ALSO REFERRED IN YOUR PARTS BOOK AS A SPACER, AND THE SERVICE MANUAL AS A RUBBER MOUNT. DIFFERENT NAMES BUT ALL THE SAME PART, SO CALL IT THE RUBBER MOUNT ISOLATOR SPACER.....LOL

PHOTO NEEDS TO BE ROTATED

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:21:50 AM »

Will save this spot for some comments for later

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 05, 2012, 10:22:16 AM »

will save this spot for some comments for later

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 05, 2012, 12:17:30 PM »

TO DO THIS PROJECT THERE ARE APPROXIMATELY 35 DIFFERENT TORQUE VALUES....IT TOOK ME 3-4 HOURS OF RESEARCH JUST TO ACCUMULATE THESE VALUES READING THROUGH THE MANUAL....YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW FRUSTRATING TO BE IN THE SHOP IS AND TO SAY NOW WHAT'S THAT TORQUE VALUE FOR THIS BOLT AND THEN TRY TO FIND IT.....SO HERE ARE SOME TORQUE VALUES:TORQUE VALUES FOR THE FOLLOWING;

REAR WHEEL SPROCKET BOLTS:
APPLY RED LOCKTITE
45-55 FT-LBS TORQUE

REAR WHEEL AXLE
CASTLE NUT: (THE NUT THAT HAS THE COTTER PIN GO THROUGH IT)
DO NOT EXCEED 65 LBS OF TORQUE BECAUSE OF WHEEL BEARING SEIZING
TIGHTEN CASLE NUT TO 60 FT-LBS TORQUE AND CHECK TO SEE IF THE COTTER PIN CAN BE INSTALLED. IF REQUIRED TIGHTEN CASTLE NUT JUST ENOUGH TO ALIGN AXLE HOLE AND CASTLE NUT SLOTS, BUT DO NOT EXCEED 65 FT-LBS MAXIMUM TORQUE.

BOTTOM SHOCK BOLTS;
APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT TO BOLTS & 35-45 FT LBS TORQUE

PRIOR TO INSTALLATION OF INNER PRIMARY:

TRANSMISSION PULLEY:
REVERSE THREADS MEANING IT GOES ON COUNTERCLOCKWISE/LEFT HAND THREADS:
APPLY A DROP OF RED 262 LOCTITE ON TRANSMISSION PULLEY NUT THEN TIGHTEN WITH IMPACT WRENCH TO A MAXIMUM OF 150LBS TORQUE
PAGE 6-13 FXR2 MANUAL SAYS DO NOT TIGHTEN THE TRANSMISSION PULLEY/SPROCKET TO MORE THAN 150 FT-LBS TORQUE

INTERESTING TO SEE WHAT DIFFERENT MANUALS SAID THROUGHOUT THE YEARS FOR EXAMPLE:
1993-1994 FLT/FXR SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-7 SAYS:
APPLY A DROP OF 262 RED LOCTITE AND TIGHTEN 110-120 FT-LBS BUT NEVER
TORQUE ABOVE 150 FT-LBS

TRANSMISSION PULLEY/SPROCKET LOCKPLATE ALLEN HEAD SCREWS:
THE SOCKET HEAD SCREWS HD# 3594 ALREADY HAVE A LOCKING COMPOUND THAT ALLOWS THEM TO BE REUSED UP TO THREE TIMES THE 4TH TIME THE SCREWS ARE REMOVED, REPLACE WITH NEW SCREWS. OR IN MY CASE CLEAN THEM UP AND USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT.
APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT
THEN TIGHTEN SCREWS TO 84-108 IN-LBS OR 7-9 FT-LBS TORQUE

SHIFTER ROD LEVER SOCKET HEAD SCREW:
LOCATED ON SPLINES IN FRONT OF SHIFTER SHAFT SEAL
MAKE SURE THAT YOU LINE UP WHERE THE LEVER WAS BEFORE WITH THE SCORING DONE PRIOR TO REMOVAL.
TIGHTEN SCREW TO 18-21 FT-LBS TORQUE

INNER PRIMARY INSTALLATION (9 BOLTS IN ALL):
INNER PRIMARY CHAIN CASE BOLTS (4);
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
  MAKE SURE O~RING IS IN POSITION
  MAKE SURE YOU HAVE REPLACED TWO OTHER SEALS;
  STARTER JACKSHAFT SEAL AND INNER PRIMARY MAINSHAFT OIL SEAL

INSTALL BOTH OUTER BOLTS AND WASHERS TO THE FRONT OF THE BIKE WHICH ARE OUTSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY THEN INSTALL THE TWO BOLTS WITH LOCKTABS INSIDE THE INNER PRIMARY AND TIGHTEN ALL FOUR BOLTS IN THE PATTERN BELOW 18-21 FT LBS TORQUE. PUT RTV/AVIATION GASKET CEMENT ON BOTH INTERIOR PRIMARY BOLTS.

3 2
   6
   5

1 4

INNER PRIMARY CHAIN CASE BOLTS (2)
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
3” LONG INTO THE INNER PRIMARY LOCATION (NUMBER 5 & 6 ABOVE)
APPLY RTV/AVIATION GASKET CEMENT TO THESE 2 ADDITIONAL BOLTS AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTS TO 18-21 FT LBS TORQUE.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 05, 2012, 12:18:21 PM »

STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS (2):
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 5-16
INSTALL THE TWO STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS AND WASHERS INTO THE BACK OF THE INNER PRIMARY FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE BIKE. APPLY AVIATION GASKET CEMENT THEN TIGHTEN STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS TO 13-21 FT-LBS.

GROUND CABLE BOLT (1):
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 6-24
TO BE INSTALLED WITH APPROPRIATE WASHER AND LOCKWASHER AND TIGHTENED TO 18 - 21 FT LBS TORQUE.

STARTER JACKSHAFT:
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 5-27
BE SURE THE LOCKPLATE PROTRUSION IS STICKING INTO THE KEYWAY.
PAGE 5-28 LOOK AT FIGURE 5-31
TO PROPERLY INSTALL JACKSHAFT;
INSTALL JACKSHAFT LOCKPLATE AND BOLT. HOLD PINION GEAR IN PLACE AND TIGHTEN JACKSHAFT BOLT TO 84-108” IN-LBS TORQUE. BEND TAB ON LOCKPLATE AGAINST FLAT OF BOLT HEAD TO SECURE.

INSTALL COMPENSATING SPROCKET AND SHAFT EXTENSION ASSEMBLY, CHAIN, CLUTCH SHELL BASKET AS A SINGLE ASSEMBLY . THE CLUTCH HUB AND SHAFT EXTENSION ARE SPLINED, SO A SLIGHT ROTATION OF THE CHAIN DRIVE WIL AID IN THE LINING UP OF THE SPLINES.

PLACE SLIDING CAM OVER SHAFT EXTENSION. SLIDE SPROCKET COVER OVER SLIDING CAM.

PLACE TRANSMISSION IN 5TH GEAR AND APPLY REAR BRAKE.

APPLY 2 DROPS OF 262 RED LOCTITE TO THE THREADS OF THE COMPENSATING SPROCKET NUT AND TIGHTEN IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION 1 1/2” SOCKET 150-165 FT-LBS TORQUE.

APPLY 2 DROPS OF 262 RED LOCTITE TO THE THREADS OF THE CLUTCH SHELL BASKET HUB MAINSHAFT NUT. INSTALL NUT AND HAND TIGHTEN IN A COUNTERCLOCKWISE DIRECTION 1 3/16” SOCKET 70-80 FT LBS TORQUE.

CHAIN TENSIONER BOLTS:
   FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 1-27
   FREE PLAY IN THE UPPER STRAND SHOULD BE 5/8” - 7/8” WITH COLD ENGINE
CENTER BOLT NUT: 21-29 FT LBS

CHAIN TENSIONER SHOE BOTTOM 2 BOLTS
NO TORQUE NUMBERS PROVIDED

CLUTCH SHELL BASKET/CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT:
CLUTCH ADJUSTER SCREW:
CLUTCH ADJUSTER JAM NUT TIGHTEN TO 72’-120” IN-LBS TORQUE


REAR SWING ARM PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) INSTALLATION:
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 2-70

THE PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) GETS COATED WITH ANTISEIZE

SLIDE RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATER) ONTO PIVOT SHAFT. THE SMALL DIAMETER BOSS ON THE RUBBER MOUNT MUST FACE OUTWARD WITH THE PIN HOLD AT THE TOP (SO THAT IT ALIGNS WITH THE PIN CAST IN THE PASSENGER FOOTBOARD/REAR SWING ARM BRACKET END CAPS

SLIDE NYLON SPACER (HD# 47513-80) ONTO PIVOT SHAFT WITH SMALLER DIAMETER BOSS FACING INSIDE TOWARD THE SWING ARM.

FROM THE RIGHT SIDE OF BIKE INSERT PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE) INTO SWING ARM AND TRANSMISSION MOUNT.

ON LEFT SIDE OF BIKE, INSTALL NYLON SPACER (HD# 47513-80), RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) AND CUP WASHER ONTO PIVOT SHAFT (AXLE), INTSALL NUT UNTIL FINGER TIGHT. REMEMBER TO PROPERLY ORIENT THE LEFT SIDE RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) AND NYLON SPACER AS PREVIOUSLY DESCRIBED.

HOLD RIGHT SIDE NUT ON THE PIVOT SHAFT AND TIGHTEN LEFT SIDE PIVOT SHAFT LOCKNUT TO 40-45 FT-LBS TORQUE

OBSERVING “LEFT” AND “RIGHT” STAMP ON CASTING, INSTALL REAR SWING ARM END CAP BRACKETS FITTING THE CAST PIN IN RUBBER MOUNT (ISOLATOR) HOLE.

INSTALL TWO BOLTS WITH LOCKWASHERS TO SECURE END CAP BRACKETS TO BIKE FRAME. TIGHTEN SWING ARM END CAP BRACKET BOLTS TO 34-42 FT LBS TORQUE.

NOTE:
REMOVE THE DECORATIVE CHROME PLUGS IN THE REAR SWINGARM END CAP BRACKETS AND CHECK TORQUE ON THE PIVOT SHAFT LOCKNUT EVERY 5,000 MILES

DRIVE BELT TENSION
FXR2 SERVICE MANUAL PAGE 1-34:
CHECK THAT THE DRIVE BELT TOP STRAND DEFLECTS 3/8” - 1/2” WHILE APPLYING 10 LBS OF FORCE UPWARD

10 OUTER PRIMARY SCREWS (10): 9FT LBS
CLUTCH INSPECTION COVER/DERBY COVER (5): 9FT LBS
PRIMARY CHAIN INSPECTION COVER SCREWS (4) WHERE OUR SHIFTER COMES THROUGH: 9 FT LBS

BE CAREFUL YOU CAN STRIP THESE SCREWS EASILY 9 FT LBS IS ALSO EQUAL TO 108 IN-LBS SO DON'T EXCEED THIS MUCH.

I PERSONALLY USE AVIATION GASKET CEMENT ON MY BOLTS WHENEVER BLUE LOCTITE IS CALLED FOR AS A SUBSTITUTE TO KEEP CORROSION FROM OCCURING....IT'S A GREAT PRODUCT MADE BY PERMATEX CAN GET IT A NAPA. IT'S ALSO REFERRED TO AS FORM A GASKET....

THE OUTER PRIMARY SCREWS CAN BE STRIPPED EASILY BY CORROSION SO USING THIS PRODUCT CAN BE A TREMENDOUS BENEFIT.....

Fxr4Rider · « **Reply #45 on:** May 06, 2012, 10:45:38 PM »

Thanks for the wealth of information

ltank · « **Reply #46 on:** May 07, 2012, 08:51:52 AM »

This is my final figures and plan. I can go 24 tooth motor with 36 clutch hub(one tooth smaller should allow me to keep the same primary chain) and the Andrews 30 tooth pulley and keep the stock 65 tooth pulley and belt. Using the formula 36/24 =1.5 65/30 = 2.166 1.5 x 2.166 3.249 Final Ratio a little higher than the 94 FXR but lower than the others. Is this a good compromise?

My stock belt 133 tooth with 32/65 the rear axle was about 1/4" from being all the way forward. Using the 30 tooth pulleythere is alot of room for the axle to be moved back for the correct tension.
Andrews installation notes
"Rear axle position adjustment for each tooth change on transmission sprocket = +/- .125" (3.2mm)"
"Rear axle position adjustment for each tooth in belt length = +/- .280" (7.1mm)"
This will save the cost of a new belt and a new rear pulley cost about 400 bucks. The 30 tooth has been purchased and this leaves only the new 24 tooth motor sprocket. I already bought the elec speedo recal unit from Dakoda Digital
Wish me Luck! The way things go sometimes, I will need it!!!
Thanks,
Ltank

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 08, 2012, 01:35:16 PM »

ltank,

I have heard of guys going 24/26 for the primary in their twin cam touring bikes over the years, when they do this they talk about flipping the shoe tensioner in the primary....or other wise it is too tight.....which is the dilemma of what you are about to do.

I can offer you no technical advice on the merits of the success or failure of what you are about to embark on, since I have never done it.....

I wish you well with your efforts!!!

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #48 on:** May 08, 2012, 01:42:04 PM »

Well my shifter shaft lever that comes through the back of the primary should be here today so I can finally begin reassembly of my Primary, and get my primary reassembled and completed. So I can actually report on my findings.

Regards,

Tim

ltank · « **Reply #49 on:** May 08, 2012, 02:38:26 PM »

Going from a 25 to a 24 motor sprocket should not be a big deal. The tensioner has plenty oof room to be adusted upward to remove the excess slack caused by the smaller pulley. My Mechanic has a 24 tooth in his EVO FLH.

This is from the Baker site" Over the years, the factory used two primary drive ratios. The 37/24 (1.54 ratio) was used from 1985-93. From 1994 and up the 36/25 (1.44 ratio) was used, except for the 1999-up fuel injected FLTs which have the 1.54 ratio for improved acceleration." Sprocket section. 21 / 22/ 23 tooth motor comp sprockets.

Baker has their primary chain section" Changing the compensating sprocket size or the clutch basket size will require a new length chain. Call our tech dept to talk about the best combination for your application." They have three length primary chains listed for FXR/FLT/FLH . 74 tooth (two links smaller), 76 link STOCK and 78 link chain( two links longer.) Going 2 tooth smaller motor comp sprocket would require a shorter primary. But I am only decreasing by one tooth I am sure I will be OK.

I will be using a 36/24 that equates to (1.5 ratio) on the primary it falls in the middle of the two ratios above. I think the stock 76 link chain will work fine for only one tooth difference.

When I get it all done for my birthday next month I will post how it works after I ride it a few thousand miles.This way I will know what I am talking about.

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #50 on:** May 10, 2012, 11:33:26 PM »

Finally my shifter rod showed up that I ordered, and because they are now "pending obsolete" I went ahead and ordered two of them, so here we go installing the small Spacer.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #51 on:** May 10, 2012, 11:41:41 PM »

Showing the sliding cam being installed....

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 10, 2012, 11:50:34 PM »

Notice their are 2 spacers one is aprox 1/8" thick and is a hexicon the other is a round spacer and is .0250" thick or nearly a 1/4" thick…and their position is next to the rotor. Pay special attention as to which one you will put inboard or out board of the other….if your bike has never been opened and the compensating sprocket and clutch shell basket NEVER removed simply put back together as you found it….I did mine this way because of looking at page 22 and page 40 of my 1999 FXR2 Parts Book, however reversing them would be acceptable as well.

REMEMBER to APPROPRIATELY clean the Compensating Sprocket Nut very well of the old Red Loctite before placing a couple of NEW drops of 263 Red Loctite on the threads of the Compensating Sprocket Nut before installing with a electric impact wrench

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 11, 2012, 12:06:15 AM »

If you haven't been in your primary yet and you have ever removed the inspection cover to fill the primary with primary fluid, you will realize just how difficult it is to remove that cover since that's where the shifter shaft comes through. This is also the location that you would adjust the shoe tensioner. I went ahead and set the shoe tensioner at 5/8" which is more on the tight side but that way I can keep from having to worry about the tension for the primary chain, keeping me from entering that area and pulling the shifter on and off, given that they are no longer making this shaft anything I can do to keep from having to mess around with the shifter I am all for!!!

If you look carefully you will see 4 straight screws secured into the inner primary which I use to momentarily hold the gasket in place and then reattach the outer primary.

[NOTE: Please remember that putting your curser next to the paper clip icon below the photo will allow you to enlarge the photo plus save it to your computer if you desire OR if you merely wish to see it enlarged simply put your curser on the photo and "LEFT" click and it will enlarge]

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #54 on:** May 11, 2012, 01:57:08 AM »

Today put the bike on the highway.....for about 175 miles.

So far the top speed is 111 miles per hour but there was more throttle left....not too much but there was some left.

The cam I have installed and now the gearing package is working very well together. 5th gear has become very responsive.

The bike is quicker, more responsive, and I feel no negative additional vibration.

I like 3.360 final gearing for this bike.

If one were to study the gearing of 2.925 carefully you would see that 4th gear matches up to the 5th gear of 3.360. Effectively what happens with 2.925 Final Gearing is that you end up having 5th gear being an "over drive" gear...and effectively using 4 gears to enjoy the bike....

My issue with 2.925 is that I can go into 5th gear sooner and make all of the gears more responsive.

I will provide more analysis later.

Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #55 on:** May 11, 2012, 10:46:16 AM »

will save this for posting something else later.....

ltank · « **Reply #56 on:** May 30, 2012, 02:47:53 PM »

Well I bought all the parts and they will be installed next week! Motor sprocker was changed from 25 to 24. Tranny changed from 32 to 30. Rear wheel changed from 65 to 68. Branch wanted a 3.5 ratio. Stock was 3.37 on early FXRs but 99 and 2000 was 2.925 on the overgeared 5 sppeds. with the changes I made the numbers are.
36/24 = 1.5 68/30 = 2.266 2.66 x 1.5 = 3.4 Ratio on the 5 speed but when adding a Rivera Primo Overdrive gear set it retains the 3.4 in 5th but 6th gear makes. (x .86 = 2.924 Just over Stock.001) My new 6th gear equalls the tall 5 speed final gearing. The V111 motor should be happy. I will now be a able to drive between 60 and 75 easier without all the extra shifting and always in my power bannd without having to downshift (dont want to lugg the motor). Added a the Barnett Scorpian Clutch, Baker throwout bearings and High Torque inner primary bearing. I have the Dakoda Digital speedo recal. Big reliable motor with good 1st through 5th and a .86 Overdrive to retain my highway gearing. Went with the 1.125" S&S high Strength Rear Belt. Did I miss some thing? After it is installed and put a least 2,000 miles on new setup, I will let everyone know how it came out.
Thanks
Ltank

ltank · « **Reply #57 on:** July 16, 2012, 01:15:40 PM »

I put almost a 1,000 miles on the on the new Primo-Rivera OverDrive gear set along with the 25 tooth motor sprocket (tried the 24 but I like the 25 better) with the 36 tooth clutch basket. The tranny has a 30 tooth and the rear wheel has a 68 tooth 1.125" belt and pulley. S&S said their new belt will handle the 124 just fine, so I bought it.
The tranny shifts smooth with no gear whine or noise. The gear set was beefy. The local shop was impressed with it. The only problem was the neutral light did not ground to the shift drum not completing the circuit to make the neutral light work. A slight mod to the thickeness of the washer under the switch solved the problem and it fine.
The old 5 speed was in great shape but I wanted better gearing for around town and small two lane scenic roads where I live. It is all working together with the S&S V111.
All I can say is WOW!!!!!!!!!WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! What a thrill to ride!
On the Barnett Scorpian Clutch I had to put 6 green springs( 82 lbs each = 492 lbs max for racing was 6 red springs for 600 lbs) in to prevent the clutch from slipping when I twist the throttle above 4300 RPM. Bike has 116 HP@5600 RPM and 122FT.LBS@ 3800 RPM. 1st gear has a 2.94 ratio and 6th OD is a.86 ratio.
36/25= 1.44 clutch/motor, wheel/tranny 68/30=2.266, 1.444 x 2.266= 3.264 final ratio on 5th gear. 6th gear is 2.80 the Stock bike was 2.925.
The bike has the power to pull it just fine even riding two up with gear. The number from the Baker gearing site confirms close what I am actually getting.
http://www.bakerdrivetrain.com/oldgearratios/rpmCalc.htm
Stock was 80 MPH @3100 RPM now with Big Motor and 6 Speed 80 PMH is at 3K RPM.
I Really Really Really like it a whole lot!!!!!!!!!!!!!! My wife can't wipe this smile off my face no matter how Mad she makes me at times!!!

Ltank

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 21, 2012, 01:23:57 AM »

Itank~

CONGRATULATIONS~~~~

It's sweet when we reach the mountain top with our journey....

Your HP and Torque are crazy stuff for sure.....that's a lot of horsepower and torque for a 565 lb bike.....do you keep the front wheel on the ground MOST of the TIME ? ? ?

And I would say with that kind of speed you are flying in rarified air, where WHEN you do smile there aint no bugs up there.....so your TEEFFERS keep CLEAN TOO!!!!

Regards,

"Classic"

ltank · « **Reply #59 on:** July 22, 2012, 09:38:51 PM »

Well I have not wheelied yet. My friend Mike has a 89 FXLR lowrider with stock 31 degree rake. Progressive 940 shocks and the Harley cartrige 39mm front end.
His bike wheelies all the time. He has a Hopped up Ultima 120" with 133HP 141 TQ. He smokes me but its OK. I can still scare myself. He has problems keeping his front wheel on the ground. His bike geometry makes it wheelie easily. He said the 13.5" shock dont squat down under hard accelleration. but he has gobs of power. My bike is louder than his thunder headers untill we hit 3800 rpm then he smokes me and his bike is louder at that point.
Ltank

Thermodyne · « **Reply #60 on:** September 28, 2012, 08:18:45 PM »

FXR2evo99 Have you addressed the electronic speedometer yet?

I just went from a 93 Convertible to a 00 FXR4. The gearing on the 93 made it a much peppier scooter. So I see a sprocket change in my future. Primary changes won't affect the speedo, but anything in the final drive will cause a miscount by the sensor.

ltank · « **Reply #61 on:** September 28, 2012, 09:55:51 PM »

You can change the motor sprocket and the speedo will be fine. If you change the tranny or rear wheel sprockets you will need a recal unit.
Ltank

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #62 on:** October 05, 2012, 03:53:50 AM »

Quote from: Thermodyne on September 28, 2012, 08:18:45 PM

FXR2evo99 Have you addressed the electronic speedometer yet?

I just went from a 93 Convertible to a 00 FXR4. The gearing on the 93 made it a much peppier scooter. So I see a sprocket change in my future. Primary changes won't affect the speedo, but anything in the final drive will cause a miscount by the sensor.

My speedo on my FXR2 and as well as on FXR3's is mechanical speedo meaning it is a gear driven unit from a cable off of the front tire.

If you change anything on yours with you having a "electronic" speedo for the 2000 FXR4's with regard to gearing, you are right changing the transmission sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket as I did on my alteration will require that you also recal your sensor, since the speedo uses the information from a sensor coming off of the information from your transmission pulley and the rear wheel sprocket, so it becomes a bit trickier....

The problem with only a primary change (compensating sprocket [25T down to 24T] and clutch shell basket [36T up to 37T]) is that given that the transmission pulley is 32 tooth and the rear wheel sprocket is 65 tooth, you still won't pick up enough benefit without then doing them both, where as if you only concentrate on the transmission pulley [32T down to 30T] and the rear wheel sprocket [65T up to 70T] you can get from 2.925 (Very Tall Gearing) final gearing to 3.36 (shorter gearing) final gearing which is a bigger result than leaving the transmission pulley and rear wheel sprocket alone and only concentrating on the compensating sprocket from 25 to 24 and the clutch shell basket from 36 up to 37 tooth.

Just some ideas.....

Regards,

Tim

Thermodyne · « **Reply #63 on:** April 28, 2014, 10:57:04 AM »

OK, time to revisit this.

In doing the research for lowering the final ratio on my 2000 -4, I found that there was going to be an issue with the rear sprocket. The MoCo does not make a 1.5 x 70 sprocket to fit the 2K axle/wheel used on these scooters. So that left me with a high dollar aftermarket rear sprocket or re machining a sprocket from a earlier FXR. Which means I would be at the mercy of the machine shop while my scooter was sitting on the jack. And I was still going to have to address the electronic speedo.

I decided to rethink the whole thing. So I sat down with the calculator and then went over to see what Baker had as far as primary gears. Turns out they had just what I needed. A 21 tooth compensator sprocket. 21/36x32/65 takes me to 3.48 final. And all I have to do is open the primary and change the motor sprocket and chain.

So all that remains now is to decide weather or not I'll need to do anything to the clutch. I'm thinking that it can handle the increase in torque as is. It's like 17% or about a 10 pound increase in torque. Any opinions on this out there?

ltank · « **Reply #64 on:** May 02, 2014, 11:11:07 PM »

If I remenber my FXR4 has a 3/4" rear axle. I have had several rear pulleys as I experimented with gear ratios. What is on paper dont always
feel right when your riding it. I did have to get the spacing behind the pully machined on two different pulleys but the bolt patters were the same. Stock was 1.5" x 65 tried 1.125 x 68 then went to 1.125 x 65 again. I run 25/36 and 30/65 for 3.12 5th but then I shift into 6th
with a over drive gear set Primo Rivera .86 6th gear gives me a final ratio of 3.12x.86=2.68 . I like it. Its a little taller than the stock 5 speed with a 2.925 but I got 118 HP@ 5600RPM ande 123TQ 2@ 3800 RPM the 6 speed changed my rpms to a better level around town but
when on the interstate running 83 mph at 3000rpm

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #65 on:** May 07, 2014, 02:05:46 PM »

.
.
"..I was going through my old magazines the other day and remembered this article from march 85 motorcyclist.Stock bottom end,Branch #4 heads,sifton ev2 cam,44mm mikuni flatslide,branch modified manifold,ign module,and supertrapp mufflers=102hp 92lb-ft.I'm new to Harleys,but I remember reading that article as an 18 yo kid and thinking holy chit,that's a runner.I read it now,and I think,that's not possible!......or is it?.."

MAY 7th, 2014 UPDATE OF GEARING MODIFICATION PERSONAL R&D FINDINGS:

Hello everyone…..

Well this project has taken on a life of it's own….here we are exactly two years later since putting the 3.37 FINAL GEARING into my 1999 FXR2.

The engine build itself that I did combined with the gearing modification has taken a couple of years to assist me in getting a more clear concise thought around this idea of a gearing change for the 1999 FXR2's FXR3's and FXR4's.

The quote above was a recent one made on another forum and I thought I would take a moment within that forum to write up a response of my thoughts…which seems appropriate also for this THREAD as well.

I believe there are several elements that go into the thought process of gearing modifications and engine modifications on any bike, and given serious considerations to the style of riding I find myself doing….I have reached the following conclusions:

Here is my summary of the thought….

Back in the day, and I am not sure exactly when…..might even date back to 1985, but I know for certain all FXR's were running with 3.37 final gearing from specifically 1989 to 1993 then in 1994 HD introduced 3.15 gearing….and of course the only production FXR produced in 1995 was the police version also produced with 3.15 final gearing. Then in 1999-2000 the FXR2, FXR3, and FXR4 were produced offering 2.925 final gearing.

The OEM HD evo engine came out of the box rated with 55 HP and 65 lbs of Torque.

I believe the logic of the 3.37 final gearing was to give the bikes more power with that stock engine….since they were somewhat underpowered.

Over the past couple of years I have messed with my 1999 FXR2 and have finally got an engine I feel very comfortable with when it comes to reliability, quickness, and over all power….we all know that FXR frame is a nice frame and at least for my FXR2 comes in at roughly 565 lbs wet. So it is definitely a lighter HD "Sport" Touring framed bike.

I am sure guys can get 100 HP and 100 lbs of Torque out of these engines….as has been extended by previous experiences….makes you wonder at what cost and expense and reliability….but the merits of an FXR featuring 100+ Horsepower could be a topic to itself yet in some ways applies to the overall gearing ideas as well.

Basically I have built an engine that has now recorded 84 HP and 94 lbs Of Torque….and originally I was running with the OEM final gearing of 2.2925 final gearing which is a taller gearing than even 3.15 final gearing. Either HD had a lot of parts laying around to place into about 2800 bikes with 2.925 final gearing (which includes a 25 Tooth Comp Sprocket and a 36 Tooth clutch shell basket and a 32 Tooth trans pulley and a 133 belt and a 65 Tooth rear wheel pulley/sprocket) or they felt because of marketing they wanted to promote 50 miles per gallon on a stock bike. The softails during this time were also running 2.295 final gearing and so were the international bikes because of euro highway speeds.

One thing guys could do as a point of reference and less expense is consider a change with their gearing on these bikes.

My experience has shown me however having run the OEM 2.925 final gearing with the stock engine on my FXR2 and having run the 3.36 final gearing with the FXR2 last summer for 6000 miles (by changing the transmission pulley from 32 Tooth down to the Andrews 30 Tooth and then going up in belt size to a 136 Tooth belt and then finding 70 Tooth rear wheel pulley/sprocket [arriving at 3.36 final gearing]) I have found that the vibrations at speed with the more developed power of the engine which I created from taking the OEM EVO stock engine from 55 HP and 65 Lbs of Torque to 84 Horsepower and 94 Lbs of Torque was causing me to search for a 6th gear at highway speeds on the FXR2.

As a matter of reference, I did find this very intriguing….since I have been running 3.37 final gearing in my 2002 RKC with 100HP and 107 lbs of Torque for nearly 6 years now without any issues at all in terms of looking for a 6th gear or vibration issues relating to higher speeds due to the higher RPMS of the shorter gearing of 3.37 final gearing in that bike.

Basically as of the end of April 2014, I made the conversion BACK to the ORIGINAL OEM 2.925 Final Gearing and am NOW running my 1999 FXR2 as a "conceptual" 4 speed bike with 84 HP and 94 lbs of Torque with 2.2925 Final Gearing with a 5th gear over drive "concept"….using the 5th gear once speeds are consistently at 75 mph or greater….which really brings the bike down into the comfort zone for over all engine vibrations and riding comfort when doing higher speed riding.

So….what's my point….my 2002 RKC with 100HP and 107 Torque is running 3.37 final gearing perfectly and is quite quick….and weighs in at 740 lbs and my 1999 FXR2 which weighs in at 565 lbs and has 84 HP and 94 lbs of Torque with 2.925 final gearing is being ridden as a 4 speed with a 5th gear overdrive sort of concept….and is quite comfortable on that framed and sized bike as well as being quite quick.

CONTINUE BELOW:

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #66 on:** May 07, 2014, 02:06:43 PM »

CONTINUATION:

Additionally while 100 HP and 100 lbs of Torque is possible with the evo OEM engine I didn't find it with the build design I created…oh and by the way I am only running the OEM CV Carb with a Dyna Tech 2000 Ignition Module that I like and am getting min 45 MPH per gallon and sometimes have seen 47 MPH as well….further riding this spring now that riding season is comfortably here perhaps I may see 50 but I can't take my hand away from that throttle it's just too much fun to ride. It is now quite obvious to me that different framed bikes react differently in terms of engine build combined with gearing based upon the design of what you are riding. For example a touring framed bike such as a road king weighing in at 740 lbs with a 16" front wheel is going to be experienced differently than a "Sport" Touring Framed Bike such as an FXR with either a 21" or 19" front wheel. So in part establishing the merits of the EVO and it's power will always be in relation to which framed bike you place the power plant into.

The original poster had a great question about what these evos can do….and here we are….30 years later since the introduction of the engine discussing what we can possibly get out of these engines….

MY ONLY HOPE:
is to continue to keep getting parts to keep my little evo on the highway….lol

The EVO ENGINE a very nice reliability for an engine…and easy to work on….

I am glad my RKC has a twin cam in it…and I AM glad I only need a evo in my FXR to enjoy it….which sums up my opinion. It is historical to enjoy both engine plants and both have their advantages.

I do believe for certain that those riders on heavier framed evos will always feel the need for a bit more power….but that all comes down to riding style of course…..here in CO and only being 20 minutes from either flat riding out on country roads or 20 minutes the other direction and being able to over the course of a couple of hours increase my elevation from 5,000 feet to 12,000 feet a 80" evo producing 84 HP and 94 lbs of Torque which is basically a 54% increase for HP and 41% increase for Torque without affecting the MPG of the bike is well within a expected reasonable expectation. All of this increase in power is well within the means of the other aspects of the bikes capabilities, without having to change brakes or belts to chains or etc...

I will also mention this for later readers through out the years that might stumble into this discussion. prior to doing the engine on my 2002 RKC I felt the engine was indeed underwhelming….and not as fun to ride so the combination of 3.37 FINAL gearing and the "mouse build" I put into that engine has been a remarkable improvement, in fact on May 4th 2014 I found a stretch of highway flat with a bit of a incline and no tail wind at roughly 6,000 feet in which a perfect storm created a few miles to feel the need to twist the throttle and I squeezed that throttle on that bike to 120 MPH with the 3.37 final gearing that would be 5290 RPMS in 5th gear and both my tac which was showing 5350 aprx but a minimum of 5300 RPMS for certain and a speedo with the needle being buried at 120 MPH with full throttle and the bike still wanting to power just a tiny bit more…..provides me a great indication that indeed it was probably going about 122 MPH….not bad for a small "mouse build".

Two years ago during the summer I then began to find myself feeling very underwhelmed with my 1999 FXR2 because I was having so much fun on my 2002 RKC….when I would ride the RKC it would put a smile on my face….and then another day I would ride the FXR2 and feel very (as I just stated) underwhelmed…it just was not as much fun to ride. So finally I decided to begin looking at modifications for the evo engine for the FXR2….it's taken a couple of years….to get it figured out….rotating as also mentioned above between gearing as well as some other minor issues….but now I look forward to riding both bikes equally. I am not giving up any fun to ride either bike….where as prior to doing the evo modifications I felt my FXR2 was just too slow…and indeed it was….at only 55 HP and 65 Lbs of Torque. Granted as a stock bike the 2.925 final gearing was probably only inducing that feeling even more as a comparison to the RKC.

I will say this…we need to continue to keep threads like this alive because as we get further and further away from even 1984 fewer and fewer data points will exist for guys to successfully know what to do for engine mods for their evos…..heck even as we speak the 95" build is so over and now it's on to the 107's and beyond.

I wish everyone safe trails and fun rides….with their evos…..such a wonderful platform if built correctly, can be very reliable and great.

Warmest Regards,

Tim

FXR2evo99 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 07, 2014, 02:53:21 PM »

The final analysis really boils down to what type of riding you plan on doing with your FXR's.

Earlier in this thread I mention that I just would not see myself spending much time above the 75MPH area…yet in reality I find myself often times above that 75MPH area into the 80 MPH and 85 MPH area. I also said I was not experiencing any negative aspects of vibration, and at the time of writing that review, I can only now say it took a season of riding to really figure all of this out…enough different days, enough different riding environments to place a real grasp of what the bike was/is really doing.

Thus the higher you go with your riding MPH zone basically the "buzzier" the FXR lighter framed bike becomes. Which I have begun to realize as I was referencing also having 3.37 FINAL Gearing in my 2002 RKC. Energy absorption must be part of the equation if you plan to ride your bike for extended periods on highways where you might find yourself going above 75 MPH.

So I would say now, be fair to yourself and really consider your riding style, if you are using your FXR as a bike to jump on for very short rides and at speeds not above 70 MPH then the 3.37 Final Gearing will be great, if you are thinking about the use of this bike as a "Sport" Touring bike in which you plan to take a trip on and spend hours a day on the bike….then the taller gearing of 2.925 will be a good advantage.

It is here where I also must retention that I have had the 2002 RKC with 3.37 Final Gearing for over 7 years and have taken extended trips on that bike….and because of the design of the bike at highway speeds the energy absorption is completely different and everything that I have experienced as a "buzzy" feeling on the FXR2 with 3.37 FINAL gearing is completely ABSENT while on the differently designed touring framed bike of the RKC (Road King Classic). I suppose the analogy here would be equivalent to the energy absorption ideas associated with pistols and different calipers and frames of such pistols as to the type of kick back you might experience as well….energy consumption is also the premise within this thought.

The more you use your FXR framed bike at highway speeds greater than 70+ MPH the more you will enjoy the taller gearing of 2.925 and the less you will enjoy the 3.37 FINAL gearing, bottom line.

Earlier in this thread it was brought to the attention of some readers that a compromise might be to extend oneself into a aftermarket 6 speed to accommodate for this nuance, and while this is indeed an accurate option, it does become a cost consideration as well. While after market companies offer alternatives within 6 speed options, I would add further that for gears 1 and 2 that shorter gearing makes less difference than one might imagine, and given that we have already spent time talking about 5th gear, the discussion about the merits of shorter gearing really is limited to discussions about 3rd and 4th gearing as to whether it is worthy enough positive.

3rd and 4th gear is where the sacrifice or strengths as well as the merits of shorter gearing will really play a much more significant factor.
All of you can go back above and study the RPMS with the given charts for 2.925, 3.15, 3.36 as well as 3.37 final gearing and make your own conclusions.

I basically determined in going back to 2.925 Final Gearing that my R&D and the style of riding I find myself doing on my 1999 FXR2 warranted a step backwards from my initial thoughts and have placed a higher value on the taller gearing.

It was a great R&D experience and a fun project to play with.

Given my personal R&D I would probably advocate for those experiencing their riding on a touring framed bike to give considerations without hesitation to 3.37 FINAL gearing while extending to those of us on FXR's to give merits to the considerations and benefits of the 2.925 gearing.

Another benefit of running 2.925 Final Gearing is that there is a 7% benefit in gas mileage performance as well.

I would certainly not advocate on the larger framed bikes the idea of changing to taller gearing because of reasons of "buzziness" as owning both framed bikes the RKC has no negatives from running 3.37 Final Gearing.

For those of you that own FXR's with 3.37 Final Geared Bikes (possibly 85-89 not quite sure but definitely those from 89-93) and depending upon the riding you do you may never really experience any issues at all with the "buzzy" feeling of the 3.37 Final Gearing….but the more you decide to turn your FXR into a "Sport" Touring Bike, and desire to spend more time traversing the landscape above 70+ MPH you might consider the merits of changing your gearing to the "taller gearing" of 2.925 as HD may have simply stumbled into the right gearing for our CVO FXR2's FXR3's and FXR4's.

Warmest Regards,

Tim

Thermodyne · « **Reply #68 on:** May 19, 2014, 08:13:17 PM »

OK, so I went with a 21 tooth engine sprocket and a 74 link chain. It worked out well. I ended up with 3.47 final (on paper). Electronic speedo was not an issue as all of the change was before the trans. The scooter rides like my 93 did. Lots of pep in the lower gears and I can use 5th any time I'm above 50. I had some concerns about the clutch slipping, but that is not an issue, and the starter is also not bothered by the change.

I ran into a little issue with the clutch, that added $30 to the cost of the job, but it still came in at less then $300 for everything.

Of note would be the absence of the aforementioned high speed vibration. The scooter is silky smooth at 65-70. It could be that the clutch and trans are still turning at the old speed, and only the engine speed has been increased.

Winston Wolf · « **Reply #69 on:** September 08, 2020, 10:20:09 AM »

After taking the time to read through all this thread, I wondered to myself why one wouldn't just buy a 150$ Baker compensator sprocket in 21 or 22 or 23 teeth....? All you need to do is flip the tensioner shoe mount upside down, and no other parts are needed. Were they not available at the time?

Twolanerider · « **Reply #70 on:** September 08, 2020, 11:40:16 AM »

Quote from: Winston Wolf on September 08, 2020, 10:20:09 AM

After taking the time to read through all this thread, I wondered to myself why one wouldn't just buy a 150$ Baker compensator sprocket in 21 or 22 or 23 teeth....? All you need to do is flip the tensioner shoe mount upside down, and no other parts are needed. Were they not available at the time?

Or you could be like me and realize I just didn't have any great issue with the final gearing relative to the cam profile in a stock 80" Evo and could just leave it be.... I actually left something alone.

Author Topic: 1999 FXR2 & FXR3, 2000 FXR4 FINAL GEARING 2.925 MY MODIFICATION: (Read 23601 times)