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Author Topic: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator  (Read 73381 times)

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JKM

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Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« on: July 04, 2012, 10:14:32 AM »

What are the comon symptons of a failing compenstor?  I'm thinkingo of replacing mine on a 2008 FLHRSE4 before I have any trouble with it.  Bike has about 5K miles
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sadunbar

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #1 on: July 04, 2012, 11:54:57 AM »

What are the comon symptons of a failing compenstor?  I'm thinkingo of replacing mine on a 2008 FLHRSE4 before I have any trouble with it.  Bike has about 5K miles

Noise from your primary when starting or shutting off your motor.  
Hard to start.  
Popping back thru the throttle body when trying to start.  
Metal on your primary drain plug.
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Rooster

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2012, 11:58:26 AM »

For me I heard a whirring;/howling noise coming from the primary that came and went a couple of times then it did it constantly without stopping. I have a half mile driveway that allowed me to hear it on the way down I rode it about 27 miles to the dealer and the last couple of traffic lights before I got there it acted like it wanted to die when stopped at the light however the whole way it shifted fine but I could hear the noise all the way there. Hope this helps. I have had the SE comp assembly on for about 18k now and no problems so far but am thinking about a different tensioner as it does seem a little tight. I believe I was at about 20k when mine went bad.
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miker

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2012, 11:07:43 AM »

Mine was a loud intermittent clunking & clanking from the forward primary...
It was the spring pack had cracked and occasionally would get all cattywhumpuss and makes the sounds of something beating itself to death.
Now it is just the regular noises... ;D
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Ghost__Rider

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2012, 11:11:45 AM »

Mine was a kick back while starting and even a kick back. Eventually turned into a vibration. Lots of metal in the primary. SE Compsator and no more problems.
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CookieCVO

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2012, 12:16:09 PM »

Ok Guy's & Gal's;

I have an 09 FLHTCUSE4 and starting is a bitch sometimes.  It sounds like it tries to fire and then cracks backwards and throws the starter off the ring gear.  JUST LOTS OF NOISE!
I am heading over the HD dealer Monday and let them hear this.  I am out of warranty but the bike has only 4900 miles.  I thought being a CVO I would not have these issue, but I was wrong....

C~~~CASH
V~~~VERSION
O~~~OPERATION

I bought an 09 because it was so fine,  :love_1:
I like the big tire since the redesign,  :xyxthumbs:

Now I have the machine that makes a starting noise,  :huh2:
And now it looks like I need the help from the HD boyz,

It clatters and clanks when it cranks,
Now I am afraid it will take me to the bank.

I spent good money for my CVO,
And was hoping for so much more, but I really don't think so,  :'(

Now it's off to the shop she goes,
For some love and tenderness so it will start,

On Monday I will see if my baby will be ok,
As Sturgis approaches, she need to be ready to go away,

As vacation is closing in, I need to be ready to depart,
I really hope I don't need lots of parts.

As they say Harley Davidson stands for "Hundreds of Dollars,"  :nixweiss:
I sure hope this is not true, but if so, then I will holler!   :givemebeer:

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Kathy

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2012, 09:03:17 PM »

For me I heard a whirring;/howling noise coming from the primary that came and went a couple of times then it did it constantly without stopping. I have a half mile driveway that allowed me to hear it on the way down I rode it about 27 miles to the dealer and the last couple of traffic lights before I got there it acted like it wanted to die when stopped at the light however the whole way it shifted fine but I could hear the noise all the way there. Hope this helps. I have had the SE comp assembly on for about 18k now and no problems so far but am thinking about a different tensioner as it does seem a little tight. I believe I was at about 20k when mine went bad.

Hey there, it seems you have the perfect description of your primary chain getting too tight. This is caused by the expansion on the primary chain when it heats up, so the "self adjusting" stock tensioner clicks up tighter a tooth or two, which corrects the looseness. However when the chain cools back down after riding the chain actually shrinks back down, since the teeth in the adjuster won't let the shoe move back down, it's now even tighter on the next start up until it heats up again, putting excessive stress on the chain, bearings, shafts, etc. basically the whole primary system. Have a look at our M6, it actually rides on springs and continuously put the correct amount of tension in the primary chain at all times. We have a little video of what's actually happening inside your primary case.

You've seen links to our site posted by other members, but here it is again for your reference. http://www.haydensm6.com

Feel free to contact us with any questions. We're here to help.
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CookieCVO

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2012, 10:17:25 AM »

Kathy:

It does this when it's cold or hot.  So changing the tensioner doesn't seem like the solution.  I could be wrong.  Any other opinions for a blond?

IMHO

Randi  :nixweiss:
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djkak

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2012, 08:14:29 PM »

....Have a look at our M6, it actually rides on springs and continuously put the correct amount of tension in the primary chain at all times. We have a little video of what's actually happening inside your primary case....Feel free to contact us with any questions. We're here to help.

Kathy, I took a look at that cool video and have a couple of remarks, and a question or two.

When decelerating, using the engine to slow the machine, the bottom span of the primary chain is under tension, forcing the tensioner shoe to the bottom of its travel. As the chain and adjuster shoe wear, the slack at the top of the chain will increase, eventually allowing the chain to make contact with the primary housing when braking with the engine. Can you comment about the recommended interval and procedure for servicing the unit in order to prevent the eventual contact between the chain and primary housing?

The attached screen print from the video was taken during a brief period when there was some visible “chain snatch” along the lower span of the chain. Also visible is the high frequency vertical movement of the tensioner shoe as it follows the chain, cycling rapidly through its range of travel.

The shoe’s movement does not appear to be dampened in any way, allowing it to build inertia before it bottoms off its stop. My sense is that this action may result in the eventual breakage of the shoe. Kathy, have you folks had any experience with broken tensioner shoes, and if so, can you comment on some of the possible causes?

The video is cool, but I’d like to see the same shot at a higher frame rate with the engine just running at idle. The ability to slow the action down, coupled with the extreme chain snatch at idle would make for an interesting frame-by-frame video experience. Actually it would be fun to watch this video at any frame rate with the engine just running at idle. Can you folks post a video like that?
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MadCVORG

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2012, 09:12:01 AM »

If your compensator does this, it's a sure sign it's screwed.
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Kathy

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2012, 01:55:14 PM »

Kathy, I took a look at that cool video and have a couple of remarks, and a question or two.

When decelerating, using the engine to slow the machine, the bottom span of the primary chain is under tension, forcing the tensioner shoe to the bottom of its travel. As the chain and adjuster shoe wear, the slack at the top of the chain will increase, eventually allowing the chain to make contact with the primary housing when braking with the engine. Can you comment about the recommended interval and procedure for servicing the unit in order to prevent the eventual contact between the chain and primary housing?

The attached screen print from the video was taken during a brief period when there was some visible “chain snatch” along the lower span of the chain. Also visible is the high frequency vertical movement of the tensioner shoe as it follows the chain, cycling rapidly through its range of travel.

The shoe’s movement does not appear to be dampened in any way, allowing it to build inertia before it bottoms off its stop. My sense is that this action may result in the eventual breakage of the shoe. Kathy, have you folks had any experience with broken tensioner shoes, and if so, can you comment on some of the possible causes?

The video is cool, but I’d like to see the same shot at a higher frame rate with the engine just running at idle. The ability to slow the action down, coupled with the extreme chain snatch at idle would make for an interesting frame-by-frame video experience. Actually it would be fun to watch this video at any frame rate with the engine just running at idle. Can you folks post a video like that?



Hello djkak, thanks for your interest and questions. Hopefully we can address these issue without writing a book. LOL If need be, you can always give us a call directly for further explaination. 951-371-0030

#1-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"When decelerating, using the engine to slow the machine, the bottom span of the primary chain is under tension, forcing the tensioner shoe to the bottom of its travel. As the chain and adjuster shoe wear, the slack at the top of the chain will increase, eventually allowing the chain to make contact with the primary housing when braking with the engine. Can you comment about the recommended interval and procedure for servicing the unit in order to prevent the eventual contact between the chain and primary housing?"

When you use your engine as a brake, yes our product will have more stress on it due to the tension and pull being on the bottom of the primary chain system, however this will only cause the M6 to bottom out for that instance it's needed. In which case, it would be and act just as a rigid mount tensioner does. After that pulse is over, it goes right back to normal operations. We've had this system since 1989 and people have been engine braking since even before then. The only "wear" on the shoe will be the 3 groves it will make while it "seats" itself. this is usually done with in a few 100 miles. After that happens the rollers on the chain will simply glide over our shoe.

#2-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The shoe’s movement does not appear to be dampened in any way, allowing it to build inertia before it bottoms off its stop. My sense is that this action may result in the eventual breakage of the shoe. Kathy, have you folks had any experience with broken tensioner shoes, and if so, can you comment on some of the possible causes?

You are correct, there is quite a bit of quick shoe movement in our video, but please keep in mind... this is a open and dry primary, just used for this video. We DO NOT recommend running your primary system without fluid. On a normal install, closed and with fluid, there is a lot less movement of our shoe and it's a lot quieter than an open primary as well. Our whole system is in a bath of fluid at all times, this causes less friction on the chain/shoe contact as well as dampening on the shoe/guideplate contact. This is also eliminate a lot of the excessive chain movement you pointed out in the video. The second part of your comment was related to shoes breaking, we have had a few instances where we have reported cracked or broken shoes and with further investigation discussion with the customer, it seems 95% of the time there was too much slack in the measurement of the spring compression area causeing the shoes to "slap" around and eventually breaking. The other 5% was from our sponsored drag bikes that have our M6 installed with EXTREME HP and great 1/4 mile times. Either way, we fully stand behind our product and a new shoe was shipped out the same day.

#3-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The video is cool, but I’d like to see the same shot at a higher frame rate with the engine just running at idle. The ability to slow the action down, coupled with the extreme chain snatch at idle would make for an interesting frame-by-frame video experience. Actually it would be fun to watch this video at any frame rate with the engine just running at idle. Can you folks post a video like that?

We are currently working on additional videos of out product, installed and installing. You can see us on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/user/HaydensM6

Thanks again for your comments and please let us know if we can help any further.

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #11 on: July 16, 2012, 03:48:13 PM »

Good pricing.
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Boatman

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #12 on: July 16, 2012, 05:15:53 PM »

Good pricing.

That kit is fine if you don't need the rotor, bolt, or any of the washers.  If you need everything, use the 08A number at $249.95 less 20%..
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cahdbiker

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #13 on: July 20, 2012, 01:31:44 AM »

Got my bike back from the shop today. The whirring/howling noise was a bad front wheel bearing, they also replaced my compensator with a SE version, they said my drive belt was too tight. Same dealer installed new rear tire about 4100 miles ago. They also replaced the stator. The parts and labor on service repair order was $1070.90, but since I have the extended warranty I only had to pay for the upgrade to the SE compensator. My out of pocket was $151.95. So considering the new tire replaced under warranty last year and this and a couple of other things my overpriced extended warranty has just about paid for itself. I still do have the noise at about 2600-2800 RPM. Gonna leave that be until bike starts using oil. I am quite confident it is piston slap, but considering the small amount of oil I used on  my vacation. (less than half quart in almost 4000 miles of hot hard riding with passenger and luggage) there is no way I am taking the top end apart. Sorry for the extended post, but I want to share what happened.CAHDBIKER



Rooster, I am glad I read your post. I have an 09SEUC with just under 17K miles on it.  I just got back from a almost 4000 mile trip and I started to hear this whirring/howling noise also, which I thought was coming from the front end. I figured maybe it was just the front tire (which has been replaced under warranty) or maybe I was starting to lose a front wheel bearing. I took a good listen to it when I got home and when I revved up from idle I hear a kind of clattering/clacking noise directly from the area of the compensator and could feel a vibration when I touch the outside of primary. Took it to the shop and the tech told me I had a little oil seepage coming from stator plug.(He said if he sees any kind of seepage at that plug he is obligated to pull the primary and inspect everything inside) Therefore he will be pulling my primary and fixing anything inside that is not right. I did tell him to upgrade my compensator to SE version while he had it apart. Naturally I will have to pay the difference from stock to SE if that is the problem. Glad I have the extended warranty. They have had it since Tue. and since today is Thursday I figure there must be something wrong or they would have called me to pick it up by now. On another post I read it said that the noise between 2600-2800 went away when he went to the SE compensator. That would be a plus, but I am convinced that noise is piston slap. I will post my results when I get bike back.CAHDBIKER


For me I heard a whirring;/howling noise coming from the primary that came and went a couple of times then it did it constantly without stopping. I have a half mile driveway that allowed me to hear it on the way down I rode it about 27 miles to the dealer and the last couple of traffic lights before I got there it acted like it wanted to die when stopped at the light however the whole way it shifted fine but I could hear the noise all the way there. Hope this helps. I have had the SE comp assembly on for about 18k now and no problems so far but am thinking about a different tensioner as it does seem a little tight. I believe I was at about 20k when mine went bad.
« Last Edit: July 21, 2012, 09:00:51 PM by cahdbiker »
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Rooster

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #14 on: July 20, 2012, 09:41:55 AM »

Glad my discription helped you. I did notice the tapping noise was less after installing the SE Comp Assembly but still there. Of course I don't have it anymore as the 131 doesn't have that. If you can have them change the primary bearing to the Baker one it is about 50 bucks and this advice came from Jim hddude.
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Rodger7920

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #15 on: January 24, 2013, 03:22:21 PM »

On the way home from work yesterday, coming up to a red light 2 blocks from the house and I get the dreaded sound of gravel, and metal chunks in the primary.  God awful grinding and chattering.  Got it home and to the shop today.  Oh, by the way it's on a 2013 Road Kind CVO FLHSE5 with 6500 miles on it.  I had traded in my 2011 Road King Classic on this one but on the 2011, I had the compensator sprocket wear out and the HD dealer replaced it with the SE upgraded one.  He told me that HD sent out a memo to all of the dealers that the manufacturer who makes the sprocket for Harley had gotten in a bad batch of cheap metal and these things were failing left and right.  Well, I kind of have to wonder why it went out on the 110" SE CVO then.  Will update after repairs.
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CookieCVO

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #16 on: January 24, 2013, 04:51:45 PM »

You know I too thought I had a bad Comp.  Only to find out the HD dealer that sold it new charged the guy for a Screaming Eagle re-flash and never did the flash and the compression releases were OFF!

After I installed the Kuryakyn re-flash system, I turned on the compression releases and all my starting issues are gone!  I change my primary every 3k miles.  Comp. looks good and have only clutch finds in the oil.

Next project is to deck the heads for more Compression and then cams....

Damn business partner has one of those 130 S&S motors on his old Bagger.  Kicks my butt every time! :o  :soapbox:

2009 FLHTCUSE Ultra Classic 110CVO
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ltank

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Re: Symptons of a Bad or Failing Compensator
« Reply #17 on: January 26, 2013, 10:01:02 PM »

I have 45,000 miles on my sprockets, compensator,clutch  basket and manual chain adjuster.  The only problem I had was that a screw come lose on the serrated Bracer. It ate one roller on half of one link.
Made awful noise and was able to limp home 30 miles out in the country where cell phones don't work.
2000 FXR4 CVO. S&S V111 motor, Rivera Promo 6 speed gearset. 22k miles with big motor.
Ltank
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