Topic: TRUE-TRACK, INC. - SWING ARM PIVOT ANCHOR / WOBBLE (Read 10070 times)

PHAZE · « **on:** August 19, 2006, 08:05:51 PM »

Maybe this has been covered in detail elsewhere, but I haven't found it. The subject company had a booth out in front of Black Hills HD in Rapid City during Sturgis Bike Week. They had folks lined up constantly (while I was there) getting their device installed at either $360.00 or $390.00 a pop. They seemed to be using fear of the "high speed wobble" to sell their product and mentioned to more than one that "their equipment was cheaper than a funeral."

I've done a little checking and even though the wobble feels like it's in the front end, I understand that it has to do more with the swingarm and motor mounts. I guess this device helps control or eliminate the "wobble" and can also help prevent deterioration of the motor mounts.

I know that there are several very competent folks that are members of this site. I'd like to know more and would appreciate opinions on the necessity of this kind of product. Are there others? Is the install technical? I've installed a garbage disposal, so could I handle this?

Thanks!

ultrafxr · « **Reply #1 on:** August 19, 2006, 08:33:22 PM »

I saw therm at Laconia and spoke to the owner. I was impressed and considered having it intstalled. The HD baggers can definitely have a rear stear phenonomem in high speed sweepers and I've experienced it. This is due to the rubber mounted swing arm. Of course as these bushings wear this can become more pronounced. I know that FR8TRN had a competing product, ridestr8, on his bike. I'd like to ride a bike with one of these products installed to make a decision if I'd get one. Install looks pretty straightforward and simple. Guess I should have taken the plunge at Laconia.

grc · « **Reply #2 on:** August 19, 2006, 08:55:16 PM »

PHAZE,

There have been other threads concerning the True-Trak and the Ride-Str8 devices.

GC_Super · « **Reply #3 on:** August 19, 2006, 09:08:10 PM »

This high speed wobble thing is strange to say the least. Some say the ride stra8t or the tru- track help a lot, while some say it doesn't effect handling at all. Some say their bikes wobble, some say it doesn't wobble at all. My 03 FLHT with tour pack and loaded never had a stange feel at all up to 100 + mph. But, on my first ride on my CUSE it felt stange, matter of fact, I pulled over the first time I reached hiway speeds thinking I had a flat tire due to the way it felt. The dealer has retightened the neck bearings and checked alighment, but I will never feel as confident on this bike as I did on my 03. I've gotten used to the way it feels and really don't worry about it, but when conditions are right, it's bothersome. If ya'll remember a guy with the handle Golf Pro, he sold his CUSE because of the way it handled. You would think that with the engineering expertise that HD has, they would be able to figure out why one bike does it and another one doesn't. You can always chalk it up to the difference between riders, but I 've ridden the same on both bikes and have heard comments from multiple owners saying the same thing. [smiley=confused5.gif]

SPIDERMAN · « **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2006, 09:32:59 PM »

I have a True Track on my 03 SERK. As soon as the company that makes them offers one for the 07 models there will be on on my 07 Road Glide. I'm sold solid on them and can't say enough good about them. Best $400 you could spend IMO. It seems that a few people either have rubber mount baggers with no rear stear, or they are simply so used to it, they do not notice it. One of the moderators and I have had some friendly disagreements on this subject, comparing rider size ( weight) riding style and everything we could think of because he thinks they're useless as tits on a bull and I swear by mine. Don't know what to tell you. I do know that people who have ridden my bike all say they can feel the difference when cornering hard. One thing as a heads up. The change the geometry of the bike a bit and as such you will lock up your rear brakes a time or two till you get used to it. Be aware as it's a hairy feeling you don't want to experience in heavy traffic. It's ok after you re-learn the amount of rear brakes to use. I haven't had any lockup problems since I got used to it.

grc · « **Reply #5 on:** August 19, 2006, 09:45:09 PM »

Quote

This high speed wobble thing is strange to say the least.

sponserv · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2006, 11:39:06 PM »

I thought I was crazy. I feel the rear end wobble on my 02 SERK big time whenever I corner hard or put the coals to her.

However on my 07 CUSE i feel none of that.

I would really like to know the root cause of the wobble and what these products actually do to fix it. Also, I have never had any front end wobble on either bike.

FR8TRN · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2006, 09:04:28 AM »

Quote

I thought I was crazy. I feel the rear end wobble on my 02 SERK big time whenever I corner hard or put the coals to her.

However on my 07 CUSE i feel none of that.

I would really like to know the root cause of the wobble and what these products actually do to fix it. Also, I have never had any front end wobble on either bike.

They changed the swingarm mounting for the '07 Tourers....it may have resolved the issue......wouldn't that be nice. On older models some have it some don't....could be riding style....could be build tolerance.....could be....could be.....could be.....

PHAZE · « **Reply #8 on:** August 21, 2006, 07:44:55 PM »

I didn't think I had it until I hit 115 on a long open stretch of SD highway. I won't be going there again. I no longer feel that kind of need for speed on my CUSE. If I feel the need, I'll be meeting the need on another steed.

Big Al · « **Reply #9 on:** August 22, 2006, 04:07:34 PM »

Quote

I thought I was crazy. I feel the rear end wobble on my 02 SERK big time whenever I corner hard or put the coals to her.

However on my 07 CUSE i feel none of that.

I would really like to know the root cause of the wobble and what these products actually do to fix it. Also, I have never had any front end wobble on either bike.

I have the Truetrack on both my SEEG and on Kaz' Ultra w/ sidehack

According to Will at Truetrack, the device provides the 3rd engine mount (that all Buell's have by the way). This third mount keeps the engine motion all in one plane (vertical vs horizontal). Without the Truetrack, sideways motion of the rear of the engine/transmission causes a rear wheel steering effect that you can feel on high speed whoops on the highway. Its really disconcerting....Mike (99 Glide) and I rode 85+ on the way back from CC this summer- I have the Truetrack and he doesn't and he was pretty shaken after some of the high speed highway turns we took...He asked how I was able to track so true [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif] while he was not...On the Hack it keeps the engine/transmission lined up wit hthe rear wheel and has eliminated my need to replace the bushing and final drive gear evry 10k miles...

According to Will- the earlier cleveblock swingarm bearings and the front engine mount ALWAYS need watching. The later SA bushings are solid and more reliable...

IMHO in makes good sense and it works. [smiley=cherry.gif]

HUBBARD · « **Reply #10 on:** August 22, 2006, 06:03:17 PM »

Harley-Davidson Electra-Glides must have gone to hell in a hand basket, after 2002 Production.

jfscheck · « **Reply #11 on:** August 22, 2006, 07:00:01 PM »

From zero to 100+ no wobbles - of course I always make sure I have proper tire inflation and set my rear air shocks to 8 lbs...

Lots of the air shocks are at 0lbs!!!

[smiley=drink.gif]

grc · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2006, 09:30:11 PM »

Quote

From zero to 100+ no wobbles - of course I always make sure I have proper tire inflation and set my rear air shocks to 8 lbs...

Lots of the air shocks are at 0lbs!!!

[smiley=drink.gif]

John,

The dealer I bought my bike from recommended 0 - 5 psi in the shocks, which is pretty much what H-D also recommends for someone my size. I found the cornering to be rather "squirrelly", and was constantly dragging the jiffy stand and floor boards. Also, the shocks bottomed much to easily. Now I run 18 - 20 psi, the cornering is much improved, the ride is much improved, and the only time I drag the jiffy stand is when my mind regresses and I think I'm on my Super Glide Sport. The air pressure recommendations in the owner's manual are useless, in my opinion, especially on the lowered bikes.

Jerry

Twolanerider · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2006, 10:29:36 PM »

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The air pressure recommendations in the owner's manual are useless, in my opinion, especially on the lowered bikes.

Jerry

They're also wrong. Somewhere on the site is an updated data sheet from HD on air pressures for the shocks that JC posted if memory serves.

Fired00d · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2006, 10:40:54 PM »

Quote

They're also wrong.

HUBBARD · « **Reply #15 on:** August 24, 2006, 12:44:31 PM »

Ever experienced the rear wheel "Hop", or "jump scootin'", in a curve at high speed? If you have HD OEM, or Lo-Pro airshocks, and you are a very aggressive Rider, I know you have. HD Air Shocks were not made for hard and fast riding. They're for 2-up "Touring." Progressive 440 HD's, are the only way to go, especially for 1-up, agressive riding. It's a totally different kind of ride. NO hop in a curve, either. I'm talking in the Hammer Lane, WFO, too! There endeth the lesson. Later--HUBBARD

Ironhorse · « **Reply #16 on:** August 25, 2006, 12:23:17 AM »

Well I have to say that I have experienced the wobble on my '01 Ultra.

The first thing I did was add a Ride-Str8. It helped some, but did not get rid of it all. I almost went with the Sta-Bo Bushings too. Then I went back to my Avon vendor. He checked everything, belt, alignment, steering neck bearings, and tires. He found I had over inflated the tires. I had 50lbs in the rear, and 42 in the front. He set both at 36. That helped a bit more. Then I decided to lower my air shock pressure. I had 30lbs in the front and rear. I bled them to 15lbs. That just about did it. Then I bled to to 12lbs, and that helped even more. After reading some of these posts, I think I'll go for about 6lbs.

I guess my efforts to "stiffen" my ride was counter productive. I'm thinking that without the tires and suspension being able to absorb what the road gives, all of that energy was transferred to the whole bike, and that cause my wobble. I may be wrong, but that's my thought.

16HD117 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 25, 2006, 08:37:52 AM »

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up on a problem with this item.

Ironhorse · « **Reply #18 on:** August 25, 2006, 09:53:05 AM »

Quote

Just wanted to give you guys a heads up on a problem with this item.

Boatman · « **Reply #19 on:** August 25, 2006, 10:42:38 AM »

I have the True-Track, slide my K&L jack under the bike with the rear jack arm under the TTrack and put a 3/8" board under the front jack arm and raise with no problems. The only downside of a TTrack is if you have a center stand.

Big Al · « **Reply #20 on:** August 25, 2006, 01:01:52 PM »

Quote

I have the True-Track, slide my K&L jack under the bike with the rear jack arm under the TTrack and put a 3/8" board under the front jack arm and raise with no problems.

16HD117 · « **Reply #21 on:** August 25, 2006, 01:41:14 PM »

Quote

I have the True-Track, slide my K&L jack under the bike with the rear jack arm under the TTrack and put a 3/8" board under the front jack arm and raise with no problems.

SneakyPete · « **Reply #22 on:** November 23, 2006, 08:31:03 AM »

Quote

Harley-Davidson Electra-Glides must have gone to hell in a hand basket, after 2002 Production.

jfh · « **Reply #23 on:** December 03, 2006, 04:31:34 PM »

I am installing the Progressive IAS 440 shocks and Tru-Track on the rear my '07 FLHTC and Race Tech springs/emulators in the front.

Cerdo · « **Reply #24 on:** December 23, 2006, 10:46:39 PM »

I run 25 to 30 PSI in the shocks for normal riding; however, I'm 265LB and ride with extra clothes and safety equipment in the bags all of the time. Road trips with the old lady on back, the shocks are 40 to 50 PSI. My old softail and my old bagger never had a wobble problem at high speed, if you consider high speed under 100 MPH.

Boatman · « **Reply #25 on:** December 23, 2006, 11:20:05 PM »

Quote

Yea, the board under the front works great with an Ultra, but, the Electra Glide is too low to use a shim under the front.

I just run the front tire up on a 2X4 to get my SEEG2 up in the air in the front so I can slide the jack under with the 3/8" board on the front jack arm and put the rear jack arm under the TrueTrack..

syclone · « **Reply #26 on:** December 25, 2006, 09:15:59 AM »

With my '05 SEEG and True-Track, I remove the Tour Pack and Hard bags, position the rear leg of my jack just in front of the rear cross member, and the bike goes up straight and balanced.

Twolanerider · « **Reply #27 on:** December 25, 2006, 01:09:41 PM »

God it's nice to have a lift.

Author Topic: TRUE-TRACK, INC. - SWING ARM PIVOT ANCHOR / WOBBLE (Read 10070 times)

SPIDERMAN