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[skratch]

great writeup and pics.  the only thing that i would change is to mention the 2 longer screws on the inner/outer fairing assembly, and instead of using a screwdriver or awl to pop the tabs on the bezel, use these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-69668.html, less chance of messing up the paint and they're cheap enough.  also, on reinstallation of the outer fairing, there are some tabs that have to overlap properly in order for the inner and outer fairing to seat properly.  they can be seen near the gloveboxes.

after going through your installation, i find that i will have to find a different power wire for my amp, i was using the red capped wire for that cause i was too lazy to route it all the way under the tank to the battery... why?  i got power right here

[DesertHOG]

great writeup and pics.  the only thing that i would change is to mention the 2 longer screws on the inner/outer fairing assembly, and instead of using a screwdriver or awl to pop the tabs on the bezel, use these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-69668.html, less chance of messing up the paint and they're cheap enough.  also, on reinstallation of the outer fairing, there are some tabs that have to overlap properly in order for the inner and outer fairing to seat properly.  they can be seen near the gloveboxes.

after going through your installation, i find that i will have to find a different power wire for my amp, i was using the red capped wire for that cause i was too lazy to route it all the way under the tank to the battery... why?  i got power right here

Yup.. video covers the two longer screws at the bottom of the fairing. The nylon wedge tools look neat. Wondering if any sort of leverage/pressure doesn't make you prone to a paint chip though? With regard to the power wire, maybe you can just insert a splice with two connectors and use it for a dual purpose.

Simon

[rdawg]

great writeup and pics.  the only thing that i would change is to mention the 2 longer screws on the inner/outer fairing assembly, and instead of using a screwdriver or awl to pop the tabs on the bezel, use these: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-69668.html, less chance of messing up the paint and they're cheap enough.  also, on reinstallation of the outer fairing, there are some tabs that have to overlap properly in order for the inner and outer fairing to seat properly.  they can be seen near the gloveboxes.

after going through your installation, i find that i will have to find a different power wire for my amp, i was using the red capped wire for that cause i was too lazy to route it all the way under the tank to the battery... why?  i got power right here

Cool, I knew i would be able to use those nylon bars for something, had them for a while.  
Thanks for the write up and pictures Simon,  have to get over my fears of getting the fairing back on.  Just need to save up 560 for the lights.  I can put in the digital gauges at the same time.

Also, any issues with the Garage door opener working with these like the HID setup seems to have?

[Rio]

Yeah, I left the windshield on when I removed the fairing. As I mentioned, I struggled getting the fairing back on. My tall windshield made it a little clumsy to maneuver the whole assemble. I ended up removing the windshield on the re-install just to make it easier to handle.

After deciding to put the turn signals back in place first things went a lot smoother. I think if I had a stock or short windshield I probably would have been able to leave it on the fairing for the re-install.

Simon

I only had my fairing off on this bike once.  I had it off and on more times than I could count on my 2007 RG for various reasons.  Eventually I over torqued the screws in the fairing and stipped them.  I had to put filler in the holes and re-tap them, that sucked.  It would be nice if HD would go one step further and mount a metal insert in the fairing holes for a tighter fit.  The chrome trim with the windshield was always a bugger too.  I have a 12" shield, I have no plans on removing it when i install my lights....thanks again for the effort!

[anglia48]

I just installed the daymaker lights on my '13 RG. The job was simple enough. The hardest part was installing the faring again. WOW! Looks like ive got it lined up not too bad. The lights look awesome and are way brighter than stock.

[scuba1954]

I have noticed a lot of people complain how much trouble they have trying to get the fairing back on after this install. The trouble some have is getting the hooks to catch the notches in the fairing. I have had my fairing on and off quite a few times. If you follow the shop manual they tell you to install the lights then put the fairing on. I have found it much easier to leave the headlights out so I can see the hooks then I plug the lights in and snap the green adjustment screw holders into the three holes. Is this not possible to do with the daymakers?
  I have bought a set and want to put them in my RG. I see your instructions (by the way that was a great install write up...thanks) say after installing the new metal support bracket to the fairing you snap the lights into the fairing, is this something that could be done after the fairing is installed. Just make sure that the wires you need access to are where they can be reached, plug them into the daymakers and then snap into place or is there something that I am missing?

[DesertHOG]

I have noticed a lot of people complain how much trouble they have trying to get the fairing back on after this install. The trouble some have is getting the hooks to catch the notches in the fairing. I have had my fairing on and off quite a few times. If you follow the shop manual they tell you to install the lights then put the fairing on. I have found it much easier to leave the headlights out so I can see the hooks then I plug the lights in and snap the green adjustment screw holders into the three holes. Is this not possible to do with the daymakers?
  I have bought a set and want to put them in my RG. I see your instructions (by the way that was a great install write up...thanks) say after installing the new metal support bracket to the fairing you snap the lights into the fairing, is this something that could be done after the fairing is installed. Just make sure that the wires you need access to are where they can be reached, plug them into the daymakers and then snap into place or is there something that I am missing?

I don't know. I never considered approaching it that way. I have a pretty thick arm and am not limber enough to consider this option. However, if it works for you on the regular headlight assembly, it would probably work with the daymakers. You'd just have a little less room due to the heat shield.

Good luck, Simon

[scuba1954]

I don't know. I never considered approaching it that way. I have a pretty thick arm and am not limber enough to consider this option. However, if it works for you on the regular headlight assembly, it would probably work with the daymakers. You'd just have a little less room due to the heat shield.

Good luck, Simon

Thanks for the info. My arms are not that small either I just found it easy to make sure the Headlight plugs were hanging out the front of the fairing and after the fairing was installed I could move any wire bundles out of the way plug in the lights and snap the housing in place. Still no idea why the heat shield is only on the left side? If I read your article correct the heat shield goes on the left cable, left side being viewed while sitting on the bike...correct?

Thanks,
Mike

[scuba1954]

I have started the install of my daymakers and got ready to put the heat shield on the harness. I was confused because the instructions say to put it on the harness that is directly behind the left light. I called HD to find out if that is the left light when sitting on the bike or the left light when viewed from the front. They told me it is the left light when sitting on the bike and the left light also has the Bumper, wire protection(item #14 in the instructions)on it. I looked closely at your pictures and it looks like you put the heat shield on the right side of the harness. Just a concern...hope I looked at your pictures incorrectly. I just see the heat shield on the light without the wire protection bumper.

[ultrarider123]

Simon, thanks for documenting this so well.  Have you thought about getting a job with the instructions writing department for HD parts?  'Cause the explaination along with the pics were great.  I've got this job ahead of me when we change skunk ryders lights on his RG in the next few days.  This will help a bunch in that installation.  Will post a couple pics on this thread when we start/complete the project. 

[maia812]

GREAT illustration on the whole job. I'm sure alot of members are thankfull for  that, GREAT JOB, Desert Hog

[ultrarider123]

Simon,  we worked on Skunk Ryder's RG this past Friday night.  With your instructions and pictures plus the instructions with the set along with the video of the removal/installation of the faring, it was a breeze.  Biggest issues?  Removing the old and installing the new cowling.  Everything else was great.  Here's a picture of the lights before the installation.

[ultrarider123]

...and a picture after the installation.  While we were doing this, we also installed the Custom Dynamics light rings front running/turn signal lights along with the load equalizer for them.  Over all, it really changed the look of the skunk.  Thanks again for all the help and posting your install.  Was great help in our endeavour

[funbiker1967]

This is why I love this site.  Read every post.  Great job!!  Very informative. 

[FUZZNUTS]

Thanks for posting this Simon, just ordered mine from Lake Shore. Caught the last day of the sale ........................................You really made it look easy to do...............Fuzz