Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[SteveFLHTK]

Last weekend, I traded my Ultra Limited for a TriGlide due to some health issues.  I will have a Mastertune for the bike in hand but will not have time to change out the head pipe before heading to Sturgis next week.  Assuming I install the Stage 1 airbox (Ness Big Sucker) am I safe loading the canned map for the 103 with air box only and no VTune?  Will I be likely to see some performance gains doing this?  I notice the Trike is pretty much a pig when on a rise in 6th gear, I know the complete Stage 1 package will get rid of that, jsut not enough time.  (I don't get back home until Wednesday evening, and we leave first thing Thursday morning).

Hoping that some of the resident experts will chime in here.

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

A canned map is just a starting point for tuning your engine to run better. Since we dont know were in the country the map was generated at, there a number variables that may cause your engine to run rich or lean, stumble on acceleration, ping worse due to the timing in the map, have hard starting issues either cold or hot. Im not a fan of the stock tune but you might be better off to leave your trike alone until you can get the trike tuned correctly

With a trike your drive train has to deal with the additional 200 lbs of added weight just for the trike kit before any rider, passenger and gear your traveling with. To top it all off the trike is like a brick in the wind. Forget 6th gear, plan on using 4th and 5th in the mountains.

You should get some octane boost and keep it with you in case you get some place that has crappy gas and your engine starts to ping.

[FLTRI]

Why not just do a couple vtunes?
Then the bike will perform well with you knowing it has been properly recalibrated for the changes and cooled down a bit to boot.

Bob

[SteveFLHTK]

No time. I get home Wednesday afternoon and leave Thursday morning.

[FLTRI]

Best bet would be to return the bike to stock pipes and a/c rather than ride a too-lean bike with free breathing exhaust and intake.
The bike came from the factory too lean IMO, and opening up the intake and exhaust just exacerbates the problem.
A long trip running that lean can and does hurt ring seal by overheating the rings due to hot/lean running for long durations as on a cross-country trip.
Just my advice based on seeing the damage for myself many times.
HTH,
Bob
PS - If you have done vtunes before you know it can take as little as 1/2 - 1 hour to get it done. If you haven't done vtuning before, you are right, you don't have time to learn and experiment with it.

[SteveFLHTK]

Never done VTune before, so that's out.  I was not planning on adding exhaust, just the AC.  If I was adding the exhaust as well, I have a good map already.  My question is specifically using the canned map for AC only with AC only on the bike, 100% stock exhaust.

[Buckeye_Tuning]

Just throw the AC on the bike and go, would be my recommendation.  If the pipes you have are still stock?  Mufflers, too?  You will be good to go.

The bottleneck on our bikes is the exhaust, and whenever we modify exhausts, we MUST remap the ECM.  (this is so true, no matter WHAT a pipe/muffler company will tell you, and is one BIG reason I really like Fullsac... he tells the truth)That AC shouldn't change the flow characteristics of your bike at all.  Your exhaust is still doing its job of restricting the engine.  There will be no need to use the TTS until such a time you modify the exhaust and get a true Stage 1 on that bike.

Have fun at Sturgis, my friend!  I'm jealous!

[SteveFLHTK]

What I have is all Fullsac, the X-pipe will be going on the bike after Sturgis.  I was actually hoping for a tad more performance with a new map and the AC.  The bike loses speed too quickly on slight grades.

[FLTRI]

A stage 1 TTS will for sure help...as long as with stock head pipe and stock or SE slip ons and air filter.
Also the exhaust mfg may have a good calibration to offer you.
Bob

[Buckeye_Tuning]

Yes, you will in truth gain ZIP with only an AC.  Now... you WOULD gain a bit from tuning your 100% stock bike, but that was NOT the OP.

Go to Sturgis and don't sweat it.  Go stock with stock tune, because if you are time wise unable to optimize the tune, a canned map won't truly help much with your bike.

It sounds to me that you are on the right track, tho.  When you get back... install that AC.  Install those Fullsacs.  Install and tune with TTS.

Those three things WILL wake the bike up, because THAT is a full on Stage1.

[FLTRI]

John,
Consider this:
By loading the stage 1 TTS calibration it will for sure add fuel to open loop areas which helps cool combustion temps under high loading such as bucking headwind, uphill, heavily loaded, high altitude, or all of it.

Also he could change the closed loop to a bit richer target which will also cool the radiated heat.

Bob

[SERK3]

Since this is about Trikes & Exhaust a friend of mine just bought a new Trike & like the most of us hated the sound of stock mufflers, So gave him a set of V&H Classic Sip-Ons.

Question: If he keeps the stock pipes but removes the Cat & uses a K&N Air Filter with the V&H mufflers will he have to re map??

[SteveFLHTK]

 Serk3, yes.

[FLTR2008TRIKE]

John,
Consider this:
By loading the stage 1 TTS calibration it will for sure add fuel to open loop areas which helps cool combustion temps under high loading such as bucking headwind, uphill, heavily loaded, high altitude, or all of it.

Also he could change the closed loop to a bit richer target which will also cool the radiated heat.

Bob

Your making an assumption on the map the OP would load. Many of the maps I looked at for my 124" had spark tables that were advanced to the point the added fuel trim would still cause spark. Additionally each engine runs differently no matter if they have the same build components. This is a known fact. Add in the added weight the OP is hauling becasue its a trike as I stated before, this will change all the variables that would apply to a 2 wheel lighter bike.

Adding fuel without looking at the whole setup and not monitoring the system to see how the engine will respond before taking a long trip without a tune, is like being blind folded spun in a circle and than trying to hit the side of a barn. Some will get lucky, others wont

[FLTRI]

No assumptions. I made my recommendation based on HIS bike and build...which is a stock 103 trike.
A DTA or DTQ cal should work very well...one prolly better than the other.
Definitely worth the download, IME,
Bob