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[grc]

Being the first year of the Water Head, I would definitely pay the Dealer to do the 1k service, after that if you want to do the work yourself, or save a couple of bucks to have an Indy do it, just make sure that you keep a detailed log and receipts.
Keep in mind while you are saving a few bucks on servicing your new $40k CVO, How many Indys are up to date on the twin cooled bikes?

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes.  The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies.  I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade.  You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance.  And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training.  This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable.  Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch?  I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection.  If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley.  It is most definitely not rocket science.  And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist.  Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification.   If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change.  Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip.  Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself.  It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

[grtguy657]

The Dealer covered my first service , came with the deal haven't had it done yet ,still have about 400 miles to go 13 limited. They said the usual cost is about 360.00 and I can watch them do the service. Panama City Harley, Panama City ,Fl.

[FlaHeatWave]

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes.  The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies.  I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade.  You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance.  And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training.  This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable.  Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch?  I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection.  If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley.  It is most definitely not rocket science.  And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist.  Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification.   If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change.  Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip.  Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself.  It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

Jerry, you are 100% correct as usual. For me, paying the extra$ to have it done at my Dealer (a family run, single Dealership) has paid off many, many times over the years, I'm way ahead on this one!
Your results may vary...

[garretn]

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch?  I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection.  If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley.  It is most definitely not rocket science.  And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist.  Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification.   If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change.  Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip.  Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself.  It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry
[/quote]

I picked up everything I need to do the service on the way home yesterday.  I had a little time to look it over last night and everything I checked has been tight.  Coolant level correct, Brake pads still good (really, I would hope so in 700 miles)

I need to put a few miles on it today and then do the fluid changes.  Pull out the manual and look up the belt adjustment procedure i'm hoping it gives me some idea how much deflection I should have without using the special tool they sell.  If not no big deal I am still $350 ahead at this point.  

[grc]

I believe the belt spec remains the same as the 2012-2013 Touring models, 0.24"-0.44" measured midway between the trans and rear wheel sprockets while applying 10 pounds of force.  The plastic belt guard has a window where the measurement should be taken.

Ten pounds of force doesn't sound like much, but unless you have a really tough finger it can be somewhat painful to achieve that force with a finger and hold it very long.  To get an idea of how much it will take, find something around the house that weighs ten pounds and use a single finger to hold it up.  You might prefer using a short hammer handle or something similar so that you can use your entire hand to press against the belt versus one finger.  If you plan to continue doing your own maintenance I would recommend buying the tool though; they can be found on the 'net for around $20. 

Jerry

[hdaliaconis]

 

You could also ask how many Harley service department employees are truly up to date on the twin cooled bikes.  The answer is likely to be no better than the percentage for the indies.  I've been in more than one dealership where the folks in service weren't fully knowledgeable about stuff Harley has had for a decade.  You can still find plenty of dealer employees who are clueless when it comes to things like ABS and ETC for instance.  And here's the kicker; the guy doing the 1k service is highly unlikely to be the top technician in the shop who actually got the new model training.  This type of service is usually assigned to the least capable guy in the shop, not the most capable.  Some places use these service interval jobs as a step up for the wash boy for pete's sake.

Is there anything on that 1k checklist specific to the water cooling system, other than the general tick point of checking the fluid level and visually inspecting for leaks that they use for things like the brakes and hydraulic clutch?  I don't think it takes a graduate of H-D University (or even McDonald's University) to handle that kind of simple inspection.  If a person can check the fluid level on their car, and look for puddles of green or orange or whatever color coolant is involved, then I'm pretty sure they can do the same on a Harley.  It is most definitely not rocket science.  And there is no guarantee that the guy at the dealership will actually check anything on that checklist.  Many don't.

Anyway, my point is that using a simple cooling system to justify paying three times what the service is worth is false justification.   If you enjoy being ripped off, then pay five hundred bucks for a simple fluid and filter change.  Hell, throw in another hundred as a tip.  Or, spend a hundred bucks on lubes and a filter, sixty bucks on a manual, and do it yourself.  It's the only way you will know for sure what was and what wasn't actually done.

Jerry

  X2

[hdaliaconis]

I believe the belt spec remains the same as the 2012-2013 Touring models, 0.24"-0.44" measured midway between the trans and rear wheel sprockets while applying 10 pounds of force.  The plastic belt guard has a window where the measurement should be taken.

Ten pounds of force doesn't sound like much, but unless you have a really tough finger it can be somewhat painful to achieve that force with a finger and hold it very long.  To get an idea of how much it will take, find something around the house that weighs ten pounds and use a single finger to hold it up.  You might prefer using a short hammer handle or something similar so that you can use your entire hand to press against the belt versus one finger.  If you plan to continue doing your own maintenance I would recommend buying the tool though; they can be found on the 'net for around $20. 

Jerry

Buy the tool to check the belt.  I will come in handy.  My experience has been that once the initial adjustment is made I haven't had to do it again but use the tool to check the belt at regular intervals.  Also since I remove and re-install my own wheels for new tires, I check the belt tension as part of the re-install.  I have the belt tension cam marked but double check with the belt tension tool just to be sure. 

[grc]

I agree, after the initial belt adjustment the belt seems to remain adjusted for a long time.  A new belt has a thin layer of material that acts as a wear layer/lubricant for break-in as the belt beds in to the sprockets.  Having that wear off during the initial break-in is what contributes the most to the need for readjustment at the first service, not any real "stretching" of the belt.  But it still makes sense to check when you do your normal service just in case, and the tool makes that much easier.

Jerry

[hdaliaconis]

A good friend is retired from Gates Rubber (who he claims developed the cog belt) said that the Gates belts are good for 100K miles!  Most miles I personally put on one belt was 60K.  Don't know who makes the HD belts now.  Most likely come from China. 

[garretn]

Service was easy..  I do have a couple of basic questions.

1.  Following the directions in the manual it doesn't say anything about filling the new oil filter with oil before installing it.  I always have but didn't just simply because it didn't say to do it.  Initial startup after oil change leads me to believe my decision to follow the manual was wrong since it made quite a bit of noise until the oil pressure picked up.  3 seconds maybe.  Does everyone else prime the filters?

2.  Transmission fluid check.  The manual says screw it in until the seal touches and fill until it's between the lines.  My Shop manual for the 09-SG says not to screw it in when checking which is correct?  I added the amount of oil the manual says to put back in it and now if I check it screwed in its over full, not screwed in just right.  What is the correct process for checking this?

Thanks  in advance for the assistance.

[grc]

Since the filter is horizontal when installed you can't really fill it beforehand anyway.  You can put a few ounces in it if you want, and I do, but it won't be enough to keep the oil pressure from not coming up for many seconds after starting the bike.  If you have decent lifters that don't immediately leak down when you shut the bike off, the engine really shouldn't be significantly noisier when you first start it up after an oil change unless you rev it up.  It isn't a problem, and it's been that way for as long as Harley has had oil filters mounted horizontally (a long time).  If it really bothers you there is a relatively easy way to prime the system before you fire the engine up.  Pull the sparkplugs, leave the ignition OFF, and use a simple jumper wire to energize the starter and let it turn the engine (and oil pump) over for ten seconds.  Reinstall the plugs and wires, turn on the ignition and fire it up.

As for the trans fluid checking instructions, they made that change initially in 2012 for the Trikes, and followed that by changing it for all Big Twins for the 2013 model year.  The specs for fluid fill are usually a range, like 28-32 ounces for an example.  That usually means that a completely dry system requires 32 ounces, and one that has just had the fluid drained normally will require somewhere between 28 and 32 ounces depending on how well the system was drained.  By adding less than the full amount and then using the dipstick to verify the level before topping off you can avoid overfilling.  If it's only slightly over the full mark I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's a lot then you can use a small turkey baster type of device (or really big eyedropper) to suck the excess out.  If you use the wife's turkey baster, I wouldn't let her know about it and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it back where you found it when you're done since trans lubes have some very nasty and hazardous stuff in them.

Jerry

[garretn]

If it really bothers you there is a relatively easy way to prime the system before you fire the engine up.  Pull the sparkplugs, leave the ignition OFF, and use a simple jumper wire to energize the starter and let it turn the engine (and oil pump) over for ten seconds.  Reinstall the plugs and wires, turn on the ignition and fire it up.

It doesn't bother me that much

As for the trans fluid checking instructions, they made that change initially in 2012 for the Trikes, and followed that by changing it for all Big Twins for the 2013 model year.  The specs for fluid fill are usually a range, like 28-32 ounces for an example.  That usually means that a completely dry system requires 32 ounces, and one that has just had the fluid drained normally will require somewhere between 28 and 32 ounces depending on how well the system was drained.  By adding less than the full amount and then using the dipstick to verify the level before topping off you can avoid overfilling.  If it's only slightly over the full mark I wouldn't worry about it, but if it's a lot then you can use a small turkey baster type of device (or really big eyedropper) to suck the excess out.  If you use the wife's turkey baster, I wouldn't let her know about it and it probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it back where you found it when you're done since trans lubes have some very nasty and hazardous stuff in them.

Jerry

My wife has had a couple of funnels disappear over the years..       Its just slightly above the full.  I will be more careful next round and not add what they say to put back.    I did that with the oil and left it about 1/2 quart low..

Thanks again for the help with this basic stuff.

[hdaliaconis]

What is it with wives?  Can't use the turkey baster, measuring cups, casserole dishes, etc.  I was them out with brakes parts cleaner every time I use them!   

[sadunbar]

What is it with wives?  Can't use the turkey baster, measuring cups, casserole dishes, etc.  I was them out with brakes parts cleaner every time I use them!   

Oh you can use them.  You can even acquire them.  You just can't let your wife into your tools and work space so she finds them.      

[hdaliaconis]

Oh you can use them.  You can even acquire them.  You just can't let your wife into your tools and work space so she finds them.      

Amen on that! I have what I call sacrificial tools that I leave out where she can find them and keep my good tools out of sight.