Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[cambo]

Just checked the bike and apparently not having floorboards does have its advantages! I just need to remove the derby cover and the primary cover (in that order). Waiting to receive the tensioner from Hayden.

Did you guys use the teflon tape for the drain plug? Some of the videos I checked out used the tape to wrap the plug and some didn't.

[05Train]

No teflon tape.  Inspect the O-ring for tears: if it's good, reuse and re-torque.

Shame you're looking to do this so quickly.  I'd invite you over to use the lift, and we could knock out both bikes at once.  But I'm not gonna be ready to do it until late May or early June.

[cambo]

No teflon tape.  Inspect the O-ring for tears: if it's good, reuse and re-torque.

Shame you're looking to do this so quickly.  I'd invite you over to use the lift, and we could knock out both bikes at once.  But I'm not gonna be ready to do it until late May or early June.

As concerned as I am that I might screw this thing up, I can easily be talked into waiting until you are ready to join the party!

[moscooter]

 
A few model years back,  the primary drain plug had tapered pipe threads and thus some Teflon tape was helpful to seal it.

Last few years have brought about a normally threaded plug that uses an o ring to seal it.

[dicko]

Dick,

Three quick questions:
Any problems with removing the stock tensioner?
With the bike being so new, did you have to replace the gaskets?
Did you measure the clearance?

No problem getting the H-D tensioner out.  I unbolted it and it slipped right out. 

I reused both the primary case cover gasket and the derby cover gasket after carefully inspecting them and wiping both the gaskets and their mating surfaces.  I only had 800 miles on the bike so they were basically brand new. 

I also reused the primary oil figuring that they would change it out anyway at the 1,000 mile service.  I didn't lose any oil so the level is probably OK but, interestingly, the service manual only specifies the fill amount and not how to check the level.

I did measure the clearance on the Hayden tensioner after it was torqued in and found the clearance to be just shy of 2/8" which gives me over 1/8" for future wear.

I put about 50 miles on the bike today and really love the way it shifts.

     -Dick-

[cambo]

OK - Done!!!!

First of all - Thank you Russ (05Train). It was great meeting you and I really appreciate all your help and I am jealous of the lift table. I got to get me one of those!!

So here it goes:

You need - The Hayden Tensioner
                1.5 Quarts of Primary fluid - I used Formula + (one purchased and one donated by 05Train)
                Torque Wrench
                Zip ties

Optional:
                A lift table or finding someone who has one. It is much much easier doing this standing up. Otherwise It would be possible but more painful.

Optional step before all other steps for the project:
Assemble, clamp down and use zip tie(s) on the tensioner so the Hayden unit can be slipped in easier. Doing this before you get your hands oily (as you drain the primary fluid) will make it easier to work with the clamps/zip ties.

[cambo]

Step one: With the bike on the jiffy stand, unscrew the drain plug (pic below) and drain the oil.

[cambo]

Wait until the oil is drained as much as possible (stops pouring out of the case), stand the bike upright, and wait until the oil stops flowing out completely. Screw the drain plug back in and hand tighten for now.

[cambo]

Remove the primary derby cover. Loosen all the bolts first and then remove them and the cover.

[cambo]

Now it's time to remove the primary cover. Loosen all the bolts first, then unscrew the bolts completely and remove it and the gasket and put them away. Using a rag clean the surface as much as possible. Now the HD tensioner will be visible.

[cambo]

Unscrew the tensioner fasteners and remove the stock tensioner.

[cambo]

This part was the toughest part for us. The bike has less than 4000 miles on it and the Hayden tensioner did not want to fit where it needed to. We used a quick release clamp to press the tensioner springs down, used a zip tie to hold it down and used a specialized tool, otherwise known as a wooden spoon to push it under the chain. Please note the wooden spoon is a gen-u-wine HD Screamin' Eagle model.

Cut and remove the zip tie before using the torque wrench to tighten the fasteners.

Tighten the tensioner fasteners using the torque wrench according to HD specifications found in the service manual.

[cambo]

Now time to tighten the drain plug and put the primary cover/gasket back on and tighten the fasteners using the torque wrench. Then put 1.4 Qts (for a Breakout - check the service manual for your bike) of Formula+ back into the primary thusly:

[cambo]

Now lower the table lift, take bike off the lift, and do a smoke test by taking the bike for a spin, as demonstrated by Russ below:

[cambo]

Initial impressions after riding for about 60+ miles, the biggest difference is downshift/deceleration. Much, much smoother and quieter to downshift all the way to the first gear. Before the switch I could tell first gear was selected while downshifting because of a pronounced 'whine' loud enough for me to hear even with the loud pipes I have on my bike. Now the bike is quiet regardless of the gear selection.

I want to thank Russ again. The job IS easy enough for a noob to handle alone. But having someone around who has done it before makes it easier to not make any mistakes. Besides, without his table lift and, just and importantly, the S/E wooden spoon, it would have taken me twice as long to get the dang tensioner to squeeze in there.

On a scale of 1-10 this mod is a 3 IMO. So easy even I could do it!

Russ please let me know if I missed anything.

Let me know if any questions.