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[JoeVibe]

I can't speak for everyone else, but for ME, this is EXACTLY what I want.

That was my goal too!

[INDEPENDENT_1]

Said it before and say it again, "my recipe" using the S&S crate 124" motor and throttle hog, Baker Street door, Baker HD throwout bearing, Baker attitude adjuster, Evolution Industries billet steel clutch. Just bolt the parts on, put in a stellar tune and ride it and don't do anything except buy tires oil and brakes from that point forward. You've got a big dumb motor that is detuned enough that it won't run hot and it runs tons of oil pressure and volume. You've got 3 stand up USA made companies that stand behind their products. Quitcher bitchin' and ride it. Bet it's got more balls than most riders are willing to push the limits of and will hold up a long time.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Our HO(not crate engines or generic, garden-variety builds) 117", or 124" engines just keep on truckin'.
Have a Syracuse, N.Y., client with over 85,000 miles on his 124".
'Nuff said.
Scott

[prodrag1320]

I can't speak for everyone else, but for ME, this is EXACTLY what I want.

I do a lot of 124"`s for guys looking for the same thing,building one right now.10.5-1,S&S .585 cams,110 heads.VERY reliable motor with very nice power too

[HD Street Performance]

The motors being described are in the high 120s to mid 130hp range and I have no doubt they are reliable. The op mentioned he wanted 150 out of this 6speed motorcycle. Apples and oranges.

[ltank]

I got a S&S V111 not quite the 124 but I got over 40,000 mile without a single problem!

[Dr.D]

Posts 46-48 sound like nice motors that really could be a nice strong touring ride. The Hp #'s that the OP is wanting rule out the touring ideology.  Buy what you want just know what you are buying.

[Steve Cole]

Buy what you want just know what you are buying.

Seems I hit a nerve around here with my comments but the above statement about says it all. I have yet to see any HD based engine make about 130 that will fit the touring crowd and that's why I stated it. People want more, but then when things start falling apart they wonder why. Sure I want more, don't we all, but knowing when to stop for the intended purpose also needs to play into the picture. If you plan this kind of power and want to tour, it takes a bunch more parts to get the bike close to being reliable for Touring. The engine is just the beginning of the upgrades. Living in the LA area with our traffic and heat just kills these bigger power builds. It's not the size of the displacement of the engine yet the power they make. So if it's a 103 making 130 square or a 124 doing it really doesn't much matter. Transmissions and belts will start breaking, engines will over heat, clutches fail, compensator's will fail quicker, ect.

So you need to keep upgrading other components along with the engine to keep the engine reliable and the bike reliable. As long as you know and understand this great, do a high HP build and enjoy it, but if you plan to tour, you had better build something that's going to run on the crap fuel we have these days all around the country and live with lower power numbers. IMHO an 11:1 engine just isn't going to cut it in these larger displacement engines with what we have to live with today for Touring. I would much rather see a 10:1 engine making 120 square that will run all day on 89 octane with out over heating and enjoy it.

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

..................a crate S&S 124/.640 cam is 10.8 cr, .2 of of a point shy of 11.0.........and low an behold we have a client in Syracuse, N.Y, that has 85,000 plus miles on his cross-country touring bike. .2 of a point of compression on those builds is NOT a game changer. No way, no how, even on Sundays.
It is not the mechanical number that the compression is set at, but rather the ccp.
That bike would not still have issues if in fact the squeeze was brought up 1/2 a point, only ting that would change would probably be better fuel economy..............oh yeah, and almost forgot, the fun also..............

And that's right, the service manuals want 91 octane.........

[grc]

"i need 150 hp to the rear wheel"

You may WANT 150 rwhp, but I seriously doubt you NEED 150 rwhp.  Are you planning to race that Hog, or do you just want bragging rights at the local watering hole?  If you want some serious horsepower, forget making the engine bigger and get yourself a nice blower setup instead.  It's not going to be terribly reliable anyway, so just go for the big numbers.  Really impress those other guys, at least while it's actually running.

Jerry

[Steve Cole]

The mechanical number is important and as the displacement gets larger it becomes more and more important. If it didn't matter than 8:1 should be fine and we all know that's not the case. Fuel across the country varies and an 11:1 engine isn't going to run properly on much of the fuel that is out there today. As a matter of fact 10.5 is pushing it with any combination of camshaft design on a large displacement engine. Small displacement engine are different. If you really think that people are going to run 130 square plus and not have other issues and a shorter life engine and bike, you are dreaming. I've been at this a long time and what I've said is what I and many others have seen. Let's see who here has a big HP build (130 +) and has had no issues for 20K+. No customers brothers uncle stuff but a personal owner that can come in and tell us what they have and the miles on the build with Nothing done other than changing the oil filter and such. Then, tell use what non-stock parts are on the bike. There is going to be a long list of other non engine parts that have/had to be upgraded to handle the power and I've list just a few of these before.

[Dr.D]

"i need 150 hp to the rear wheel"

You may WANT 150 rwhp, but I seriously doubt you NEED 150 rwhp.  Are you planning to race that Hog, or do you just want bragging rights at the local watering hole?  If you want some serious horsepower, forget making the engine bigger and get yourself a nice blower setup instead.  It's not going to be terribly reliable anyway, so just go for the big numbers.  Really impress those other guys, at least while it's actually running.

Jerry

Ain't want and need the same word?

If the OP wants 150rwhp then he should buy that, no matter what is cost or how it lasts. As long as he goes in head up and in the know then there ain't no problem if and when he comes apart. It might make for a great tale about black and blue smoke every where.

[Classic Beast]

My 127 makes 145 tq and 140hp it has about 40,000 on it yes it caused grief with the baker DD6 and I had to swap out the belt for a chain, the S&S clutch holds up perfectly no issues but lots of heavily loaded touring on this into vegas down to new mexico I have a jag oil cooler on it but it it has only been to 220 once, running a 51mm SE carb and Rb racing black hole pipe, I ride it very hard, Burnouts, full throttle bang shifts etc, it doesn't use any oil It doesn't run as good on 89 for sure it pings but 91 or 93 is just fine. This is a 4.25 bore with 4.5 stroke. The only things I changed from how it was delivered from Ultima is I put in S&S lifters right at the beginning and the 51mm SE carb which is much better than the 45mm mikuni that it came with, it really screams lots of power from about 2000 rpm and up to about 5200, I did try a bigger cam but ended up putting the 640 lift 268 duration cam it came with back in as it worked better. I used Mobil one at the beginning and switched to Syn3 for most of it's life, I might pull it down this winter, check the run out on the flywheels etc but it runs great. 10.2 compression.

[Classic Beast]

My next upgrade I have been thinking about is to put in the 126 S&S motor, this does make 150hp with 4 3/8 bore

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]