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[Steve Cole]

My 127 makes 145 tq and 140hp it has about 40,000 on it yes it caused grief with the baker DD6 and I had to swap out the belt for a chain, the S&S clutch holds up perfectly no issues but lots of heavily loaded touring on this into vegas down to new mexico I have a jag oil cooler on it but it it has only been to 220 once, running a 51mm SE carb and Rb racing black hole pipe, I ride it very hard, Burnouts, full throttle bang shifts etc, it doesn't use any oil It doesn't run as good on 89 for sure it pings but 91 or 93 is just fine. This is a 4.25 bore with 4.5 stroke. The only things I changed from how it was delivered from Ultima is I put in S&S lifters right at the beginning and the 51mm SE carb which is much better than the 45mm mikuni that it came with, it really screams lots of power from about 2000 rpm and up to about 5200, I did try a bigger cam but ended up putting the 640 lift 268 duration cam it came with back in as it worked better. I used Mobil one at the beginning and switched to Syn3 for most of it's life, I might pull it down this winter, check the run out on the flywheels etc but it runs great. 10.2 compression.

Perfect, real person admitting it took more than just the engine. Something that others need to know if they want similar results.

127 cu in @ 10.2:1
S&S Lifters
New Transmission
S&S Clutch
Change from Belt drive to Chain drive
Added oil Cooler
Synthetic Oil
Requires 91 or better fuel to run properly

This is what people need to know and understand when thinking of doing a similar build and expecting it to live. Here in CA 91 fuel is the best we can buy and I know it's that way in other states as well. Lets hope more owners will chime in with what it really takes to keep a big HP build going. This way people may save themselves some up front by knowing what it really takes. Thanks for sharing with us.

[fastfreddy]

mine is just a lill 110 build with 124 hp 126 trq i did replace clutch & comp at time of build and so far its broke the trans and the comp starting make some noise...but it sure is a lot fun...and i do under stand toys break, its part of the fun 

[Steve Cole]

So how many miles from the build with the engine, compensator and clutch to the broken transmission? How many more until lastly the new compensator starting to make noise. These are just what I've been talking about and if enough people share information I bet were going to be able to clearly see how often what components fail versus the power output of the build. I really do not believe it has to do with the size of the engine but the performance level of the engine. Sure some are going to get more or less miles out of the same package due to how they ride but over all it going to show a trend of failed parts versus power output. Good information for all to see.

[laylonlor]

i'm running a 110 with the same no's as you, i still have stock fly wheels in mine , but i was gonna tear it down to ck. things out,and was thinking of going bigger, using my stock cases , and bigger fly wheels,

mine is just a lill 110 build with 124 hp 126 trq i did replace clutch & comp at time of build and so far its broke the trans and the comp starting make some noise...but it sure is a lot fun...and i do under stand toys break, its part of the fun 

[fastfreddy]

it only took 5k miles after the build for tranny to break and 6.5k miles for the comp noise, it also ate up the best part of the rear tire  im sure my  riding style has a lot to do with it...but like i said its a toy and im not mad about any of it, heck ive been breaking hot rods for 35 plus years, its how i keep my self from thinking about getting old 

[laylonlor]

you running a bagger? i need some extra hp to run with the non baggers...lol

it only took 5k miles after the build for tranny to break and 6.5k miles for the comp noise, it also ate up the best part of the rear tire  im sure my  riding style has a lot to do with it...but like i said its a toy and im not mad about any of it, heck ive been breaking hot rods for 35 plus years, its how i keep my self from thinking about getting old 

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Leave it stock, run a dished piston to lower the compression so kerosene can be run in it.
Done deal.

[Zee110]

Everybody should know it costs money to go fast  Well at least everybody............!

[Steve Cole]

I do not think this is about spending money to go fast, hell I do not even want to know what I've spent on my toys. Look at the crazy prices we all spend just to own a HD. It's more about what should be done to let people understand the limits of the package. IMHO trying to run anymore than 120/120 and expecting it to live as well as a stock engine (which isn't saying a whole lot these days) is unreal, unless many other non-engine upgrades are also made to go along with it. If these were done upfront many of the related failures should become a non-issue. If your plans are to run the bike across the country and Tour there needs to be a certain expectation of reliability in order to do it. Just because we can turn the power up doesn't mean we should all the time, and letting people know where to stop for the intended purpose, its going to be used in, has to be a part of that at some point.

For me I love the power and will always search for more, as the old saying goes...... The definition of enough power is when you never find the end of the throttle!

[mvent]

No doubt , drive train has to be upgraded, in my case 128/136 ,belt,pulley, mainshaft,baker inner primary race all junk in 12k miles, never did a burnout FWIW. Rear tires every 4k miles, but does get 40mpg!

[JohnCA58]

I agree with SC,  I am running a 120 151hp 146tq   got 30K on this 120,  toured the midwest 2 times, ride the bike everyday and see more than 200 miles most weekends.  primary 24t and 37t and is set up with SO hyd tensioner and full Bandit clutch and basket set up,  trans is Baker OD6, EKzzz 530 chain with 23t and 55t sprockets,  5th gear is 3.68 and OD is 3.17.   get 38 mpg   tune is the most important and done by Bob at RC,   also running 10 row Jagg with Sky fans and head fans by Wards Part Werks.  I keep the rpm's between 3K and 3500 and give me 70 to 86 mph.  rarely let the rpm's below 3k unless it is flat or downhill,  and this is a MM bike.   all the work is perform by me and no problem taking the bike on the road with no worries. king tour pak goes on the bike when touring.

[Dr.D]

09 CVO Fatbob with the with the HD 110 upgrade. hc 10.5 pistons, 259e cam with perfect fit pushrods, springs gaskets ect. Propipe and tuned on the dyno 110.74hp and 120ft/lb torque. I have over 15k trouble free miles since the build and love the bike.

In my limited I want to stay a bit more conservative and quiet.

[SDCVO]

I agree with SC,  I am running a 120 151hp 146tq   got 30K on this 120,  toured the midwest 2 times, ride the bike everyday and see more than 200 miles most weekends.  primary 24t and 37t and is set up with SO hyd tensioner and full Bandit clutch and basket set up,  trans is Baker OD6, EKzzz 530 chain with 23t and 55t sprockets,  5th gear is 3.68 and OD is 3.17.   get 38 mpg   tune is the most important and done by Bob at RC,   also running 10 row Jagg with Sky fans and head fans by Wards Part Werks.  I keep the rpm's between 3K and 3500 and give me 70 to 86 mph.  rarely let the rpm's below 3k unless it is flat or downhill,  and this is a MM bike.   all the work is perform by me and no problem taking the bike on the road with no worries. king tour pak goes on the bike when touring.

Agree with tuning being one of the most important parts.Bob tuned mine also (1200 mile round trip to have him do it and would do it again) and is making 138/139 on a crate 120r and has had zero motor issues in 10000 miles in all conditions. I run it very hard but it is also great when following some buddies that "are in no rush"...

[HILLSIDECYCLE.COM]

Guess that about wraps that up..............
Scott

[HD Street Performance]

John
That is one great looking bike! I can appreciate all the work it took to get there from the early model year start.