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[dano]

I'm changing the compensator on my 09 CVO ROAD GLIDE. Does anyone know how to remove the old stator? Thanks in advance Dano

[MrSurly]

It's a bit of a chore. In fact, it's a really good reason to buy the shop manual for your bike.
The steps are more than I want to type, but the info is out there. You can find youtube videos of the whole process.
You will need a few 'special' tools, and patience. Once the primary chain and the compensator assembly has been removed it's really simple after that.
You REALLY should have the manual on hand before tearing this apart. (my opinion)

[dano]

I have the shop manual and have the old comp off, just can't get the stator off. The manual says to pull it off with 2 hands. Is it the magnet holding or am I missing something in the manual?

[MrSurly]

The rotor is covering the stator and the rotor's magnets make it very difficult to pull away from the stator.

The stator is bolted to the engine case and the rotor slips over it but the rotor has a bunch of really stout magnets in it which are very strong.
Jim's sells a tool to make it easier but you can thread a couple of bolts into the tapped holes in the rotor. DON"T run them more than a few threads in, then grasp the screws and pull it away being careful not to let the magnets 'slam' it back into place.

[Ghost__Rider]

I presume you are talking about the rotor and not the stator. The magnet is tough sucker. They actually make a tool to assist pulling it off. Its possible to damage a magnet if you let it slip and pull itself back on. The stator has about 6 screws holding it on. This is the tool I use, from JP cycles.

[MrSurly]

What he said. here's another version of a tool for rotor pulling

[dano]

Looks like the inner primary has to come off so the rotor will clear the case to get it off

[MrSurly]

No, it doesn't.
ironically, tho, if you went ahead and pulled the inner primary you wouldn't need the tool at all as you'd be able to just grip it with your hand.

 Try this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8yF423yz5I

[Twolanerider]

Looks like the inner primary has to come off so the rotor will clear the case to get it off

This is only anecdotal.  So don't take it as gospel.  I've removed a few of the 06 and up stators and never had to remove the inner primary for the R&R.  Having said that have read of several instances where guys said they had to.  This included guys whose patience/skills were those I'd trust to know for sure what they were seeing.  Don't know if there's a difference in inner primaries over the years or (and this wouldn't surprise me from Harley at all) a slight casting variation that causes this on some and doesn't on others; but yours is not the first that's been discussed with this issue.

[Ghost__Rider]

Some of the inner primary cases have a lip that won't allow the rotor to come past far enough to be removed. I may be wrong but my 2010 limited it wouldn't come past the lip. Either way, it takes about 30 minutes more to just remove the inner case.

[MrSurly]

Another thing to consider: the rotor has internal teeth that engage the spline on the shaft. The teeth can become damaged causing the rotor to jam on the shaft. It is supposed to be a slip fit over the spline. Examine the fit there to see if the teeth and the spline could be galled. Look for heat discoloration.

[dano]

Mine is hitting the case on the bottom corner so the inner will have to come off.  Does the starter come with the case or does it get removed first?

[Twolanerider]

Mine is hitting the case on the bottom corner so the inner will have to come off.  Does the starter come with the case or does it get removed first?

If the clutch is already out of the way can't think of any reason starter couldn't come off with the housing.  But with cables attached and whatever else might be in the way I'd unscrew the two bolts and leave it there.  Pretty sure it'd be easier to leave it there rather than take it out with the inner primary.

[dano]

I will have to pull the clutch yet.  Any tips on how to get it off. I've only taken one off a non hydraulic and the manual I have doesn't show hydraulic

[sadunbar]

This is only anecdotal.  So don't take it as gospel.  I've removed a few of the 06 and up stators and never had to remove the inner primary for the R&R.  Having said that have read of several instances where guys said they had to.  This included guys whose patience/skills were those I'd trust to know for sure what they were seeing.  Don't know if there's a difference in inner primaries over the years or (and this wouldn't surprise me from Harley at all) a slight casting variation that causes this on some and doesn't on others; but yours is not the first that's been discussed with this issue.

I've had it go both ways.  It's a close fit either way.  On my personal bike, I cannot remove the rotor without removing the inner primary, but other bikes of the same vintage, I've been able to remove the rotor while leaving the inner primary in place.

[sadunbar]

If the clutch is already out of the way can't think of any reason starter couldn't come off with the housing.  But with cables attached and whatever else might be in the way I'd unscrew the two bolts and leave it there.  Pretty sure it'd be easier to leave it there rather than take it out with the inner primary.

It's absolutely easier to remove the two starter mounting fasteners than to try and leave the starter attached to the inner primary.... 

[dano]

Has anyone tried grinding the inside of the case to gain enough clearance ?

[sadunbar]

Has anyone tried grinding the inside of the case to gain enough clearance ?

Many have done so.  Very little material needs to be removed to provide clearance for the rotor.

I'd not grind clearance without first having removed the inner, however, as I don't think there are very many places in your primary you'd want metal grinding dust to invade...   

[Ghost__Rider]

It can be done............ It doesn't take a lot of grinding with carbide bit to get it to clear. I wasn't going to tell I did this once....

[mjb765]

FWIW I have tried to remove the rotor on my '11 and it does contact the inner primary.

[Twolanerider]

If the clutch is already out of the way can't think of any reason starter couldn't come off with the housing.  But with cables attached and whatever else might be in the way I'd unscrew the two bolts and leave it there.  Pretty sure it'd be easier to leave it there rather than take it out with the inner primary.

It's absolutely easier to remove the two starter mounting fasteners than to try and leave the starter attached to the inner primary....

Dammit Scott...  I was accused (again... [oy vey]) just a week or so ago of being a big dick and not being nearly touchy-feely and caring enough when trying to be helpful.  So here I am trying to be less direct and more subtle and nuanced and other such nonsensical bullchit and what happens?  You tell the guy the obvious and don't use any extra words at all....  Geez...  At least I'm not the overly direct asshole this time !

[sadunbar]

Dammit Scott...  I was accused (again... [oy vey]) just a week or so ago of being a big dick and not being nearly touchy-feely and caring enough when trying to be helpful.  So here I am trying to be less direct and more subtle and nuanced and other such nonsensical bullchit and what happens?  You tell the guy the obvious and don't use any extra words at all....  Geez...  At least I'm not the overly direct asshole this time !

I had to take my 81 year old father to a doctor appointment today, so I guess I'm in a very "direct" frame of mind...   

[Twolanerider]

I had to take my 81 year old father to a doctor appointment today, so I guess I'm in a very "direct" frame of mind...   

I understand and am not worthy .

[Dan_Lockwood]

This is what I found on changing out the compensator, rotor/stator etc.

Just a little grinding, not too much at all.

[dano]

I just did the same thing. Took about 5 minutes to do. Sure beats taking the inner off

[Rupert]

This is what my indy did, 5 min job.
IRT grinding, just take usual precautions in the surounding area. The rotor is coming off and you will be cleaning any metal on the stator magnets anyway.

[dano]

I used a vacuum the same time I was grinding then cleaned everything with brake cleaner and an air hose after that

[ltank]

I have used two nails bent slightly more than 90° and two vise grip pliers to hold the nails.The nails are inserted into the holes. Easy/Cheap

[porthole]

This is only anecdotal.  So don't take it as gospel.  I've removed a few of the 06 and up stators and never had to remove the inner primary for the R&R.  Having said that have read of several instances where guys said they had to.  This included guys whose patience/skills were those I'd trust to know for sure what they were seeing.  Don't know if there's a difference in inner primaries over the years or (and this wouldn't surprise me from Harley at all) a slight casting variation that causes this on some and doesn't on others; but yours is not the first that's been discussed with this issue.

Kinda like the 103 with the cam fly cuts?

[timtoolman]

2 Allen wrenches with pliers/V. Grips  on each works well also for removal


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rheiner]

This is what I found on changing out the compensator, rotor/stator etc.

Just a little grinding, not too much at all.

I have an oil leak on my 2010 SEUC where the stator cable comes out of the crank case so I need to pull my rotor to get at it. I removed the primary chain tensioner, compensator assembly and clutch assembly and I see that I have a slightly different lip on my inner primary.The lip that prevents pulling the rotor extends to the gasket surface which means it doesn't look like I can grind any material off without taking away gasket surface area for the primary cover. The only reason I can think that the moco would do this is to sell overpriced inner primary gaskets and inner primary bolts with the o-rings. Even after discount it's still $30 in parts that should not have to be spent with some half decent engineering, and for the guy that has to have the dealer do it it's more labor too. What's the best way to repair, clean it up and put some high temp black silicon gasket maker on the stator cable where it comes through the case?

On the bright side my -08A SE compensator with 20,000 miles on it appears to be in very good shape, no wear on the ramp lobes or teeth. There is some wet reddish brown rust looking material on the splines of the metal but it wipes off.

[rheiner]

I went to my dealer to ask him how to best repair the oil leak coming from the stator through the crankcase. I was told it isn't repairable, that the rubber wears down and replacement of the stator is needed. The good news is that it's covered by ESP.

[Twolanerider]

I went to my dealer to ask him how to best repair the oil leak coming from the stator through the crankcase. I was told it isn't repairable, that the rubber wears down and replacement of the stator is needed. The good news is that it's covered by ESP.

The dealer's desire or mother Harley's intent to sell a stator notwithstanding there is chemical sealant fix.  There's also nothing there that really "wears down" and the parts aren't moving.  Check the Permatex product line for a sealant product called "The Right Stuff."  It is good stuff.  You'll still want to remove the stator and clean the primary mating surface and the rubber nipple very well.  I've used this product to seal a few leaking stator plugs. 

[rheiner]

I got the new stator and installed it. There was some minor wear on the ribs of the rubber grommet of the old stator versus the new one. But the biggest difference was the grommet ribs were flimsy on the old one compared to the new one. There is clearly some movement of the grommet in the crank case bore in a Harley engine. The new stator's grommet ribs were very firm and shaped perfectly. I can see how all of the heat cycles and chain case oil does eventually take a toll on the grommet causing the oil leak. I suppose it is possible to repair the oil leak but in my situation that wasn't necessary.

[Twolanerider]

I got the new stator and installed it. There was some minor wear on the ribs of the rubber grommet of the old stator versus the new one. But the biggest difference was the grommet ribs were flimsy on the old one compared to the new one. There is clearly some movement of the grommet in the crank case bore in a Harley engine. The new stator's grommet ribs were very firm and shaped perfectly. I can see how all of the heat cycles and chain case oil does eventually take a toll on the grommet causing the oil leak. I suppose it is possible to repair the oil leak but in my situation that wasn't necessary.

Harley updated the stator a few years ago just to make those ribs better.  With no sealant the old ones leaked often.  The new one is definitely a better piece so you're not hurt at all making the change.  The old ones will seal with a good sealant installed.  But the new one is definitely a better part there.