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[MObe]

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[MObe]

  In my previous description I talk about using a 1K resistor in the hot lead of of left and right low power circuits, but my picture shows 2 x 100 ohm resistors in parallel which actually = 50 ohm. With this setup I had a LOT of alternator whine and spark noise. The fix was a single 1 watt 1000 ohm resistor on each hot lead from the low power speaker circuit. This stops the alternator whine and spark noise and sets the volume levels perfectly for the shure headphones. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused. I tried a floating ground adaptor but it is unnecessary, it does not improve upon just using both low power hot leads and only 1 ground lead, (DO NOT USE BOTH GROUND LEADS, ONLY THE LEFT OR THE RIGHT ALONE), ( I used the left low power ground lead to keep the wires a bit shorter). I ran my headphone jack to a point under the front of my seat as shown in the photos. (IF YOU CHOOSE TO USE A PANEL MOUNT HEADPHONE JACK MAKE SURE THAT IT IS ISOLATED FROM THE BIKE FRAME, IF A PANEL MOUNT JACK GETS GROUNDED IT COULD RUIN YOUR RADIO!) (I did this with a plastic mount). (I later changed to a shielded heavy duty radioshack extension cable with the jack built in and secured it to the bike with a zip tie. I used shielded cable to try to keep interference to a minimum since the cable has to pass very close to the ignition coils). I just finished the same type of install on my buddy Bob's '05 Yellow SEEG, but he wanted his jack in the inner fairing on the right side, so it did not require shielded cables and I was able to use a panel mount jack as the inner fairing keeps it away from grounding. The other thing that I and Bob have done is to order the I-jet remote setups for our i-pods. This setup gives a waterproof RF remote and transmits an FM signal. You can throw the i-pod in a saddlebag and control it with the remote and listen to it through the factory FM sound system. Slick. The shure e-3c headphones block as much ambient noise as a foam earplug so that the music comes through very clean without having to crank the volume.  This is a very enjoyable farkle.

[Puzzled]

MObe thanks for the write up. It will be very helpful for my buddies build.

I run some fancy molded ear phones (forget the company name, sorry) off of my rear speaker outputs. I'm amazed at how I can hear the music so clear with very little volume. I can hear someone talking to me while I have these in and the volume on. I very seldom use the external speakers.

[MObe]

Made another tweak to the headphone setup. 
Changed to a 2K, 3W, 1% tolerance wirewound resistor set.
Wirewound resistors are supposed to be much better than carbon film resistors. The only downside is cost compared to carbon film, not an issue here.
This took the alternator whine down to near zero, (the infinity system in my jeep has more whine),
made the volume level run at close to the same number of bars as the external speakers,
greatly improved bass response,
and the speed variable volume adjustment works near perfect.
I also switched to SHURE E4C headphones, much better separation and bass response.

To summarize:
Use the low power leads off the radio
Only use the ground from one side (I used the left ground)
Put a switch in the external speakers, (the only time you will now use them is when cleaning the bike)
Use a 2K ohm, 3w 1% tolerance wirewound resistor in the hot lead off of right and left sides
Use shielded cable for the earphone jack.

[Puzzled]

Where might one get this?

"Use a 2K ohm, 3w 1% tolerance wirewound resistor in the hot lead off of right and left sides"

Is this a Radioshack item? (Even though Radioshack no longer sells radio stuff )

[Twolanerider]

As secured, tidy and condensed as I can possibly make it.  Seeing Mike's images again reminds me just how much extra crap is shoehorned in there on the red bike.

[Fired00d]

As secured, tidy and condensed as I can possibly make it.  Seeing Mike's images again reminds me just how much extra crap is shoehorned in there on the red bike.

For your sake I hope they don't come out w/something new electronic on the '08's that will have to go inside the fairing. If they do my twin brotha from anotha mother is going to be hurting.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

For your sake I hope they don't come out w/something new electronic on the '08's that will have to go inside the fairing. If they do my twin brotha from anotha mother is going to be hurting.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

Too true Gary.  Too true.  Nothing else will fit on top of the radio/amp/XM unit without obstructing the fairing.  The extra brackets mounted to the inner fairing supports each have crossovers on one side and HID ballasts on the other.  The GDO x-mitter is now on the underside of the XM antenna bracket.

Then there's the relay pack for the saddlebag locks and their new harness.  The oil temp gauge's additional harness.  The amplifier and its harness.  The BIG harness for the HK radio and a tiny bit of extra wire for the HID lights.  And I'm probably missing something.....

Yeah, it is pretty full.

[Fired00d]

Too true Gary.  Too true.  Nothing else will fit on top of the radio/amp/XM unit without obstructing the fairing.  The extra brackets mounted to the inner fairing supports each have crossovers on one side and HID ballasts on the other.  The GDO x-mitter is now on the underside of the XM antenna bracket.

Then there's the relay pack for the saddlebag locks and their new harness.  The oil temp gauge's additional harness.  The amplifier and its harness.  The BIG harness for the HK radio and a tiny bit of extra wire for the HID lights.  And I'm probably missing something.....

Yeah, it is pretty full.

Well I hope they don't come out w/something you have to have. I would hate for you to be stuck trying to decide what you could do w/o so you could add something new.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d