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[porthole]

Never seize and proper torque 

[Twolanerider]

Never seize and proper torque 

^^ NOT good band names.   Just sayin'.

[J.D.]

This is really the first time in over 20 years of Harley wrenching and riding that I've heard of these particular bolts either becoming frozen or loosening.  Doesn't seem to be a regular problem, but obviously both do happen.

[Twolanerider]

This is really the first time in over 20 years of Harley wrenching and riding that I've heard of these particular bolts either becoming frozen or loosening.  Doesn't seem to be a regular problem, but obviously both do happen.

I've had them seem worryingly tight; but they still broke loose.  Never before had one choose to come apart though.  It went back together with Loctite so let's hope the pads outlive me!

[longlast]

Never seize and proper torque 

I'm using the Never Seize because the calipers are of a softer material then obviously the bolts are and there's definitely been
 corrosion taking place(I believe it's called  "Galvanic corrosion")

I had a good look at the threads on the caliper and the last threads in the hole that you can see from the back side of the caliper,..about 3 threads are not in the best of shape "pic show the end threads on the bolt,..damage caused by "Galvanic corrosion" in turn seized the bolt.

So it's a little dab will do me on the Never Seize and it's because I'm Never Seizing the threads I'm using safty wire bolts;D

[J.D.]

It is possible to use both anti-sieze and locktite on that bolt.  Put a dab of anti-sieze on the end of the female threads and a couple drops of locktite blue in the middle of the body of the bolts and be done with it.

[porthole]

My comment was geared towards proper torque yield is typically spec’d with clean dry threads.
Any foreign substance on the threads, grease, oil, anti seize, loctite etc has to be taken into consideration.

I'm using the Never Seize because the calipers are of a softer material then obviously the bolts are and there's definitely been
 corrosion taking place(I believe it's called  "Galvanic corrosion")

I had a good look at the threads on the caliper and the last threads in the hole that you can see from the back side of the caliper,..about 3 threads are not in the best of shape "pic show the end threads on the bolt,..damage caused by "Galvanic corrosion" in turn seized the bolt.

So it's a little dab will do me on the Never Seize and it's because I'm Never Seizing the threads I'm using safty wire bolts;D

[longlast]

My comment was geared towards proper torque yield is typically spec’d with clean dry threads.
Any foreign substance on the threads, grease, oil, anti seize, loctite etc has to be taken into consideration.

Oh I agree on the torque yield values are set on none contaminated threads (dry). In this case the torque for the mounting fasteners are 28/38 ft-lb being dry.
I'll  be putting a torque of 33ft-lb not really too worried about thread bending in the caliper holes at 33ft-lb with a shot of Never Seize and safety wire will ensure them not coming loose.
I just trying to reduce any further galvanic corrosion to take place I plan on having this bike for quite some time to come yet

[vtwinjim]

Cadmium plated bolts are used with aluminum because they are right next to each other on the galvanic chart so there's a low potential of voltage between the two.
Aluminum and titanium are about as far apart as you can get on the chart so there is a high voltage potential for galvanic corrosion. This combination is worse than aluminum against stainless steel.
Most titanium bolts should be coated as the aluminum is with anodizing most of the time. If while torquing, the threads break through the plating you can end up with corrosion. Might be what happened to your caliper bolt.
There are several different types of anti-sieze. One specifically for aluminum. The copper anti-sieze is designed for stainless steel and is highly conductive. You can look this up on the internet.
One of the advantages of blue Loctite like 243 is it also acts as a sealant. If you fully coat the threads and wipe off the excess after torquing you will have good retention and help prevent galvanic corrosion. Most of us grew up using 242 Loctite but when you use it on stainless and or aluminum, you should use their primer to ensure it cures. It also cures with heat so being so close to the rotors the heat from braking may do the trick.
You can read about this in their technical data sheets. I do not work for them but just work in an industry where we have to take great care in material selection, compatibility, and which chemicals we use.

[longlast]

Good info 

[Eqcons]

One of the advantages of blue Loctite like 243 is it also acts as a sealant. If you fully coat the threads and wipe off the excess after torquing you will have good retention and help prevent galvanic corrosion. Most of us grew up using 242 Loctite but when you use it on stainless and or aluminum, you should use their primer to ensure it cures. It also cures with heat so being so close to the rotors the heat from braking may do the trick.

That's good info indeed, Jim.  I've always used both 242 and 243 but thought the only advantage of 243 is where surfaces had oil contamination.  I know better now!  :-)

[vtwinjim]

I should clarify that both 242 and 243 can seal the threads. The problem is if you use enough to coat all the threads you have to be a little careful because a standard nut is only so thick whereas in the caliper the thread engagement may be much longer which may make it difficult to remove in the future. You're on your own if you use red Loctite.