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[WFP]

Bill,

Is it possible for you to mount and alignment bushing either to the threaded insert (preferred or to another part of the area that the screw threads into.  This would for the most part eliminate your cross threading problem.

Mike

Maybe, but  the alignment issue is a two-fold problem.  The fairing can move but the inner plate does not.  The bushing would have to be on the inner plate.  Now, the location or the fairing must be aligned perfectly as well.  I just must be an idiot with this one.

/Bill

[mfgreen]

Maybe, but

[WFP]

Think of all the James Bond movies...they all start with a look down the barrell of a gun from the "bullit's" perspective...  then the "hole" starts moving around the screen.  That is whit I feel it is like lining up the fairing screw threads.  They just bounce all over the place making it hard.

/Bill

[Twolanerider]

A buddy of mine nearly ruined the threaded hole on his Ultra a couple of years ago.

[mfgreen]

That is why I feel that a taper or flare on an alignment bushing would simplify your life.

Mike

[the O`Fender]

The first time I removed my fairing while replacing it I cross threaded one of the other inserts (the one by the speakers) I went to dealer and bought 2 inserts (less than 5 bucks) and it's a piece of cake to install the new one (I used RED thread lock on the backside of the insert) I keep the extra in my tool pouch in my saddlebags I also got a few extra of those bolts (i believe their 1/4-20x1") because once they start crossed they seem to be permanently F*#ked UP. Just a suggestion for some inexpensive purchases next time you hit the dealer.

[Twolanerider]

The first time I removed my fairing while replacing it I cross threaded one of the other inserts (the one by the speakers) I went to dealer and bought 2 inserts (less than 5 bucks) and it's a piece of cake to install the new one (I used RED thread lock on the backside of the insert) I keep the extra in my tool pouch in my saddlebags I also got a few extra of those bolts (i believe their 1/4-20x1") because once they start crossed they seem to be permanently F*#ked UP. Just a suggestion for some inexpensive purchases next time you hit the dealer.

That's outstanding news O'Fender.  Had never even asked at the shop if the insert were separately available.  Just assumed they were in with some permanent adhesive or voodoo of some kind.

Since you've been there and done that what is involved in removing and replacing one of the threaded inserts?

Thanks  [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]

[MObe]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think that the 2 screws up by the speakers screw into a male/female spacer bushing. This threaded spacer bushing screws into the threaded fairing cap insert. So if you screwed the threads up on one of these spacers it would be a snap to replace. At the bottom on the other hand there is no threaded spacer. The bottom two screws go directly into the threaded fairing cap insert.

[WFP]

Tap helped cleaning out the brass inserts.  The screws definately went in better but not perfect.  Thanks for the help.

I am thinking of putting studs (with loctite blue at first) in the inserts then using a nyloc nut to handle the two lower locations.  Will change to loctite red if it works.

/Bill

[Twolanerider]

Tap helped cleaning out the brass inserts.

[WFP]

The idea to use a stud just came about because I was told to use a TAP!  I wanted to see the actual angle the screw takes so I mounted the fairing with the tap still in so I could see...then the lightbulb went on.

No to see if the local Home Depot carries the right size stud and nylocs.

/Bill

[LETS_ROLL]

Bill, here's the exploded detail showing the piece where the screws thread into (# 6).

[porthole]

I saved it.

Hint, use a magnet when you take out the bottom screws, #6 & 7, otherwise you'll go nuts looking for it after you drop it!

[porthole]

garage door module is on the left side, visable in this picture below the speaker

[porthole]

and it looks like this