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Custom Vehicle Discussions => Screamin’ Eagle® Ultra Classic® Electra Glide® => Topic started by: Midnight Rider on December 09, 2006, 07:34:43 PM
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I've been working on the bike for the past week after returning from our Florida trip. I ordered a set of Wild 1 Chubby's from Jim (hd-dude) and they had come while we were gone, so the next weekend I started on this project and adding a couple of additional bits of chrome to the bike. These bars are up and back about 1.5" from stock, and are 1 1/4" bars, so they are a little fatter looking. Actually, they are 1 inch bars covered by another 1 1/4" inch tube, so they will fit the riser clamps and all the grips, etc will fit.
Let me tell you, this is NOT a fun job to do!! To get the old bars out and the new ones in, the entire radio system must come out, the lower inner fairing has to come off, and of course all the wires inside the bars have to be pulled out and installed in the Chubbys. Of course the connectors for the switches, grips, etc will not pull through the holes in the bars, so all the wire pins must be removed from the connectors, wires pulled out, pulled into the new bars, then all pins inserted back into their proper places in the connectors. The is not really difficult, but it is necessary to be very careful about being certain that all wires go back to the proper place. I drew a wiring diagram of the pin holes with the color wire that goes into that particular pin hole...you could insert the wires back into the pin holes when the bars are mounted on the bike with the wiring schematics, but it is tight in there, so I opted to do it on the workbench. I also took this opportunity to internally wire the Legend Shock Switch. The Legend Switch is made for 1 inch bars, so some modification with a Dremel tool was necessary to make everything fit properly on the new bars, plus a channel had to be cut into the switch so the wires for it could go back into the hole for the rest of the wiring that is internal on our bikes. This modification of the legend switch turned out well, but took some time to get right. A couple of hours or more...
The hardest part is getting the rear bolts out of the risers, at least on my bike. You MUST have a ball end allen wrench to do this. My inner fairing must have also been mounted as far to the rear as is possible, as I ended up having to loosen the lower inner fairing by removing the Aux spot light/turn signal brackets on both sides to gain a little extra room to get the bolts out. The bottom of the radio opening is sitting right on top of the bolts for the clamps...when the bolts come up, they actuall hit the bottom of the radio opening, so some movement of that area is necessary to get them out.
I really like the look of the new bars, and the riding position is much better for me. I have not given it a true test yet, but I feel certain the riding position will alleviate the shoulder neck pain I got after riding a few hours with the stock bars...I was having to reach too far forward and down to reach things. We'll see...
If I had someone I REALLY trusted, I would have let them do this job, cause it's a beautch...but at least I know it was done right, though it took some time for me to complete.
Here's some pics of parts of the process...
First, outer fairing off, radio unplugged ready to begin pulling...
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Radio out...you can see the old bars and riser clamps in this shot...
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Shot from inner fairing side....the lower inner must be removed to gain access to the rear clamp bolts. Ignition switch has to come off, then a couple of bolts on each side, and the lower inner will come out. It's a tight fit!!! Cover EVERYTHING with cloths so you won't scratch anything!!
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Shot with the lower inner off...you can now see/access the rear bolts on the clamps...the angle of the shot does not show that the bolts are mostly covered by the radio opening.
The new bars (not shown) require a different clamp, available from Custom Chrome for about 20 bucks....the Ultimate in Stealth Chrome, d00d...nobody will ever see it!! It's a nice piece and fits perfectly.
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Old brake lines removed...new lines must be installed, two inches longer than stock. They are available from HD...I ordered from Zanotti's. It is a totally different configuration....the chrome cover on the triple tree must be removed, and a round chrome "hockey puck" is mounted on the bottom of the tree...new lines fitted...one from master cylinder to puck, then two from there to front calipers. I think it is possible to get the chrome cover back on, but a longer bolt is required that will go through the cover and into the puck, as the whole assembly will only attach by the one center bolt...the two rear bolts for the cover will not line up, so I am undecided about putting that piece back on since it is hardly visable anyway.
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Everything back together...just plug some stuff in!!!
While I was at it, I changed the spot bulbs, headlamp bulbs, wired the spots through the switch so that they are on even with high beam headlamp on.
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Here's how the bars look viewing from over the tourpak...higher and wider, plus slightly further back. Wrist position is MUCH improved...no more angle...wrists are straight on the grips now.
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View from the front of the bike...you can see that the mirrors are slightly higher with the new bars. I like!!
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A little closer view of the bars from the riding position...
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Last one...shot from the side to give some idea of the new position relative to the old...notice where the bars are relative to the speakers...a couple of inches higher.
d00d...pick out the goodies...chrome visors on all lamps
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Terry,
Fine job you did on changing out the bars. That job is way more then anything I would ever want to try. [smiley=nervous.gif] Your last post speaks of a side view, but there is no picture attached?
As always the addition of some "Bling" is a good thing. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Terry,
Fine job you did on changing out the bars. That job is way more then anything I would ever want to try. [smiley=nervous.gif] Your last post speaks of a side view, but there is no picture attached?
As always the addition of some "Bling" is a good thing. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
I'm with Gary.
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. . . A few more bits of chrome in the black hole will be added after Xmas, then I'm done for a while...at least until motor work begins [highlight]next fall[/highlight].
LOL! If you'd ride one of these 575-powered bikes tomorrow, you wouldn't be able to wait that llllllooooooooooonnnnnnngggggg to do something! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
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Sorry guys....had a brain fart and didn't attatch the photo....it's there now.
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LOL!
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Sorry guys....had a brain fart and didn't attatch the photo....it's there now.
Ok, I'm looking at the Rineharts what am I not seeing? [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Gary, there's nuttin' to see now, it's fixed. :D
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Gary, there's nuttin' to see now, it's fixed. :D
Ok :P So a before/after shot would have been the only way to tell the difference no wonder I didn't see it. ;D
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Flip back and forth between this photo and the last one in Terry's series above.
See the difference, now???
(http://flhrsei.org/yabb2/Attachments/Rinehartinstallation.jpg)
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Flip back and forth between this photo and the last one in Terry's series above.
See the difference, now???
(http://flhrsei.org/yabb2/Attachments/Rinehartinstallation.jpg)
My eyes must really be bad. I still don't see it. [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Ready to cry "uncle" yet, or what?! [smiley=nixweiss.gif] [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
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Is it the screws near the end caps???? [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Getting warmer . . . . . what about them???
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W/O going down and looking at my bike, shouldn't they be on the inside, and the bottom? I was thinking they had put the mufflers on the wrong side, but they are one piece pipes? [smiley=confused5.gif] Whatever is wrong I can't see them on the "after" shot of Terry's scooter.
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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Bing, bing, bing, bing, bing!!!! We have a winner!
Originally, the left muffler was placed on the right side and vice-versa. There is a left and right part number. They're stamped in the hangars, but the only place they mention this is basically in the parts list, so it's not too difficult to see how they'd end up on the wrong side. There are three screws holding the end caps on. One on the top, one on the bottom, and one on the inside side. The side that faces out is supposed to be the side that does not have a screw.
Terry's a good sport! I sent him a PM after I saw the above photo from his installation last month. I knew he's about as meticulous as I am and I figured he'd wanna know.
The funny thing is, he said he thought he would leave it alone, but it must've been eatin' at him! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
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Brotha you don't miss a thing!!!!! ;D If you should ever want to find another occupation you would be great as the person to go pick up a someone
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Ain't that the truth. Didn't take him long after riding behind Rineharts to upgrade, can you imagine how fast he would be on the phone to Zippers after he felt the "seat of the pants" pull those cams offer. ;D
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
I don't want to get on anybody's bike that's had motor work :P ;) I can't afford to do anything 'till next year, so I'm going to ride the crap out of it next year, then start worrying about the tensioners, then do something about them. I'll probably end up with something like Don did [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] I've got the spares, so can do a little at a time until I get all the stuff gathered, read the books, and see if I want to tackle that job myself or let someone else do it. Or, at least get somebody as a technical advisor. [smiley=nixweiss.gif]
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I don't want to get on anybody's bike that's had motor work :P ;) ....
Awww, come on, what do you think friends are for. :o ::) ;D Every time I've upgraded to something w/more power was because of riding on somebody else's scooter. Rode friends Fatboy that had motor work done, then had to have motor work done on my Fatboy. Same friend sold his Fatboy, and got a SERK2. Rode that and had to get me a bike w/a 103ci motor. Finally got the best of him when I did the cam upgrade. He hadn't done anything to his except pipes/AC/PC. It felt so good every time I punched a gear it would leap more, and more in front of him.
Oh what a feeling. [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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I don't want to get on anybody's bike that's had motor work
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Yeah, and I don't wanna ride your SE V-Rod. ::) ;D
Yeah, when I get a need for speed, I've got two that you better hold on tight when you twist the wick. Can't wait until you get a chance to feel what that V will do...you can ride the Duc too, just for grins. You will appreciate both the bikes...the V is like a hot rod and the Duc is like a Ferarri (not that I've ever been in one). Imagine 92HP/72TQ in 430lbs of bike.
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Yeah, Brian PM'd me about the screws...thought I could live with it 'till I got a tire change or something....but noooooooooooooo...had the bags off, on the jack, and I was dirty anyway, so changed them out the other night. Everytime I looked at them, all I could see was that damn screw!! ;D ;D Diva caught me changing them out, and had a big laugh at my OCDAR...
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Really nice job on the bars. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] But I have to agree with others, that's way out of my league to do. I'd have to farm that one out and pay dearly for it. But great job and pics.
Red
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Really nice job on the bars.
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Terry, I'm a little blotto right now and even bleary eyed that looks sweet. Your back and that area in between your shoulders will LOVE those bars; and they look better too. You're right, it is a bitch of a job though. Mine happened a long time ago now but I'm pretty sure I remember starting right after lunch one Saturday or Sunday and didn't get done unil like 9:00 or 10:00 that night. It was a good all day job. So doing it a bit of a time during evenings you did ok. And you got your shock switch the way you want it too [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] .
Now I know I'll never put on the Legends shocks cause I won't want the wires exposed while Terry's are hidden and I KNOW I won't screw with running them inside ;D .
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lookin good Terry, Glad it all cam together for you [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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lookin good Terry, Glad it all [highlight]cam[/highlight] together for you [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
See, look Terry. Even Dude is telling you to start the motor work now ;D !
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See, look Terry.
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Terry, I'm a little blotto right now and even bleary eyed that looks sweet.
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See, look Terry.
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Terry;
In all honesty changing out the cams and such is a lot less tedious than the bar swap...... You can do it [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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Terry;
In all honesty changing out the cams and such is a lot less tedious than the bar swap...... You can do it [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Yeah, and you can do it before NEXT FALL! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
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Terry;
In all honesty changing out the cams and such is a lot less tedious than the bar swap...... You can do it [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Yeah, and you can do it before NEXT FALL! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
With the money you will save by doing it yourself. How's that for friends???? ;D
Oh I wish I lived in Birmingham. I would ask you to come ride my bike for me this winter when I couldn't just to keep oil on the top of the engine....
/me thinks that would expedite this upgrade. [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
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The Legend Switch...as you know from my earlier posts on the shocks, replaces the clutch clamp, but is about 1/2" wider...not a problem on the stock bars.
ooooooooh, I understand exactly what you're describing. Never considered from all the prior descriptions that the clamp housing itself would be wider. Always just thought about the switches coming through it without considering how big "it" is. Fatter handlebars would certainly be an issue there. Already having those bars I'd have to contend with the same thing. Bummer....
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Terry,
Great job on the bars! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] I'm amazed by the projects you tackle on your own. If I'd had my bike in that many pieces, it would have never gone back together!! [smiley=nervous.gif]
Bob
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Terry,
Great job on the bars!
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Terry;
In all honesty changing out the cams and such is a lot less tedious than the bar swap...... You can do it [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Jim...I will probably figure a way to do it myself...if I have a book, the right tools, and a little moral/technical support from people like you and others here, I'll get her done. I've helped build a couple of 600HP small blocks back in the day...E-Gas class...Anglia...it would FLY!!
Thanks for the discount on the bars and the support when I called! [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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With the money you will save by doing it yourself. How's that for friends???? ;D
Oh I wish I lived in Birmingham. I would ask you to come ride my bike for me this winter when I couldn't just to keep oil on the top of the engine....
/me thinks that would expedite this upgrade. [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
You and Brian are really bad influences...but you know that, don't you? I can't wait for Brian to come down...he's going to get SEVROD fever BAD!!! [smiley=pepper.gif] [smiley=pepper.gif]
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Terry,
Looks good! I can relate to the difficulty of the install. I installed my own as well. I was just out riding today and these bars are extremely comfortable. You'll wonder how you ever rode without them. [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
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Just a quick ride report from today with the new bars...I like 'em!! The bike feels better with the extra width of the bars, and my position is much, much better. The extra leverage seems to make the bike a lot more responsive...I took it out our local version of the Dragon and had a good time. It was too cold for Diva...it's really the first time I've ridden any distance with just me on the scoot since getting the RH's and the PC tune...she feels good and strong!!
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You and Brian are really bad influences...but you know that, don't you?
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Guys, Terry never ceases to amaze me at his ability to take the bike apart and put it back together! [smiley=nervous.gif] I did get a chuckle when I caught him changing the Rineharts. ;D OCD at its finest. [smiley=huepfenjump3.gif]
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Guys, Terry never ceases to amaze me at his ability to take the bike apart and put it back together!
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I can just imagine the look he gave you when he knew he was caught. The cat that ate the canary comes to mind. [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
[smiley=pumpkin.gif]
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
[smiley=fireman.gif]
Naah, he just chuckled. ;D
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Naah, he just chuckled.
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Terry, my friend, you are fortunate that your dad gave you that car so you could learn and build your skills. Like you I am self taught and never met a job I was afraid to tackle. But I just do not have the patience any more to do big jobs like changing out the handlebars. My hat is off to you. Here, have a cold one on me! [smiley=drink.gif]
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Terry,
Finally got a chance to read this thread start to finish. Really nice job. I like the extra detail you put in to getting everything to fit. The end result is really sweet, looks great.
The story with getting your first car at 15 and having to fix it yourself was the same with me. I had a 65' Chevelle Super Sport with a straight 6 and tons of rust. Little did I know at the time it was one of only about 1500 made with the SS packsge and a 6. Of course I had to have a V-8. First a 283, then a 350, the a 327 Vette motor and various transmissions. Lots of fun, kept me out of trouble in High School. I think the key chain and the Vette valve covers, 7 fin cast from a 57' fuelie 283, are all that's left of that project.
Hats off to you Bro nice work!
Ed [smiley=pepper.gif]
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Terry,
Finally got a chance to read this thread start to finish. Really nice job. I like the extra detail you put in to getting everything to fit. The end result is really sweet, looks great.
The story with getting your first car at 15 and having to fix it yourself was the same with me. I had a 65' Chevelle Super Sport with a straight 6 and tons of rust. Little did I know at the time it was one of only about 1500 made with the SS packsge and a 6. Of course I had to have a V-8. First a 283, then a 350, the a 327 Vette motor and various transmissions. Lots of fun, kept me out of trouble in High School. I think the key chain and the Vette valve covers, 7 fin cast from a 57' fuelie 283, are all that's left of that project.
Hats off to you Bro nice work!
Ed [smiley=pepper.gif]
Thanks Ed! Nice to hear your story as well...in fact, in 71 I had a 57 chevy two door HT, and had the FI from a vette of that era to put on, but that project never got done due to having too much fun for a couple of years...priorities shifted about 180 degrees for a while. Had a '57 Ford Fairlane 500 2drHT for a few years in the latter teen years...had a 292 in it.
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Am just wrapping up installing a set on the 06 SEUC and forgot about lengthening the brake line. Guess it out to the shop for a longer brake line. Have them on the 04 and they are great really like the position.
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Terry, you did a superb job - nice work. This is without a doubt my next project. I have been debating whether to farm it out or dig into it myself. I have gotten myself into big jobs before, with good results. (last month I put a radiator in a Plymouth minivan, what a PITA). The brake line was the only change needed? The throttle cables and clutch line are long enough? If I decide to tackle this one, your excellent photos will help. After about an hour on the bike I start getting that back/shoulder pain you describe. My '90 Electraglide had more pullback and the seat was slightly closer to the steering neck and I did not have this discomfort issue. I am going to plan this for March '07, whether I do it myself or not, its gotta be done.
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Terry, you did a superb job - nice work. This is without a doubt my next project. I have been debating whether to farm it out or dig into it myself. I have gotten myself into big jobs before, with good results. (last month I put a radiator in a Plymouth minivan, what a PITA). The brake line was the only change needed? The throttle cables and clutch line are long enough? If I decide to tackle this one, your excellent photos will help. After about an hour on the bike I start getting that back/shoulder pain you describe. My '90 Electraglide had more pullback and the seat was slightly closer to the steering neck and I did not have this discomfort issue. I am going to plan this for March '07, whether I do it myself or not, its gotta be done.
Tony...On my bikel, no other cables were needed...the throttle cables are JUST long enough, and the clutch was not an issue at all. It's more of a tedious job than a hard one, so if you just allow yourself plenty of time it will save you at least 6 hours of labor, plus you will be sure it is done correctly with all the wires, etc. The bars really look good on the bike...the fatter bars really add to that area of the scooter, and you will not be disappointed in the improved riding position, and also the added leverage it gives you on the big bike in turns. Get the bars from hd-dude to get the discount, and the brake lines are available through one of the 20% dealers. Let me know if I can be of any assistance.
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Well got it done this morning and took it for a ride and they feel great. Here are the part #'s for the pieces used to build the front brake line.
1) 03-6051 10mm straight banjo
1) 03-6121 24" hose
1) 03-6047 90degree brake line (joins upper hose to tee)
1) 49-8411 3/8 Tee (biker choice part)
2) 03-6116 18" hose
2) 10mm 90degree banjo
all part numbers are goodridge except the tee.
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Sweeeeet, Magoo....Glad you like them, but then you already knew you would... ;)
For the brake lines, I just ordered the HD 2" extended "kit"...basically a longer line from the master to the "tee", which on the HD kit is a round chrome disc, and two lines for the brakes. There was a Goodrich tag on the lines...maybe the same thing? At any rate, it was a decent price, and it all fit, so I'm not complaining.
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Yes they are sweet with the seat position they are a little different than the SEEG which has a much lower seat. just posted the part# for the brake line for anyone that might want to do it them selves, I went to the shop twice before i got it right.
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Has anybody done this to the 07 CUSE2? If so, same parts requirements and install procedure?
Thanks,
Mark
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Has anybody done this to the 07 CUSE2?
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Nice !
Two fingers in the nose ! if it's same..... [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif] [smiley=xyxthumbs.gif]
Jacques
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I really like the look of the new bars, and the riding position is much better for me. I have not given it a true test yet, but I feel certain the riding position will alleviate the shoulder neck pain I got after riding a few hours with the stock bars...I was having to reach too far forward and down to reach things. We'll see...
I get that pain too on the right side mostly............. I'm thinking this is a definite maybe here......... are you coming to Bike Week so that I could possibly see these first hand?? :)
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I get that pain too on the right side mostly............. I'm thinking this is a definite maybe here......... are you coming to Bike Week so that I could possibly see these first hand?? :)
rob...nope, not coming to Daytona. It is impossible for me to get away from work this time of year. I'll be happy to provide any information to you that will help though. There is a chance I might be in Myrtle Beach in May, but not sure at this point. Might just go to the Redneck Riviera....Gulf Shores/Destin/Panama City.
I can say without doubt that I REALLY like the 575 bars. Not only do they look better on the bike, but the riding position, along with the Corbin seat, has made a huge difference for me.
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I get that pain too on the right side mostly............. I'm thinking this is a definite maybe here......... are you coming to Bike Week so that I could possibly see these first hand?? :)
I'll be there. Have them on Bessie. My body feels 100% better with them than when I had Harley's pull back bars on.
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With the 575 on the bike it is just more natural position for riding.
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How tall are each of you who put on these bars?
I'm 6' 3" and REALLY miss my Heritage bars I put on my old Road King. My hands are lower and my wrists are "cocked in" about 25 to 34 degrees when gripping the ultra's handlebars.
Mark
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How tall are each of you who put on these bars?
I'm 6' 3" and REALLY miss my Heritage bars I put on my old Road King. My hands are lower and my wrists are "cocked in" about 25 to 34 degrees when gripping the ultra's handlebars.
Mark
Mark, I am 6'2" and my hand position used to be about as you describe, further complicated by going with a solo seat which pushed me back an inch or so. The 575 bars cured all of that, they are great, extremely comfortable and fairly simple to install, just take your time.
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How tall are each of you who put on these bars?
I'm 6' 3" and REALLY miss my Heritage bars I put on my old Road King. My hands are lower and my wrists are "cocked in" about 25 to 34 degrees when gripping the ultra's handlebars.
Mark
Mark...I'm 5'8". The hand/wrist position was worth installing them to me, not to mention the arms.
It's really not a hard job, just a bit aggravating at times. Just allow yourself plenty of time...like the better part of a whole day.
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Mark...I'm 5'8". The hand/wrist position was worth installing them to me, not to mention the arms.
It's really not a hard job, just a bit aggravating at times. Just allow yourself plenty of time...like the better part of a whole day.
Terry (and all),
Need some info and advice.
Stopped by the dealer Sat and placed my "goodies" on order for the B&O (yeah I'm getting a bit more optimistic now), including the Wild 1 Chubby Bars (WO 575). Parts guy just called me and said he had been in touch with Wild 1 and they said these bars won't work on a CUSE because of the hydraulic clutch :nixweiss: :nixweiss:? Whatupwitdat?? First I asked if there was any difference between the '06 and '07. He checked the book and said no. So I told him that several folks had installed these bars on their bikes without any issue. He said the issue is an indentation (or flat spot) on the near the left grip for the clutch master cylinder. Wild one said it's like the one they put on the right side for the brake master cylinder. I told him I'd check with all the smart guys on here and see what the collective brain trust says.
So Terry, my first thought is you probably put your bright, shiny Chubby bars in a vice and flattened where you needed to ;). Then said naw, TC wouldn't do ANYTHING like that.
This has me puzzled. I seem to recall that others with '07s have done or had this install done.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Tony
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Terry (and all),
Need some info and advice.
Stopped by the dealer Sat and placed my "goodies" on order for the B&O (yeah I'm getting a bit more optimistic now), including the Wild 1 Chubby Bars (WO 575). Parts guy just called me and said he had been in touch with Wild 1 and they said these bars won't work on a CUSE because of the hydraulic clutch :nixweiss: :nixweiss:? Whatupwitdat?? First I asked if there was any difference between the '06 and '07. He checked the book and said no. So I told him that several folks had installed these bars on their bikes without any issue. He said the issue is an indentation (or flat spot) on the near the left grip for the clutch master cylinder. Wild one said it's like the one they put on the right side for the brake master cylinder. I told him I'd check with all the smart guys on here and see what the collective brain trust says.
So Terry, my first thought is you probably put your bright, shiny Chubby bars in a vice and flattened where you needed to ;). Then said naw, TC wouldn't do ANYTHING like that.
This has me puzzled. I seem to recall that others with '07s have done or had this install done.
Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Tony
Tony...they're all full of chit...the indentation is no longer necessary on the new bars. It is a tapered end now. The clutch master cyclinder will go right on without any issue whatsoever, as will the brake. The only parts necessary to change the bars are the riser clamp and the 2" extended brake lines.
All wires, cables, etc will work as is. I got my bars from Jim (hd-dude) and they are the new style without the indention. I ordered the clamp from a local Indy shop, and the brake lines right out of the P&A catalog from Zanotti's.
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Thanks, Terry. That's what I thought. I'm going to give Wild 1 a call myself. So I'm clear on the explanation to my dealer, the 575s are "tapered", therefore eliminating the need for the indentation for the master cylinders on either side. Correct?
Thanks tons,
Tony
-
A quote straight off the Chubby website:
CHUBBY® BARS ARE NOW MADE TO WORK WITH HYDRAULIC CLUTCH CONTROLS AND NEARLY ALL CUSTOM CONTROLS WITHOUT
MODIFICATION, CONTROLS CAN BE ROTATED AND POSITIONED ON BOTH SIDES FOR OPTIMUM COMFORT AND CONTROL.
Select models have not yet made the transition, so if you do have
a hydraulic clutch please specify when ordering.
The 575's have made the transition.
-
A quote straight off the Chubby website:
CHUBBY® BARS ARE NOW MADE TO WORK WITH HYDRAULIC CLUTCH CONTROLS AND NEARLY ALL CUSTOM CONTROLS WITHOUT
MODIFICATION, CONTROLS CAN BE ROTATED AND POSITIONED ON BOTH SIDES FOR OPTIMUM COMFORT AND CONTROL.
Select models have not yet made the transition, so if you do have
a hydraulic clutch please specify when ordering.
The 575's have made the transition.
Thanks again, Terry. Sounds like the dealer was speaking with a "nimrod". I'll set them straight. This is what's so great about this forum. You guys know your chit.
Tony
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Thanks, Terry. That's what I thought. I'm going to give Wild 1 a call myself. So I'm clear on the explanation to my dealer, the 575s are "tapered", therefore eliminating the need for the indentation for the master cylinders on either side. Correct?
Thanks tons,
Tony
After talking to them you may want to check w/Jim (hd-dude) before you order. He does sell them and can't say for sure, but there may be a savings if you order from him vs Wild 1.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
-
Thanks, Terry. That's what I thought. I'm going to give Wild 1 a call myself. So I'm clear on the explanation to my dealer, the 575s are "tapered", therefore eliminating the need for the indentation for the master cylinders on either side. Correct?
Thanks tons,
Tony
That is correct, sir...
-
Thanks again, Terry. Sounds like the dealer was speaking with a "nimrod". I'll set them straight. This is what's so great about this forum. You guys know your chit.
Tony
Any chance the dealer has stock of their own they were hoping to use up of something else? Or just don't want to go to the hassle of changing the bars? It is a pretty straightforward bit of information for them not to have gotten a handle on it after all.
Even the prior version of the 575 bars (with the indent rather than the taper) worked fine. You didn't have quite the range of motion for adjustment but the range you did have was where you needed it to be. The bars not only look good they really are a benefit to riding comfort too. So it's worth pursuing.
-
After talking to them you may want to check w/Jim (hd-dude) before you order. He does sell them and can't say for sure, but there may be a savings if you order from him vs Wild 1.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Jim does sell them to us at a discount...Jim sent me mine. But, d00d, I think because Tony is having the dealer do it, they may have issues with him bringing his own parts in... :nixweiss:
Tony...if not, just get 'em from Jim. The clamp is a CCI product, readily available through almost any shop, and a very nice piece and only 20 bucks or so.
-
Any chance the dealer has stock of their own they were hoping to use up of something else? Or just don't want to go to the hassle of changing the bars? It is a pretty straightforward bit of information for them not to have gotten a handle on it after all.
Even the prior version of the 575 bars (with the indent rather than the taper) worked fine. You didn't have quite the range of motion for adjustment but the range you did have was where you needed it to be. The bars not only look good they really are a benefit to riding comfort too. So it's worth pursuing.
Therein may lay the stinking fish, Don....
-
Jim does sell them to us at a discount...Jim sent me mine. But, d00d, I think because Tony is having the dealer do it, they may have issues with him bringing his own parts in... :nixweiss:
Tony...if not, just get 'em from Jim. The clamp is a CCI product, readily available through almost any shop, and a very nice piece and only 20 bucks or so.
Ahh, understood.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
-
Yep, I am a dealer for Wild 1 and I have them in stock, Will save you a few bucks too!
As far as the taper goes the older style 575's had to be special ordered with the flat spot on both sides for the hydro clutch. the standard units did not have the flat on both sides. Now with the new style units they all have the tapered down ends to oclear the master cylinders. As Don said the big benefit in the newer tapered style is the range of adjustment for the controls. It is very likely that your dealer has an old pair on the shelf or just does not know what they're talking about.
-
Yep, I am a dealer for Wild 1 and I have them in stock, Will save you a few bucks too!
As far as the taper goes the older style 575's had to be special ordered with the flat spot on both sides for the hydro clutch. the standard units did not have the flat on both sides. Now with the new style units they all have the tapered down ends to oclear the master cylinders. As Don said the big benefit in the newer tapered style is the range of adjustment for the controls. It is very likely that your dealer has an old pair on the shelf or just does not know what they're talking about.
Thanks to everyone. Got to the bottom of this (I believe) with Terry's help. Spoke with the parts guy again. He'd called Drag Specialities (who they normally deal with) and apparently spoke with one of their newer employees. He has it all straight now. I suggested that I could purchase the bars and have them install, but they will only install what they sell :(. Not a problem, since they will give me a 20% break on the parts and labor. I'm okay with that. Would much prefer to keep my business with the "knowledge collective", but for the stuff I'm getting at delivery, pretty much have to go with the dealer's rules, but I'll be back for more "stuff". I'm getting that OCD urge ;D.
Again, you guys are the best and thanks for all the help,
Tony
-
Just ordered Wild One bars from HD-Dude.
Is the Custom Chrome handlebar clamp part number 26145? Does anyone have the PN for the upper brake line cable?
Thanks,
Mark
(I wish HD-Dude's shop was in Houston!!!)
-
Hey Mark,
The reference is #45252-04 for the brake line.
Jacques
-
Just ordered Wild One bars from HD-Dude.
Is the Custom Chrome handlebar clamp part number 26145? Does anyone have the PN for the upper brake line cable?
Thanks,
Mark
(I wish HD-Dude's shop was in Houston!!!)
That is correct on the clamp, and also the line part number given by Jacques. I got my clamp through a local Indy shop. It's really a nice piece...HD would charge 50 bucks for it if they had it.
-
2 questions:
Received W1 chubby's yesterday - great shipping service HD-Dude! I think these will be much better than stock though I wish they had a few more degree rotation out as my wrists will still not be perpendicular to the grips. I'm sure there is no way to bend them out a little before mounting.....? They sure look pretty....
How do you remove the left grip so that it is easy to reinstall -- I remember when I removed my stock grips from my RK the left one left was pretty tore up since it is glued to the bar....
Thanks,
Mark
-
2 questions:
Received W1 chubby's yesterday - great shipping service HD-Dude! I think these will be much better than stock though I wish they had a few more degree rotation out as my wrists will still not be perpendicular to the grips. I'm sure there is no way to bend them out a little before mounting.....? They sure look pretty....
How do you remove the left grip so that it is easy to reinstall -- I remember when I removed my stock grips from my RK the left one left was pretty tore up since it is glued to the bar....
Thanks,
Mark
Thought the left grips weren't glued down anymore?
-
It is a CVO bike after all..... was hoping it was attached via some CHROME set screws ;D
-
2 questions:
Received W1 chubby's yesterday - great shipping service HD-Dude! I think these will be much better than stock though I wish they had a few more degree rotation out as my wrists will still not be perpendicular to the grips. I'm sure there is no way to bend them out a little before mounting.....? They sure look pretty....
How do you remove the left grip so that it is easy to reinstall -- I remember when I removed my stock grips from my RK the left one left was pretty tore up since it is glued to the bar....
Thanks,
Mark
Mark;
The grips should not be glued on, the newer styles are held in place by the switch housings.
-
Getting ready to start: reading the manuals and making a checklist before I have my scoot scattered all over my garage...
reviewing fairing cap removal - ignition switch knob......
The manual (8-61 in 2007 touring models) says to turn front forks to left fork stop, turn to fork lock position, push in knob release button with small flathead screwdriver (underneath knob) then rotate 60 deg. to remove knob.
The next step says to use pn HD-45962 Ignition Switch Alignment Tool to "rotate clockwise to the selected position". Am I correct to assume the forks are NOT locked as I didn't push down the switch knob and can recenter my forks without this tool or I will need the tool to unlock the fork so I can recenter?
Thanks in advance,
Mark
-
Getting ready to start: reading the manuals and making a checklist before I have my scoot scattered all over my garage...
reviewing fairing cap removal - ignition switch knob......
The manual (8-61 in 2007 touring models) says to turn front forks to left fork stop, turn to fork lock position, push in knob release button with small flathead screwdriver (underneath knob) then rotate 60 deg. to remove knob.
The next step says to use pn HD-45962 Ignition Switch Alignment Tool to "rotate clockwise to the selected position". Am I correct to assume the forks are NOT locked as I didn't push down the switch knob and can recenter my forks without this tool or I will need the tool to unlock the fork so I can recenter?
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Mark...on mine, once I got the switch out, the forks would move back to center....BUT, if you accidently move them back to full left, they will lock. Then you have to put the switch back in to unlock them again if you don't have the tool they mention. Just don't turn them all the way to the left and you'll be fine. When you pull the lower inner, just turn the forks to the right to gain more clearance to wiggle the piece out. Put a cloth between the front of your tank and the lower inner...
-
Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap? Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches. Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.
BTW the bars look and feel great....
Mark
-
Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap? Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches. Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.
BTW the bars look and feel great....
Mark
Two things come to mind:
The top clamp may be hitting on the switch brackets inside the fairing cap. The HD single straps are notched for clearance.
The rubbers can be trimmed to allow the some extra clearance.
-
Did anybody have any fitment "challenges' with the fairing cap? Seems the new clamp that holds the bars on pushes the cap out about so the edge is parallel to the fairing part above it -- result is that plastic plate with the ignition positions (Lock, off, etc) is off about .25 inches. Also the rubber insulation at the ends dont fit.
BTW the bars look and feel great....
Mark
Mark...the rubber things can be trimmed to fit with an exacto knife or Utility knife...I then stuck mine back on to stay with some black silicone. The plastic switch position indicator...you got a Dremel tool or rat tail file? Just clearance it to fit back into the indexing slot and everything will look fine when you get it all back together.
-
Completed! :orange:
What a chore -- I'm not a wrench but got this done....
Took me about 16 hours total but would have never got this done without the support and encouragement and SYMPATHY of the great folks on this forum.
I was even able to get that darned chrome cover that guards the brakeline puck in place. It seems that my last problem was caused by the new handlebar clamp (chrome but hidden) hitting the switches in the faring cap. I followed the advice here and dremel'd off a little off the switch mounting brackets and the ignition switch position plate and fit it all together.
What ever you charge to do this project HD-Dude, it is well worth the money. During the installation, I had many thoughts of flying HD-Dude, 2Lane, or TC to Houston to help me!
I hope I never met the engineer who designed the radio mounting - I'm sure it was outsourced to some dummy in India who never has seen a MC.
:soapbox:
Anyway new bars are really comfortable and provided some good space for my Garmin 2610 and Escort 9500I.
At the same time, I installed some new Motolights that mount to my brake calipers since I had the fairing cover off and also cleaned up/tied up the rats nest of wiring.
I know:
:worthless:
Pics on the way.
Many thanks again,
Mark
-
Congrats on getting her buttoned up. That's a chore of a job for sure. Don't remember anyone who hasn't felt a lot of improvement going to those bars. Good job and congrats again on getting it knocked out :2vrolijk_21: .
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Mark....yep, buddy, it's a bitch of a job, no matter how you look at it. But the end result is well worth the effort involved, and this will be something you will enjoy mile after mile. We want pics!!!!
Did you go get a longer screw to put the lower cover back on?
-
TC,
Didnt need the longer screw -- for the cover that is! A little dremelling did the trick.
Mark
-
Congrads on ther install, it can be intimidating but once it done you wonder why you waited so long.
-
Old brake lines removed...new lines must be installed, two inches longer than stock. They are available from HD...I ordered from Zanotti's. It is a totally different configuration....the chrome cover on the triple tree must be removed, and a round chrome "hockey puck" is mounted on the bottom of the tree...new lines fitted...one from master cylinder to puck, then two from there to front calipers. I think it is possible to get the chrome cover back on, but a longer bolt is required that will go through the cover and into the puck, as the whole assembly will only attach by the one center bolt...the two rear bolts for the cover will not line up, so I am undecided about putting that piece back on since it is hardly visable anyway.
Would it be possible just to lengthen the old line, rather than replace? That is, if it's a standard threaded union into the junction on the triple tree, it should be easy, no?
Jim
-
Would it be possible just to lengthen the old line, rather than replace? That is, if it's a standard threaded union into the junction on the triple tree, it should be easy, no?
Jim
The brake lines are a one piece unit so the can't be disassembled, that would be much easier if they were threaded lines like the aftermarket parts though 8)
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The brake lines are a one piece unit so the can't be disassembled, that would be much easier if they were threaded lines like the aftermarket parts though 8)
Shame! But I guess it would be easy to cut and flare the solid part to put a 2" extension in, if there's room to hide it. That would be WAY cheaper, and would hopefully allow the chrome cover to go back on properly....
Wonder if I still can find my old brake pipe tool.... ;)
Jim
-
That is correct on the clamp, and also the line part number given by Jacques. I got my clamp through a local Indy shop. It's really a nice piece...HD would charge 50 bucks for it if they had it.
Looks like <shock, horror!> the HD part for the replacement clamp is cheaper than the Custom Chrome one! HD Part is 56170-83TA, $12.76 from Zanotti.
Jim
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Looks like <shock, horror!> the HD part for the replacement clamp is cheaper than the Custom Chrome one! HD Part is 56170-83TA, $12.76 from Zanotti.
Jim
I was not sure why the clamp is required - why not just use the stock setup? So I spoke to Robert at Wild One and he said the one-piece clamp just makes for a more solid install, esp for those who may tie down their bike using the handlebars. But he said there can be a fitment problem with the above clamp and the radio. He suggested using this new H-D clamp p/n 55917-08, $20.95 list. Said it is solid steel vs cast as is the above and it is thinner and will not cause fitment problem with the radio. So got one on order for my install.
-
I was not sure why the clamp is required - why not just use the stock setup? So I spoke to Robert at Wild One and he said the one-piece clamp just makes for a more solid install, esp for those who may tie down their bike using the handlebars. But he said there can be a fitment problem with the above clamp and the radio. He suggested using this new H-D clamp p/n 55917-08, $20.95 list. Said it is solid steel vs cast as is the above and it is thinner and will not cause fitment problem with the radio. So got one on order for my install.
Yes, I have to say I was puzzled as to why the clamp was required! I can't see that it would make it any more rigid using the one piece. I was just taking the word of those who installed already that the one-pice was essential. 55917-08 is $16.32 from Zanotti, so still cheaper than the Custard Chrome one.
Jim
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Yes, I have to say I was puzzled as to why the clamp was required! I can't see that it would make it any more rigid using the one piece. I was just taking the word of those who installed already that the one-pice was essential. 55917-08 is $16.32 from Zanotti, so still cheaper than the Custard Chrome one.
Jim
For sure. No one is going to see it anyway!
-
picture it like this
standrad 2 piece clamp
====||===||====
if you strap to the bars the pressure goes through the clamps and could cause this
====||=^=||====
but if you have a one piece clamp
____
====||===||====
it strengthens the middle of the bars
not really to scale
-
this might make more senses
BLACK = bars
RED = clamps
GREEN = straps
-
this might make more senses
BLACK = bars
RED = clamps
GREEN = straps
I see what you mean there, but if it doesn't happen to the standard bars, why would it happen to these?
Jim
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Besides it being inherently stronger (more clamping surface), I think it might have to do with how the clamp fits into the area where the Wild 1's are 1" in diameter. The stock clamps angle across the bar, and I think the angle would cause the stock clamp to catch the edge of the 1 1/4" part of the bar in that location. It was last year when I did it, so can't remember for sure. I just took hd-dudes advice and got the clamp...
-
Besides it being inherently stronger (more clamping surface), I think it might have to do with how the clamp fits into the area where the Wild 1's are 1" in diameter. The stock clamps angle across the bar, and I think the angle would cause the stock clamp to catch the edge of the 1 1/4" part of the bar in that location. It was last year when I did it, so can't remember for sure. I just took hd-dudes advice and got the clamp...
May well be the interference factor that requires the different clamp, but the inherently stronger (though it is) has to be a red herring; the force required to cause any deflection of the area of the bars between the two clamps would be vast. That's a non-starter, I think.
But for under $20, it's worth the one-piece clamp! :)
Jim
-
W1's is very clear that the 1 piece is required. ;)
Hoist! 8)
-
The 08 part # is what's on the ultras according to the parts book, and shows it as one piece.
-
The 08 part # is what's on the ultras according to the parts book, and shows it as one piece.
Sounds like the best choice then - should be no clearance issues. :)
Jim
-
Still on this subject, as I've got a set of WO575 on ebay :orange: I'm looking at the brake line.
Has anyone actually tried the install with the standard CUSE line? Are we sure it's too short? Reason I ask is a few years back, I had the MoCo's "Touring Pullback Handlebars" on my CUI, and the P&Q book says for them that they bring the controls 2" closer to the rider (I hated them, so I hope the WO575 are not like them at all!), and says to use Brake Line Kit 45212-97B. That's what I had, it was long enough. It's actually a FLHR/FLHRC/FLTR part, and here's the important part - it is no longer than the OEM part 43350-96B. BUT - it doesn't give lengths! So, is it 2" longer than the OEM FLHT 43349-96A, or the same length (I always thought that had 17" lower lines, whereas FLHR/FLHRC/FLTR had 16" lower lines!). If it IS 2" longer, does that mean that the part recommended in this thread - 45252-04 - which is 2" longer than the FLHR/FLHRC/FLTR part, is actually 4" longer than the FLHT part, and I need a 4" longer top line than stock?
:nixweiss: :nixweiss: :nixweiss:
I'm wondering, therefore:
- Is the stock CUSE line really actually long enough
- If not, can I use 45212-97B as HD say you can for their pullback bars....
Jim
-
Jim,
I did a trial fit of these bars and found the brake line to be about 1" short. There is no way it can be used as is. I did a trial fit to see if I would like the bars and the position they put me in before I pull the control wires and grips. The bars are great and I can’t wait to install them for good but because I am having many problems with the heated grips I put my stock bars back on until all the problems with the heated grips are resolved. I don't want HD saying because I changed the bars that the problem was caused by me. After everything is corrected when I do the final install I’m going to have a local hydraulics shop cut the top line about midpoint and crimp on fittings then join them back together with a coupling. That should give me the extra length required without needing to purchase the 45252-04 kit at $137.95 ($110.36 out of Chicago HD). As far as the one piece top clamp there has been several bikes with the wiring through the handle bars brought back to the dealers with broken bars. A friend with a Dyna Wide Glide just had a recall on his because of this. The one piece clamp is the only way to go.
Pat
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Jim,
I did a trial fit of these bars and found the brake line to be about 1" short. There is no way it can be used as is. I did a trial fit to see if I would like the bars and the position they put me in before I pull the control wires and grips. The bars are great and I can’t wait to install them for good but because I am having many problems with the heated grips I put my stock bars back on until all the problems with the heated grips are resolved. I don't want HD saying because I changed the bars that the problem was caused by me. After everything is corrected when I do the final install I’m going to have a local hydraulics shop cut the top line about midpoint and crimp on fittings then join them back together with a coupling. That should give me the extra length required without needing to purchase the 45252-04 kit at $137.95 ($110.36 out of Chicago HD). As far as the one piece top clamp there has been several bikes with the wiring through the handle bars brought back to the dealers with broken bars. A friend with a Dyna Wide Glide just had a recall on his because of this. The one piece clamp is the only way to go.
Pat
Thanks Pat, much appreciated. Yes, I can understand the one piece clamp now, and have decided on that.
Good to know that the standard line is definitely too short, so that leaves me wondering if I can use Brake Line Kit 45212-97B, which was plenty long on my earlier bike with the HD Touring Pullback bars.
Jim
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Completed! :orange:
I know:
:worthless:
Pics on the way.
Many thanks again,
Mark
Did I miss the pics???? ;)
-
I'm in the middle of this as we speak, and I'm REALLY struggling to get enough length on the clutch line.... :nervous:
Am I missing something here? I can't find any slack in it over the whole length. Anyone else had this problem?:nixweiss:
Jim
-
I'm in the middle of this as we speak, and I'm REALLY struggling to get enough length on the clutch line.... :nervous:
Am I missing something here? I can't find any slack in it over the whole length. Anyone else had this problem?:nixweiss:
Jim
Jim, I definitely had no problem with clutch line length. Don't remember anyone else having an issue either.
Personally I didn't have to release any clamps holding the line in place nor do anything else. :nixweiss:
-
Jim, I definitely had no problem with clutch line length. Don't remember anyone else having an issue either.
Personally I didn't have to release any clamps holding the line in place nor do anything else. :nixweiss:
Thanks Don.
Well, I've cut all the ties holding it inside the fairing, and pulled pretty firmly on it, and it's about an inch short. How far through the inner fairing does the black covering on the line come on yours?
Jim
-
Jim, I definitely had no problem with clutch line length. Don't remember anyone else having an issue either.
Personally I didn't have to release any clamps holding the line in place nor do anything else. :nixweiss:
I don't know how tall the 575's are, but maybe it's an '07 thing. When I used the 10" WO's, I was able to retain the stock line, but did have to release/remove clamps. I had to change it completely with the 12.5's. Did they shorten the line on the '07's?
Hoist! 8)
-
Thanks Don.
Well, I've cut all the ties holding it inside the fairing, and pulled pretty firmly on it, and it's about an inch short. How far through the inner fairing does the black covering on the line come on yours?
Jim
This might be a time when a picture tells the story better:
-
This might be a time when a picture tells the story better:
Mine is through further than that, and still won't come close....
Sudden horror strikes me - I hope these ARE 575s! :nervous:
Jim
-
I don't know how tall the 575's are, but maybe it's an '07 thing. When I used the 10" WO's, I was able to retain the stock line, but did have to release/remove clamps. I had to change it completely with the 12.5's. Did they shorten the line on the '07's?
Hoist! 8)
I sure hope not! My friend here with the same bike has me has lots of slack on his clutch line where it runs down the frame, and I wondered why I didn't have that, but I can't believe my clutch line is shorter than everyone else's. :nervous:
Anybody got an 07 parts book to hand?
Jim
-
Mine is through further than that, and still won't come close....
Sudden horror strikes me - I hope these ARE 575s! :nervous:
Jim
I don't know that I'd trust the trained monkeys at whatever dimly lit foreign assembly plant is assembling the lines to get the insulating wrap in precisely the same place everytime. Having considered that, and assuming there is no picking sticker or other identifier on your bars themselves, do they look like this?
-
I sure hope not! My friend here with the same bike has me has lots of slack on his clutch line where it runs down the frame, and I wondered why I didn't have that, but I can't believe my clutch line is shorter than everyone else's. :nervous:
Anybody got an 07 parts book to hand?
Jim
38697-04 is the part # for the cable on at least the 04 and 05 models.
-
I don't know that I'd trust the trained monkeys at whatever dimly lit foreign assembly plant is assembling the lines to get the insulating wrap in precisely the same place everytime. Having considered that, and assuming there is no picking sticker or other identifier on your bars themselves, do they look like this?
It's pretty hard to tell, in the current state of disassembly..... Is there another model that is close to the 575?
Jim
-
38697-04 is the part # for the cable on at least the 04 and 05 models.
Damn, just ripped the sticker off into tiny pieces, but I thought it was an 07 number. I'm off to see if it can be unscrewed up and put back together.
Jim
<LATER> Sticker seems to say 38805-07...........
-
Is there another model that is close to the 575?
Jim
Not that I'm aware of Jim. If memory serves correctly the 575s were actually the only bar they offered as specific fitment to the the Electra Glide family.
-
Damn, just ripped the sticker off into tiny pieces, but I thought it was an 07 number. I'm off to see if it can be unscrewed up and put back together.
Jim
<LATER> Sticker seems to say 38805-07...........
Yup, according to Zanotti's site, 38805-07 is "clutch line assembly"
Jim
-
Damn, just ripped the sticker off into tiny pieces, but I thought it was an 07 number. I'm off to see if it can be unscrewed up and put back together.
Jim
<LATER> Sticker seems to say 38805-07...........
Just checked that part number at Chicago HD's website. Does indeed show up as a clutch cable.
So 07 apparently got a new part number. The new part number, in and of itself, I'm not sure suggests a length difference though. I say that only because you said a buddy's bike just like yours seem to have plenty of length. A little manufacturing variance perhaps? We don't really know at this point.
If you've loosened off everthing you can, gained all the travel you can and still can't make it reach the reason doesn't really matter though. An alternative might be ordering the 04-05-06 part number since it's a known good length. I'm still a bit flummoxed on yours though as some 07 bikes have these bars :nixweiss: .
-
Just checked that part number at Chicago HD's website. Does indeed show up as a clutch cable.
So 07 apparently got a new part number. The new part number, in and of itself, I'm not sure suggests a length difference though. I say that only because you said a buddy's bike just like yours seem to have plenty of length. A little manufacturing variance perhaps? We don't really know at this point.
If you've loosened off everthing you can, gained all the travel you can and still can't make it reach the reason doesn't really matter though. An alternative might be ordering the 04-05-06 part number since it's a known good length. I'm still a bit flummoxed on yours though as some 07 bikes have these bars :nixweiss: .
I guess we need to know if 38805-07 is an HDI only part, and maybe the 38697-04 part was fitted to domestic 07s. Easy enough for me to measure the length while the bike is in bits, but of course we don't know the length of 38697-04....
Jim
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I guess we need to know if 38805-07 is an HDI only part, and maybe the 38697-04 part was fitted to domestic 07s. Easy enough for me to measure the length while the bike is in bits, but of course we don't know the length of 38697-04....
Jim
Hopefully someone with an 07 parts manual will see this and help out. I can't imagine what specifications difference would force a different clutch cable for HDI. Suppose some difference in burst strength standards or types of wrap might account for it? It does seem unlikely though.
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Hopefully someone with an 07 parts manual will see this and help out. I can't imagine what specifications difference would force a different clutch cable for HDI. Suppose some difference in burst strength standards or types of wrap might account for it? It does seem unlikely though.
Probably doesn't help much, but the P/N for the SERK3 is 38797-07.
Hoist! 8)
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Hopefully someone with an 07 parts manual will see this and help out. I can't imagine what specifications difference would force a different clutch cable for HDI. Suppose some difference in burst strength standards or types of wrap might account for it? It does seem unlikely though.
Does seem unlikely, though anything is possible. Hopefully somebody with an 07 parts manual will be along shortly as you say.
Jim
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Probably doesn't help much, but the P/N for the SERK3 is 38797-07.
Hoist! 8)
Thanks Howie - trouble is we can't find the lengths for all these part numbers anywhere.
Jim
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Does seem unlikely, though anything is possible. Hopefully somebody with an 07 parts manual will be along shortly as you say.
Jim
Just in case some 07 owner isn't interested in the 575 bars and might therefore not peer in here might be worth starting a thread with a request in the title.
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Thanks Howie - trouble is we can't find the lengths for all these part numbers anywhere.
Jim
Jim;
I have done a few 575 swaps on 07 SE without issue on the clutch cable. I would wonder if yours is routed a bit differently?
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Jim;
I have done a few 575 swaps on 07 SE without issue on the clutch cable. I would wonder if yours is routed a bit differently?
Routing is as good as it can be to get max length, so not that I think.
However..... I've now got the length I need! :orange: I cut the cable ties fixing it to the bottom of the frame, and at the bottom of the downtube. That gave me the inch I needed, though of course it "cuts the corner" a bit where it starts to climb up the downtube, so I'll need to just make sure everything is out of harm's way down there.
Jim.
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Routing is as good as it can be to get max length, so not that I think.
However..... I've now got the length I need! :orange: I cut the cable ties fixing it to the bottom of the frame, and at the bottom of the downtube. That gave me the inch I needed, though of course it "cuts the corner" a bit where it starts to climb up the downtube, so I'll need to just make sure everything is out of harm's way down there.
Jim.
That's good news Jim. Love simple solutions. I know you've already thought of it. But.....
Before you button it all up move it to full deflection both ways. Just to make sure you're good.
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According to my parts book, 3885-07 is the cable for both domestic and HDI. I've got the bars coming and I really hope I won't run into a problem.
:indian_chief:
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That's good news Jim. Love simple solutions. I know you've already thought of it. But.....
Before you button it all up move it to full deflection both ways. Just to make sure you're good.
It's part of the plan, Don! ;)
By the way - those nice bushes didn't fit! :( Something else they've changed. Diameter on the ones you sent is much larger than the originals. Luckily I didn't destroy the original in my attempts to remove! They should fit my Sporty though, and that's a whole lot easier of a changeover!
Note of caution for anyone else doing the swap on an 07 - the bushes are a smaller diameter.
Jim
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According to my parts book, 3885-07 is the cable for both domestic and HDI. I've got the bars coming and I really hope I won't run into a problem.
:indian_chief:
Don't think you will Charlie. Most time consuming part is the internal wiring in the bars. (Molex connectors - dontcha just luv em? Errrr.... no. Bring back Deutsch!!!)
Jim
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It's part of the plan, Don! ;)
By the way - those nice bushes didn't fit! :( Something else they've changed. Diameter on the ones you sent is much larger than the originals. Luckily I didn't destroy the original in my attempts to remove! They should fit my Sporty though, and that's a whole lot easier of a changeover!
Note of caution for anyone else doing the swap on an 07 - the bushes are a smaller diameter.
Jim
That sucks. Never occurred to me they'd be different. Well, glad they'll fit the other bike. As long as they've got a use :2vrolijk_21: .
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That sucks. Never occurred to me they'd be different. Well, glad they'll fit the other bike. As long as they've got a use :2vrolijk_21: .
Nor me! But they'll do even more good on the Sporty, where vibration is King! :drink:
Jim
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Plodding on with this when I get a quiet hour or two, though the lack of light is the real killer - by 2PM it's nearly too dark to see.
Now struggling with length on the throttle cables, and there's no slack to play with. The bend must be too tight, as the throttle closes in slow motion! (Even in the bars straight position...)
I'm thinking I need longer cables for sure. Anyone know the part number? 38650-98 Throttle cable & 56730-03 idle cable maybe?
Jim
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Plodding on with this when I get a quiet hour or two, though the lack of light is the real killer - by 2PM it's nearly too dark to see.
Now struggling with length on the throttle cables, and there's no slack to play with. The bend must be too tight, as the throttle closes in slow motion! (Even in the bars straight position...)
I'm thinking I need longer cables for sure. Anyone know the part number? 38650-98 Throttle cable & 56730-03 idle cable maybe?
Jim
No. looks like I need a kit of both cables, 56778-04 - anyone agree?
Jim
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Can I just ask those who have done this - did you put the brake line in front or behind the throttle cables (the part from the bars to the inner fairing I mean).
Jim
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TC,
Didnt need the longer screw -- for the cover that is! A little dremelling did the trick.
Mark
What did you have to Dremel, Mark?
Jim
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Jim, to my knowledge no one has had to change throttle cables when doing this bar change.
You ask about the throttle and idle cables location adjacent to the brake line. Are they coming through the same hole in the fairing on your bike?
Originally the throttle and idle cables should go through the hole in the inner fairing. Not the hole in the fairing cap adjacent to the handlebars and brake line. If you need to gain a little length, however, you could relocate those cables to the same hole that the brake line goes through with the handlebars. It'll all fit and work fine.
Even though that might be a solution I'm still sitting here with no clue why yours won't work to begin with. Don't know of anyone else that's had that problem with just the bar swap.
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Jim, to my knowledge know one has had to change throttle cables when doing this bar change.
You ask about the throttle and idle cables location adjacent to the brake line. Are they coming through the same hole in the fairing on your bike?
Originally the throttle and idle cables should go through the hole in the inner fairing. Not the hole in the fairing cap adjacent to the handlebars and brake line. If you need to gain a little length, however, you could relocate those cables to the same hole that the brake line goes through with the handlebars. It'll all fit and work fine.
Even though that might be a solution I'm still sitting here with no clue why yours won't work to begin with. Don't know of anyone else that's had that problem with just the bar swap.
Just call me "Lucky Jim", Don! ;)
Throttle and idle cables go through the original hole in the inner fairing, brake line goes through beside the bars - just a question of what looks best there (I note yours is behind the throttle/idle cables, and Terry has his in front! :)
According to the venerable HD-Dude, in
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=18002.msg291833#msg291833
"For the 575 bars on the EG models I would say that about 50% of the time I end up using +2" throttle and idle cables. There must be some variance in the routing and or cable lenth from the factory. The consistant thing about Harleys is that they are inconsistant...... "
I guess I'm one of the (un) lucky 50%!
Jim
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The only thing I replaced was the front brake lines.....Since I went with a single front rotor, I had to replace it anyway. I did nothing with the throttle cables. I will rephrase that. I hate the look of the stock ones on the 04 SEEG. They have that ugly black covers over the adjusters. I replaced the cables on the 06 FLHX with 2" over SS lines. They have chrome adjusters and look 1000% better.
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The only thing I replaced was the front brake lines.....Since I went with a single front rotor, I had to replace it anyway. I did nothing with the throttle cables. I will rephrase that. I hate the look of the stock ones on the 04 SEEG. They have that ugly black covers over the adjusters. I replaced the cables on the 06 FLHX with 2" over SS lines. They have chrome adjusters and look 1000% better.
Wouldn't these - Chrome Throttle and Idle Cable Adjuster Covers (http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448766724&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374309212190&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374309212190&bmUID=1196887750966&bmLocale=en_US) serve the same purpose?
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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Just call me "Lucky Jim", Don! ;)
This task is certainly fighting you. When my bars went on there was no issue. Later when the throttle body was changed that took a bit more length. Had to move the cables to the same hole the brake line and bars went through. That move actually gains a fair bit of slack.
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The only thing I replaced was the front brake lines.....Since I went with a single front rotor, I had to replace it anyway. I did nothing with the throttle cables. I will rephrase that. I hate the look of the stock ones on the 04 SEEG. They have that ugly black covers over the adjusters. I replaced the cables on the 06 FLHX with 2" over SS lines. They have chrome adjusters and look 1000% better.
:worthless:
While I dislike the rubber duckie covers, I dislike the chrome capsule covers more. Can you show us what your adjuster covers are like?
:indian_chief:
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Wouldn't these - Chrome Throttle and Idle Cable Adjuster Covers (http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448766724&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374309212190&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374309212190&bmUID=1196887750966&bmLocale=en_US) serve the same purpose?
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Gary, I had those chency things on and they collected water and the little clamps kept breaking on them.
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:worthless:
While I dislike the rubber duckie covers, I dislike the chrome capsule covers more. Can you show us what your adjuster covers are like?
:indian_chief:
If I had the bike in one piece now I would show you. It is not so I can not show you. I believe they are the capsule you are talking about.
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Gary, I had those chency things on and they collected water and the little clamps kept breaking on them.
Hmmm, you may have just saved me $59.95. Thanks. :2vrolijk_21:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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Hmmm, you may have just saved me $59.95. Thanks. :2vrolijk_21:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Or maybe not. Mine have been on (and off and on and off and on and off and on and off) since the bike was new. They are not even close to my favorite part in the world. But they look better than the cables do without them.
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like that !
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Or maybe not. Mine have been on (and off and on and off and on and off and on and off) since the bike was new. They are not even close to my favorite part in the world. But they look better than the cables do without them.
I've seen them on yours and Brian's (103tHunDer) and was waiting to hear what you and others had thought of them. Question do you cut the rubber off to put these on? Just wondering what you do if I were to end up having problems like Brian (Hogasm) stated.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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I've seen them on yours and Brian's (103tHunDer) and was waiting to hear what you and others had thought of them. Question do you cut the rubber off to put these on? Just wondering what you do if I were to end up having problems like Brian (Hogasm) stated.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Yes, the rubbers get cut off. I've really not had any problem them. Not actually that wild about the look. But it is better with them than without. Still liable to change cables some day if I'm feeling very energetic.
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I've seen them on yours and Brian's (103tHunDer) and was waiting to hear what you and others had thought of them. Question do you cut the rubber off to put these on? Just wondering what you do if I were to end up having problems like Brian (Hogasm) stated.
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
Gary...I've had those covers on mine for a while now, and though they are also not my favorite thing on the bike, they do hide the dog's a$$ rubber covers that come stock. The little clamps are a POS though. A small piece of picture hanging braided wire, placed strategically and twisted with a pair of needle-eye nosed pliers works wonders though.
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Hmmm, you may have just saved me $59.95. Thanks. :2vrolijk_21:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
I have them, and the way to make them good is to dispense with the little "C" clips that they come with, which are useless, and close them with a little chrome cable tie at each end. Works great, looks great.
Jim
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Yes, the rubbers get cut off. I've really not had any problem them. Not actually that wild about the look. But it is better with them than without. Still liable to change cables some day if I'm feeling very energetic.
On the 07, they go happily OVER the rubbers, so you don't have to cut them off.
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This task is certainly fighting you. When my bars went on there was no issue. Later when the throttle body was changed that took a bit more length. Had to move the cables to the same hole the brake line and bars went through. That move actually gains a fair bit of slack.
Fighting me all the way, Don. >:( Just had an entertaining half hour trying to get the ignition switch to go back in and line up.
Looked at taking the cables through the bar hole, but I doubt it would help - length per se is not the problem, it's the bend being too tight due to them being short.
Jim :nixweiss:
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If I had the bike in one piece now I would show you. It is not so I can not show you. I believe they are the capsule you are talking about.
The ones I don't like are the same ones Gary linked to. I took your comment to mean you had something different.... I hope. ;D
:indian_chief:
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Gary if you want mine you can have them. Find some chrome cable ties to make the ends a little cleaner.
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Gary if you want mine you can have them. Find some chrome cable ties to make the ends a little cleaner.
Thanks, hold on to them for now. :2vrolijk_21: I'm still not completely sold on them yet though. We can have a drink of Crown next time we see each other and discuss them more. :drink: It's obviously not one of the things that was high on my priority list and the fact that I'm hearing some that aren't happy w/the clips doesn't help. Since I wouldn't be adjusting the cables in the first place and the likelyhood of the tech that would having chrome cable ties to replace when he cuts old ones off. It just seems there may be more trouble w/them then w/o. :nixweiss:
:pumpkin:
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
:fireman:
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I've been working on the bike for the past week after returning from our Florida trip. I ordered a set of Wild 1 Chubby's from Jim (hd-dude) and they had come while we were gone, so the next weekend I started on this project and adding a couple of additional bits of chrome to the bike. These bars are up and back about 1.5" from stock, and are 1 1/4" bars, so they are a little fatter looking. Actually, they are 1 inch bars covered by another 1 1/4" inch tube, so they will fit the riser clamps and all the grips, etc will fit.
Let me tell you, this is NOT a fun job to do!! To get the old bars out and the new ones in, the entire radio system must come out, the lower inner fairing has to come off, and of course all the wires inside the bars have to be pulled out and installed in the Chubbys. Of course the connectors for the switches, grips, etc will not pull through the holes in the bars, so all the wire pins must be removed from the connectors, wires pulled out, pulled into the new bars, then all pins inserted back into their proper places in the connectors. The is not really difficult, but it is necessary to be very careful about being certain that all wires go back to the proper place. I drew a wiring diagram of the pin holes with the color wire that goes into that particular pin hole...you could insert the wires back into the pin holes when the bars are mounted on the bike with the wiring schematics, but it is tight in there, so I opted to do it on the workbench. I also took this opportunity to internally wire the Legend Shock Switch. The Legend Switch is made for 1 inch bars, so some modification with a Dremel tool was necessary to make everything fit properly on the new bars, plus a channel had to be cut into the switch so the wires for it could go back into the hole for the rest of the wiring that is internal on our bikes. This modification of the legend switch turned out well, but took some time to get right. A couple of hours or more...
The hardest part is getting the rear bolts out of the risers, at least on my bike. You MUST have a ball end allen wrench to do this. My inner fairing must have also been mounted as far to the rear as is possible, as I ended up having to loosen the lower inner fairing by removing the Aux spot light/turn signal brackets on both sides to gain a little extra room to get the bolts out. The bottom of the radio opening is sitting right on top of the bolts for the clamps...when the bolts come up, they actuall hit the bottom of the radio opening, so some movement of that area is necessary to get them out.
I really like the look of the new bars, and the riding position is much better for me. I have not given it a true test yet, but I feel certain the riding position will alleviate the shoulder neck pain I got after riding a few hours with the stock bars...I was having to reach too far forward and down to reach things. We'll see...
If I had someone I REALLY trusted, I would have let them do this job, cause it's a beautch...but at least I know it was done right, though it took some time for me to complete.
Here's some pics of parts of the process...
First, outer fairing off, radio unplugged ready to begin pulling...
17 hours of labor on my 2008 SE Ultra by a trained tech!! Worth it though, much better riding position.
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17 hours of labor on my 2008 SE Ultra by a trained tech!! Worth it though, much better riding position.
At our local dealer, that would have cost you $2,427.00! :o
Jim
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At our local dealer, that would have cost you $2,427.00! :o
Jim
$140.00 per hour.Are they nuts?
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$140.00 per hour.Are they nuts?
Going rate in dealers around here. Probably why the little independents do well, at $90 an hour. ;D
Just glad I do all my own work! :drink:
Jim
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17 hours of labor by a trained tech
Either you got hosed or the tech wasn't trained, in which case you got hosed.
Most of the guys here that have never tackled a project like that can do it under 6-8 hours, and that is with reading the book.
It shouldn't take 17 hours to overhaul the engine.
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Going rate in dealers around here. Probably why the little independents do well, at $90 an hour. ;D
Just glad I do all my own work! :drink:
Jim
£71 GBP by my calculations.
Smart to do your own work Jim.
Mike
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$140.00 per hour.Are they nuts?
Doug Kiem is a local builder where I live, and that is his rate :o for repairs and maintenance.
http://www.dougkeim.com/
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£71 GBP by my calculations.
Smart to do your own work Jim.
Mike
£62.00 + tax takes it to £72.85 an hour, indeed Mike. I'm sorry for the guys who can't do their own stuff..... :nixweiss:
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£62.00 + tax takes it to £72.85 an hour, indeed Mike. I'm sorry for the guys who can't do their own stuff..... :nixweiss:
But don't they quote the rate with the VAT included?
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Going rate in dealers around here. Probably why the little independents do well, at $90 an hour. ;D
Just glad I do all my own work! :drink:
Jim
Its funny you mention about doing your own work. Other than something very serious my bike doesn't see a Dealer. When motor work etc is involved it goes to the local independant.
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But don't they quote the rate with the VAT included?
No - makes it seem more expensive if they do that! :-)
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No - makes it seem more expensive if they do that! :-)
is it only items you buy then that have the VAT added in already?
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is it only items you buy then that have the VAT added in already?
In shops, yes. Services, and any items for business are quoted ex-VAT, because on things bought for business by a VAT registered business, you can reclaim the VAT.
Thus in my business, (I sell computers, mainly for business use), I quote the price as £xxx + VAT, rather than £xxx including VAT.
Jim
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Either you got hosed or the tech wasn't trained, in which case you got hosed.
Most of the guys here that have never tackled a project like that can do it under 6-8 hours, and that is with reading the book.
It shouldn't take 17 hours to overhaul the engine.
I agree, it sounds like a lot. He was cool and only charged me for 8 hours (what he estimated originally). I guess the 08's with ABS take a little more time due to the extensions, etc. My local HD wouldn't do the job because the ABS lines required non-HD parts. They had the bike for three days before letting me know.
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LOL! If you'd ride one of these 575-powered bikes tomorrow, you wouldn't be able to wait that llllllooooooooooonnnnnnngggggg to do something! [smiley=huepfenlol2.gif]
Just put 400 miles on my 08 this weekend with the new 575 bars. Well worth the investment and time. Much, much better riding position. Stopped by Lancaster HD and bought a real backrest for the SE seat. Replaces the cheesy one it comes with.
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Stopped by Lancaster HD
Lancaster where?
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I agree, it sounds like a lot. He was cool and only charged me for 8 hours (what he estimated originally). I guess the 08's with ABS take a little more time due to the extensions, etc. My local HD wouldn't do the job because the ABS lines required non-HD parts. They had the bike for three days before letting me know.
8 hours sounds a bit high, but probably what the dealers are charging anyway for that upgrade. Since it is non HD part you are at their mercy if you can't do it yourself.
Too many dealers are cranked up about those non HD parts.
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Straightshooter
I have the same problem with my stealer he won't put the 575's on because of a non harley line from the master cylinder to the abs unit. I was going to do it my self but they tell me that you have to have a digital tech to bleed the brakes after the line install. I was wondering how your Indy bled the brakes?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks John
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OK, time for a brake line question. The banjo fitting that goes on the master cylinder lays naturally with the banjo bolt 90 degrees to the tapped hole in the master cyl. I can get it to line up and go in but this requires twisting the cable the 90 degrees which starts the cable into a partial 'hoop'.
Have others encountered this same alignment issue, or might I have a goofed up top brake line. The two lower lines look fine, it's just the top portion that is screwy.
Pictures is coming.
:indian_chief:
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OK, time for a brake line question. The banjo fitting that goes on the master cylinder lays naturally with the banjo bolt 90 degrees to the tapped hole in the master cyl. I can get it to line up and go in but this requires twisting the cable the 90 degrees which starts the cable into a partial 'hoop'.
Have others encountered this same alignment issue, or might I have a goofed up top brake line. The two lower lines look fine, it's just the top portion that is screwy.
Pictures is coming.
:indian_chief:
Mine was fine, Chiefy - need to see the pix to get a handle on what you are describing though.
Jim
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Mine was fine, Chiefy - need to see the pix to get a handle on what you are describing though.
Jim
Since you asked..... To better illustrate the problem, I went ahead and stacked the old manifold under the new so everything will be as close to the same as possible.
:indian_chief:
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Here's how far off they are. The short line is the original and the banjo bolt lines up almost perfectly with the hole in the MC. The new line you can see the banjo bolt is almost perpendicular to the centerline of the hole. To get it to line up, I have to grasp the line and twist it counter-clockwise. This causes the line to start forming a hoop inside the fairing.
:indian_chief:
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Here's how far off they are. The short line is the original and the banjo bolt lines up almost perfectly with the hole in the MC. The new line you can see the banjo bolt is almost perpendicular to the centerline of the hole. To get it to line up, I have to grasp the line and twist it counter-clockwise. This causes the line to start forming a hoop inside the fairing.
:indian_chief:
If you are saying that neither end has a swivel built into it, then you have a problem. Some may suggest twisting the lower end, but not me. If you are sure no swivel exists, I would return it for a new line...
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Chief;
I have had cables do the same thing. It really is not a big deal if you put a bit of twist in the line, provided its not too drastic. What I try to do is twist it so that it causes the cable to lay in the direction that causes it to flow along the bars. The twist will be hidden in the fairing.
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Chief;
I have had cables do the same thing. It really is not a big deal if you put a bit of twist in the line, provided its not too drastic. What I try to do is twist it so that it causes the cable to lay in the direction that causes it to flow along the bars. The twist will be hidden in the fairing.
I'm lucky in that regard as the CCW twist does lay the line up against the inner fairing bracket. I'm just concerned in that much residual torque being in the line.
I may see if I can get another one to compare it to.
Thanks.
:indian_chief:
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Just put 400 miles on my 08 this weekend with the new 575 bars. Well worth the investment and time. Much, much better riding position. Stopped by Lancaster HD and bought a real backrest for the SE seat. Replaces the cheesy one it comes with.
[/color]
what kind of back rest did you get what part # is it a HD or after market
Dale
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Has any one installed the 575 with fairing mounted mirrors, and if so can you still see behind you in the mirrors? The chubby web site said they are for SG so I would asume they would work.
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I have contemplated the mirrors until this past week.
I was alongside a bike with the mirrors the other day. I was comparing views with my bike (w/575's) I would not be able to see most of the mirror with the bars.
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Porthole
I was thinking the same thing, but since there web page showed them on a SG (even though I now there trying to sell bars) I thought maybe they would be ok, but was thinking as many poeple that are on the site maybe some one has that combo? I have the fairing mount mirrors on mine because I pull a trailer and once you get used to them I think I can see better.(Somtimes U Just Want To See Where U've been)
Jim