Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[newdep]

Yes indeed they look great!  Thanks for posting the pics. How do you like them?

Mike,

I haven't gotten to ride yet, other than a quick start up. They did sound very deep but it will be darn near April before I get to find out.

[MikeV]

Dave - From the pictures you posted it looks like you did not add the heat shields back over the mufflers. Is this because they do not fit or match up correctly?

Thanks,

Mike

[Mr. Wizard]

FYI

Last week I received the X Pipe and baffle inserts from Steve @ Fullsac for my SESG. The sound is sweet. I got his 1.75" baffles. I spoke with him about doing this for the ConV. He asked me to take some pictures and measurements of the baffle and send them to him. Steve will check to see if he can make the baffles for the ConV. Looking at them they are the same as the touring bikes but just a little shorter.

Will give you guys an update as soon as I hear back.

[MikeV]

That's great news, it is exactly the solution I was looking for. I'll be first in line!

Mike

[Mr. Wizard]

I will be removing a muffler off the ConV tomorrow. The baffle is held in with three pop rivets, no welds. Drill them out and the stock baffle can be removed by using a broom handle in the inlet and tapping the baffle to the outlet.

If Steve can make these for us he will not include the baffle wrap. The less wrap you use the louder these pipes will be also the hotter your can's will get and will possibly over heat showing bluing or browning the chrome under the heat shields. I will be using all of the factory wrap.

Insert the new wrapped baffles and install new pop rivets.

This will take about an hour. This should also be a fraction of the cost of new pipes.

More later

[Gamma742]

Count me in. The 1.75 has the best sound without drawing too much unwanted attention.

[Mr. Wizard]

I took some brief shots and sent them to Steve. This is what your baffle looks like without the wrapping.

The left end holds the Catalyst and is welded in the baffle tubing.

[Mr. Wizard]

Update

Steve says he can make these baffles. His first production 2.0's should be headed my way in 3 to 5 weeks.

I'll install them and give a report. Unfortunately our vid cam is on the blink so I can't do a sound bite.  but if they are anything like the one's on my SESG they will be great.

More later

[MikeV]

Mr. Wizard,

That's great news. Why the 2" as opposed to the 1.75"? I am worried that the 2" with the 110 will be a bit louder than I was aiming for.

Thanks,

Mike

[Mr. Wizard]

Mr. Wizard,

That's great news. Why the 2" as opposed to the 1.75"? I am worried that the 2" with the 110 will be a bit louder than I was aiming for.

Thanks,

Mike

BE likes the sound of the 2.0 baffles and that is what she wants on her ConV.

Steve can make 1.75's too. He just has to order the end caps and weld them to his CVO baffle.

I have his 1.75's on the SESG and they are pretty quiet.

[MikeV]

Yeah, why not go ALL IN if you are going through the trouble of replacing them? I have been under tons of stress from the job lately and I am sure they will make me smile every time I twist the throttle. Honey these are THERAPUTIC baffles...

[Graybeard]

Hi NewDep;

Loved the video and the data on the RUSH Slipons.

I need some advice on the mods I'm want to make on my 2010 Conv. (BTW I have the same color as yours...sweet)
I have two concerns that I have been talking to the Annapolis Harley dealer about. For the most part I work with a guy in service named Mike who really seems to know his stuff, but I'd like a few other opinions before I dump the $$$.

1. Like most, I want a little more "Harley" sound out of the pipes, and like most also, I like the look of the stock pipes, so I'll more than likely go with the Rush 1.75 Slip On's.

2. The stock 2010 CVO engine is a high temperature engine, especially under idle. I notice even in the winter the the electronic temp control will kick in at idle even after a short period of time, shutting down the fuel to the rear jug. From what I have read in other post, this could get damn uncomfortable in the summer. If I have it correct, the eat is due to several factors.

a. At idle the EFI is in close loop and the engine AFR is very lean (due to EPA).
b. The 2010 has Cat Converters and they restrict a lot of air flow, as well as causing a lot of heat.
c. The stock air intake, tough matched to the OEM pipes, again restricts the flow through the engine.

Mike has suggested the following as a first step.

a. Add a PCV or other manufacture to be able to lower the AFR from 14 to 13:1. He indicated the stock ECM on 2010 can't be remapped to this config.
b. Install a set of 1.75 Rush SlipOn's for sound and better air flow
c. Add an improved air intake kit, again to improve flow through the engine.

After all this, remap the PCV and I should be pleased with the performance. Also, when I asked, he said a dyno would not be needed.

Do you agree.....also, did you change your O2 to wide band, or kept the original narrow band.

Thanks for any advice. I'm new to the HD family, so I hope I have noscrewed up any technical issues.

Mickey

[Graybeard]

Update..

Talked to Jamie at Fuelmoto...great guy and very helpful.

He agreed with my setup above but also recommended adding the PCV with autotune option and the wide band O2 sensors. He also confirmed they stock the upgraded air cleaner for the CVO convertable (you use your existing face plate). As a final point he agreed with the HD dealer that the bike would not have to be dyno'd.

One other point, he mentioned that Fuelmoto wanted to be a sponsor on this site, but the site admin / owners required fuelmoto to give a certain discount to this sites users. I won't mention the number. Jamie said it's a shame because they like the site and could offer a lot of technical support to us...

Maybe if some of the more senior users ( I'm new so I'll keep my mouth shut) could ping the site admin and see if they could reconsider allowing Fuelmoto as a sponsor.

Mickey

[MikeV]

Mickey,

Funny, I am asking all the same questions. After doing a lot of reading I decided to address the exhaust by replacing the baffles instead of the entire mufflers. I really like the Rush slip-ons and was close to ordering them but when I found out that Steve from Fullsac Performace was making the baffles for the convertible it was a no-brainer. This will allow me to keep the totally stock look, remove the cats (which are actually in the stock baffles) and get the sound I want. As an added bonus, it is a less expensive option and the bike retains the EPA stamp of the sock mufflers in case you get stopped and inspected. It's not a fool proof way to avoid a ticket but every little bit helps.

As to the heat / fuel mixture issue, I plan to install a set of O2 IED's (XiED's from Nightrider). This will reduce the closed loop AFR to 13.8:1 which will reduce heat and a bunch of other nice benefits. Again, a low cost plug and play solution that can be installed in 10 minutes. There is a lot of discussion on the boards about using IED's over a PCM and full tune but I think for the money it's worth trying. Now I have also heard (but remains unverified) that the latest computers in our bikes will adjust the open loop AFR over time based on data from the closed loop values. So in theory as the computer adjusts it's closed loop tables there is added benefit to the open loop side. There is lots to be read on this and other boards about open & closed loop and all so I won't go into it here. There's a LOT of really good information out there and even more dated and misinformation. You have to wade through it all and make a decision. What the IED's do makes sense after learning how the computer makes decisions on the fuel mixture. For me, using the XiED's is a small risk $ wise and if it saves me $$$ getting a full tune and computer, etc.

As far as the air cleaner, I was under assumption that this was already a higher volume unit. For now that one stays as is until I get more time with the bike. If I change that too then I may have to go for the full tune, something I am hoping to avoid right now. Even if I do change the air cleaner, depending on who you ask, you can still let the stock computer with the IED's make the adjustments and you will do just fine (again depending on who you ask). YMMV...

Mike

[Fired00d]

Update..

Talked to Jamie at Fuelmoto...great guy and very helpful.

He agreed with my setup above but also recommended adding the PCV with autotune option and the wide band O2 sensors. He also confirmed they stock the upgraded air cleaner for the CVO convertable (you use your existing face plate). As a final point he agreed with the HD dealer that the bike would not have to be dyno'd.

One other point, he mentioned that Fuelmoto wanted to be a sponsor on this site, but the site admin / owners required fuelmoto to give a certain discount to this sites users. I won't mention the number. Jamie said it's a shame because they like the site and could offer a lot of technical support to us...

Maybe if some of the more senior users ( I'm new so I'll keep my mouth shut) could ping the site admin and see if they could reconsider allowing Fuelmoto as a sponsor.

Mickey

Since you mentioned it then he should be willing to give the same discount that all the other vendors that have joined here have given and that is clearly written in our rules of posting to www.CVOHARLEY.com. Think about it if you were one of the vendors that have offered the required discount and we gave him something different/special..... I doubt you would be happy. Fair is fair, sorry he couldn't abide by our request, but it wouldn't be fair to treat him different then the vendors that have come before him or will come after him.


 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d