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[Midnight Rider]

The Zipper's 575 is just under the maxium lift for the stock springs, so it's good to go. The Freedom YB 14's are a little less lift, so even a bit easier on the springs, but the difference is not significant.  Both produce similar numbers and are excellent choices.  The Freedom comes in a bit later, but holds on a little longer than the Zippers, so it really boils down to a matter of where you like to shift.  A feller' can't go wrong with one of these cams.

[redtwin]

se 264,flow the heads,50 mil injection

[DCFIREMANN]

se 264,flow the heads,50 mil injection

That would be the worst choice anyone could make for these motors!

Gear Driven cams only in my bikes!

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[redtwin]

dc why do you think that is a bad idea? just would like your opinion

[DCFIREMANN]

First off they are chain driven. That right there puts them out of the running for any of my bikes. Second if you use that cam you will have nothing but problems unless you up the compression and use a different set of heads.

Be Safe

THE DAWG

[gilbos440rt]

Hello all, my first post here so bear with me. Has any one tried the Head Quarters 0039G in a 103? I'm getting ready to do a 95" with those cams and a T-max and D&D fatcat also a set of big boyz street ported 04 heads ( no valve seal trouble) My bike is an 05 Road Glide that I really like, this is with me coming off a dual plug solid lifter Shovelhead I bought new in 83 so it already feels fast   

[bisounours]

Good afternoon gilbos440rt,

I send you the  from FRANCE.

It'll be nice for the other members if you present you in the thread "New Member Introduction"
with a pic of your bike 

Best regards
   Jacques

[103_RK]

I am still trying to decide which to go with.  I see dyno charts for the 575 cams and they tend to have a low amount of torque in the 1800 to 2500 rpm area.  Sometimes they have less than the cams they replace. I would like to compare the Andrews 37G in this area.  I know the 575's probably make more torque in the mid and upper range.  I think that if I cannot increase the torque in the low range, maybe I should just buy a new cam chain tensioner and stay with the stock cams.  Am I expecting too much?  This is a lot of money to spend and I need to know that I won't be disappointed with the low rpm rideability.  When I am driving on roads other than interstates, I tend to keep my rpms around the 1800 to 2500 range.

[110tHunDer]

 
At anything less than 2000 rpms with any cam you're lugging the motor, IMHO.  So, then, you're talking about a concern within an extremely narrow 500 rpm band between 2000 and 2500 rpm on a motor that has a much broader 3500 - 4000 rpm running range?  I'm not sure that makes a lot of sense.

Attached is my dyno sheet before and after my 575s and other mods.

Blue line: stock cams, Scremin' Eagle air cleaner, Screamin' Eagle one-piece slip-ons, and Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 ECM calibration

Red line: 575 gear-drive cams, Screamin' Eagle air cleaner, Rinehart true dual exhaust, Feuling oil pump and lifters, Zipper's pushrods, and custom Screamin' Eagle Race Tuner program

In the graph, there is little improvement in the 2000 - 2500 rpm range you're concerned about, but I can tell you the bike feels much better in the 2000 - 3000 range than before the work was done.  The bike is much more responsive and motors along much more happily than before in that range, so much so, that I am probably going to do a 6-speed transmission this winter just because the bike performs so much better in the lower end now than it did stock.  And, as the graph depicts, you better be holding on at 3000 rpm and beyond!  If you are motoring along at 3 grand and crack the throttle wide open, you will get air under the front tire in either 1st or 2nd gear.  It is just extremely strong running and fun to ride in that area above 3000 rpm!

So, go ahead and stick with those stock cams!   If you don't do the 575s, I guess you'll never know what you're missing!

[HWYMAN1]

At anything less than 2000 rpms with any cam you're lugging the motor, IMHO.  So, then, you're talking about a concern within an extremely narrow 500 rpm band between 2000 and 2500 rpm on a motor that has a much broader 3500 - 4000 rpm running range?  I'm not sure that makes a lot of sense.

Attached is my dyno sheet before and after my 575s and other mods.

Blue line: stock cams, Scremin' Eagle air cleaner, Screamin' Eagle one-piece slip-ons, and Screamin' Eagle Stage 1 ECM calibration

Red line: 575 gear-drive cams, Screamin' Eagle air cleaner, Rinehart true dual exhaust, Feuling oil pump and lifters, Zipper's pushrods, and custom Screamin' Eagle Race Tuner program

In the graph, there is little improvement in the 2000 - 2500 rpm range you're concerned about, but I can tell you the bike feels much better in the 2000 - 3000 range than before the work was done.  The bike is much more responsive and motors along much more happily than before in that range, so much so, that I am probably going to do a 6-speed transmission this winter just because the bike performs so much better in the lower end now than it did stock.  And, as the graph depicts, you better be holding on at 3000 rpm and beyond!  If you are motoring along at 3 grand and crack the throttle wide open, you will get air under the front tire in either 1st or 2nd gear.  It is just extremely strong running and fun to ride in that area above 3000 rpm!

So, go ahead and stick with those stock cams!   If you don't do the 575s, I guess you'll never know what you're missing!

Brian,
couldn't agree more abouth the 575 cams. although they are not a panacea for performance the midrange with full 2 up riding loads the midrange torque is undeniable. On aside note, I have same set up as you minus RH TD( V&H TD with slip ons) switch to PCIII(changed from SERT could not find a tuner that could dial it in)and numbers are HP 91 and torque 101. I know the guy at Bumpus appears to be a magician, but are the V&H really limiting the torque number for the cam that much? John

[103_RK]

Thanks for the reply, I know it seems unreasonable to worry about such a small rpm range.  A lot of my riding is in this rang.  I'm glad to hear how happy you are with the 575's.  I probably will end up getting them, I just wanted to hear how happy people are with the low range since I have seen good numbers on several dyno chart that had lower numbers at the 2000 to 2500 rpm range than the stock cams had.

Thanks again

[110tHunDer]

Brian,
couldn't agree more abouth the 575 cams. although they are not a panacea for performance the midrange with full 2 up riding loads the midrange torque is undeniable. On aside note, I have same set up as you minus RH TD( V&H TD with slip ons) switch to PCIII(changed from SERT could not find a tuner that could dial it in)and numbers are HP 91 and torque 101. I know the guy at Bumpus appears to be a magician, but are the V&H really limiting the torque number for the cam that much? John

John, your numbers are more like what we've seen with stock bikes that have just air cleaner and exhaust mods.  Did you have a baseline run done before the mods so you can compare the increase?  It could just be that you had the bike on a pessimistic dyno and that the actual increase you got with the cams is right in line with everyone, or almost everyone, else and that the numbers would be higher on another dyno.  I probably wouldn't get too hung up on the lower than normal numbers as long as the bike is running good and feels stronger than before you did the cams.

Also, if it's buggin' ya, you could see if my theory is correct by having a baseline run done on another dyno.  It'd be a lot cheaper than throwing a set of Rineharts at it first.

[HWYMAN1]

John, your numbers are more like what we've seen with stock bikes that have just air cleaner and exhaust mods.  Did you have a baseline run done before the mods so you can compare the increase?  It could just be that you had the bike on a pessimistic dyno and that the actual increase you got with the cams is right in line with everyone, or almost everyone, else and that the numbers would be higher on another dyno.  I probably wouldn't get too hung up on the lower than normal numbers as long as the bike is running good and feels stronger than before you did the cams.

Also, if it's buggin' ya, you could see if my theory is correct by having a baseline run done on another dyno.  It'd be a lot cheaper than throwing a set of Rineharts at it first.

Brian,
When i put SE AC, SERT, and V&H slip ons the dyno was 87HP and 93 Torque, I have had re dynoed twice after VH TD, cam changes. first with SERT was 82HP and 95 torque, and finally was convinced that nobody could dial in a SERT put on PCIII with above numbers. It does run better since retuned with PCIII but I guess like you said maybe its a guy thing the numbers ( you know like mines bigger than yours kind of thing). But sometimes I wonder if the enemy of good is better and should just ride and enjoy instead of fixating on numbers.  I guess what I really need is to find a primo tuner ( like Bumpus) and let them play with it see what its got and put the issue to bed ( maybe a ride to Memphis is in my future!) thanks for the help, JOHN

[Fired00d]

John,
Most important thing is does it run better then before mods? Dyno's are so different, unless you are running on the same dyno/same time (temp/humidity/etc) as so and so that has higher numbers then you, then you really can't compare them to each other. If you feel you have more power then before mods, and your bike is running good then enjoy it. If you get caught up on the numbers thing and not running on the same dyno at the same time then you are doing yourself an injustice.

 
Ride Safe,
Fired00d
 

[Twolanerider]

Beagle has a set of Hookers that might be offered up cheaply to help out.....