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[billt1]

Andrews 54 cam set ,  Cometic .030 head gaskets,2.0” CVO Muffler Cores,TTS Master tune ,Fullsac X-Pipe

[Puzzled]

Thank you. 

[kojak]

The big question is how do you ride? If you mostly ride in the 2500-3500 rpm range like majority of riders out there, dont bother with mods beyond what you've already done. If you dont shift a lot and like passing vehicles in a tall gear at normal highway speeds, then the se 255 is a good cam for you. Personally, I like cams that kick in early and generate consistent torque through 4000 rpm because that matches how I ride,
On the other hand, if you like winding your motor up to high rpms frequently and shift to maintain a higher rpm range and arent concerned about low end torque, then go for it. Dyno charts are good for making sure your bike was tuned right, dont mean a hill of beans after that imo.

[SDCVO]

So I started this thread 5 months ago. Since then all I did was a set of Fatcats and a SERT with a amazing tune (Dyno attached). As Kojak says, I love having the power kick in at 2200 RPM and 90% of the time I do ride in the 2500-4000 range but once in a while I wish I did have another 20 HP or so to really run it out. What I don't want to do is lose that power coming on so early so every time I talk to someone about changing out the cams and maybe going with that thinner gasket for a small compression bump, I get talked out of it. The bike is making 120 TQ so really the only gain I can get without going crazy is HP.
A couple of weeks ago I spoke to a guy that said that if I did a small amount of headwork, changed the gasket and then changed the cams to either the Kury or the Andrews I would still get my 100+TQ at 2200RPM but would probably get around 125 HP and keep my TQ over 120 but it would no longer die at 4200RPM like it does now (though I would say more around 4500).
Would someone with knowledge (God knows that is not me..) comment on that? Is it worth the dollar-HP gain? I do have the 7 yr extended warranty and I would obviously be voiding the motor part of that (might have already done that though with the SERT) which might be another factor to consider.
Another problem even if I do decide to go forward is that I don't k now of any good motor mechanics in San Diego. Does anyone? In CA, the dealer can not do any motor mods. The guy that did my tune is amazing but only does tunes.

[Midnight Rider]

So I started this thread 5 months ago. Since then all I did was a set of Fatcats and a SERT with a amazing tune (Dyno attached). As Kojak says, I love having the power kick in at 2200 RPM and 90% of the time I do ride in the 2500-4000 range but once in a while I wish I did have another 20 HP or so to really run it out. What I don't want to do is lose that power coming on so early so every time I talk to someone about changing out the cams and maybe going with that thinner gasket for a small compression bump, I get talked out of it. The bike is making 120 TQ so really the only gain I can get without going crazy is HP.
A couple of weeks ago I spoke to a guy that said that if I did a small amount of headwork, changed the gasket and then changed the cams to either the Kury or the Andrews I would still get my 100+TQ at 2200RPM but would probably get around 125 HP and keep my TQ over 120 but it would no longer die at 4200RPM like it does now (though I would say more around 4500).
Would someone with knowledge (God knows that is not me..) comment on that? Is it worth the dollar-HP gain? I do have the 7 yr extended warranty and I would obviously be voiding the motor part of that (might have already done that though with the SERT) which might be another factor to consider.
Another problem even if I do decide to go forward is that I don't k now of any good motor mechanics in San Diego. Does anyone? In CA, the dealer can not do any motor mods. The guy that did my tune is amazing but only does tunes.

I know it's not exactly in the neighborhood for you, but if I lived anywhere near California, there's only one person that would work on my bike...Jim at Metal Dragon.  He's a member here and has done work for several members.  He's in Northern CA though, but it might be worth the trip up there.  If I was wanting motor work done, I'd be tempted to ship my bike to him and do a fly and ride back to Alabama.

[Cvostu]

Terry,, I like that idea.  If I had the time , I was thinking about shipping my bike to Rich (tif2) and letting him put the same stereo equipment on my bike that he has.  I like that idea too.  

[SDCVO]

Going to take your guys advice and check out Metal Dragon. Do you guys think I can get 130/130 from him without breaking the bank or losing reliability?

[Midnight Rider]

Going to take your guys advice and check out Metal Dragon. Do you guys think I can get 130/130 from him without breaking the bank or losing reliability?

I don't know what "breaking the bank" may mean to you, so can't answer that question.  Getting up to those kind of numbers...I personally would split the cases and do it all.  I do know this:  If Jim at Metal Dragon does the work, it'll be done right, and at a fair price because that's the kind of person he is.  If you do everything he advises to achieve your goals, you'll have a good running motor that will be tuned correctly.

Another viable option would be to purchase a 120R motor from Jim, have him do his thing to that motor before you even take the bike up there, then swap engines and either sell your 110 or keep it on a shelf to swap back if you ever sell the bike.

Either of those options would break my bank, but I'm old, retired, and on a fixed income.   

[Heatwave]

I don't know what "breaking the bank" may mean to you, so can't answer that question.  Getting up to those kind of numbers...I personally would split the cases and do it all.  I do know this:  If Jim at Metal Dragon does the work, it'll be done right, and at a fair price because that's the kind of person he is.  If you do everything he advises to achieve your goals, you'll have a good running motor that will be tuned correctly.

Another viable option would be to purchase a 120R motor from Jim, have him do his thing to that motor before you even take the bike up there, then swap engines and either sell your 110 or keep it on a shelf to swap back if you ever sell the bike.

Either of those options would break my bank, but I'm old, retired, and on a fixed income.   

You can meet your performance goals (and more) with the 120R but be prepared it will be a different color engine then your CVO 110 or the CVO tranny since I don't believe it's available in the 110 powder gray on the CVO bikes. Page 46 of the Screaming Eagle Pro Catalog http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Racing/US_SE13_Full.pdf  It's also worth noting that you can't even buy a 110 CVO engine from Harley through their Racing catalog.

[Unbalanced]

Going to take your guys advice and check out Metal Dragon. Do you guys think I can get 130/130 from him without breaking the bank or losing reliability?

SDCVO,

Out of what size motor?

I doubt you can get a 110 that far without being unreliable it isnt a walk in the park as it was said to be and if you go through the dynos on this site I dont think you will find any 110s that are 130/130 even using a happy dyno.   The 117 is  different story many builds out there at 130/130 and run great, or you can plunge in with a 120r and buy a black transmission if your motor/tranny is the slate colored and do it easily.   

[SDCVO]

It is a 110. What do you think is realistic?

[Unbalanced]

Realistic is 125 Tq and 120 hp out of a 110, but to not be disappointed i would shoot for 120/120 and anything over that is gravy.   Most wouldnt even feel the difference of 125 vs 120, but the key is getting the numbers where you ride not out in the ozone of the rpm band.  

Here is why i like the 120r, it has power everywhere and at stock compression of 10.5 to 1, will it last sure hope so 12k and counting without a lick of problems.   Note nothing is done to this 120r other than throttlebody/injectors and 2-1 exhaust and tune.

[sadunbar]

The best results I obtained with what I would consider to be a reliable 110 build was 120/122. 

My 120r, stock except for T Man 662-1 cams/S&S lifters and with a HPI 55mm throttle body is 135/135....

[Heatwave]

My 2010 CVO Ultra 110 with headwork, 58mmTB, 5.3gms/sec injectors, roller rockers, D&D Fatcat and Woods 408-6 cam is dynoed at 129/129 actual, 123/123SAE. I couldn't be more pleased with the performance and reliability and I have almost 25,000 miles on the build (30,000 on the bike). Just got back from a 2600 mile 2UP ride and the bike was flawless.

[SDCVO]

The biggest problem I am having is that I am currently getting over 120TQ (see attached dyno) with only a SERT and a set of Fatcats and over 100TQ at 2200 RPM's. I hate to spend a ton of money for only HP and possibly lose some "low end" grunt.. Thoughts?