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CVO Technical => Twin Cam => Topic started by: Sruth929 on February 08, 2020, 08:45:42 PM
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I know this is been posted to death but I can’t find the exact parts needed. I have a all stock 2014 CVO 110 with 15k miles and want to change the lifters with S&S lifters. What part numbers should I use? I believe I’ll pull the rockers and reuse the pushrods.
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Precision Tappets for 2017-19 M8 1999-17 big twins and 2000-19 XL Models
$224.95 on s&s web site
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May I suggest Hylift Johnsons made in USA with axle oiling and slow bleed design at 65% less?
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May I suggest Hylift Johnsons made in USA with axle oiling and slow bleed design at 65% less?
May I ask the advantages of using Johnson over S&S lifters and what is the recommended mileage change for both.
Just curious as I have changed out the lifters in my 110 quite a few years ago from the standard C to S&S lifters after all the lifter failures reported.
After changing to S&S I did notice the valve train is much quieter but still has the 2600-2800 rpm rattle but nowhere near as bad as it was with the standard C lifters.
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The Hylifts are a slow bleed design which helps with noise. They have axle oiling and I would be servicing these lifters at 25k intervals on a cvo. The 2600-2800 noise issue can be solved but takes a cam change. The stock cam has steep ramps. I recomend putting in rocker lockers while in there. I use them whenever I am in the top.
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HD, when you say service at 25K intervals for the Hylifts, what does that mean, pull and examine, repack bearings or replace? Replacing every 25K seems a bit excessive.
I have a 2015 CVO 110, with 21K miles so replacing the stock lifters is number 1 on my to do list.
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Those 110's have dual wound valve springs that are pretty stiff compared to some others. However do not make the same mistake I did and change to single wound behive AV&V springs. I broke a spring and had to rebuild my top end.
Because the springs are so stiff is one reason to swap out the lifters, and the ramp of those 255's like HD Street said.
The op asked about S&S so I showed him what S&S sells now, doesn't look like they sell standards and premiums now.
As for me I'm running Comp Cam's 850-4s in my 14 limited. (yes I've seen the video)
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HD, when you say service at 25K intervals for the Hylifts, what does that mean, pull and examine, repack bearings or replace? Replacing every 25K seems a bit excessive.
I have a 2015 CVO 110, with 21K miles so replacing the stock lifters is number 1 on my to do list.
If you were talking about any other vehicle you would be correct, a lifter replacement at 25k is almost unheard of these days. However, you are talking about a H-D CVO110 engine, many of which have had catastrophic failures at 10k to 15k miles. A lifter change at 15k to 20k is cheap insurance, compared to a $5k engine repair bill. If you want a longer term fix, you'll need to scrap the stock cams and valve springs.
JMHO - Jerry
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The stock springs are not "too stiff". They do have trouble controlling the stock cam and loft at the rpm stated. Reason is flex of pushrods, cam lobe design, and valve train weight. Lifters just get caught in the mix. Not the noise solution by itself.
I use a dual spring that is 140# seat with a 400# spring rate, .670 max lift.
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grc (Jerry) is spot on IMHO.
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As further evidence consider the 03-06 cvo 103. Same springs, pushrods, and lifters comparable. They did not eat lifters. Lofting a roller lifter murders any of them.
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As further evidence consider the 03-06 cvo 103. Same springs, pushrods, and lifters comparable. They did not eat lifters. Lofting a roller lifter murders any of them.
Please elaborate more. As I have a 2003 103".
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Well those cvo 103 heads have the same springs and similar valves to the 110 cvo head. They didnt burn through lifters.
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am i reading that 255 cams may cause trouble at 3000 rpm? i thought it was at high rpm that they caused trouble???
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Yes, the cams have very fast ramps. When cam is changed these lifter issues diminish with many grinds.
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Yes, the cams have very fast ramps. When cam is changed these lifter issues diminish with many grinds.
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How do the SE585 cams compare to the SE255 cams when it comes to lifters?
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They will run a little more quiet. They are all share the origin of Comp Cams. Some of their cams out of the Harley proprietary grinds have worked quite well for me including the TC3103
From a little higher level view why are we looking for the smoking gun always? This is a "system" of components. There are a number of parts and geometry cause the 110 and all twin cam valve trains to not be real happy. When I do a set of the heads, use my springs and protrusion settings plus a cam of my choice and pushrods that are not pole vaults they run quiet. Quiet is more than just an annoyance. The noise is a sign of poor geometry due to mismatched components among other things. The 110 would run quiet even with the latest harley lifters if the rest of the items are addressed. The lifters would also have an extended life as well.
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How does/would the TTS 150 compare to the TC3103...in a 110 application or even a 117?
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It makes more power and about the same torque, corrected compression and all other factors the same. The TC3103 is in the same class of cams as the Tman 590
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Thanks...So maybe a TC 3102 for more of a torque build?
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Exactly but keep eyes on the pipe choice. It is more influence than those cams compared.
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I've got almost 30K on my current SE Lifters and need to change them. I've been looking for a set of S&S lifters and in the past I had no problem finding them. It's now like pulling teeth to buy a set of lifters for the bike. S&S now only sells one lifter for Big Twins. In the past they sold two versions of their premium lifters (with and w/o HL2T).
When you go to their website and search for Lifters, you get 0 returns. You have to go through the Tappet search to get there. Additionally, in the past when I looked on their website they had great instruction sheets with their products. With their "new and improved" Item #: 330-0718 (Precision Tappets), there are no installation instructions.
So I've been to my favorite aftermarket web stores and none of them have S&S lifters for Big Twins (out of stock or they don't carry them), but Amazon has them.... you just have to roll the counterfeit dice and wonder if they will have any instructions with them. Reviews from Amazon about product quality are also dicey...
Also, I see that Hylift by Johnson is recommended, but they are not offered on the reputable websites either. Are there some online vendors that you all would suggest for purchase of S&S or Johnson Hylift lifters for a 2013 stock 110?
Thank you all for your help!
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I stock either of the lifters you mentioned.
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HD Performance,
That's a little help, but I don't know what to do with it.
Website, prices etc...?
Thanks!
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I stock either of the lifters you mentioned.
Don't mean to hijack your thread!
Don, are the S&S lifters the standard #33-5350?
If so how do we order them?
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HD Performance,
That's a little help, but I don't know what to do with it.
Website, prices etc...?
Thanks!
I found these guys who have a modified lifter for a 110 ..... https://www.amsmotomachine.com/index.php/top-harley-parts
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Just PM me.
Or Email info@hdstreetperformance.com
S&S has discontinued both the "standards" and "premiums" as far as I know
They replaced them with 330-0718, Precision Tappets
No options for limited travel lifters.
See Here
https://view.publitas.com/ss-cycle/510-0585-s-s-dealer-catalog-late-model-parts-accessories-for-1999-and-later-models/page/92-93
My opinion, the hylift toplines are equal or better and cost ~$50 less.
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My 07 CUSE has HD B's in the Jim's 131 with 17k. Looking for advise on replacement lifters.
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S&S or Topline Hylift. Both are good, the Hylift being considerably less $ plus have axle oiling.
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Just PM me.
Or Email info@hdstreetperformance.com
S&S has discontinued both the "standards" and "premiums" as far as I know
They replaced them with 330-0718, Precision Tappets
No options for limited travel lifters.
See Here
https://view.publitas.com/ss-cycle/510-0585-s-s-dealer-catalog-late-model-parts-accessories-for-1999-and-later-models/page/92-93
My opinion, the hylift toplines are equal or better and cost ~$50 less.
Thanks for the help,
I just went ahead and put in some Feuling Lifters and S&S Quickie Pushrods. They will get me through the next 25K, and probably before then I'm going to do a different cam that isn't so killer on lifters.
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Just a recap of the lifters- I bought S&S lifters and changed them out. I only had a small mark/ line on one front cylinder lifter at 15000 miles. It all went well, was going to do the rocker lockers rockers but I had almost no play in the rocker arms so I didn’t do them. It was a big relief to know that I’m good to go for a while. I also fixed my clutch lever engagement. The clutch engaged at the end of the travel which made it hard to handle when needing to slip the clutch. I would struggle sometimes on a hill or incline. But a 12 dollar part fixed the clutch travel. The 2019 and newer touring bikes have a new spacer ring that is slightly thicker so it engages sooner. The part number is 37000295. Simple fix for a aggravating problem.
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