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[STICKMAN]

 :confused5:I have an 02 SERK with a 95 incher. I just had top end work done (heads,pistons,gear drive cams) After getting the bike back I noticed a loud clunking that sounds like it's coming from the front of the primary after the motor is warm. My first thought was the compensator nut. So I removed it, cleaned the threads on the nut and the shaft and applied lots of red loc-tite. The sound is still there. The Mechanic never worked on the primary side of the bike and it didn't make the sound when I dropped it off. Is there any way something could be happening on the cam side and the sound is radiating to the other side? I used a stethoscope and it sure sounds like the front of the primary. Is there anything else that sounds like a loose compensator nut?

[REGGAB]

:confused5:I have an 02 SERK with a 95 incher. I just had top end work done (heads,pistons,gear drive cams) After getting the bike back I noticed a loud clunking that sounds like it's coming from the front of the primary after the motor is warm. My first thought was the compensator nut. So I removed it, cleaned the threads on the nut and the shaft and applied lots of red loc-tite. The sound is still there. The Mechanic never worked on the primary side of the bike and it didn't make the sound when I dropped it off. Is there any way something could be happening on the cam side and the sound is radiating to the other side? I used a stethoscope and it sure sounds like the front of the primary. Is there anything else that sounds like a loose compensator nut?

Comp nut would've been my first guess too.  Please keep us posted once you get this one figured out.  Interesting.

[Talon]

I assume the primary drive chain tension looked ok when you were in there?

When does it clunk? When you get on it, let off, or just intermittent?
I would think if it came from the cam side you would hear it there too. Does it do it at idle? If so I'd do the old screw driver to the ear, or a stethascope to isolate the area, checking both sides.

[STICKMAN]

It makes the sound only when it reaches full operating temp (195-210) It does it at idle sometimes but more often when you roll just off of idle. I also hear it at about 2000 rpm. At 3000 it either goes away or it so fast that you can't hear it. When I re-tourqued the comp nut the chain looked like it was very close to the stator. The fact that it only does it when it is hot comfuses me because if it was a bad comp spring inside the not I would think it would "rattle" all the time/???

What's the best way to check chain alignment? I used a stethoscope and the sound appears to be right at the comp nut.

Thanks for the help keep em coming I m lost

Oh and Talon, I installed a auto chain adjuster about a year ago and it seems to be working fine. Although the Mechanic at Reno HD felt it and thought it was a little tight.

[REGGAB]

It makes the sound only when it reaches full operating temp (195-210) It does it at idle sometimes but more often when you roll just off of idle. I also hear it at about 2000 rpm. At 3000 it either goes away or it so fast that you can't hear it. When I re-tourqued the comp nut the chain looked like it was very close to the stator. The fact that it only does it when it is hot comfuses me because if it was a bad comp spring inside the not I would think it would "rattle" all the time/???

What's the best way to check chain alignment? I used a stethoscope and the sound appears to be right at the comp nut.

Thanks for the help keep em coming I m lost

Oh and Talon, I installed a auto chain adjuster about a year ago and it seems to be working fine. Although the Mechanic at Reno HD felt it and thought it was a little tight.

I'm not real smart on this stuff, but that would tell me to give the entire compensator area a good relook.  Isn't there a Ferguson type cam in there?  It might not be articulating smoothly and instead of gradually moving, it is slamming into position.  I've seen this happen on aircraft weaponry, and the clunk could be heard over round discharge.  JMHO.  Something to think about, especially since the stethoscope indicates the comp area as troublesome.

[hd-dude]

Did you pull the rotor and check the stator to see that it was tight? I have a bike in the shop now that had a primary noise that turn out to be just that. Unfortunately the customer kept on riding it and the stator broke loose from the engine case shearing the bolts off in the case. There are only 4 #10 bolts that hold the stator on so if its loose its only a matter of time before it breaks away.......

[STICKMAN]

Dude, does the inner primary cover have to come off to check the stator?

[Talon]

No just the outer cover, primary chain, and the compansating sprocket. Then the rotor needs to be pulled with a puller. Not sure if you can get to the mounting torx screws thru the holes in the rotor, but my buddy pulled his off. I think it's best, if loose they'll need to come out and put some Loctite on them, they had that grey locking stuff on them from the factory. I looked it up, they should be torqued to 55-75 in-lb.

[hd-dude]

No just the outer cover, primary chain, and the compansating sprocket. Then the rotor needs to be pulled with a puller. Not sure if you can get to the mounting torx screws thru the holes in the rotor, but my buddy pulled his off. I think it's best, if loose they'll need to come out and put some Loctite on them, they had that grey locking stuff on them from the factory. I looked it up, they should be torqued to 55-75 in-lb.