Also here are some other instructions which I found helpful in addressing how one is to "adjust one"s clutch properly".
The Factory Service Manual on this issue can leave you sratching your head, so these instructions @ least for me helped to clarify the procedure a bit more:
If possible, try the following adjustment procedure first. The procedure was recommended by Hippo from HTT in previous threads:
1. Loosen the clutch CABLE jam nut and using the adjuster, remove ALL slack (zero clearance between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket) in the cable.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack PUSHROD adjuster screw.
The bottom line is that during #1 and #2 what you do is fully collapse the cable adjuster on the cable sleeve while attempting to pull the cable sleeve away from the perch at the lever.
3. Pull in the clutch lever, it should just touch or be close to touching the handle bars. If it does not touch the bars, back out the PUSHROD adjuster screw at the clutch pack while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever until it just touches the bars.
4. When the clutch lever just touches the handle bar, turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw while keeping a slight pressure on the clutch lever. When you turn IN the PUSHROD adjuster screw, it will start to pull the lever OFF the handle bars. Back the PUSHROD adjuster screw OUT until the lever returns to just touching the handle bars. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the PUSHROD adjuster screw out 1/2 to 1 turn and torque the lock nut to 6-10 ft-lbs (96 in-lbs).
5. Using the CABLE adjuster, adjust the clutch cable to 1/16-1/8 inch gap between the clutch cable ferrule and the clutch lever bracket and secure it with the jam nut.
Sometimes when new cables are used or if the mechanism is worn, it is possible to push the "hook" the end of the cable engages to over center in the housing. This sometimes may correct itself with above, and sometimes this can be checked/corrected thru the gearbox oil fill hole. It may also be possible, if the center position of the ball and ramp was lost that above procedure may have to be done more then once. Picture in your mind that you are playing the two adjustments against each other in order to perfectly center the ball and ramp mechanism so as to achieve the max disengagement travel while still having correct free play at one and the other.
If the clutch still does not function properly, verify the following: cable lubed, routed, connected and ball and ramp assembled properly.
I might also add, that after I had thought I successfully adjusted my clutch cable with the bike still on my bike stand, I turned the ignition key to on, (lights turned on and instrument panel lit up but NO "N" neutral light lit up.....I turned the key off....and sat there....pondering....back to the drawing board....it was then that I incorporated the above instructions from HIPPO which really seemed to clarify what was trying to be accomplished......another 45 minutes later....after everything was "readjusted" I turned the key back on and was greeted with the "N" neutral light being lit...."success"....
After the "neutral" light appeared on my dash, I then put fluids in for both the primary and the transmission.
Now here is something I would also suggest.....while keeping the bike on the lift with the rear tire free from the ground......I started the bike, and ran through all of the gears along with putting it in "neutral" to make sure while it was on the stand that I had no "drag" while the clutch was engaged through with each gear....essentially I put it into 1st gear while engaging the clutch lever, then releasing the clutch lever I would give the bike a bit of the throttle and watch the rear wheel move signifying it was indeed in gear, then I would engage the clutch, take my foot and stop the motion of the rear wheel and while the clutch was still engaged make sure that once I stopped the rear tire that it didn't start moving again.....then I would release the clutch again and resulting in the rear wheel moving once again and then would move to 2nd gear etc following the same procedure through 5th gear and then from 5th gear back down to 1st gear, then back to "neutral" to make sure it would engage to "neutral" smoothly....I did all of this in about 90 seconds of running the bike on the lift....then I felt comfortable it was ready for a "test" run.....locating "Neutral" has never been so so so smooth....everything works wonderfully....So I would suggest doing this while the bike is on a lift to make sure there is no "drag" occuring on your clutch, thus confirming that everything is working properly. Once this is confirmed then you are prepared to take it for your first "test" ride.
Regards,
Tim
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Topic: Clutch Cable Adjustment? (Read 16218 times)