Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Heatwave]

If you're interested in making your TP detachable on a 2010 SEUC, there's some changes to the audio wiring harness you'll want to know about. There is no overlay harness on the new SEUC as there was in the past. In what was probably an effort to save costs, HD made the 2010 SEUC with a single wiring harness to the rear amp and speakers. There is no longer an option to disconnect the rear amp and then plug the rear speakers into the stock Ultra speaker harness....there is no stock audio harness on the 2010 SEUC.

I have Biketronics Titan amp and Titan XL speakers installed on my 2010 SE Ultra. The bike has the factory rear speakers and HK amp. The change for 2010 is that there's no rear speaker wiring from the radio's 35 pin connector to the rear speakers (or to the rear amp) on a 2010 SE Ultra. Essentially there are only 2 ways to power the rear speakers.

1) Maintain the rear amp plugged into the large 23 pin connector under the seat. The inputs to the rear amp must come from the radio's front speaker outputs. With the rear amp plugged into the harness and the inputs to the amp powered by the radio's front speaker outputs, there will be full functionality of the rear speakers and fader on a 2010 SEUC (essentially the factory setup). These are the same radio outputs that I used to connect the Biketronics transformer and Titan amp for powering my front speakers.

Both the Titan amp and the rear factory HK amp are being driven off the radio's front speaker outputs. The approach maintains the fader for the rear speakers however the front speakers are always powered and are not affected by the fader. The audio from this set-up is absolutely fantastic.

BTW when the rear amp is connected, the fader is actually managed by the rear amp not the radio.

The problem with this approach is where to place the rear amp if you want to have a detachable tourpak. It will not fit under the new detachable TP bracket. Trust me....I tried and it won't, even after modifying the factory bracket on the amp. There's just not enough space over the fender and in front of the license plate. (If you moved the license plate below the tailight, it might work).

The only other location is to place the amp in the right saddlebag. This actually works OK as the connector is plenty long enough and actually flattens out enough for the lid to latch without having to modify the saddlebag. My concern with this approach is how much heat the rear amp puts out on a long trip, particularly if the bag is full of other stuff. I'll be testing this approach on an upcoming long trip I have planned. If the saddlebag gets overly hot, I should be able to turn the rear speakers off with the fairing switch or the fader.

2) The other alternative to powering the rear speakers is to use the blank pins (RR+=1, LR+=2, RR-=24, LR-=25) in the radio's 35 pin connector plug that are the radio's rear outputs. You would then need to run new wires from the radio to the rear speakers and then disconnect the rear amp altogether. This will leave the rear speakers powered by the radio's amp. Less power but less connections when removing or adding the TP and no heat in the saddlebag. I'm working with Iron Cross Audio in NJ to see if this wiring will still enable full functionality of the radio's fader, AVC etc.

Hopefully this information is helpful to others.

[Para Bellum]

Thanks for the write-up and info.  I'll follow your future posts to see what happens.

[mikec@data4.ca]

would you happen to have the front L&R speaker pin out? I know where the rears are located but not the fronts.

[1abastarsmda]

There is another way to wire this setup.  You can also run the rear speakers from the Biketronics amp.  Connect the front and rear speakers in parallel from the Biketronics amp.  Disconnect only the speaker wires on the rear speakers and connect your new speaker wires to the rear speakers.  Then, you still have your rear speaker pod controls intact, as you still have everything connected to the rear amp, just nothing going from the amp to the speakers themselves.  Under the seat, make some quick disconnects on the 4 new speaker wires running to the rear and you will be able to still pull your tourpak off when you want.  I haven't actually done this yet, but it seems to make sense, other than I would think this would cause the loss of a fader control.  If I do it, I will use the same 6.5" speakers in the rear that I have in the front.  To do that, you would need an adaptor to put the 6.5" speakers in the rear pod.  I have only found them from one supplier at this point...http://www.vtwinaudio.com/Tour_Pak_6_5_speaker_adapter_p/vttp6.5.htm    If anybody sees any flaws in my reasoning, please let me know before I decide to go forward with this idea...but I'm not removing my tourpak.