Topic: Rust in Bolts (Read 11074 times)

RPR50 · « **on:** March 23, 2009, 07:45:23 PM »

I've noticed some rust forming in the socket heads of bolts on my Springer. Thoughts on how to get rid of it? Thanks.

admccrea · « **Reply #1 on:** March 23, 2009, 08:02:10 PM »

Try a little WD40 and a Q-tip. after you get it clean, put a little clear nail polish in the hole.

SCRM-R · « **Reply #2 on:** March 23, 2009, 08:04:36 PM »

I don't know of a way to get the rust out, but you can color it. Get a silver Sharpie (writes on anything) pen, stick it down in there and color the inside of the socket head bolts. Cheap fix, works like a charm, and lasts for a long time too. I've been using the Sharpie in this way since they came out with the silver one. Use it on the ones that haven't rusted yet too...seems to work as a preventative.

MUFFMAN · « **Reply #3 on:** March 25, 2009, 04:57:57 AM »

I use CLR on a Q tip. I've got hot toppers in most of the allen holes now.

BMF-110 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 25, 2009, 07:17:54 AM »

What a good point to bring up RPR50, Dealt with my Bad-Boy Springer since 97, now the FXSTSSE3,The advice from all here is awesome, I've tried all the above and found the sharpie marker to work well also the 'Q' tip WD-40 clean up deal is the easiest.. Never could get the clear polish to last long over the cleaned area though.. I think over the countless "Spring" cleaning hours ( ya spring finally) I've come to the realization that a thorough WD-40 cleanup followed by a heavy coating of a corrosion prevenative ( such as s-100) and a shiny chrome $2.00 hot topper really does the trick !!

porthole · « **Reply #5 on:** March 25, 2009, 12:59:31 PM »

HD bolt covers or Hot Toppers.
I like the HD pieces because they can be reused indefinitely.

HD also has Allen head plugs, just cover the hole, which may be of interest to you.

RPR50 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 26, 2009, 06:06:30 AM »

Thanks, guys. I'll try your suggestions. Most of the rust is in the Allen head bolts.

spydglide · « **Reply #7 on:** March 26, 2009, 08:04:03 PM »

Change all to Polished Stainless and you can forgetaboutit.

har! spyder

REGGAB · « **Reply #8 on:** March 26, 2009, 11:35:18 PM »

Breakfree CLP followed by alcohol to dry the CLP followed by Corrosion prevention compound like Corrosion-X. Works great.

BIGDOG · « **Reply #9 on:** April 05, 2009, 09:05:24 PM »

Kuryakyn Hot Spots do the trick

gordy · « **Reply #10 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:55:49 PM »

Stainless fasteners from Alloyboltz-not cheap but good.

gordy · « **Reply #11 on:** April 14, 2009, 11:58:21 PM »

Even put stainless in the rotors and calipers. See the difference. Yes I changed the rest of them after taking this pic.LOL

spydglide · « **Reply #12 on:** April 15, 2009, 12:27:19 AM »

Quote from: gordy on April 14, 2009, 11:55:49 PM

Stainless fasteners from Alloyboltz-not cheap but good.

But they are reasonably priced for polished stainless, esp. if you go ahead and purchase one of their 'kits' to cover most of the bike's fasteners. spyder

LarryB · « **Reply #13 on:** April 15, 2009, 06:07:33 AM »

I got the whole Kit from Hottoppers. have used them on 3 bikes, and if you trade in, you can remove and re-use. I use a pair of needle nose pliers that I dipped the ends with that rubber coating so as not to scratch them.

bogman · « **Reply #14 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:29:39 AM »

Incredible that when you buy what is supposed to be a "top of the range Harley" you have to contend with rust issues

There's not a sign of corrosion on my K1200r Beemer and thats after 30,000 miles

My old Night Rod Special was a disgrace when it came to rust

spydglide · « **Reply #15 on:** April 15, 2009, 07:47:11 AM »

Quote from: bogman on April 15, 2009, 07:29:39 AM

Incredible that when you buy what is supposed to be a "top of the range Harley" you have to contend with rust issues

There's not a sign of corrosion on my K1200r Beemer and thats after 30,000 miles

My old Night Rod Special was a disgrace when it came to rust

Don't forget they're called "American Iron" for a reason.

har! spyder

Ken1956 · « **Reply #16 on:** June 03, 2010, 02:25:15 PM »

Quote from: LarryB on April 15, 2009, 06:07:33 AM

I got the whole Kit from Hottoppers. have used them on 3 bikes, and if you trade in, you can remove and re-use. I use a pair of needle nose pliers that I dipped the ends with that rubber coating so as not to scratch them.

Speaking of that rubber coating, I wonder if you could dip the tool in that and avoid causing the rust in the first place? I guess the other side of the coin is whether it would fit the bolt after doing that.

How does the MoCo put in chrome fasteners and not cause them to rust? Maybe they have some sort of hard rubber tools?? Anyone know?

ice6900 · « **Reply #17 on:** June 03, 2010, 02:33:09 PM »

Quote from: admccrea on March 23, 2009, 08:02:10 PM

Try a little WD40 and a Q-tip. after you get it clean, put a little clear nail polish in the hole.

I fully endorse this post and add the HOT TOPPERs

TN · « **Reply #18 on:** June 03, 2010, 02:36:26 PM »

Quote from: groucho56 on June 03, 2010, 02:25:15 PM

Speaking of that rubber coating, I wonder if you could dip the tool in that and avoid causing the rust in the first place? I guess the other side of the coin is whether it would fit the bolt after doing that.

How does the MoCo put in chrome fasteners and not cause them to rust? Maybe they have some sort of hard rubber tools?? Anyone know?

chromed tools.

TN

Ken1956 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 03, 2010, 02:53:58 PM »

Chromed tools... Ha!

That was supposed to be a (somewhat) serious question.

moscooter · « **Reply #20 on:** June 03, 2010, 03:28:31 PM »

"followed by a heavy coating of a corrosion prevenative ( such as s-100) "

While I agree with the Q-tip and clear fingernail polish, etc. here, I'm having problems with the above portion of a posting here.

I thought S-100 was the spray on stuff to clean your bike which you then RINSE OFF

Notice I capitalized (rinse off), if you leave that stuff on your bike longer than just a few minutes, you will then find out quickly about "corrosion".............So, how one can call it a "corrosion preventative" is beyond me.

110tHunDer · « **Reply #21 on:** June 03, 2010, 03:55:49 PM »

http://www.s100.com/s100_cp.htm

grc · « **Reply #22 on:** June 03, 2010, 04:04:33 PM »

Quote from: groucho56 on June 03, 2010, 02:53:58 PM

Chromed tools... Ha!

That was supposed to be a (somewhat) serious question.

The plain and simple answer is that the chrome and/or standard fasteners that Harley installs also rust. I've had plenty of fasteners that developed visible rust shortly after purchasing the bike, long before I had a chance to butcher anything.

Tools that fit properly will help, and some designs are more forgiving as well. For instance, on a socket head bolt, it helps if the bit has slightly rounded edges versus sharp edges so that the force is spread out on the flats. Quite often the $10 bit will fit better and be more likely to have radiused edges than the $1 bit over at Harbor Freight.

Jerry

Chains · « **Reply #23 on:** June 03, 2010, 04:09:27 PM »

Quote from: SCRM-R on March 23, 2009, 08:04:36 PM

I don't know of a way to get the rust out, but you can color it. Get a silver Sharpie (writes on anything) pen, stick it down in there and color the inside of the socket head bolts. Cheap fix, works like a charm, and lasts for a long time too. I've been using the Sharpie in this way since they came out with the silver one. Use it on the ones that haven't rusted yet too...seems to work as a preventative.

X2 been doing it that way for years.

spydglide · « **Reply #24 on:** June 03, 2010, 04:11:35 PM »

I'm telling you.....'polished stainless' is the only way to go to forgitabout the rust.

spyder

moscooter · « **Reply #25 on:** June 03, 2010, 06:59:23 PM »

103T....Thanks, you have cleared up my confusion. Did not know that they made a separate product for corrossion protection.

I just recall a buddy that sprayed down his Harley with S-100 cleaner........then a neighbor came by and the two of them got into a chat that lasted 30-40 minutes or more. He said that then he came back to the bike and hosed it off. Result was corroded rocker box covers and those bolts holding it in place as well as other areas.

JohnT. · « **Reply #26 on:** June 08, 2010, 01:59:52 PM »

The best stuff I have found is an item called "Corrosion Block", mainly designed for sporting equipment,(fishing reels, guns, etc.) this stuff works great on minor surface rust that has developed in fastener head crevices, spray it on, use an old toothbrush to agitate, rust or corrosion will disappear, prevents corrosion from re-occuring if applied whenever you detail your bike. Try it out for yourself, and I think you'll find that it works very well. I used this stuff exclusively for years on all my saltwater reels when I lived in Honolulu, Hawaii.. JohnT.

Screamin · « **Reply #27 on:** June 09, 2010, 08:03:22 AM »

Quote from: JohnT. on June 08, 2010, 01:59:52 PM

The best stuff I have found is an item called "Corrosion Block", mainly designed for sporting equipment,(fishing reels, guns, etc.) this stuff works great on minor surface rust that has developed in fastener head crevices, spray it on, use an old toothbrush to agitate, rust or corrosion will disappear, prevents corrosion from re-occuring if applied whenever you detail your bike. Try it out for yourself, and I think you'll find that it works very well. I used this stuff exclusively for years on all my saltwater reels when I lived in Honolulu, Hawaii.. JohnT.

Is this the stuff? http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm

JohnT. · « **Reply #28 on:** June 09, 2010, 03:08:17 PM »

Correct

screem · « **Reply #29 on:** June 17, 2010, 07:53:56 AM »

I have used Testors aluminum modelers paint and a small artists brush for years...lasts a couple years inside allen socket bolts...I also use the same aluminum paint on the bolts that hang down from the exhaust when they start to get unsitely

LarryB · « **Reply #30 on:** June 17, 2010, 11:14:01 AM »

no problem with rust here

moscooter · « **Reply #31 on:** June 17, 2010, 11:45:36 AM »

That dude has several problems.........one of which would be his own safety. Regardless of whether or not those gems are real or fake, some (other) whako might think they are valuable and take him out just to cash in on the glitter in his mouth.

Highjagger · « **Reply #32 on:** June 18, 2010, 12:54:51 AM »

So which is the better Alloyboltz or Hottoppers ?
Which kit do i have to use for the SERG to exchange as much as possible (without being a mechanic) ?
Can i replace them one after the other ? Just stock one out and then new stainless one in ( do i need the torque numbers for the ss-ones)?

LarryB · « **Reply #33 on:** June 18, 2010, 07:58:11 AM »

Klaus, if you're going to change out the bolts to alloy or SS, then yes it's one out, one in and you do need to torque them. For Hottoppers, much easier. Just follow directions., but you may need a translator. The kit runs about $380 plus you'll need a can of silicone, it's a special stuff. I have an acct with them.

spydglide · « **Reply #34 on:** June 18, 2010, 08:44:44 AM »

Quote from: Highjagger on June 18, 2010, 12:54:51 AM

So which is the better Alloyboltz or Hottoppers ?
Which kit do i have to use for the SERG to exchange as much as possible (without being a mechanic) ?
Can i replace them one after the other ? Just stock one out and then new stainless one in ( do i need the torque numbers for the ss-ones)?

Do yourself a favor and go the SS fastener route instead of the 'covers'. Easy to install, last forever, look very good, never have to replace when doing any 'service', and the cost is virtually the same if you start out with a 'kit' from Alloyboltz or Diamond fasteners (headquartered in Daytona, Fla.) Gives the bike the completed/finished look that should have been done from the 'git-go'.

JMHO.

spyder

Highjagger · « **Reply #35 on:** June 18, 2010, 11:00:17 AM »

I do not want just to cover the stock bolts , i do want to replace them with stainless steel ones .
So there are 3 brands ?
alloyboltz - hottoppers-diamond fasteners ?

Or do the hottoppers just covers ?
Or do you cover the replaced stock bolt with a stainless steel one and cover it with a chrome cap ? ( then you do need the silicone to fix the cover ? )

spydglide · « **Reply #36 on:** June 18, 2010, 11:13:22 AM »

Quote from: Highjagger on June 18, 2010, 11:00:17 AM

I do not want just to cover the stock bolts , i do want to replace them with stainless steel ones .
So there are 3 brands ?
alloyboltz - hottoppers-diamond fasteners ?

Or do the hottoppers just covers ?
Or do you cover the replaced stock bolt with a stainless steel one and cover it with a chrome cap ? ( then you do need the silicone to fix the cover ? )

No, the Hottoppers are just covers for the heads of the fasteners as are the HD fastener chrome covers. Diamond Engineering (www.depss.com) phone: 386-677-9093 and Alloyboltz are the two suppliers that I have utilized in purchasing Stainless fasteners for my scooters, and they both were good products and easy to work with.(both have 'kits' and individual fasteners available)....I'd recommend you go with either of those. spyder

Highjagger · « **Reply #37 on:** June 19, 2010, 01:08:53 AM »

Aha . thxs.

fatboy se · « **Reply #38 on:** August 22, 2010, 10:31:25 PM »

First of all you have to get rid of the rust,WD40 will leave an oil residue. I use wheel cleaning acid and a Q tip,then a Q tip and bright aluminum paint. Lasts a long time.

Chains · « **Reply #39 on:** August 22, 2010, 10:38:28 PM »

Quote from: screem on June 17, 2010, 07:53:56 AM

I have used Testors aluminum modelers paint and a small artists brush for years...lasts a couple years inside allen socket bolts...I also use the same aluminum paint on the bolts that hang down from the exhaust when they start to get unsitely

Same here, being doing it for years, beats all the other crap and the cost of converting to Stainless.

DavidB · « **Reply #40 on:** August 23, 2010, 11:45:10 AM »

http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp

Electrolysis

It works

Just hook it up corectly

cappoman · « **Reply #41 on:** October 15, 2010, 09:57:48 PM »

Noticed a bit of corrosion in Left & Right passenger foot pad mounting hole last night when I went to move them. Sprayed WD40 on bolts on new holes and moved the plastic plug into the previous hole. Would have been nice if MOCO had placed the plastics plugs in BOTH vacant holes on the 2011 CVO RG Ultra instead of just one.

mattm · « **Reply #42 on:** October 18, 2010, 06:26:31 PM »

I found a product sold in boating stores called rust streak remover. A bit of that on a q-tip and the bolt is clean. I follow that up with a small dab of clear nail polish. Works great! You just have to reapply the nail polish when you R/I the bolt for any reason.

Author Topic: Rust in Bolts (Read 11074 times)

admccrea

REGGAB