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CVO Technical => Wheels/Tires/Suspension/Brakes => Topic started by: bakon on April 19, 2018, 05:58:15 PM
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2014 cvo limited and tired of my right foot being stuck under the brake pedal and the goofy movement to lift foot and activate. What are you using? Heard one company folded. Thanks.
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EZ Brake, Soft Brake and Kuryakyn all make acceptable products. Your choice. Use the search function here for various discussions. The search function is your friend.
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I found out that the "extended" foot brake pedal in the Kuryakyn cat is the same one that is on the CVO Ultra....
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The water cooled lowers don't allow too many to fit. I believe the Kury is close to stock also. Saw it last year at a rally. The bikes without lowers have a longer lever available.
Easy or soft went out of business I believe.
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EZ Brake seems to have gone belly up. I just did a quick search and the .com website seemed to go nowhere. Damn shame as I have theirs and like it.
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I changed the foot pad using a smaller one from a dyna and extended floorboard 3/4" Made a big difference.
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I put on EZ-Brake Lever EZB-14C-B. It is great. I put some comments here on about it. I didn't know they went out of business. Maybe some are available on e-bay or some place like that.
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I changed the foot pad using a smaller one from a dyna and extended floorboard 3/4" Made a big difference.
Did the same thing, Grim.
I used the Kury floorboard extending kit, took a Dremel grinding wheel to the end section of the stock brake lever and installed the matching Dyna pad (about half the size of the stock behemoth). I had looked into installing the EZ brake and even bought a used one from a member here. Looking at what it was going to take to access/remove/install that made me investigate this another option....which I believe works much better for me. That smaller brake pad alone was worth the effort...much more room on the floorboard and along with the 3/4" wider boards, my heal sits on much more floorboard real estate when I'm using my highway pegs. I have a small foot but even so, that stock brake foot pad was always in the way, specially when using the rear brake.
I had posted pictures last year on this mod but can't find them on my computer. No worries, I rode in today so took another picture with smaller foot brake pad and extension. You can see just how much more room this gives along with the easier rear brake access.
I'm not bad-mouthing the EZ brake option here, bakon, but I was looking at having to remove the entire exhaust system just so I could get to the stock mount and install that on my '15. This other option was much easier to digest and I got to grind on something... ;D
Good luck with whatever direction you decide... :2vrolijk_21:
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Did the same thing, Grim.
I used the Kury floorboard extending kit, took a Dremel grinding wheel to the end section of the stock brake lever and installed the matching Dyna pad (about half the size of the stock behemoth). I had looked into installing the EZ brake and even bought a used one from a member here. Looking at what it was going to take to access/remove/install that made me investigate this another option....which I believe works much better for me. That smaller brake pad alone was worth the effort...much more room on the floorboard and along with the 3/4" wider boards, my heal sits on much more floorboard real estate when I'm using my highway pegs. I have a small foot but even so, that stock brake foot pad was always in the way, specially when using the rear brake.
I had posted pictures last year on this mod but can't find them on my computer. No worries, I rode in today so took another picture with smaller foot brake pad and extension. You can see just how much more room this gives along with the easier rear brake access.
I'm not bad-mouthing the EZ brake option here, bakon, but I was looking at having to remove the entire exhaust system just so I could get to the stock mount and install that on my '15. This other option was much easier to digest and I got to grind on something... ;D
Good luck with whatever direction you decide... :2vrolijk_21:
I got the idea from you Haird. Thanks
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I got the idea from you Haird. Thanks
Well how 'bout dat....glad to have been of some help....there's a first time for everything I'ma guessin'...... :huepfenjump3: ;D :2vrolijk_21:
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Well I can say I definitely would not recommend SoftBrake. Bought one for my '17 CVO Limited which had the footboard extenders. He said I would need the model with additional offset to work with the extended footboards. Once installed I absolutely hated it! It was so low to the footboard and it took up so much room that half the footboard was not usable . . . and it extended so far outboard that I couldn't rest my heel on the footboard on my toe on the highway peg which I like to do.
Like others have noted E-Z Brake seems to have gone out of business - again. Had the E-Z brake on my '07 CVO Ultra and it was great but could not find one now. So last week I purchased the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal and it is great. Sits farther forward and lower than stock so I don't have to lift my entire foot to get on it. And it is inboard enough that resting my heel on the footboard and toe on the highway peg works just fine.
Like Haird said it is a pia to change out but well worth the effort.
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Did the same thing, Grim.
I used the Kury floorboard extending kit, took a Dremel grinding wheel to the end section of the stock brake lever and installed the matching Dyna pad (about half the size of the stock behemoth). I had looked into installing the EZ brake and even bought a used one from a member here. Looking at what it was going to take to access/remove/install that made me investigate this another option....which I believe works much better for me. That smaller brake pad alone was worth the effort...much more room on the floorboard and along with the 3/4" wider boards, my heal sits on much more floorboard real estate when I'm using my highway pegs. I have a small foot but even so, that stock brake foot pad was always in the way, specially when using the rear brake.
I had posted pictures last year on this mod but can't find them on my computer. No worries, I rode in today so took another picture with smaller foot brake pad and extension. You can see just how much more room this gives along with the easier rear brake access.
I'm not bad-mouthing the EZ brake option here, bakon, but I was looking at having to remove the entire exhaust system just so I could get to the stock mount and install that on my '15. This other option was much easier to digest and I got to grind on something... ;D
Good luck with whatever direction you decide... :2vrolijk_21:
Haird I don't know if you have the stock header pipe but if you do you can change the brake pedal without removing it. It is tight - real tight but doable. I followed the Kury instructions and removed the right footboard and loosened the front footboard mount so it could drop down. Removed the bolts from the master cylinder and from the engine guard and loosened the top bolt on the engine guard so it could swing a bit forward to allow the master cylinder to move forward a bit. Getting the cotter key out was the most difficult because it is so hard to see and access. But with a light from above, a dental type mirror and a bent needle nose pliers I got 'er done!
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Haird I don't know if you have the stock header pipe but if you do you can change the brake pedal without removing it. It is tight - real tight but doable. I followed the Kury instructions and removed the right footboard and loosened the front footboard mount so it could drop down. Removed the bolts from the master cylinder and from the engine guard and loosened the top bolt on the engine guard so it could swing a bit forward to allow the master cylinder to move forward a bit. Getting the cotter key out was the most difficult because it is so hard to see and access. But with a light from above, a dental type mirror and a bent needle nose pliers I got 'er done!
I'm one to find ways to work around the instructions when I see a better way (which is a kind way of saying I don't read the instructions.... :) ) but I didn't see any possible way of getting to the removal of the stock lever without loosening the exhaust pipe and basically removing it for all intent and purposes. No way I could see on mine to get to the point of cotter removal and/or master cylinder removal. I figgled, foddled and farted just about every way possible and gave up. I was going to install the floorboard extensions anyway but had contemplated the smaller brake peddle foot pad for a few months and gave that a try. I did devise a cover so when I was grinding the brake lever so the smaller pad would fit, the dust/soot/metal shavings would be confined and not go willy-nilly all over the bike.
I'm glad you are pleased with your choice of the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal.... ;D
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I'm one to find ways to work around the instructions when I see a better way (which is a kind way of saying I don't read the instructions.... :) ) but I didn't see any possible way of getting to the removal of the stock lever without loosening the exhaust pipe and basically removing it for all intent and purposes. No way I could see on mine to get to the point of cotter removal and/or master cylinder removal. I figgled, foddled and farted just about every way possible and gave up. I was going to install the floorboard extensions anyway but had contemplated the smaller brake peddle foot pad for a few months and gave that a try. I did devise a cover so when I was grinding the brake lever so the smaller pad would fit, the dust/soot/metal shavings would be confined and not go willy-nilly all over the bike.
I'm glad you are pleased with your choice of the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal.... ;D
Harid, were you or are you a plumber? Just kidding as I don't think you are . . . and no offense to anyone on the site who may be but your statement about instructions made me think back on previous experiences.
In the late 70s up to the early 90s I was part owner in a manufacturing company that made plumbing specialty products. We noticed that our plumbing contractor customers seemed to have a creed of sorts:
Open the box and throw away the instructions.
If it won't fit force it.
If tight is good tighter is better.
And it it doesn't work or breaks blame it on the product being defective.
;D
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Going to give the kury a try after the comments from ultrafxr. Good review of all on his part.
Will update once in.
Hoping ultra13 is referring to a different year bike as would be a shame to buy the same lever that is already in bike
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Bakon, I have to chuckle with the rest of the guys..I also wrestled with removing the stock footbrake. And after a couple of beers and cus words during removal, I find out that the Kury. one was the same thing that I already have on my 2013. So needless to say I reinstalled the original one...
>:( >:( >:( Hope you find what ya need friend.. :)
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Came today. Put on bike in about half hour. It is not much different but just enough lower I believe I won't be doing the two step anymore. Stock about half my foot could fit under. Kury fits my toes only. Little bit forward too. So no more lifting foot, think I will be able to keep most on floorboards and just push with toes. Rain for next four days. Let you know after a ride.
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Stock pedal
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Stock foot
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Kury foot
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Stock top
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Kury top
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Kury toe push
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Glad she fits....Nice paint!
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bakon, it is definitely forward and lower than stock. I think you'll like it . . . I sure do. :2vrolijk_21:
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SoftBrake +1 Wide is one inch longer and 20% lower, and wider requires extension kit for floorboards.
Slotted: SB 014 (s) +1 W $152.95 (for 2014 Limited)
SB FBSK-(Blk)-09 Spacer kit 2009 or newer $65.95
shipping $15.00
(208) 561-5031
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I'm one to find ways to work around the instructions when I see a better way (which is a kind way of saying I don't read the instructions.... :) ) but I didn't see any possible way of getting to the removal of the stock lever without loosening the exhaust pipe and basically removing it for all intent and purposes. No way I could see on mine to get to the point of cotter removal and/or master cylinder removal. I figgled, foddled and farted just about every way possible and gave up. I was going to install the floorboard extensions anyway but had contemplated the smaller brake peddle foot pad for a few months and gave that a try. I did devise a cover so when I was grinding the brake lever so the smaller pad would fit, the dust/soot/metal shavings would be confined and not go willy-nilly all over the bike.
I'm glad you are pleased with your choice of the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal.... ;D
Remove floorboard.
remove bolts holding rear master cylinder to frame.
remove nut holding lever on but don't try to slide lever off pivot. (be careful of the o rings.
lift the lever and move rearward tilting the master cyl slightly, and from underneath remove cotter pin.
lower lever to remove the pin and little washer.
Reinsert pin from above with long needle nose.
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Cost $108 on Amazon
Pin removal- pulled lever and master cylinder towards me and off bike, kind of leaned over so my finger could reach. Bend mostly with finger and yanked out by needle nose pliers. Put new pin back in same way.
Ride- awesome. Lever applies more pressure with foot lower and still on floorboard. Activates ABS rather easy. Got to learn to push easier.
As a bad habit, I haven't used rear brake on half my stops. Too lazy to move my foot around that stock lever and hang it in the air to use the rear. Was awkward. Now I have front and rear brakes again. Happy camper.
My floorboard was out about 1/2 inch already with Vance and Hines spacers. Fit was easy.
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100 miles later....should have been changed before anything else! Didn't think it would be that good since the lowers didn't allow the longer one...it was money well spent.
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100 miles later....should have been changed before anything else! Didn't think it would be that good since the lowers didn't allow the longer one...it was money well spent.
I totally agree. It makes a world of difference.
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Yes my EZ-Brake made such a difference it was amazing!
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I'm one to find ways to work around the instructions when I see a better way (which is a kind way of saying I don't read the instructions.... :) ) but I didn't see any possible way of getting to the removal of the stock lever without loosening the exhaust pipe and basically removing it for all intent and purposes. No way I could see on mine to get to the point of cotter removal and/or master cylinder removal. I figgled, foddled and farted just about every way possible and gave up. I was going to install the floorboard extensions anyway but had contemplated the smaller brake peddle foot pad for a few months and gave that a try. I did devise a cover so when I was grinding the brake lever so the smaller pad would fit, the dust/soot/metal shavings would be confined and not go willy-nilly all over the bike.
I'm glad you are pleased with your choice of the Kuryakyn extended brake pedal.... ;D
For some reason the Kuryakyn instructions and YouTube help videos are not very helpful. One guy manages to get the OEM pedal out and kuryakyn in by just removing header heat shield. Shop manual has removal of fairing lowers and or engine bars. All show how tough it is to remove the cotter pin.
I did mine today after gazing at the setup over a beer last night. Whole job start to finish 45 minutes. Do not remove floor board, do not remove exhaust and or heat shield and certainly leave engine bars and lowers (if you have them) where they are. Process:
1. Put something large and softish under the whole foot board / master cylinder assembly to support when you have the whole heavy thing in your hands after removing a few bolts
2. Remove the two bolts that hold the rear master cylinder to the engine mount plate and leave the master cylinder floating.
3. Remove the three large bolts holding the engine plate to the frame (this is the plate to which the master cylinder and foot board hangers also mount
4. Gently rest the whole shooting match on whatever you chose in #1. Take care to not over strain the brake fluid pipe in the process.
5. You now have the clevis and cotter pin out in the open right in front of you. Whip them out, unbolt the OEM lever, slide it out, clean the shaft, grease it and slide on the Kurakyn (before doing this snug up the grease nipple as it arrives loose for some reason)
6. Get a long rod that fits through the larger plate mounting holes and use this as a guide to position up the plate for remounting. Is heavy and awkward to get a bolt started otherwise. Always remember to not lose your cool and or risk over straining the brake fluid pipe. Get all three bolts in and tourqued up, re-attach the two bolts/master cylinder and mechanical job done
7. Clean all the grease marks off your chrome and make sure to use something good to get it off the exhaust parts before starting the engine
8. Check brake function, go have fun
It is really worth doing the job. The Kuryakyn seems to be a modest change in length but it is perfect for allowing full use of footboard and with its lower angle is so much easier to cover and use in anger. I have the kuryakyn board extenders which also move the boards out from the bike. Whole thing works sweet together
Cheers
David