Wow, I would have thought they would be better based upon the '06 "Stock" numbers posted by H-D. According to the marketing material for that model...120hp/86.0lbs @7000rpm...no mods.
Oh well.
My V was dyno'd with less than 500 miles on her. I went and dug out the sheets so I could see before/after graphs. The stock run was 117/84. I remember thinking there wasn't that much of a difference. And those numbers are at 8,000 rpms not 7,000 rpms so I can see where Fired00d is right about the difference at crank and rear wheel. I'm not a mechanic, but do understand computer programs. I somewhat thought it was going to be a waste of money when Dawg told me that I needed to get it done, but John's wife explained the process to me and then it made sense - maybe not mechanically but logically.
The thing that I noticed the most was less of a dip in power at 3500 rpms. He said that is common with a Thunderheader even though the manfacturer says it's not there, but by doing the custom map, he was able to smooth that out some. Another was the Air/Fuel ratios and the fuel intake at each throttle position. For instance, on the V, there was NO fuel intake at position 1 through 3 and very little between 3 and 10. That really doesn't make a difference to you or anyone used to a juice clutch, but I went from a 99 Sportster where I had a big friction zone to a hydraulic clutch on the V that I found difficult to start uphill from a complete stop. When I talked to Bill Morris about it at Earl Small HD (a former Zipper employee), he told me that was why I kept dumping it. After the dyno, I didn't have to gun it some much on uphill starts. Maybe that's my imagination, but until then I had to restart a few times (and that is not easy while trying to follow the Dawg who seemed to forget I was new to the bike).
As I said, I'm not a mechanic, but have habitually paid close attention to the feel and sound of every vehicle I have owned. I cannot tell you how many times I have got out to find the source of something that sounds different. I can tell when my fuel injectors need cleaned, when my brakes needs serviced, oil needs changed, or I have a rock or nail stuck in my tire (or that my son decided to "powerslide" in my car), etc from the change in sound, feel, and smell. I think that come from growing up dirt poor and knowing that if something goes wrong, I'd be SOL and was taught "a stitch in time can save nine." After my ride home from MB, I could tell you at exactly what speed/rpm I felt the dip or when something changed. I freaked out on my ride with JC and Chip because I could smell antifreeze and thought I was about to blow the bike!
Some guys on the Vrod forum told me that I should have it dyno'd at 3500 miles or so to get a true reading. I was also told that if it dyno'd with those numbers at low miles that it would only "get stronger" with time. Not sure what that means or how it works until I have it done and ask my usual 10,000 questions!
Gary, I'd like to hear a recording of it before and after the change in pipes. I actually like the look of the stock pipes better, but I like the sound of the Thunderheader. It makes it sound less like a Jap bike! John Golden said he would not have put a Thunderheader on it. I was trying to remember what he recommended, but can't. Will have to think about that one.