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[WildmanUltra]

Just want to make sure I am not going to be in trouble here. My torque curve dips off the line so am worried that it might cause issues.
Running the SESPT with the Auto tune module. Do I need to take it to another tuner and have them try to get the dip out?

Also is it worthwhile for me to buy the cables and download the software from HD for the SESPT?

Thanks.

[johnsachs]

You need to get a dyno sheet with the fuel curve shown at the bottom of the sheet if your currrent sheet doesn't show it. A decision can be made at that time as to what you have.
John

[hd-dude]

You need to get a dyno sheet with the fuel curve shown at the bottom of the sheet if your currrent sheet doesn't show it. A decision can be made at that time as to what you have.
John

X2

[hawgzilla]

Also it would help to know the engine components and exhaust system used.  Looks a lot like a no baffle exhaust curve but need to know all about the build.

[scotman623]

What are you running for exhaust? More specifically baffles-SlipOns? I agree with the above, looking like low back pressure on the SlipOn exit.. More specific information about your build would help us give you better information..

[WildmanUltra]

Sorry guys for not giving more information to start.

Stock 117" HD Big Bore kit.
SE259e cam
9.9:1 compression ratio
58mm Throttle Body

Khrome Werks 202820 4in. High-Performance Muffler : https://smile.amazon.com/Khrome-Werks-202820-High-Performance-Muffler/dp/B0725FJFSZ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=202820&qid=1568567849&s=automotive&sr=1-1

V&H Power Duals head pipe : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008BYQ7EK/ref=psdc_404746011_t3_B013LDV6HI

SESPT w/Auto tune module.

I'll have to see if I can get the AFR readout when I am at the dealership next week. Here is a short video of the bike running. I've ordered some different baffles from Khrome Werks to see if they help any. I spoke with them and these are their most restrictive baffles. Have no idea if they will help or not.

http://www.khromewerks.com/shop/detail/202708P

[WildmanUltra]

One thing I was mistaken about is the model of the mufflers that were installed on my bike. I finally got the part numbers from the dealer and checked to see which ones they had ordered. I thought I had the 4" mufflers but come to find out I have the 4.5".

I thought I had 202820 but instead I have 202825. Now what difference that makes I don't know yet.

[WildmanUltra]

I had ordered some baffles for the Khrome Werks mufflers and they came in yesterday so I got them installed but it was too late to try and go for a test ride to see if it helped at all.



Just hope they don't choke the exhaust down too much now.

Install was easy, just pull the tip off the mufflers and they slide right inside.





Here is the inside without the baffles.



And then one with the baffles installed.



How it sounds now. I'll report back on if it made any difference in the bog down low. Do I need to get it retuned becasue I installed these baffles?

[scotman623]

I would think with the extra back pressure you should be okay, hopefully it clears up that bottom dip some... Looking forward to hearing your results.

[WildmanUltra]

I would think with the extra back pressure you should be okay, hopefully it clears up that bottom dip some... Looking forward to hearing your results.

So I didn't ride it yesterday but I had an appointment in Yakima today with my prosthesis to get cast for a new socket. So I left early and rode the same backroads I'd done before.

WOW       

So I am sure it would be better with a retune but WOW man o man it made a huge difference in how it runs below 3K RPM's. And now in 1st gear when you blip the throttle it wants to rip them out of your hands. So I'm more impressed now and can't wait to get some more seat time. Going to the VA in Seattle on Monday for an appointment and then taking the bike back to the dealer to have the clutch safety switch replaced.

It would be interesting to see what it would do now on the dyno. I know it's more or less wasted money but I'd like to see what it does on the same dyno before I get anymore work done to it.

[Para Bellum]

Going to the VA in Seattle on Monday for an appointment and then taking the bike back to the dealer to have the clutch safety switch replaced.

It would be interesting to see what it would do now on the dyno. I know it's more or less wasted money but I'd like to see what it does on the same dyno before I get anymore work done to it.

Many places will do just a dyno pull (no tuning) for a reasonable price, like $50.  Even though the butt dyno says it's a big improvement, it's always nice to see it in black and white. 

Be sure to ask them to print out the original dyno run, and the new one, in SAE with the AFR (Air-Fuel Ratio) curve included.  Don't let them wiggle out of this, which they might  try, b/c it really shows if they've done a bad job.

BTW, SAE is automatically corrected for current temperature and pressure.  That lets you compare dyno runs done at different temperatures and barometric pressures.  STD (Standard), the way your original graph was printed, usually shows higher HP and TQ, which is why many dealers want to show it that way.

[SneakyPete]

Congrats on your build! 

IMHO it is more important to make sure your tune is correct rather than worrying about the numbers.

[WildmanUltra]

Many places will do just a dyno pull (no tuning) for a reasonable price, like $50.  Even though the butt dyno says it's a big improvement, it's always nice to see it in black and white. 

Be sure to ask them to print out the original dyno run, and the new one, in SAE with the AFR (Air-Fuel Ratio) curve included.  Don't let them wiggle out of this, which they might  try, b/c it really shows if they've done a bad job.

BTW, SAE is automatically corrected for current temperature and pressure.  That lets you compare dyno runs done at different temperatures and barometric pressures.  STD (Standard), the way your original graph was printed, usually shows higher HP and TQ, which is why many dealers want to show it that way.

I'm going to call the dealership today and ask them what another pull on the dyno would cost. I have to take the bike in Tuesday anyhow to get the clutch safety switch replaced so MAYBE they can do it then.

This is the first bike I have ever had dyno'd so I have no idea what I am doing so I really appreciate the shared knowledge. I'm also going to stop by the parts counter and let them know these mufflers need baffles at least on the twin cam. I can't speak to if they are needed on the M8.

Congrats on your build! 

IMHO it is more important to make sure your tune is correct rather than worrying about the numbers.

Yes I agree, I would rather know my bike is tuned correctly and am not interested in having braggin rights at the local bar. I want a bike that runs good and makes good rideable power.
I really appreciate all the help.


Update: Just talked to the dealer and they are going to throw it on the dyno for me & tweak the tune a little.

[WildmanUltra]

So is one sheet with the new pull and then a comparison between the first pull and the new pull with the baffles.

[FLSTFI Dave]

That new baffle helped a lot where you need it.  Shows that these big baffles do not help, sound good but loose power.

There is still a lot in your build if you get a TTS tuner and have a good tune done.  My 2015 CVO Road Glide Ultra in 2015 with just a Fullsac Head pipe, Fullsac 2.25 baffles, TTS tuner and a very good tune done in FL by one of the best was making 96HP, and 115 Torque. 

With more inches like you have and a better cam like you have a TTS tuner and a good tune will get you more HP and More Torque and a better curve.  Head work would really make it shine.

Again, the torque curve now is much better and more ridable than it was before the baffle change.

[Yellow09SERG]

Baffles sure helped you where you needed it. Thats that seat of the pants you felt. As Dave said, good tuner, TTS or something to that effect will make an improvement. Good tuner, TTS, and some head work will really help curtail that new bug you have.... 

[WildmanUltra]

Thank you all for your help and advice. This a all a learning experiance for me and I am making mistakes as I go but also learning. Building this Harley is nothing like building my Jeep but I am getting the same enjoyment out of it. As I go along I'm sure I'll be asking stupid questions but you guys always seem to have an answer and appreciate you not rippin me to bad.

Now I just need to win the Lotto so I can do everything I'd like to be able to do.

[Yellow09SERG]

One thing I have learned about here is there is always someone willing to help and answer questions. I have asked a lot of stupid questions, we all have at some point, and me for one am sure that my asking of stupid questions isn't over with so join in... 

[WildmanUltra]

Being this is my FIRST ever dyno of any of my bikes I had no idea what to expect. I do wish I could be in there watching them run the bike and learn more about what they are doing. I'd like to learn more about how to do all this. But I also understand safety issues and insurance so I get why I can't.

I tried watching the training video from HD for the SEPST and will admit I am a little lost. I need to watch it again and maybe some of it will sink in and I'll have the lightbulb go on.

I'm glad I was able to correct that dip and now have a bike that is more enjoyable to ride.