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CVO Technical => Intake/Exhaust/ECM => Topic started by: ultrarider123 on June 11, 2012, 10:21:08 AM
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OK, here goes nothing. This is my first posting for anything...ever...anywhere (except for the new member intro on a couple of forums I'm on). I mainly read and gather information. I have to post this, however, in regards to the exhaust discussions and hope to help a few of you/us out there that may just want to keep everything stock but want a bit louder exhaust note.
First off, I've been riding/tinkering/repairing HD's for about 25 years. I've had some great teachers over these years (Larry Poole for one...gone from this world but riding in the next...) and learned quite a bit about carbs, exhaust and such....pretty much enough to make 'em run better. This fuel injection "stuff" is great for cold, altitude changes, etc but working on it can be a "-itch". When you change something, you have to buy more stuff to make it run right when you used to be able to modify and then adjust on the carb and it ran like a top.
My focus here is keeping the stock header pipe (yep, with the catalyst in place) but "fixing" the screaming eagle exhaust. On the stock mufflers that came on the Evo and older bikes, the Company would tack weld in a small plate (a bit larger than a quarter) inside the inlet of the muffler. This was addressed a few times on a couple of discussions concerning the Fullsac systems and coreing the cat. A note on the cat issues...while I've removed the cat material plenty of times on some older four wheeled vehicles over the years, I always removed the entire catalyst material, not just opening a hole. I'm sure this works great for a while but would worry that after a while, the material remaining would eventually break down and clog the exhaust. It does it all the time on older cars with no modification...the cat aftermarked business is booming for some reason?
As stated, in the past you could take a good size wooden dowel and a good sledge and "pop" the small plate out of the muffler. You still had good "stock" sound at road speeds but sitting at idle and when you "open it up", it sounds so much better with a very good, deep rumble. The Company still has to meet the EPA noise regulations even on the factory customs like our CVO's so to meet this, they have to "quiet" the stock screaming eagle mufflers with the modern version of that plate. The new thing is a tube style "plug" that's now tacked into the exit end of the muffler and believe me, you cannot knock this one out. You can however dremel it out.
You are now asking why would you want to do this? Well, if you want to be stock but don't want to spend the money on the Fullsac conversion (good conversion, by the way...I am NOT knocking that option here!) you can bring those SE mufflers back to the way they were suppose to be running. How do I know this? Well, if you look at any aftermarket muffler including the SE mufflers and including most cores you purchase, you have an unobstructive view straight through the muffler. By taking this plug out, you open that SE back to how it should be running and you DO NOT have to change anything else if you choose not to do so.
In my next post for this discussion, I'll supply a picture of that plug in place and removed and, hopefully...if I can figure out how to do it...of the removal process. I AM NOT suggesting that this is the end all to all the issues with the stock header and the catalyst but it does give you the sound level for folks that still have to pass yearly exhaust testing from our nanny State(s). OK, here we go....post the picture of the plug installed and removed in a bit.
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I've done two of these for two friends and they could not be happier and all it cost them was a good cigar and an adult beverage (AFTER the work was completed...nothing like a good Guiness after working on a bike). I've got two more scheduled for this week and will attempt to document the removal on one of the next two.
Here's a picture of the plug in place:
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....and here is a picture of the plug after removal. See, it's still restrictive even with the holes and such. This plug causes the exhaust gasses to pass through the packing material in the muffler making it quieter. But after removal, what a difference! Again, no modification other than plug removal so if you want the cat removed also, please see the other discussions that address this. More pictures and instructions to come. I do have a removal after work this afternoon so, hopefully, I will have instructions and pictures to come tonight or tomorrow.
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Okey dokey...here we go. This first picture is before removing the saddlebags and the mufflers. I didn't take an after picture because is looks the same as the before.
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I don't want to insult anyone as there are many posts on removing the mufflers and saddlebags and most folks know how...no reason to rehash here...so after you have removed your saddlebags and muffler, you can look down the end of the muffler with the end cap. You can see the plug (as it looks on the one above from the other bike this weekend).
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Here's the dremel tool with the reinforced grinding wheel. They make a diamond wheel which will cut this much faster but the cost doesn't outweigh the operation as this one works fine. I bought a 5 pack and after three bikes, still have two of them left. It just fits inside the opening.
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A note here. I did not remove the heat sheilds nor the end cap from the muffler in this removal. I did, however, on the first one and realized it was a waste of time. As you can see, the dremel fits just fine inside the muffler and end cap and actually sits just on the top of the inner tube. With the Dremel on high, you can rotate the grinding wheel around the inside of the plug cutting a groove. After 3 or 4 minutes of good, constant pressure, you will here a plop...that's the tube falling down through the muffler body to the other end. When you pick up the muffler, the plug will fall out.
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...and there it is. An open Screaming Eagle muffler just as the good Lord and Harley meant it to be.
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This is the plug (again). Simple, easy and cost effective for those of us that really want to keep the bike stock but a bit more sound. I made a before and after video of this but I have no clue on how to post anything like this. If I figure that out, I'll post it. Once this plug has been removed, you can replace the muffler and do the other side. In all, the first time I did it took about 1 1/2 hours but there were some accessories he wanted installed, too. This particular removal took about 40 minutes. Idle is a bit louder but running down the road under normal load sounds....well normal. When you get on it or start out, it has a mean but very livable, deep growl. Hope this helps some of you that just want a bit more muscle from your CVO without spending that extra money. PLEASE NOTE: I am not attempting to talk anyone out of removing the stock header or doing anything you choose to your own bike...hey, it's your bike! Just want to give those that choose a different option.
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How well does the stock ECM handle the change?
Does this cause a loss of back pressure and torque?
I would assume the emissions are still within EPA limits?
This doesn't help with any of the heat issues on the 110s, tho.
I'll be interested to hear what the CVO Ninjas (Jerry, Don, Hillside, Dewey's) have to say...
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Thanks for taking the time on the muffler write up and pictures. Takes a while to do. The mod may not be for everyone but is nice to know there are choices out there.
It would be nice to hear what the bikes sound like after the removal.
Like lilcoot asked, how is the power/torque compared to stock after this is done?
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I would assume the emissions are still within EPA limits?
I doubt it, since the emissions the EPA regulates are both gaseous content and sound levels.
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Nice clean job but that baffle just came into being on the 2012 CVOs they are vastly different on the earlier models.
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I would assume the emissions are still within EPA limits?
"I doubt it, since the emissions... are both gaseous content and sound levels."
I wouldn't know anything about gaseous content and sound levels! What are you implying? :innocent: :blush: :blush: :blush: :innocent:
Glen, I meant to include you in the list of CVO Ninjas. Sorry for the omission. :oops: You're right, I was trying to just refer to the chemical emissions, but there are a FEW CVOs around with altered sound emissions, too.
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Thanks for all the replies and yep, the 12 CVO's SE mufflers are a bit different than say my old 2009 that had the cat in the muffler. I looked at all types of ways to fix that issue with the 2009 but as I was happy with the sound the stock system had, I let it go. I believe, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the '11 has these same muffer plugs. I'm not sure about the 2010 CVOs. Also, you are correct in that this change is not for everyone but it's a great option for folks that want a better rumble, stock system that doesn't turn the heads of the public safety officers as you pass them/they pass you on the highway or sitting at a traffic light.
Glens: I would agree that if your state/city/county tests both exhaust and sound levels, you may not pass the sound level exam. As this plug removal only opens the SE muffler and does not effect anything else in the system including the O2 sensors and catalyst, the exhaust content would be the same either with the plug in or out. If you note in the picture of the exhaust tube after picture, the SE muffler inner tube reduces a bit from the inlet to the exit (get's smaller). It's not a big difference but that along with the plug causes the gasses to pass through the packing material. Even without the plug, this slight diameter reduction still causes some of the exhaust to pass through the material...hence it still is muffled a bit at idle and highway speed. So you still may be able to pass the sound level checks depending on the testing criteria. Also, that stamp on the side of the muffler states EPA approved and unless you take the muffler off and look down the tube from the inlet, you can't see where the plug was removed. You could not say that about changing from the stock baffle to an aftermarket unit. You can still argue the point that it's a legal muffler which it actually is.
Lilcoot: The ECM should not see anything different as the rest of the system remains intact. The stock computer allows for single changes in the system (as stated many times by folks on this forum and three different dealers/mechanics I've talked with). As for back pressure and torque. The plug is there for noise restriction to cause the exhaust to pass through the packing. If you note the pictures, the plug has holes so even with it in place, there is some exhaust that goes through anyway. Removing the plug only allows for the noise level to increase. If you note the other posts with the pictures of the catalyst material, you could use a stove pipe as a muffler and not effect the back pressure as restrictive as that catalyst is. I've seen no decrease (seat of the pants) in power or acceleration and the fuel mileage is the same.
Again, very little was changed in this process that would cause any operational issues, just a bit more sweet sound from that CVO. :bananarock:
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I hadn't ridden for nearly 20 years when I became aware of the '07 Road King Classic and bought one in June of that year. Since then I've "upgraded" to an '09 Ultra Classic and to replace that after a deer used it to commit suicide a '12 Ultra Classic. The '07 had a "standard" muffler on the right with two tubes, one from each end, overlapping in the middle. The left side was basically a hollow can with a thin layer of insulation around a wire screen lining the inside of the can and with an outlet configured (what appears to be) exactly like is shown in this thread.
The '09 had a different headpipe setup but each muffler internally was exactly like those from '07.
The '12 has the same headpipe configuration as the '09 except there's a catalyst in the "collector" chamber. Both mufflers are configured just like the previous left-side mufflers were. Just an empty can with some sound deadening lining the interior of the shell and an outlet (which appears to be) exactly as show in this thread.
Of course I removed that short outlet tube from the left muffler from one of the old sets, and the "standard" guts from the right (which also had the can lined with insulation the same as the left) to install the Fullsac cores. If I'd merely remove the outlet tube as shown in this thread, it would've been quite loud, I'm sure, even if I'd left the cat'd headpipe installed. How differently the CVO mufflers are configured internally is unknown to me.
About that EPA stamp on the muffler and it thereby being still legal... Sorry to say that would not be the case. The stamp is only good so long as the muffler remains unmodified in any way. Once it's modified, the stamp is invalid and it falls outside the realm of "legal". I don't like it any better than anyone else, but that's the way it is.
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My 2011 CVO street glide exhaust looks nothing like this. Any suggestions?
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My core also looks different, I forgot to take before pictures, but here is what they look like now.
I removed about half the fiberglass
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and drilled holes, as well as cut out two sections to allow a straight through path.
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Here is a close up of the section cut out.
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Here is a look through the core, when all on the bike, it looks stock, but sure isn't as quiet as it was.
I like the sound now, but will sound better once I put on the fullsac 2.25" cores and headers.
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How well does the stock ECM handle the change?
Does this cause a loss of back pressure and torque?
I would assume the emissions are still within EPA limits?
This doesn't help with any of the heat issues on the 110s, tho.
I'll be interested to hear what the CVO Ninjas (Jerry, Don, Hillside, Dewey's) have to say...
While not knocking anyone listed here, I would be interested in what Steve Cole has to say about it, as he is the developer.
Don't recall where, but I thought I read/heard that the ECM was capable of up to a 5% compensation for changes
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Yep, the cores in my '11 SERGU looked like the ones in Roadrunners pictures, before he modded them. They now have Fullsac 2" cores in them. I would assume the '10 models are the same.
But, on a '12 this appears to be a viable alternative to replacing the whole core. As far as the ECM is concerned, this would be like putting a pair of slip on mufflers, which in theory does not require a new map. Asside from the noise level violation regarding EPA regs, I would assume the emissions would be virtually the same.
I wonder what his mod would sound like with a stock head pipe that has the cat removed? Of course, that would require a modification to the ECM to run right.
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Without doing some testing, here are just a few thoughts. By removing the restriction you have increased the flow through the CAT and the exhaust systems and reduced the back pressure. Does this violate the Law, yep in most states it does. Anyone going to say anything to you provided you ride nice, No. Now as for what it will do to the ECM is unknown but the ECM can handle a change of about 8 - 10 % max. in fuel requirements. So I would assume with No other changes you would be OK but if you got a good running bike from HD it will not, as they were already using part of that 8 - 10% before your modification.
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All great comments and after posting this, I've looked into three different CVO's of local folks in the Knoxville, TN area. The stock 2010 SESG I viewed has a core that is different than the one in my 2012 FLHXSE3. Funny, however, that the two other bikes were both 2011's (SERG and SESG) and both were stock (at least so far...) and one had the internals similar to the 2010. The other one (and yep, I checked...it was made closer to the end of the 2011 model year) looked just like mine. Looks like the motor company made a mid-cycle change sometime in 2011 to the current muffler configuration.
I've looked at three new 2012 CVO's (Ultra and two Road Glides) and they all had the same config as my CVO so please review/look at your muffler before starting this (or any) project as some of the details for modifications on a thread may not match what is staring you in the face.
As for the ECM, yes, they are designed for modest modifications without any changes to the programing. This would be a modest mod.
Some follow-up from the last bike I worked on using this procedure. At first he was hoping for a bit louder result. However, when he was riding behind mine last weekend, he noted just how much better it sounded. As he was use to a V&H system on his wide glide where the exhaust was right under his right ear, he realized all the sound on his SERG was way behind him. He was pleased after hearing and riding behind another bike. Again, no money out of pocket for this mod. It's not for everyone but it's a very inexpensive way to make a modest noise change. If not loud enough, there are plenty of vendors out there ready to take your money. My opinion and the route I would go if I were to make any addition mods were to go with the Fullsac system. I like the idea of looking stock but not sounding that way. Thanks for all the great comments
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Just did this modification to my stock 2012 flhtcu, what a differnce! My stock pipes were slightly different. I used a 1-3/8" bimetal hole saw from home depot. $9.95. What a difference! Bike runs cooler and sound, well like it should.
thanks for sharing.
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Nice option mtkajoe, any chance of seeing a photo of the completed work?
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Well I know what I'll be doing later this week ::) nice write up thanks for the info. Now let me ask this. What would it hurt to remove the baffles completely ? Can you run the bike without them in ?
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Well I know what I'll be doing later this week ::) nice write up thanks for the info. Now let me ask this. What would it hurt to remove the baffles completely ? Can you run the bike without them in ?
i did for about a week, in several configurations, by removing the cores and fiberglass, it was pretty loud, a little too loud for me. with no fiberglass and the cores in, it was a little too tinny sounding, I kinda like the present config as shown in the pictures I posted. I still plan on doing the FullSac 2.25 inch cores to get a deeper sound.
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i did for about a week, in several configurations, by removing the cores and fiberglass, it was pretty loud, a little too loud for me. with no fiberglass and the cores in, it was a little too tinny sounding, I kinda like the present config as shown in the pictures I posted. I still plan on doing the FullSac 2.25 inch cores to get a deeper sound.
Cool so it wouldn't hurt the bike to run it with no baffles or packing?
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Cool so it wouldn't hurt the bike to run it with no baffles or packing?
I can't tell you it will or wont, I ran mine for a few days with no baffles or packing, it seemed to run great, maybe even better than stock. but it was too lound for me, and I didn't want to take too much of a chance before I get a programmer.
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Great to hear some of y'all have tried this and as an update, I've done 5 more for friends since I started this post. I was asked during one of these baffle removals (and some of y'all have mentioned it, too) about taking the entire baffle out (fiberglass and all). I would not as I didnt' really want to tackle cutting the welds out of someone elses SE muffler until I tried it on my bike. As I don't want to remove the packing on mine, I have not attempted. I did, however, show this rider where HE could grind the welds. I checked back with him a few days later and he was OK with what I had done...did not want "gut" the SE muffler. I've had open mufflers in the past and while it's great at a rally or at a group get-together to see who has the loudest bike, it gets a bit "head-achey" after 100 miles on a 1500 mile trip :nixweiss:
After about 700 miles on my change, I can tell you that there is no reduction in power from stock on the 110. My gas mileage on 100% gas has remained 45 plus in town/country road driving. I haven't taken a long (300 plus) trip yet (coming soon).
I am not happy with the heat from the catalyst especially on these 100 plus days but I'm am happy with the sound and the cost of this modification.
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Removed the plugs today. Went for a 60 mile ride. Seems my right leg was cooler than previously, could just be my imagination. The bike sounds better and I haven't noticed any difference in performance. Good interim step prior to going the Fullsac route.
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Folks, I have had a couple questions concerning the plug and what I was removing. If you look into the rear/exit end of the 2012 CVO dresser mufflers (and 2011 and a couple of 2010 models as discussed in previous threads on this post) you will note it looks like the picture below. As you can see the muffler plug looks like someone took a metal tube and squeezed it on four sides (crimpted it, actually).
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As you can see from the above picture, it's the one I used at the first of this post showing the muffler prior to removal. This picture and the two following are of the plug removed. The pictures in the removal portion of this post were not clear enough for some to show the internals of the muffler after removal of the plug...I appologize for that. I did one last night and after the re-installation of the muffler, I took better pictures to show what was ground out and what remains/how it looks. Here's the first one:
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All of these three views are from the rear/exit end of the muffler. I did not attempt to take the pictures while the muffler was removed last evening as there was no good way I could shoot down the exhaust from the inlet side to show the same thing. Here's picture two:
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...and the last one. If you go back to the first two pictures at the beginning of this post, you will note the plug that was removed. As you can see from these last three pictures, there is a small "lip" that the plug sits on. The installation process (and please forgive me here to all the welders in the group...you know this) is that they install the plug from the inlet side, the plug "sits" on the "lip" and a charge is run through to tack/spot weld the plug in place. As discussed on this post, some of the OEM mufflers from the late 80s/most of the 90s had a quarter size plate tack welded (usually two, sometimes just on tack weld). This was easier to access as it was on the inlet side of the exhaust. Removal was a bit easier. This plug is in a place where you cannot knock it out but where there's a will........
Hope these extra pictures help.
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I did this today and well must say it took me alot longer than you :) about 3 hours and about 5 disks for the dremel tool. But it was worth it. It sounds great not to loud at idle and when you give it throttle it sounds great it is a happy medium IMO saved me about 400 bucks also. I'm fine just like this for me there is no need to upgrade exhaust. Thanks for the DYI. Happy riddin
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Glad it went well but sorry it took a bit longer but sounds (pardon the pun) like it went well and you are pleased. It sure beats spending a bunch of money right off the bat. As I've told the folks I've done this for, if you are still not happy, you can THEN go spend those dollars. So far, nobody that had this procedure followed-up with more money.
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Glad it went well but sorry it took a bit longer but sounds (pardon the pun) like it went well and you are pleased. It sure beats spending a bunch of money right off the bat. As I've told the folks I've done this for, if you are still not happy, you can THEN go spend those dollars. So far, nobody that had this procedure followed-up with more money.
Really no need to unless replacing full exhaust system.
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Thanks for the great idea! After reading the entire post, I started digging through my tool chest and realized that I had everything I needed to do the job. The first pipe was a learning experience....took 3 reinforced cutting wheels, a wooden dowel, hammer, and lot's of swearing and sweating before it finally came out. Once it was out, I was able to see the error of my ways. Second pipe took less than 2 minutes and about 1/4 of a cutting wheel, with no sweat, no swearing and no need to use the heavy artillery.
The difference between the two? Simply how far into the tube you choose to make your cut. If you look closely, you can see a slight ridge around the inside of the tube. This is the weld bead from the assembly. The trick is to make your cut 1/4" beyond that weld. Set the mandrel of the cutting wheel, and then make a quick test "scratch" inside the tube to see where you are at for depth, then adjust the mandrel in the chuck of the Dremel tool until your cut will taking place 1/4" or or so past the weld marks.
Sound is really good after the mod. Throaty growl at idle with a lot of bark when you ask for it. But at cruising speeds, only a barely noticeable difference in sound, which passed the wife test with flying colors. I only have 45 miles on it since I just did it last night, but we are doing a couple of long rides with my fellow Red Knights this weekend and I will see how it does with a tank or two of fuel to check the mileage (consistant 42 mpg running 93 octane with 10% ethanol).
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Thanks for the great idea! After reading the entire post, I started digging through my tool chest and realized that I had everything I needed to do the job. The first pipe was a learning experience....took 3 reinforced cutting wheels, a wooden dowel, hammer, and lot's of swearing and sweating before it finally came out. Once it was out, I was able to see the error of my ways. Second pipe took less than 2 minutes and about 1/4 of a cutting wheel, with no sweat, no swearing and no need to use the heavy artillery.
The difference between the two? Simply how far into the tube you choose to make your cut. If you look closely, you can see a slight ridge around the inside of the tube. This is the weld bead from the assembly. The trick is to make your cut 1/4" beyond that weld. Set the mandrel of the cutting wheel, and then make a quick test "scratch" inside the tube to see where you are at for depth, then adjust the mandrel in the chuck of the Dremel tool until your cut will taking place 1/4" or or so past the weld marks.
Sound is really good after the mod. Throaty growl at idle with a lot of bark when you ask for it. But at cruising speeds, only a barely noticeable difference in sound, which passed the wife test with flying colors. I only have 45 miles on it since I just did it last night, but we are doing a couple of long rides with my fellow Red Knights this weekend and I will see how it does with a tank or two of fuel to check the mileage (consistant 42 mpg running 93 octane with 10% ethanol).
Lol you did better than me. Both were a pain and I did the same thing went right after the weld line but my dremel was an old shorty so it was a pain to keep it steady. But anyways the sound is great now.
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I love it when a plan comes together! It's funny how some of the less expensive things actually work the best. Bulldog, you will really enjoy the quiet when you want it and the bark when you need it. I think you put the nail on the head as I was attempting to explain in a couple of posts that when you do this for the first time, you want to make a scratch with the dremel first to make sure you are cutting in the correct place. Glad everything worked out for you, bowman and all the others that have gone this route. You will find this is really all you need to do. Let me know how the ride went for you this weekend. If it's like most of mine, everybody wants to know how you got the sound out of the stock mufflers! Ride safe out there. :2vrolijk_21:
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1000 Mile Update:
Ok, with 1,000 miles behind us, we can safely give this very easy modification 2 thumbs up. Many people, both friends and strangers, have commented on how the bike sounds. Some have asked what pipes I was running. I just tell them they are factory CVO pipes, which of course they are. Fuel mileage has been steady at 40-42 mpg running Mobil 93 octane with 10% ethanol. Right side heat might be a little more pronounced than it was, but it is hard to say for sure since we have been doing a lot of charity bike events and are riding at slower speeds in larger groups. Nice deep rumble at idle, barks when you kick it in the ass and sounds refined at cruising speeds. We have been using the half-helmets and have no issues talking to each other without shouting, and can hear the stereo just fine. This was a very simple, quick (and CHEAP) modification. Over the winter we will do the Fullsac Stage 1 conversion to do it right, but for now this is a great starting point.
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I am assuming that the MOCO has not changed anything on the new 2013 SE mufflers coming stock on the SERK, SERG and SEUC? I haven't had a chance to see the new ones (have one at SMHD but haven't gotten over there yet). Had a chance to visit Montgomery (AL) HD but only one 2013 on the showroom and no CVO's. Any word on the new design from an observer out in the CVO world or from me (if I get to see one soon..) can be posted here. I would appreciate any feedback folks as if there IS a change, I need to start figuring out how to modify... :bananarock:
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So Im going to try here.
Everyone is mainly concerned about that coveted "Harley Sound".
Im concerned with matching the flow rate of all the components.
I found info telling me a stage 1 Big Sucker flows 200 cfm, the 103 heads flow 225 cfm, but no info on what the intake manifold and exhaust system flow.
Am I wasting money by adding a Big Sucker and tuning and keeping my oem 2006 exhaust?
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bmc, you may want to start a new post asking this question (if you haven't already). I would have to see what your muffler looks like from the 2006 to make any kind of guess BUT knowing that things changed drastically on the touring bikes in 2009, I would say your muffler/exhaust isn't the same style as what is discussed here... :nixweiss:
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The short answer to your question: Yes, it is a waste of money.
The longer answer: In the case of this thread, we are letting the same amount of air IN, while letting air flow more freely OUT. However, if you do the opposite and let more air IN, without allowing for a way to let all the extra air OUT, you are wasting your money. Picture a funnel in your mind. Pour a lot of water in the big end (modified intake/stock exhaust) and it backs up because water is flowing out through a more restrictive opening. Now flow water through the small end (stock intake/modified exhaust) and water flows much more freely with less restriction, but you can't get very much water in there in the first place. Best solution is to modify both intake and exhaust at the same time, and then load a tune (program) designed for that configuration. If you absolutely have to do one before the other, do the exhaust before the intake.
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I'd like to do this mod but still can't tell from the photos and description exactly where you are making the cut?
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If you look at the pictures and inside the rear of your mufflers, you will see this plug. The best way to make the cut in the correct place is to get your dremel ready, insert it into the rear end of the muffler and grind a bit. Remove the dremel and look inside. You should have made a grind point just inside the plug (about 1/8" or better). If you look at the plug installed and plug removed pictures (specially the plug when it's removed), you should be able to tell what you are removing on your bike. PM me if you need to discuss in more detail. It's hard to describe but once you realize what you are removing, it's pretty simple from there on out... :2vrolijk_21:
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Does anybody know what the baffle plug looks like on the 2012 softail conf. flstse3 and what you can do to remove it? Thanks!
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Does anybody know what the baffle plug looks like on the 2012 softail conf. flstse3 and what you can do to remove it? Thanks!
Saw one in the parking lot at SMHD this past weekend but had already replaced the stock system. I'll research and see what I can come up with.
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An update on the 2013 SE touring bikes (SERG, SEUC and SERK). Looks like the MOCO has gotten smarter as the exhaust outlet pipe is about 2" longer on the 2013's than the earlier bikes (2012 back). However, the plug is still the same design so while the principle of the plug removal is the same, access is a bit harder on the 2013's. The solution is using a longer shaft for the dremel but have not found one that long as of yet. I'm researching and will let you know.
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Just finished this mod.Wow!! what a difference it made.I was fixing to spend big money on new exhaust to get better sound but not now. I am very happy with this new sound.Thanks for the post!
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Glad to hear it. :2vrolijk_21: it really is amazing how much difference it makes and doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Plus, if you don't like it and wanted even more sound, THEN you can spend the money. So far all the ones I've done have stopped with this. Thanks for the kind words and glad I could help
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An update on the 2013 SE touring bikes (SERG, SEUC and SERK). Looks like the MOCO has gotten smarter as the exhaust outlet pipe is about 2" longer on the 2013's than the earlier bikes (2012 back). However, the plug is still the same design so while the principle of the plug removal is the same, access is a bit harder on the 2013's. The solution is using a longer shaft for the dremel but have not found one that long as of yet. I'm researching and will let you know.
Quoting myself here but a follow-up to the above. Been working on a couple solutions. The solution of a longer shaft for the dremel grinding wheel will NOT work. I tried a couple different lengths (used hardened steel same-diameter metal rods I fashioned) and there is a reason something turning 5K to 35K RPM needs a shorter shaft....yep, it wasn't pretty. I have a request in for one of the removed 2013 SE mufflers when one of the new local owners replaces their muffler/header for one of the many other options. But from what I have looked at in the dealership, the only way we may actually get to the plug in guestion is to remove the main pipe extention the MOCO placed restricting access to the plug on these new 2013 SE mufflers. As soon as I get on in hand to practice on, I'll post pictures and details.
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Quoting myself here but a follow-up to the above. Been working on a couple solutions. The solution of a longer shaft for the dremel grinding wheel will NOT work. I tried a couple different lengths (used hardened steel same-diameter metal rods I fashioned) and there is a reason something turning 5K to 35K RPM needs a shorter shaft....yep, it wasn't pretty. I have a request in for one of the removed 2013 SE mufflers when one of the new local owners replaces their muffler/header for one of the many other options. But from what I have looked at in the dealership, the only way we may actually get to the plug in guestion is to remove the main pipe extention the MOCO placed restricting access to the plug on these new 2013 SE mufflers. As soon as I get on in hand to practice on, I'll post pictures and details.
No luck huh? Darn it, darn it darn it! :huepfenlol2:
SG
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No luck huh? Darn it, darn it darn it! :huepfenlol2:
SG
That's funny right there.... :2vrolijk_21:
Yep, looks like if I can't find a solution for this, folks may have to spend money on one of 'dem hexaust sistums that ya sell.... ;D
Steve, I will be the first to tell you that the Fullsac way is the best way to go if you want to replace the header and innerds of the stock SE muffler. You build a great system...I'm just cheap and want to spend as little as possible. Have a great day... :2vrolijk_21:
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That's funny right there.... :2vrolijk_21:
Yep, looks like if I can't find a solution for this, folks may have to spend money on one of 'dem hexaust sistums that ya sell.... ;D
Steve, I will be the first to tell you that the Fullsac way is the best way to go if you want to replace the header and innerds of the stock SE muffler. You build a great system...I'm just cheap and want to spend as little as possible. Have a great day... :2vrolijk_21:
Thanks Ultra!
SG
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Huge shout out to the OP and everyone involved in this thread. I was surfing for info on slipons and headpipes trying to make that hard decision we all face. Which sound? What pipe can I find with the sound and performance I want? I stumbled upon this and my wife is at work, dremel and scoot were just chillin in the garage so I thought, hey! Why not give this a try before you pull the trigger on any aftermarket parts? So I ran to the parts store and grabbed a 5 pack of reinforced dremel disks and probably spent about 60-90 mins of total labor relatively painless once I figured out a method to the madness. So then the moment of truth, starting the scoot. You know what? Pretty damn impressed, quite a significant change!!! I am going to let it marinate awhile. Maybe I upgrade, maybe I don't but it's the best damn 5 dollar upgrade I have ever done! :bananarock:
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Glad to hear it. Another satisfied do it yourselfer... :2vrolijk_21:
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Can this be done on my 2012 CVO Softail Convertible?
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Mrs C I do not believe the internals on your CVO convertible mufflers are configured the same as the touring SE mufflers. I looked at one a few months back and the internals are different. Sorry about that. However, you may want to check with the fulsac folks (Steve is a great guy) and they should be able to help. They are in the vendor area on this site and Steve has numerous posts in the exhaust section. Hope this helps
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No luck huh? Darn it, darn it darn it! :huepfenlol2:
SG
OK Steve, got a new one for you that I've been thing about for a while!
I LOVE the stock sound, but hate the heat. so I was thinking.?
What kind of results could I expect with your head pipe and stock
mufflers? Would it reduce the heat, and give the same results
as stock, or would you you still need a tune???
Thanks for your response in advance.
Taz
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Taz and Mrs C,
Try the following link to the vendor discount page. The first thread from firedOOd has all Steve's contact information and can set you on the right path. That link is:
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=27481.0
A follow-up to the issues on the 2013 SE touring muffler and the changes the MoCo has made. I should have a muffler soon from the local dealer and will post pics/instructions when I get a good idea on how to tackle the extended muffler pipe to access the same, old plug found in the 2012 and earlier. And yes Steve, I will be using my dremel...not my wifes, mine.... :D ;D :2vrolijk_21:
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Ultra1, I was checking out the threads on the hollowing out of the mufflers, along with the feed back of those that did it and how pleased they were with the resalts. With that kind of feed back it's kinda hard to ignore.
There was the mention if it could be done on different types of systoms, but I didn't notes any
thing on ovals. This is what I've got V&H slip ons they came with the bike.
You know what the queston going to be, would you know if the baffles can be removed from ovals?
I've done some digging through V&H exhaust to try and find if they showed a cut through of the baffling
but came up empty. Would you have a suggestions on weather or not they can be removed?
Thanks for any input mate
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PM sent and thanks Pete
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Heres the pipe pics x3. PM sent cheers
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2of3
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3of3
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Thanks for the pics Pete. Replied to your PM. Have a great day
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Thanks Howard keep safe :2vrolijk_21: Have been catching up on tuners
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Have you tried your mod on a 2013 cvo can yet.
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WOW. Cant believe i've never noticed this thread before. One question tho. You say that the ecm is designed for modest modifications without any changes to the programing, I have already gotten a stock, decatted head pipe i was gonna throw on, but will both of these mods lean it out far too much? Thx.
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Have you tried your mod on a 2013 cvo can yet.
No, not yet. Went by there over this past weekend and no "test" piece yet but should be soon (hopefully). I did get a chance to look at one a bit closer at SMHD this past weekend, however, and looks like it should not be an issue. Will have to remove the exhaust tips to accomplish what I have in mind but again should not be an issue. Will post pics and details as soon as I get my test subject in my hands.
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WOW. Cant believe i've never noticed this thread before. One question tho. You say that the ecm is designed for modest modifications without any changes to the programing, I have already gotten a stock, decatted head pipe i was gonna throw on, but will both of these mods lean it out far too much? Thx.
If just changing the muffler, should not need to adjust anything. With the change/modification of the muffler AND adding the free flowing header pipe, yep you will need some kind of reprogramming on the ECM. Many options out there with either the HD/SE or any of the other options that are discussed (in detail) on the site. TTS seems to be a used quite a bit. I did not change out my stock header (although FulSac offers exactly what I would put on IF I did go that route). I was looking for the least amount of output (money wise) with the greatest effect. This fit the bill and I (and quite a few others) are satisfied to stop here. Hope this helps.
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Do you think that a hole saw with a extension would work to remove the plug on the 2013's cans. You can get the hole saws in different diameters and some are for metal applications
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HJP, it would work but you would be cutting the crimpted end of the plug out, not the entire plug. However, if you give that a try, please post the pics and description as it would be an alternative whether my plan will work for the '13s or not... :2vrolijk_21:
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With the change/modification of the muffler AND adding the free flowing header pipe, yep you will need some kind of reprogramming on the ECM.
Thx for the input, that's what i figured.
I have been reading up on fullsacs stage 1 & 2 for some time now, so i think i will do the stage 1 now & add the cams later.
Just have to find the cheapest way to get the kit over the border as UPS screws us in brokerage fees.
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Just finished on a set of the 2013 mufflers. Took the end caps off and left the heat shields on. I didn't want to cut anything but the plug. I wanted to leave the pipe coming from the baffle intact.
I used a Dremel Flexible Shaft (part #225-01) and a Dremel 4000. I used the keyless 1 1/2" metal cut off wheels. The first one took about 30 min. The second took about 20 min. I used 2 wheels and part of the third. I won't know how they sound until I get the bike back from storage. Hopefully, they will sound good. This was a great idea. Thanks for the post.
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I forgot to mention, the whole project cost about $50. $15 for the wheels with the keyless arbor and $33 for the flex attachment. Thanks again...
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Glad it worked for you and thanks for the detailed description of your work. Ain't it fun to do something for so little money and not a whole lot of effort that makes such a difference in the sound? :2vrolijk_21:
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With the change/modification of the muffler AND adding the free flowing header pipe, yep you will need some kind of reprogramming on the ECM.
Thx for the input, that's what i figured.
I have been reading up on fullsacs stage 1 & 2 for some time now, so i think i will do the stage 1 now & add the cams later.
Just have to find the cheapest way to get the kit over the border as UPS screws us in brokerage fees.
I ship to Canada often USPS International Priority does not charge brokerage fee.
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It is. I was hanging on the fence regarding the fullsac baffles but when I came across this post I figured that it was worth a try. Now I just wish that I had the bike so I could try them out. They're going on an '05 FLHTCSE2. I've got 4" V&H turn downs on her now, but the V&H heat shields are so tight on the headers that it has been rubbing the neck of the muffler on the right side. That's beginning to show signs of rust so I thought I'd change them out. I'm wondering about installing the CVO mufflers without their heat shields. I have dropped bags on the bike and I'm worried about the clearance. The V&H fit fine, but I'm not so sure about the heat shields on the new mufflers.
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'HAIRD' - I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
BLUE SHARK
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'HAIRD' - I sent you a PM.
Thanks,
BLUE SHARK
No problem....just responded to it. If you take your time with the first muffler, it will pay off on the second one and really makes for a great change in the sound of your SE. Good luck and PM me if you have any other questions.
Howard
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Had a question from a forum member on how deep to expect to cut the plug. As I have quite a few pictures on the subject, I didn't have anything that showed an actual measure....until now. Took a measurement from the end of the inner tube to the cut removing the plug. Looks to be right at a 3 inch depth. Hope this and the picture helps to answer some questions on this. Actually took two pics. One with the flashlight and one with the iPhone flash. I'll post both just in case.
First is with the flashlight.
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...and last with iPhone flash. Again, hope this helps to answer any questions.
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THANKS HAIRD!
That was my question, and I really appreciate the response and the photos that accompanied it.
For me anyway, it greatly clarified how to do it and removed the trepidation I was having to try and do so.
Will keep you informed . . . . .
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Keith, that dremel model was model 3000. Purchased it from the H Depot January last year. Hope that helps
Howard
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OK Howard,
Thanks alot - headed to Home Depot then...
Kieth
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I plan on doing my 2013 CVO Ultra when I get back from big bend next week. I will let you know how it goes and how it sounds. Thanks for the how to
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There have been a few comments on what may or may not be needed with this mod and if a tuner was required. As it's been noted, there isn't a need for any tuner or additional ECM modification with this plug removal. However, if you do other things (as in remove the catalyst material/change out the header, motor work or such), there is a need. I will suggest this. The factory sends these bikes out (CVO and non-CVO) very lean from the factory to meet EPA exhaust and sound levels. While removing the plug does not call for a need in any additional mods (which is why it's a good mod.....cheap and good results), it may be something you want to address just so the motor will run much better.
I say all that to note recently skunk ryder decided he wanted a bit more sound than the plug removal. We researched and he decided to go with a stock pipe with the catalyst removed. It REALLY opened it up sound wise but this required a tuner as it's a major mod. Staying with HD, he went with the SE race tuner. Yesterday, K'ville HD installed, tuned and dyno'ed the bike with results of 95 HP and 114 lb/ft of torque. The stock run prior to the SERT installation but with the catless header was 87 and 101 respectively. So, cost of the grinding wheels to remove the plug was $15. Cost of the header with cat removed, $150 and that included giving back the header that we removed from the skunk. Tuner and tune was $500. So, for $665 dollars, he got 8 more HP and 13 lb/ft of torque with a much more usable (flat) torque curve and it runs great. I would say that's a good return on a small investment. Am I going to do it? Probably not at this time but now I know the option for better HP, TQ along with not much additional investment is there if I do. Just thought I would share.....
UPDATE April 11: just read my post again. Don't know what I was thinking when I typed but the original post of 81 HP stock was wrong. That number was actually 87 HP stock. I've fixed the post above to reflect that....
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Hiard, as we have spoken in the past,this is good stuff. when I purchased my cvo it had already had the sert, & the cat removed. I don't however know what the dyno was (if they even did one). I would be curious as to the numbers. Keep up the great posts. love hearing all the responses to something so simple & easy, & cost effective.
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Hello all, just a newbie rubbing two cents together:
Did this mod on a 02 FLHTP, though I drilled it out with a 1" bit, took some time to fish out the pressed crimped section. She sounded like I cleared her throat; she could sing a little deeper, no whistle, though I could pick up what sounded like a metallic ping or clink every fire of the cylinders.
Now as of yesterday there is two 2013 FLHTP’s in the garage and I’m ready to remove those plugs and Dremel is the way to go, without a doubt! THANKS Haird!
I am fascinated, though, that two cylinders belching hot gas through 24 3/8” holes that are twelve each muffler is nothing but unhealthy for a V-Twin. I read up on sonic pulse, thermal pulse and exhaust gas velocity as well as the ECM mapping; TMI!!! And my current view is this stock setup can barley allow 300fpm for which I read is optimal velocity. I’m sure it does but it is hard to wrap the head around.
Though I can understand that going beyond removing more than the plug and cheap fuel may interfere with exhaust tuning and run the CAT cooler and it will load up and not burn off and heat up and then cause damage I have no experience to guess at may happen.
But, with no other tinkering and some premium octane GO GO juice, would keep the CAT cleaner and just the right amount of vocals from the twin sisters,,, LOL. This mod focus works for me because I have no interest in big HP for drag racing some rice burning crotch rocket on my Electra Glide. Just the HP one needs for evasive riding and sweet HD vocals.
With that said, any corrections or additions with the possible warranty voidance from doing this mod would be helpful.
I will post pics of the soon to be removed restrictions to clear HD vocals.
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Pic two:
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Cool moom! Thanks for sharing the pics and description on the post... :2vrolijk_21:
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Any updates on getting the plugs out of a set of 2013 pipes?
Just got my FLTRXSE and want just a little more rumble!!
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Any updates on getting the plugs out of a set of 2013 pipes?
Just got my FLTRXSE and want just a little more rumble!!
Nope. I am still working on getting one for experimental purposes but most everyone wants to sell me one instead of a "donation for science"... :2vrolijk_21: Can't blame them though. These things are expensive.
My plan was to grind the extention off back down the length that came on the 2012's and older SE mufflers. At that point, I would remove the plug as posted at the start of this thread. From what I can tell visually and from service bulletins, the extention of the muffler tube is the only difference in the 2013 SE touring pipes so removing the plug is a bit harder but not impossible. Again, if I do end up finding/purchasing one of these, I'll post pictures of the mod. Otherwise, feel free to do your own mod to add to this post.... ;D Quite a few others have and added a lot of information over and above my original description.
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I noticed that extension pipe. I have a friend who has the flex extension for the dremel. He says its not the easiest thing to use. So I might start there and see how that goes.. Will post the results. I'm going to take my time and try to think of maybe some other options..
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Hi there
I came across this thread while researching Fullsac cores and I could be wrong but are the mufflers that are shipped with the 2012 FLHXSE3 to Australia different to those fitted in the US?
I ask this because I thought your mod was a fantastic idea but on closer inspection there appears to be no plug in my mufflers. There is a tube extension that protrudes from the stock baffle to about half the end cap but shining a torch down the "guts" of the muffler there appears to be a shelf of some type on the upper part of the core in about 6" from where the end cap meets the muffler but no plug I can see.
Correct me if I'm wrong :)
Cheers
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Interesting Conmore. May be that the mufflers shipped overseas are different and from your description, it does sound like the innerds are. A picture would really help in this if you get a chance... ;D
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Interesting Conmore. May be that the mufflers shipped overseas are different and from your description, it does sound like the innerds are. A picture would really help in this if you get a chance... ;D
Hi there
No problem. I've got a muffler off with the end cap removed and there's definitely no plug I can see, but I'll take a shot and post back tomorrow.
Cheers
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Hi there
No problem. I've got a muffler off with the end cap removed and there's definitely no plug I can see, but I'll take a shot and post back tomorrow.
Cheers
Hi there
Best I could do, with a bit of back lighting, but no plug as far as I can see.
Cheers
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Hi there
Best I could do, with a bit of back lighting, but no plug as far as I can see.
Cheers
Yep, much different. Actually, it looks like the mufflers that used to have the catalyst in them before the MoCo moved it to the header pipe...mainly on non-CVO models up to '09. '10 and newer non cvo's had the cat in the header like the CVO's. Not saying this is the case with your mufflers, your picture just reminds me of what they looked like. If you do decide to modify these, let us know. Also, as a suggestion, give Steve with Fulsac a PM and see if he has a solution for maybe removing the entire baffle and replacing with their system. May be an option.... :nixweiss:
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Yep, much different. Actually, it looks like the mufflers that used to have the catalyst in them before the MoCo moved it to the header pipe...mainly on non-CVO models up to '09. '10 and newer non cvo's had the cat in the header like the CVO's. Not saying this is the case with your mufflers, your picture just reminds me of what they looked like. If you do decide to modify these, let us know. Also, as a suggestion, give Steve with Fulsac a PM and see if he has a solution for maybe removing the entire baffle and replacing with their system. May be an option.... :nixweiss:
Hi there
Yes, I've been in touch with Steve @ Fullsac and he's given me great advice and been very helpful. Because of the tyranny of distance, Arizona being half way round the world from Victoria in Australia I've opted to get a set of 1.75" and a set of 2.0" cores and that way I have both options rather than oh sh*t I should have got the ??
A little care and a die grinder with an extension (the baffle tube extends to about 3/4 of the end cap on my muffler so I need something longer to get past that length) so then I can grind the two welds holding the original baffle in place and I should be good to go.
Cheers :)
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I just modified my stock CVO exhaust as described. Only thing I did different was once I set the distance of the mandrel on the Dremel, I laid a towel down on the table and holding the Dremel still I rolled the muffler on the towel left and right. I literally had baffle cut off in less than 2 minutes per side and barely used up the cut-off wheel. Thanks for all the idea.
Here is a picture showing the clean cut.
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In this photo you can see the "red" arrow indicating the distance that I cut mine in order to clear the weld joint. You can also see the beginning of the cut.
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Another satisfied customer... :2vrolijk_21:
The pictures and different ideas on how to remove the baffles are greatly appreciated. How did it sound to you after the plug removal?
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I didn't start up the bike last night as I had the battery pulled "installing another charging pigtail". I will try to get a soundbite from my non-CVO 2012 Street Glide and post. Getting ready for "Rolling Thunder" this weekend.
HAIRD, thanks for this cheap modification idea.
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Not a problem and glad to help. Hope you like the sound. Enjoy the ride to Rolling Thunder and be careful out there.
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Rode my 2012 Street-glide to work this morning and WOW on the way the exhaust sounds at idle and under load. My wife riding her own bike thought I bought a new exhaust. At idle there is more of a low rumble until you start to accelerate. During cruising, you can barley tell of the decibel increase, but when you accelerate you can hear the exhaust being louder but a comfortable loudness. Still need to capture a sound file and post.
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So as of this time, is there still no way to do the muffler mod on a 2013?
I have a new CVO Ultra (Typhoon Maroon) and need more noise to make me happy, but spend all my money on the bike, so can't do pipes for quite awhile...
This seemingly simple mod would help for awhile anyways...
Can it be done to my 2013?
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I drilled mine out using 1 1/4 hole saw with a 10 inch extention that i got at Lowes.(total about $22 bucks) At idle it has a little more rumble than before. Havent had the chance to listen on the road yet (weather not cooperating)
The only other way i see it to get the core or plug out would be to cut the extention HD included on the 2013 models. I didnt want to do that right yet.
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I drilled mine out using 1 1/4 hole saw with a 10 inch extention that i got at Lowes.(total about $22 bucks) At idle it has a little more rumble than before. Havent had the chance to listen on the road yet (weather not cooperating)
The only other way i see it to get the core or plug out would be to cut the extention HD included on the 2013 models. I didnt want to do that right yet.
Mighty, what Atomic said is correct. You can remove the plug using the hole saw OR you can remove the extented portion that's unique to the 2013 SE touring mufflers back to the old length and then remove the plug using the dremel method. Either way, getting the plug out gets the results of removing the restrictive plug. I'm still working on my parts guy to get a 2013 muffler but, as you can tell, I'm having a bit of a problem getting one to experiment on. If you do go the extention removal route, please post some information and pictures to help the others in the same boat as you. Good luck.... :2vrolijk_21:
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Here's the ends of the plugs when drilled out. Have to remove mufflers.
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Here's the 1 1/4 hole saw and 10 arbor extension I got at Lowes.
When drilling you have to start out slow because its going to grab. I put a little oil on the bit before I started.
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Just cut the tack welds on the extensions to remove on the later mufflers, and they slip out. The rest is as posted previously. One down, one to go.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/11/9abave4y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/11/amyva5a3.jpg)
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VERY NICE! Had to be a way to get these extensions out an easy way....way to go, brother.... :2vrolijk_21:
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I rewelded the extensions on after a test ride. It sounds a whole bunch better than the ghetto cruiser/helicopter-ish sound that it had without them. Definitely messed up the tune.
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I rewelded the extensions on after a test ride. It sounds a whole bunch better than the ghetto cruiser/helicopter-ish sound that it had without them. Definitely messed up the tune.
Couple questions: Did you remove the plugs in both SE mufflers after you removed the extensions? Or, did you just remove the extensions without the plug? If just the extensions, you didn't do anything to effect the sound/exhaust flow, just taking off part of the exhaust tube. You state you messed up the tune...is that your ECM tuning? If so, this mod of removing the plug should have very little to no effect to include removing the extension.
Just wanting to make sure I understand what you are explaining.... :2vrolijk_21:
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Removed extensions to gain access, then removed plugs. Bike also has a catless head pipe, opening these up takes it beyond what the factory tune can adjust for. Already working on that so no worries.
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Gotcha...thanks for the clarifications.
Also, thanks to all who have viewed, commented and submitted their own methods here. This thread is 1 year old today...my first real submittal to ANY forum and it's still a'goin.....how 'bout that.....
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Haird it is a great submittle and you have saved folks a great deal of money.
After the drill method although it was loader, I just wanted a little more. After reading a bunch of reviews here I decided to do the Fulsac Stage I w/ 2 inch baffles. For 2 reasons. More sound, and help the bike run a little cooler.
Not sure yet about the heat, but i just love the sound and performance that I got.
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Thanks for all the replies and yep, the 12 CVO's SE mufflers are a bit different than say my old 2009 that had the cat in the muffler. I looked at all types of ways to fix that issue with the 2009 but as I was happy with the sound the stock system had, I let it go. I believe, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the '11 has these same muffer plugs. I'm not sure about the 2010 CVOs. Also, you are correct in that this change is not for everyone but it's a great option for folks that want a better rumble, stock system that doesn't turn the heads of the public safety officers as you pass them/they pass you on the highway or sitting at a traffic light.
Glens: I would agree that if your state/city/county tests both exhaust and sound levels, you may not pass the sound level exam. As this plug removal only opens the SE muffler and does not effect anything else in the system including the O2 sensors and catalyst, the exhaust content would be the same either with the plug in or out. If you note in the picture of the exhaust tube after picture, the SE muffler inner tube reduces a bit from the inlet to the exit (get's smaller). It's not a big difference but that along with the plug causes the gasses to pass through the packing material. Even without the plug, this slight diameter reduction still causes some of the exhaust to pass through the material...hence it still is muffled a bit at idle and highway speed. So you still may be able to pass the sound level checks depending on the testing criteria. Also, that stamp on the side of the muffler states EPA approved and unless you take the muffler off and look down the tube from the inlet, you can't see where the plug was removed. You could not say that about changing from the stock baffle to an aftermarket unit. You can still argue the point that it's a legal muffler which it actually is.
Lilcoot: The ECM should not see anything different as the rest of the system remains intact. The stock computer allows for single changes in the system (as stated many times by folks on this forum and three different dealers/mechanics I've talked with). As for back pressure and torque. The plug is there for noise restriction to cause the exhaust to pass through the packing. If you note the pictures, the plug has holes so even with it in place, there is some exhaust that goes through anyway. Removing the plug only allows for the noise level to increase. If you note the other posts with the pictures of the catalyst material, you could use a stove pipe as a muffler and not effect the back pressure as restrictive as that catalyst is. I've seen no decrease (seat of the pants) in power or acceleration and the fuel mileage is the same.
Again, very little was changed in this process that would cause any operational issues, just a bit more sweet sound from that CVO. :bananarock:
Haird---
My 2011 SESG had completely different baffle setup-------------My 2012 SERG has the one you posted
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Haird---
My 2011 SESG had completely different baffle setup-------------My 2012 SERG has the one you posted
That's interesting. I've seen both on the '11s and wonder if there was a change in the design at some point in the 2010/2011 model years. There's one 2010 SESG that I had the opportunity to modify that had the plug but, again, I've seen both designs. Maybe the MoCo were changing and were getting rid of the old style and replacing with the plug style as the old supply dwindled....never can tell what they might do. I thought at one point that maybe the owners had swapped the mufflers for some reason...nope, stock as came new from the dealer.....don't have any idea as I'm just speculating.
I do have an idea as to why the MoCo changed the design on the 2013 SE mufflers (with the extension). Bucknut Greg and I were discussing this last night...maybe they have been looking at our modifications and changed their design to make plug removal that much harder. Why else would the tack weld a 3" extension on that had no purpose what-so-ever.... :nixweiss:
Plus, we also solved the mystery of the lone gunman at the book depository and where Elvis really is.... :zroflmao:
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Be careful!!!!
They are watching everything you do and everything you say!!!!
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Today I drilled out the baffles on my 2013 Road King. I bought a Milwaukee 12 inch extension and 1 ¼ metal hole saw at Home Depot. It cost about $20. It was really easy to do, removed the end caps and heat shield on the first one and found it was unnecessary. It took longer to take the muffler off than to drill it out.
I'm not sure how much of a difference it made yet. I took a video before and after but only on it in the garage. Severe thunderstorms in the area today…
Here is a link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MI3FZO7MJs
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Very nice! Great video showing before/after. Thanks for the effort and the post. Hope you enjoy the mod.
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Big Trouble.....in the vid do you still have the stock head pipe or did you replace that?
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Big Trouble.....in the vid do you still have the stock head pipe or did you replace that?
It is the stock pipe. Haven't replaced that yet :)
Went for a ride this afternoon here are my initial thoughts- it sounds a little deeper and has a slower rumble at idle. You hear more of a difference when you get it on. I didn't notice a huge difference but it's better, especially for $20!
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It is the stock pipe. Haven't replaced that yet :)
Went for a ride this afternoon here are my initial thoughts- it sounds a little deeper and has a slower rumble at idle. You hear more of a difference when you get it on. I didn't notice a huge difference but it's better, especially for $20!
Been thinking of doing something also. But does it sound that much different. Any poping from air filter. Mine seems to sound just fine :nervous:
Ive done mods on every bike Ive ever owned and I cant digest that Im good with things as they are.
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Been thinking of doing something also. But does it sound that much different. Any poping from air filter. Mine seems to sound just fine :nervous:
Ive done mods on every bike Ive ever owned and I cant digest that Im good with things as they are.
I would call that lucky, no more to spend, no more to do, just ride, yeh that's lucky in my book :2vrolijk_21:
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I would call that lucky, no more to spend, no more to do, just ride, yeh that's lucky in my book :2vrolijk_21:
Your spot on Mate :2vrolijk_21:
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Been thinking of doing something also. But does it sound that much different. Any poping from air filter. Mine seems to sound just fine :nervous:
Ive done mods on every bike Ive ever owned and I cant digest that Im good with things as they are.
I just did it yesterday and went for a short ride today so I need some more riding time for a full review. I didn't have any popping. There is a difference but it isn't huge. It's not like changing the pipes. At some point I will probably do something different but since I haven't decided yet I'm happy with it.
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i also did this mod with the 1 1/4" hole saw and a 12" extension, i did notice a slight difference in tone but not much. since i felt adventurous i bought a 1 1/2 " and drilled the inner baffle out completely just like the guys were doing with the 2011 and 2012s. the 1 1/2 was the perfect size. now the inside of the pipe looks like after market. the weather has been bad so i don't have any ride time on it yet but i notice a big difference in sound now.
thanks for sharing this with us Haird and everyone else who contributed.
i believe I'm a happy camper with this mod and the fact that its going to save me a couple hundred bucks.
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Hi there
Yes, I've been in touch with Steve @ Fullsac and he's given me great advice and been very helpful. Because of the tyranny of distance, Arizona being half way round the world from Victoria in Australia I've opted to get a set of 1.75" and a set of 2.0" cores and that way I have both options rather than oh sh*t I should have got the ??
A little care and a die grinder with an extension (the baffle tube extends to about 3/4 of the end cap on my muffler so I need something longer to get past that length) so then I can grind the two welds holding the original baffle in place and I should be good to go.
Cheers :)
Conmore, did you prefer the 1.75 or 2.00" cores?
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Hi new here to the forum there is a lot of good info here. I have a 2013 cvo ultra and am interested in modifying my mufflers by removing the plug as you have described. I was wondering if the 1 1/4 or the 1 1/2 hole saw was the best option for doing this. Does the 1 1/2 leave the baffle with the packing in place? I have been following this post for a while hoping some new info would be posted. Thanks in advance.
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Hi new here to the forum there is a lot of good info here. I have a 2013 cvo ultra and am interested in modifying my mufflers by removing the plug as you have described. I was wondering if the 1 1/4 or the 1 1/2 hole saw was the best option for doing this. Does the 1 1/2 leave the baffle with the packing in place? I have been following this post for a while hoping some new info would be posted. Thanks in advance.
there is no packing behind this plug. the 1 1/4 will remove just the end of the plug where as the 1 1/2 will remove the whole plug.
i believe it is just a silencing plug.
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there is no packing behind this plug. the 1 1/4 will remove just the end of the plug where as the 1 1/2 will remove the whole plug.
i believe it is just a silencing plug.
Correct assumption...it's there to help route the exhaust gasses through the packing material. Either removing the end of the plug or the entire plug will work in opening up the SE mufflers and bringing them to life.
Howard
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The 1 1/4 just removes the tip and does a very neat job, my preference for a nice mellow sound, id try that first you can always go bigger if you so desire.
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From what you guys have seen ( heard) would the bike have a louder deeper tone with the head pipe changed to say v&h duels (eliminating cat) and leave stock mufflers or punch out the plug and leaving head pipe with cat alone. I want it a little louder more deeper than anything if that makes sense.
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From what you guys have seen ( heard) would the bike have a louder deeper tone with the head pipe changed to say v&h duels (eliminating cat) and leave stock mufflers or punch out the plug and leaving head pipe with cat alone. I want it a little louder more deeper than anything if that makes sense.
If you change the header, you will need a tuner whether you do any SE muffler mods/plug removal or not. If you just do the SE muffler plug removal and nothing else, no additional modifications needed. You will notice more sound on take-off and accelleration with the plugs removed and it is a deeper sound....hey, you are letting more exhaust flow and bypassing more of the muffler packing so will be louder. Nice thing is you still get a good sound at cruising speed without having being annoying. Of course, removing plug AND changing the header to either an aftermarket one or get a stock header with the catalyst material removed, you get more sound and a freer flowing exhaust but then you will have to spend a bit more for a tuner.....lots of decisions.... :2vrolijk_21:
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Just cut the tack welds on the extensions to remove on the later mufflers, and they slip out. The rest is as posted previously. One down, one to go.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/11/9abave4y.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/11/amyva5a3.jpg)
I did exactly this with my 2013's last night. Removed the extension, but to baffle out. But, before welding the extensions back in, I sanded the little rust off them, and cleaned them up. Then I took some cold bluing (get it at your local gun shop) and refinished them. Nice and black now. Just keep the weld location clear, son't blacken them. After welding I hit the welds with the cold bluing, and bingo, no way to tell then were ever touched.
Now, I did not notice an significant change in sound, but they sure will flow better. I am looking at maybe a set of SE Street Cannons as a replacement. Not sure yet.
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Great pics and explanation of how to remove that extention....appreciate the update and effort in posting. Removing the plug opens the muffler and does give you a bit more "bite" in the sound but nice and normal at cruising speeds.
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So what process on a 2014 pipe to get rid of the restrictions.
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So what process on a 2014 pipe to get rid of the restrictions.
Very good question....haven't had a good opportunity to see the muffler on the 2014 so don't know what/if any changes from the 2013 or earlier version of the SE. Next time I'm at the dealership (or somebody else feel free to comment/post pics), I'll have a good look and go from there.
Haird
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What pics u need. I can take some with my iphone and send me to ya later. I looked in there and there definatley is a plug in there. Looks to be deeper in there than earlier years.
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I'll be at one of the local dealers this weekend but not sure if SMHD has a '14 CVO Limited (pretty sure K'ville HD doesn't). If either does, however, I'll check it out. Meanwhile, if you want to take some pics of the end of the muffler showing what you are describing and post them here, that would be great.... :2vrolijk_21:
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I have a 2014 CVO RK but dont have access to a welder. I think I will either go with the 1 1/2" hole saw approach or maybe 2" Fullsac baffles...
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2014 CVO Road King exhaust has been modded.
I bought a Dremel and the flex extension. After about an hour of messing with it I bought a 12" drill extension and 1 1/2" metal hole saw. I should have done that right from the start. It removed the entire plug. Sounds great - the same tone just a little deeper and a little louder.
Just spend the $20 to get the extension and the 1 1/2' metal hole saw. Trust me, this works perfectly and takes about 10 minutes/side. Thanks all!
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Good deal :2vrolijk_21:
Glad the hole saw worked and glad you are pleased. It's always fun to do a mod that shows results without taking out a second mortgage!
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"Photos or it didn't happen" right? :bananarock:
2014 CVO RK
Before...
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/Digital1976/2D36EEAC-9F48-48C7-ABAE-230A0F7A77BF-9323-00000AFE532BDE40_zps201c73dc.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/Digital1976/media/2D36EEAC-9F48-48C7-ABAE-230A0F7A77BF-9323-00000AFE532BDE40_zps201c73dc.jpg.html)
Ahhh. And after...
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff505/Digital1976/87326924-A1F5-4E53-A6A9-BD619285C0FE-9323-00000AFE5B278C4C_zpsa8e01c07.jpg) (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/Digital1976/media/87326924-A1F5-4E53-A6A9-BD619285C0FE-9323-00000AFE5B278C4C_zpsa8e01c07.jpg.html)
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Did you do the plug removal with pipes on bike or removed.? Did the plug come out after you cut thru it with the hole saw. I'am thinking of doing this on my CVO Limited as well.
Guessing the RK has the same mufflers as the CVO Limited does.
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Did you do the plug removal with pipes on bike or removed.? Did the plug come out after you cut thru it with the hole saw. I'am thinking of doing this on my CVO Limited as well.
Guessing the RK has the same mufflers as the CVO Limited does.
Mufflers will need to come off so the plug can come out the inlet end even with the hole saw method. The SE mufflers on the '14 SERK should be the same as the SE mufflers on the '14 CVO Limited.
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Thats right. Take the mufflers off, drill them out (the entire plug comes out) and then put the mufflers back on. Done.
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Just drilled out the plugs from the mufflers.. Took longer to get them off the bike than drill out the plugs.. It was so painless....Thanx for sharing this info. Started the bike and it sounds lots better.. Deeper tone than before...
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I love it when a plan comes together....glad you are happy with it... :2vrolijk_21:
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This worked great on my 2013 CVO mufflers, bought the hole saw and extension (10") at Lowes for a little over $20. The only thing I would add is to drill them out while they are still on the bike, you don't have to worry about them spinning in your hands that way. As mentioned elsewhere took longer to take the pipes off and pull the baffles out after than the actual drilling of the baffles. Sounds great, deeper and louder mostly under acceleration. I was considering wild pigs or fulsacs, but I like the way they sound this way.
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Glad you are happy, Edgar. Nothing like an inexpensive fix you are happy with.... :2vrolijk_21:
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This worked great on my 2013 CVO mufflers, bought the hole saw and extension (10") at Lowes for a little over $20. The only thing I would add is to drill them out while they are still on the bike, you don't have to worry about them spinning in your hands that way. As mentioned elsewhere took longer to take the pipes off and pull the baffles out after than the actual drilling of the baffles. Sounds great, deeper and louder mostly under acceleration. I was considering wild pigs or fulsacs, but I like the way they sound this way.
I have the later style with the longer diffuser on the end so my Dremel did not have the reach. I did as Edgar did and bought the extension and used a hole saw. Less than a minute each side to drill the end out but took longer to remove the slip on and retrieve the piece.
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Good for you...you will really notice the sound difference but in a good way.... :2vrolijk_21:
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The international models aren't so easy te drill. Today i opened my 2014 CVO limited mufflers the Fulsac way. I used a piece of solid steel to tap uit the muffler. This is what came out.
I'm planning to drill some holes or to cut the tube
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Inside
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close up
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Quote from: Hdolfje on: Today at 08:26:12 AM »
"The international models aren't so easy te drill. Today i opened my 2014 CVO limited mufflers the Fulsac way. I used a piece of solid steel to tap uit the muffler. This is what came out.
I'm planning to drill some holes or to cut the tube"
Are these the ones that came off your 2015? They guts look like the older style OE SE muffler. Will be intersting to see how you like the results of your mods when these are back on the bike.
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Thuis are the ones from My 2014. It's not the domestic model but the HDI international one. Fuullsac isn't shipping to Europe planning to make a core from a V&H core. Dealer has a lot of non used cores
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Thuis are the ones from My 2014. It's not the domestic model but the HDI international one. Fuullsac isn't shipping to Europe planning to make a core from a V&H core. Dealer has a lot of non used cores
Done this a number of times, sounds great. A chop saw and a wire welder make the job simple
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Tagging this thread. Might use it for a starting point on the new bike.
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Thuis are the ones from My 2014. It's not the domestic model but the HDI international one. Fuullsac isn't shipping to Europe planning to make a core from a V&H core. Dealer has a lot of non used cores
Those are the same as the earlier CVO cores. Not much you can do that will make then sound good, I tried.
We ship to Europe all the time. Just an FYI.
Steve
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I know I am resurrecting a long dead topic but I have a question. I have a set of 2014 CVO mufflers on my 2000 bagger. Of course no cat. The bike runs good with these mufflers but it is very quiet. I love the way they look.
Did everyone that knocked the plugs out of the CVO mufflers leave the cat intact? I am looking for a small increase in volume and a deeper sound. I am willing to knock the plugs out but would I get that sound without a cat? How much does the cat affect the volume? Would the lack of a cat make it sound like a lawn tractor with a bad muffler? Is there any chance that anyone has a sound clip of their bike running unplugged CVOs preferably without a cat?
Thanks
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sound clip with cvo 2.0 cores, and fullsac sportpipe (no cat).
http://www.4shared.com/mp3/hy3XL1sI/fullsac.html
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Dang Dan, it has been a while on this one. If you read my original post, I actually did de-plug the mufflers with the cat still in tact and was very pleased with the results. Just a bit louder at idle and cruising speed but really sounded good getting on it. I did eventually go de-cat header with a SERT for a bit more power, better fuel flow and to lose the popping on deceleration that was very evident removing the catalyst. Sorry to say I don't have a sound bite to post for stock verses de-plugged.
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Haird, since you took the cat off later did removing the cat change the sound of the already unplugged mufflers?
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Yes sir, it did. Not bad, just deeper and a bit louder and I was satisfied with the cruising and idle db level. If you just de-plug and nothing else, it's not necessary to tune the bike. However, if you go further with the no-catalyst in the head pipe method, it is a necessity to tune.
Also, since you are new to the forum, please take a minute and introduce yourself to the rest of the gang in the "new member" board. Here's the link and welcome to the site:
http://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?board=30.0
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Well I wish I would have seen this prior to taking a hole saw and drilling out the "crimp" on the end of that baffle - I had to buy a hole saw and extension but I already had a Dremel!
Now the question of the day - would I see any benefit (additional sound) by going a head and removing the balance of the tube?
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Ive done it both ways, IMHO the drill is faster ,leaves a perfect hole the same size as the plug and sounds just as good
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New to this forum, Just dropped the hammer on a new 2016 SESG. First mod ordered was 14"x 1 1/2" sweeping beaters from BR bars(patiently wating) cant stand the stock bars !! So it will be a minute till I come up with scatch for a fullsac set up !! Come on work with some OT !! Attempted this mod earlier tonight but my dremel crapped out. So now I'm sitting here waitin for the sun to come up so I can buy a new one and get it done.
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Has anyone looked inside the 2017 Milwaukee 8 SE Mufflers yet? I wonder if this mod would work?
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Well here they are, now gotta remount them and take a sound check !!!
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Has anyone looked inside the 2017 Milwaukee 8 SE Mufflers yet? I wonder if this mod would work?
That's on my list of things to check next time I'm in the dealer.... :2vrolijk_21:
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We here they are, now gotta remount them and take a sound check !!!
You will like the sound and congratulations on joining the de-plugged SE muffler crew ;D
I've got to do this to my current ride at some point, too. Sure miss the sound from the '12.
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Will the drilling method work on the stock mufflers on the 16 CVO? I already went and bought the extension and 1 1/4 bit and thought I would double check the instructions before starting this project and after reading I am not certain if this will work on the 16 CVO mufflers?
Any help??
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Chief, if you look in the exit/butt end of the SE muffler and see the plug similar to what I show at the start of this thread, you have the same kind. My 2015 had the tube extention that I removed (it is tacked on in three places, you have to remove the end cap...dremil again) for looks and in preparation of removal on my plugs at some point down the line.
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So simple and I like the sound!
Got lucky on the second muffler, plug stuck in the end of the hole saw so didn't even have to remove the muffler!!
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Good deal. Glad you like it. Simple fix for a bit of sound.
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Great thread, and still very useful - 4 years old or not!
I've read every word, but did not find an answer to this question - for those of you who removed the plug, did any of you measure the perforated core inside? 1-1/2'? 1-3/4"?
I'm wondering if the cores changed in 2013 along with the 3" end pipe? It seems odd that the 2013 up cores sound so different (apparently in a bad way) with the end pipe removed, but the pre-2013 sounded great with no end pipe. The cores must be different?
Thanks.
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Great thread, and still very useful - 4 years old or not!
I've read every word, but did not find an answer to this question - for those of you who removed the plug, did any of you measure the perforated core inside? 1-1/2'? 1-3/4"?
I'm wondering if the cores changed in 2013 along with the 3" end pipe? It seems odd that the 2013 up cores sound so different (apparently in a bad way) with the end pipe removed, but the pre-2013 sounded great with no end pipe. The cores must be different?
Thanks.
I believe the cores were the same but the 3" extension was an attempt by the MoCo to make it more difficult to remove the plug. However, the 3" extension is only held on with three tack welds. A bit of grinding and it's gone. The plug on my 2015 mufflers is the same as the one that I removed from my '12. I have not removed the plugs yet on the 2015 but I did remove the 3" extensions as they were rusting and causing a bit of a mess on the inside and outside of the mufflers. They look much better, too (my opinion). I will eventually remove the plugs and have pondered on purchasing the Fulsac header along with the TTS Mastertune once the warranty runs out in July 2017.
As for measuring the plug, I've still got one I removed in the garage. I'll measure it this evening and get back witcha... ;D
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Thanks, Haird. I'm wondering what the diameter of the core is. If we're removing the plug with a 1-1/2" hole saw, we know the muffler is restricted to at least that, which would still lend a lot of value to the Fullsac 1-3/4", 2" and 2-1/4" cores - if one was so inclined. But if we can get a straight through path of at least 1-3/4, it would seem that (at least from a performance point of view) we've got the smaller baffle covered.
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The 17 CVO touring mufflers are straight though. You can stick a broom handle all the way though them. I would guess about 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 all the way through.
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Nexus, I couldn't find the plug to measure...sorry. I thought I kept one of the half dozen or so I had taken out of mine a couple other folks. I guess not.
Thanks for the info, Dave. I was wondering how the '17 muffler was different. I haven't really looked at them very close.
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No problem, and thank you for taking time to look for that. I actually bought a pair today from a 2014 - removed the tube and drilled out the plug.
So for those of you who are looking at this from a sound point of view, the following probably isn't going to matter much. But if you're reading this thread wondering about the performance aspect, or wondering if this is a good alternative to the Fullsacs, here's some useful data. Keep in mind, all I know is the 2014 muffler - others may be different.
The entrance to the muffler is, of course, the diameter of the outside of the exhaust pipe, about 1.7". About 2" back, the inner core necks down to 1-1/2", then opens up again to 1.7 and is a plain steel tube (no perforations) for about 6". The perforated tube starts after that, again 1.7" diameter, and the perforations are very small, I'm guessing about 1/16 - 3/64", lots of them.Once you get past the drilled out plug, the exhaust exits through the end tube, which has been crimped down to fit inside the end pipe, and THAT inner tube diameter (at the crimp) is 1-1/2" again.
I've done some motor mods to my bike (heads, cams, etc) so my goal (and from what I've read, this not an uncommon goal) is to find a muffler that will give me the most exhaust flow for the least noise. Drilling the plug out of these gave me a 1-1/2" core which is 1/3 solid and 2/3 tiny little holes; compared to the Fullsac, which is a smooth 1-3/4" interior, with lots of large holes the entire length to absorb noise, and a removable, repackable baffle that I can keep quiet. For $120, I think I'll go that way.
Your results may vary! :bananarock:
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Great thread and a lot of detailed information.
Has anyone run these 2012-2016 style mufflers with the crimped plug (removed) on a catless header? If so, how would you describe the sound and volume?
Has anyone compared the sound and volume of the drilled stock baffles to something like the Fullsac or Cycle Shack replacement baffles?
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Yes, I and others have. My 12 eventually received a stock header with the cat removed. Sounded very good but a bit louder without the cat in place. Not unbearable but louder. It had a very good cruising sound at 70.
I'll let other folks chime in on your second question as I have not compared.
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Working on mine today. Replaced the stock headpipe with a decatted one. Going to cut the plugs out of stock mufflers tomorrow. Clean and polish all the crap you cant get to then put her back together. Hook up the fp3 and wait for spring.
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Working on mine today. Replaced the stock headpipe with a decatted one. Going to cut the plugs out of stock mufflers tomorrow. Clean and polish all the crap you cant get to then put her back together. Hook up the fp3 and wait for spring.
Well, how did you like the results?
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Absolutely love it. Nice deep and quiet rumble at cruise speed, but barks when you jump on it. No decel popping. Really seemed to help lessen the leg heat. Have the fp3 on autotune with a canned base tune. Has all the get up and go i will ever need.
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Good deal... :2vrolijk_21:
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I turned a buddy onto these 4" CVO mufflers. He found a nice set on eBay already modified. Installed on an earlier Twin Cam engine with stock (catless) header these sound really really good.
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Very good.
I'm ready to perform this surgery again on my 15. I'll post more pictures and some measurements of the plug this time around and any other information y'all need. I'm sticking with the stock header for a bit longer.
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Surgery performed. Two mufflers, one dremel and two grinding wheels. I did notice one mufflers plug seemed to be welded in and crooked while the other was a normal plug. Still, no problem with either. Sounds much better even with the stock header.
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Picture of the abnormal plug before removal. Note the three spot welds outside the inlet. I had already removed the tack welded extension from both mufflers a month after purchase....they were rusting.
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This is what the abnormal plug looked like removed. You can see the detached end and tell something was off. I measured this for those that asked. The other muffler and plug looked like the ones at the first of this post removed from my 12 but I will post a picture for comparison after this one.
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What a normal plug removed should look like. Notice the ground end is much smoother.
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HAs anyone done this on the '14 or '15 CVO Deluxe? Now, I need to go home and look at my pipes...miss my '06 with a stage 1 and Cycle Shacks...It sounds like I am riding a sewing machine...
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Has anyone done this on the '14 or '15 CVO Deluxe? Now, I need to go home and look at my pipes...miss my '06 with a stage 1 and Cycle Shacks...It sounds like I am riding a sewing machine...
The Deluxe, and others correct me if I'm wrong...as if I have to ask that..., has the cats in the muffler and is a completely different set-up than the touring mufflers.
I'm sure you could modify the Deluxe mufflers but probably not using the method described in this thread... ;D
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Thanks Haird. That's what I was thinking...haven't found anything yet on someone who has done a mod on them. Two recommend the Rush slip-ons. I'm still early in my research.
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Haird:
A follow up to you as you mentioned you have done this on several. I have a 16 CVO Limited and I have the Screaming Eagle slip ons now. Have you heard the difference between the slip ones and the stock exhaust with the plugs removed? The slip ons are nice but I am looking for a deeper sound and curious if removing the plugs on the stock pipes would be a deeper sound then the slip ones. Thoughts?
Great series of posts too!
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It would depend on which Screamin eagle slip on you have but most are open down the middle ( you can see all the way through) which is what removing the plug accomplishes for less dough. I've heard the SE slipons before with the stock header and both the plug removed stock SE mufflers and the SE slipons sound similar. To me, the stock SE with plug removed has a bit better sound cruising down the highway (not as loud) but great, deep sound when you get on it. However, it may be too tame for others...different strokes for different folks.
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Hey, peeps, I know its 11:45 for this thread, but..... what I've done on every set of Stock and FULLSAC CVO baffles I've owned is cut off the portion of pipe that continues past the rear flange of the baffle. This makes a nice echo chamber out of your 4" endcap and gives it a "big boom" sound in MHO. YMMV, but worth a thought
Laters...and Merry Christmas everyone!
Bobby
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4.5 years later... Will this work on a 2022 CVO Street Glide? ;D
This is how it looks...