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[RoadRunnr]

Cool so it wouldn't hurt the bike to run it with no baffles or packing?

I can't tell you it will or wont, I ran mine for a few days with no baffles or packing, it seemed to run great, maybe even better than stock. but it was too lound for me, and I didn't want to take too much of a chance before I get a programmer.

[ultrarider123]

Great to hear some of y'all have tried this and as an update, I've done 5 more for friends since I started this post.  I was asked during one of these baffle removals (and some of y'all have mentioned it, too) about taking the entire baffle out (fiberglass and all).  I would not as I didnt' really want to tackle cutting the welds out of someone elses SE muffler until I tried it on my bike.  As I don't want to remove the packing on mine, I have not attempted.  I did, however, show this rider where HE could grind the welds.  I checked back with him a few days later and he was OK with what I had done...did not want "gut" the SE muffler.  I've had open mufflers in the past and while it's great at a rally or at a group get-together to see who has the loudest bike, it gets a bit "head-achey" after 100 miles on a 1500 mile trip 

After about 700 miles on my change, I can tell you that there is no reduction in power from stock on the 110.  My gas mileage on 100% gas has remained 45 plus in town/country road driving.  I haven't taken a long (300 plus) trip yet (coming soon).
I am not happy with the heat from the catalyst especially on these 100 plus days but I'm am happy with the sound and the cost of this modification.

[..Hawk]

Removed the plugs today.  Went for a 60 mile ride.  Seems my right leg was cooler than previously, could just be my imagination.  The bike sounds better and I haven't noticed any difference in performance.  Good interim step prior to going the Fullsac route.

[ultrarider123]

Folks, I have had a couple questions concerning the plug and what I was removing.  If you look into the rear/exit end of the 2012 CVO dresser mufflers (and 2011 and a couple of 2010 models as discussed in previous threads on this post) you will note it looks like the picture below.  As you can see the muffler plug looks like someone took a metal tube and squeezed it on four sides (crimpted it, actually).

[ultrarider123]

As you can see from the above picture, it's the one I used at the first of this post showing the muffler prior to removal.  This picture and the two following are of the plug removed.  The pictures in the removal portion of this post were not clear enough for some to show the internals of the muffler after removal of the plug...I appologize for that.  I did one last night and after the re-installation of the muffler, I took better pictures to show what was ground out and what remains/how it looks.  Here's the first one:

[ultrarider123]

All of these three views are from the rear/exit end of the muffler.  I did not attempt to take the pictures while the muffler was removed last evening as there was no good way I could shoot down the exhaust from the inlet side to show the same thing.  Here's picture two:

[ultrarider123]

...and the last one.  If you go back to the first two pictures at the beginning of this post, you will note the plug that was removed.  As you can see from these last three pictures, there is a small "lip" that the plug sits on.  The installation process (and please forgive me here to all the welders in the group...you know this) is that they install the plug from the inlet side, the plug "sits" on the "lip" and a charge is run through to tack/spot weld the plug in place.  As discussed on this post, some of the OEM mufflers from the late 80s/most of the 90s had a quarter size plate tack welded (usually two, sometimes just on tack weld).  This was easier to access as it was on the inlet side of the exhaust.  Removal was a bit easier.  This plug is in a place where you cannot knock it out but where there's a will........
Hope these extra pictures help.

[Bowman1836]

I did this today and well must say it took me alot longer than you about 3 hours and about 5 disks for the dremel tool. But it was worth it. It sounds great not to loud at idle and when you give it throttle it sounds great it is a happy medium IMO saved me about 400 bucks also. I'm fine just like this for me there is no need to upgrade exhaust. Thanks for the DYI. Happy riddin

[ultrarider123]

Glad it went well but sorry it took a bit longer but sounds (pardon the pun) like it went well and you are pleased.  It sure beats spending a bunch of money right off the bat.  As I've told the folks I've done this for, if you are still not happy, you can THEN go spend those dollars.  So far, nobody that had this procedure followed-up with more money.

[Bowman1836]

Glad it went well but sorry it took a bit longer but sounds (pardon the pun) like it went well and you are pleased.  It sure beats spending a bunch of money right off the bat.  As I've told the folks I've done this for, if you are still not happy, you can THEN go spend those dollars.  So far, nobody that had this procedure followed-up with more money.

Really no need to unless replacing full exhaust system.

[NH Bulldog]

Thanks for the great idea!  After reading the entire post, I started digging through my tool chest and realized that I had everything I needed to do the job.  The first pipe was a learning experience....took 3 reinforced cutting wheels, a wooden dowel, hammer, and lot's of swearing and sweating before it finally came out.  Once it was out, I was able to see the error of my ways.  Second pipe took less than 2 minutes and about 1/4 of a cutting wheel, with no sweat, no swearing and no need to use the heavy artillery. 

The difference between the two?  Simply how far into the tube you choose to make your cut.  If you look closely, you can see a slight ridge around the inside of the tube.  This is the weld bead from the assembly.  The trick is to make your cut 1/4" beyond that weld.  Set the mandrel of the cutting wheel, and then make a quick test "scratch" inside the tube to see where you are at for depth, then adjust the mandrel in the chuck of the Dremel tool until your cut will taking place 1/4" or or so past the weld marks. 

Sound is really good after the mod.  Throaty growl at idle with a lot of bark when you ask for it.  But at cruising speeds, only a barely noticeable difference in sound, which passed the wife test with flying colors.  I only have 45 miles on it since I just did it last night, but we are doing a couple of long rides with my fellow Red Knights this weekend and I will see how it does with a tank or two of fuel to check the mileage (consistant 42 mpg running 93 octane with 10% ethanol).     

[Bowman1836]

Thanks for the great idea!  After reading the entire post, I started digging through my tool chest and realized that I had everything I needed to do the job.  The first pipe was a learning experience....took 3 reinforced cutting wheels, a wooden dowel, hammer, and lot's of swearing and sweating before it finally came out.  Once it was out, I was able to see the error of my ways.  Second pipe took less than 2 minutes and about 1/4 of a cutting wheel, with no sweat, no swearing and no need to use the heavy artillery. 

The difference between the two?  Simply how far into the tube you choose to make your cut.  If you look closely, you can see a slight ridge around the inside of the tube.  This is the weld bead from the assembly.  The trick is to make your cut 1/4" beyond that weld.  Set the mandrel of the cutting wheel, and then make a quick test "scratch" inside the tube to see where you are at for depth, then adjust the mandrel in the chuck of the Dremel tool until your cut will taking place 1/4" or or so past the weld marks. 

Sound is really good after the mod.  Throaty growl at idle with a lot of bark when you ask for it.  But at cruising speeds, only a barely noticeable difference in sound, which passed the wife test with flying colors.  I only have 45 miles on it since I just did it last night, but we are doing a couple of long rides with my fellow Red Knights this weekend and I will see how it does with a tank or two of fuel to check the mileage (consistant 42 mpg running 93 octane with 10% ethanol).     

Lol you did better than me. Both were a pain and I did the same thing went right after the weld line but my dremel was an old shorty so it was a pain to keep it steady. But anyways the sound is great now.

[ultrarider123]

I love it when a plan comes together!  It's funny how some of the less expensive things actually work the best.  Bulldog, you will really enjoy the quiet when you want it and the bark when you need it.  I think you put the nail on the head as I was attempting to explain in a couple of posts that when you do this for the first time, you want to make a scratch with the dremel first to make sure you are cutting in the correct place.  Glad everything worked out for you, bowman and all the others that have gone this route.  You will find this is really all you need to do.  Let me know how the ride went for you this weekend.  If it's like most of mine, everybody wants to know how you got the sound out of the stock mufflers!  Ride safe out there.

[NH Bulldog]

1000 Mile Update:

Ok, with 1,000 miles behind us, we can safely give this very easy modification 2 thumbs up.  Many people, both friends and strangers, have commented on how the bike sounds.  Some have asked what pipes I was running.  I just tell them they are factory CVO pipes, which of course they are.  Fuel mileage has been steady at 40-42 mpg running Mobil 93 octane with 10% ethanol.  Right side heat might be a little more pronounced than it was, but it is hard to say for sure since we have been doing a lot of charity bike events and are riding at slower speeds in larger groups.  Nice deep rumble at idle, barks when you kick it in the ass and sounds refined at cruising speeds.  We have been using the half-helmets and have no issues talking to each other without shouting, and can hear the stereo just fine.  This was a very simple, quick (and CHEAP) modification.  Over the winter we will do the Fullsac Stage 1 conversion to do it right, but for now this is a great starting point.     

[ultrarider123]

I am assuming that the MOCO has not changed anything on the new 2013 SE mufflers coming stock on the SERK, SERG and SEUC?  I haven't had a chance to see the new ones (have one at SMHD but haven't gotten over there yet).  Had a chance to visit Montgomery (AL) HD but only one 2013 on the showroom and no CVO's.  Any word on the new design from an observer out in the CVO world or from me (if I get to see one soon..) can be posted here.  I would appreciate any feedback folks as if there IS a change, I need to start figuring out how to modify...