Running for any length of time at higher rpm's may in fact play a part in the sumping issue, but that doesn't mean people should blame those who ride at 4000 rpm versus chugging along at 2200 like many Harley riders tend to do.  The problem is fairly basic, there is more oil being pumped into the engine than is being returned to the oil pan, until the dry sump is overloaded with oil.  The oil pumps are constant displacement units, so the faster you spin them the more oil they pump.  Think about it.  At 4000 rpm for instance, in theory the pump can pump twice as much oil as it can at 2000 rpm.  If the return side of the system has a bottleneck that limits the amount of oil that can be sent back to the pan, and that bottleneck translates to only allowing enough flow to balance the supply side at 3000 rpm or less as an example, the guys running higher rpms for longer periods of time would be more likely to experience the problem.  A properly designed and manufactured system should be able to handle maximum rpms for extended periods of time with no backup of oil in the system.  If that wasn't the case, you wouldn't see dry sump engines in so many race cars.  I think I remember suggesting way back at the beginning of this saga that the aces at H-D might want to consult with the folks from Porsche if they couldn't quickly figure out this sumping issue.  Porsche doesn't have sumping problems running at more than double the rpms of Harley's engines.  And Porsche designed the most trouble free engine Harley has ever produced, the Revolution, proving it can be done but obviously not by the folks working at Harley.  Proving once again top quality engineering is much more important than just hanging your hat on styling for the past thirty years. 

JMHO - Jerry   

Spot on analysis!

Running for any length of time at higher rpm's may in fact play a part in the sumping issue, but that doesn't mean people should blame those who ride at 4000 rpm versus chugging along at 2200 like many Harley riders tend to do.  The problem is fairly basic, there is more oil being pumped into the engine than is being returned to the oil pan, until the dry sump is overloaded with oil.  The oil pumps are constant displacement units, so the faster you spin them the more oil they pump.  Think about it.  At 4000 rpm for instance, in theory the pump can pump twice as much oil as it can at 2000 rpm.  If the return side of the system has a bottleneck that limits the amount of oil that can be sent back to the pan, and that bottleneck translates to only allowing enough flow to balance the supply side at 3000 rpm or less as an example, the guys running higher rpms for longer periods of time would be more likely to experience the problem.  A properly designed and manufactured system should be able to handle maximum rpms for extended periods of time with no backup of oil in the system.  If that wasn't the case, you wouldn't see dry sump engines in so many race cars.  I think I remember suggesting way back at the beginning of this saga that the aces at H-D might want to consult with the folks from Porsche if they couldn't quickly figure out this sumping issue.  Porsche doesn't have sumping problems running at more than double the rpms of Harley's engines.  And Porsche designed the most trouble free engine Harley has ever produced, the Revolution, proving it can be done but obviously not by the folks working at Harley.  Proving once again top quality engineering is much more important than just hanging your hat on styling for the past thirty years. 

JMHO - Jerry   

I don't have the answer for you, but I do have a question.  Did this bag always have a lock problem, or did this problem only show up after the dealership changed out the bag?  I assume from your original post it started after they transferred all the parts from the old bag to the new bag.  If that's the case, I think you already know where the problem came from.

With the lid open while you watch the locking mechanism, press the lock button and see if the lock operates correctly.  Then close the lid and see what happens.  Any misalignment that causes the mechanism to bind can cause what you described.  The reason it would go ahead and lock on the second attempt would have to do with the amount of power needed to engage all of the locks at once, versus the smaller amount of power required to just operate one lock.  First make certain there is no binding, then make certain the electrical connections are pristine with no voltage drop across any connection.

Just a guess, hope it helps.

Jerry

I'm looking to go this way as well... [or Fullsac] 

But I've got just a K&N in the ventilator where a paper once was. I don't know what it wasn't a K&N from HD.

I just want to do a little more than 6200 km before I say I got a "good one" without sumping or carryover...

H

I went from a 2012 cvo street glide to a 2018 cvo roadglide in the black earth! Absolutely love it the ride is incredible! Best purchase I made very happy with it!  Good luck you won’t be sorry if you pull the trigger!


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They work in the dry air.  I've been using one for years before Harley came out with theirs......   https://www.cvoharley.com/smf/index.php?topic=108512.msg1391662#msg1391662

I've also filled the pockets with ice from the ice barrel that gas stations in those really hot areas have their drinks in, after I've soaked the vest in the bathroom sink.

Other brands are the same thing but much cheaper than the HD brand.....   https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=cool+vest&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=241655376434&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3538439503198321467&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1025846&hvtargid=kwd-2007787301&ref=pd_sl_96wcoeqs6m_e

You also want to wear a lightweght performance shirt (some where it over the vest).  The shirt that I have on in the photo has a large, mesh vent that starts at the wrist and runs up under the arms to the arm pits to provide flow through ventilation when your hands are on the bars while still protecting you from sunburn.

I know it’s all subjective and all that but here goes .......

Been looking at changing my 14 SERK for an 18 Road Glide in Black Earth and Vivid Black. Apart from the obvious engine and infotainment upgrade will it give me substantial improvements in handling suspension etc? Never ridden a Road Glide and it’s going to cost me a lot to change so I need some reassurance from those I trust.

There’s not many about in the UK in fact I think that this is the last one.


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King Glide has the best idea. We tried the vests years ago in south florida and they just don't work very well with 90% humidity. I have done the bag of ice trick but used a regular sore muscle type bag that has a screw-on cap that you buy at drug store and they work very well and can be filled from soda machine at 7-11 etc. Once had to pay 79 cents but most times store just lets me fill it.

Remus sells there quad exit mufflers as slip ons only. Pretty sure those are the same mufflers you get when you go with the full non cat system. From that I have to assume their non cat headpipes are a direct replacement that will accept stock mufflers too.I have no plans of removing or even testing a non cat headpipe on mine as I have no means of tuning the ECM. The first back to back dyno test I did was to simply remove the stock mufflers. To my surprise it made zero difference in power and AFR. Of course sound levels went way up. Good news is the bike has so much power stock making more is not really needed for Touring duty. So slip ons only will provide better sound and looks for those who aren't attracted to the stock monster mufflers. Kinda like a Harley but power increase will be very close to zero. I do have a luggage rack already mocked up that will accept a passenger back rest. I am playing with footpegs and relocated running boards on mine but unsure if any of that will see production. I seem to be the only one really unhappy with the floor board arrangement?

Steve@fullsac.com

Pretty sure anytime I looked at alternative headers for BMW from Remus (or Akrapovic or Laser or other) they were compatible with the stock mufflers. Makes sense when there are limited options to change the exhaust routing due to bags etc.

There was a distributor for Remus in the USA that would also provide a booster plug if you wanted decat headers - the booster plug is a simple "resistor fiddle" on the air temp sensor on the airbox to chuck in a little more fuel. I got one for a 2010 R1200GSA that had an occasional stumble and stall at low speed where the bike was running so lean at factory settings - the booster plug fixed that problem and the bike was a little smoother with no noticeable impact on economy.   

Booster Plug:  https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/bmw-28s1.html
Accelerator Module:  http://www.sol2.be/Performance/ENG/Order/page_BMW.html

http://www.ciriususa.com/product/harley-engine-guard-lights/

They look cool......anyone with experience?




Damn....just looked at The Wife's and my bikes....the positioning of our hi-way peg mounts does NOT leave 3.75" of straight bar to mount these.